Great video. You show the current wires to tie together but say the wrong thing. It’s actually green to gray and blue to orange. Other than that, couldn’t have done it without your help. Thanks
a quick note: If all your power locks stop working or when you switch from park to drive and your doors don't lock automatically or when all your doors unlock but locking them doesn't work or vice-versa then most likely it's the power relay, which is right below the door lock fuse. It's not labeled on the cover G8V-RH-1C7T-R-DC12 - Power Relay mine was corroded so replacing them fixed it. Hope this helps
In my 2006 impala, I can lock all doors but when unlocking only the driver door works so I have to unlock the others manually. Do you think I need to replace the relay?
Great thanks for the video; I was torn whether to use your method of putting the solenoid inside the door skin or outside (in the recess in sheet metal nearer to the lock knob). I did it your way and it worked out well. It went pretty well, but I had a couple notes of my own: -There's lots of room to work inside the door panel. My car is a VW, which is TIGHT (my locks still don't work and probably never will, can't fit solenoid inside door) but the Impala right rear door on my sister's car is very easy to work on (once you get the door panel off) -Wasn't sure how to mark the drill holes; wanted to avoid the recessed panel and put it where you put yours, but there is a door panel mount just under where the solenoid mounts I wanted to avoid. I measured the solenoid body (height) to get it positioned above it and measured the hole-to-hole spacing and orientation and just winged it from there...fortunately turned out OK, drilled the holes in good spot. - A little confused about the colors of the wiring in the door, the green didn't really look too green nor did the yellow look yellow, but someone indicated the wires in the bundle of a thicker gage were the proper ones, there were 2 of those, so I just picked the "greenest looking" and "yellowest looking" wires and worked OK. I didn't cut wire to the existing solenoid; the lock always worked fine, it was just the unlock that needed help. Don't know if the current demand of having both stock and add on solenoid might exceed spec, but it seems to work OK. I used an "add on" splice connector and just put the stripped end of the wire from the solenoid (stripped off the connectors, didn't use them. - Not sure I'm alone, but the darned ball/socket cable to the inside door release had me faked out...somehow I figured out how to remove it but I think I have the wrong concept on how the "plastic stop" for the cable is removed and reinserted. I though it went through the slot in the plastic facing me, but now I think that's just for the wire, the actual remove/insert is from the "back side" (i.e. away from the ball/socket). That was the biggest time waste for me, both taking it apart and putting it back....I think I totally didn't get how the cable stop released from the housing once you squeezed the wings...likewise how it was re-inserted. Still, only took me a couple hours to do a door (only one door has symptoms). I thought it would be a pain working inside the door but it was very easy access...lots of room to work. Thanks again for the pointers...probably a big reason it only took me a couple hours, I'm happy, since I did it in the winter, it died in the summer and we just lived with it for about 6 months, but now that it is cool in the garage I like doing projects like this that are no fun in the summer (I live in the sunbelt).
I bought an '06 SS in 2009 and had the car for 10 years with no issues with door lock actuators, thankfully. Recently bought an '08 SS and in the first week I had it, one of the door lock actuators pooped itself.
I know I am 4 years late but I was wondering if you give an update on how they have held up, I saw some reviews on amazon saying the actuators don't last that long and I waned to know what your experience was.
Were all of them blown? All of mine don’t work so I was figuring it was not each one broken, it would be something else. How can you test to see if they are bad. If all are bad, this is a great video. Thank you!
I have the weirdest issue. If I unlock the door manually the fob works again. If I sit in the car and lock it sitting in there and wait the fob will stop working and the door unlock may or my not from the switch on the door. Once I unlock it manually again it will all work again. Or when the car is on it seams to work. It's when I leave it alone locked for more then ainute or two it will stop working again.
You should have attached, behind the door sheetmetal. You are interfering with the door panel, the way you have it. You only have to grab about an inch of the door lock rod.
no, i did the same thing i showed here on the other side, with the exception of the driver door, that side i pulled an old actuator off a impala at the junk yard and installed it. The thing with pulling them off of a junk yard car, is that you dont know if they are good or not because the cars are not functional. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CZBQCR2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@Sleeper_Banshee so its safe to use the door locks u ordered from amazon for the driver and passenger side instead of taking a risk going to the junk yard
Depends on how much your time is worth. Most places you have to manually take your tools into the junk yard and wrench on the door yourself to remove the door lock actuators then there is a good chance that they are already bad. So for the price of these I thought it was worth it. This is a cheap ALTERNATIVE to buying OEM (900+ $ for all four)
Sorry read your original comment wrong. Yes these locks work with all the doors, you just have to position them correctly. Think it comes In a set of 2 so you have to order two? Idk look on amazon. You will see though when you get them, they are universal.
@@PetrucciIsKing these were not oem correct. Oem was 200+ to replace, not sure why everyone is saying oem replacements are 25 bucks, they definitely are not. These were a cheap alternative.
if you bought the actuators in the video i made there should be a green and a blue on the actuators you are installing. On the wire harness on the car I think there is a green, so green goes to green, and the blue goes to the orange looking one i believe. i cant remember exactly.
Its different from the passenger doors to the driver doors the driver doors have two greens and two yellows....can u make a video doing the driver doors
