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I'd be sure to replace the timing chain, remaining guids and the oil pump. Just some simple insurance for the future. Very clean job, and great video. Can't wait for the next video!
they put this same engine in the buick rainier. The manifold bolts were the hardest part of this. very bad angle, no room and two were already broken off before I started. These videos in full size trucks make the job look so much easier, lol
Dam im have that problem right now father got me the engine I needed for my truck an when I got home I noticed bolts broken in the exhaust manifold in the heads on both side at thr fat end by the wall I was like WTF POPS now I got to take them a shop to removed the bolts an got the heads worthless now
I know this is already 4 years old, but I wanted to tell you and everyone else what sets this video apart. In most cases, you let us get a good look at the fasteners once they're removed. Some of us have had our engines apart for a couple of years, and need a little refresher course on which bolts go where. Thanks.
Looks like a lot of work I’m not sure I have time do to this with my 07 6.0, I was quoted with a lifter 7 failure 7200 worst case scenario once he gets all the way in. Now I’m driving a 2021🥶
excellent work and views now I see whats ahead of me on 2008 #4 is stuck and stays sticking so this guy here wants to replace one lifter might as well do one side. now that I see whats up hes already there Guess if they are ok no need but double work does not appeal to me. replace the ones that tend to collapse with other type to delete from happening now to find performance box to undo 4 and make 8 constantly..
Thia video is great the only thing that would make it better would be if you told us what size the bolts youre taking off ended up being saves us from having to spend more time looking for the right socket or grabbing the wrong one and stripping a bolt cause you used one that fits but was not quite the right size
If its your first time, it might look intimidating tearing into your engine like this, but 2nd time around you'll be a pro. These engines are easy to work on.
@@GTsPerformance I got an 05 PPV tahoe with the famous 5.3 " lifter tick ". Seeing this video made me feel more confident in doing the job on my own now.
You would think that a ppv tahoe wouldn't have that 4 cylinder mode bs on it, I have a civilian 2014 tahoe with a 5.3 in it but the first thing I did to it after the dual exhaust was get a programmer and removed the active fuel management, my wife hated when it would shut 4 holes and run like a honda!!!!......you'd be surprised the difference a tune and exhaust makes on one of these pigs......thing was a turd when we drove it off the lot in 2013 brand new, 7 yrs later with 45k mi it runs better than any other ls tahoe around here. .......moral of the story is.......delete or tune out the displacement on demand, it's booboo.......I used a handheld hypertech tuner to get rid of mine for warranty purposes only, if it was out of warranty and we didn't live in gay ass comiefornia I definitely would have deleted it at the cam and went bigger while I was in there..........and the 3 arm puller your using for the harmonic balancer is the best one to use on these engines hands down......I have the very same one works like a charm!!!
Yea, it's in my "ppv Tahoe " playlist ru-vid.com/group/PLDBTR9jvD3R2BZpZ68CPVV97AjBeZrObg After part 2 is installing valves and springs on the heads, then next is the first start and tuning..
Great video, I think I'll do this myself instead of taking it in, all thanks to this video! To do the DOD delete, is a new cam required, or can you just replace the lifters and call it good? Also, are the oil valley plugs required? If there's no oil passage in standard lifters, it seems like the oil will be blocked anyway...unless it will cause excessive pressure? Lastly, does the computer shut off fuel flow when it goes from a V8 to V4? If so, it seems like a DOD delete may need some software modifications too. Maybe avoiding the delete and just replacing the stock lifters is the best option for someone like me not trying to get fancy with it. Thanks in advance for the help.
I was going to do a delete but instead im currently just doing a top end rebuild and timing chain. You do need software and the dealer wont do it. Also a new cam is required when doing a delete. It really isnt necessary if you look at how many miles you get out of afm lifters.
It comes out around the same to do the delete with aftermarket cam, or go with original afm lifters and expect them to fail again at another 180k. You definitely don't need a dealer! If your lifters ain't broke yet.. someone with a computer and a tuning software can disable afm. It's not actually tuning your truck,.. more of a toggle on/off switch. I think its $80 and it'll save your afm lifters.
Do you know why cylinder #6 look like this? Was there any oil going inside the cylinder? I have caprice ppv 6.0 and cylinder #6 misfiring with white smoke from the exhaust and oily spark plug I did a compression test and all cylinders above 150 Psi, there is no lifters knocking sound and by using mini camera cylinder #6 in my car looks exactly like the one in your engine. Could it be bad lifter? Even if there is no knocking sound?
I hope someone can help me with my question, but I want to remove the heads on my 6.0 and from what I hear, I have to make sure that cylinder one is all the way up to start removing rocker arms and heads. Is this true? I want to remove heads on my car so I I can swap out the lifter by myself.
So are you implying that you can simply delete the dod lifters and just use standard lifters? If so I’m totally doing that. Save myself the worry of the collapsable lifters failing again.
Is it possible to replace just one side? Because my stuck lifter was in cylinder 1 (driver side). I'm wondering why the manifold wont drop low enough to get the head bolts behind it. I know you replaced both sides but can this be done on just one side? And if so, how do I drop it low enough to get to the head bolts without damaging it?
Remove the head bolts under the manifold, then the manifold bolts. The reason the manifolds isn't going down lower is because the driver and passenger are connected as a Y. If you can't get the space, try removing the bolts on the passenger side manifold so the whole exhaust can lower all together. And yes, it is possible to replace only the broken lifter. After everything is all put together, I recommend having someone with a tuning software Disable the DOD system so your lifters only function as regular lifters, and not go into 4 cyl. mode.. since that is when they fail.
@@GTsPerformance Ok. And should I use a jack or a support of some sort underneath the manifold to to prevent it from dropping to the ground? I'd assume doing this would make it easier to lift back in place.
Very informative video looking to trouble shoot a ticking when I press the accelerator not so audible when on lower speeds have a p219a code dealer said it was the injectors any thoughts
@@20tea it was the injectors I changed all 8 but I was driving around with a p0300 for about a year and mess up the catalytic . I cleaned all 4 sensors and still p0420
The converter in bank 1, driver side cat, may be partially plugged. May have loose material in there that on occasion that may prevent proper flow. You should either get a new cat or just run without them. May notice hesitation at higher speeds.
@@20tea I took it for a hard run just now for a good hour . Getting the rpms up high. And when i came back to go home the check engine was gone let’s see for how long . This literally just happened tonight . Last time I had the p0420,p0300 p050 p0219 code I took the truck for a long drive did 75 aggressive driving and the 420,219 was gone
Would a 5.3 v8 vortec in a 2005 Chevrolet Silverado crew cab short bed 1500 LS that have the calash hydraulic roller lifters or just All regular lifters
The 05 didn't come with the collapsible lifters, so you'll have all regular hydraulic roller lifters. GM started adding the "displacement on demand" (DOD) lifters on the 07+ engines
@travisssss28 it helps! Since I'm removing the heads and the camshaft.. that leaves the crank free to rotate, so technically, it doesn't matter. But, the harmonic balancer doesn't have a woodruff key, so it makes it difficult to rotate 🤷🏻♂️ still doable
So how hard or dangerous to screw something up is a lifter swap for someone not really a mechanic. Cylinder 7 is misfiring on mine and my ass is too broke to pay someone else. Have the tools and the will just not the knowledge.
You may get by, but the lifters may eat into the cam lobes. If you already installed it and it's good, you may be fine. If you still notice issues, then you may also want a new cam.
Great video. Did you change parts for any good reason? I've done this job on Asian cars and it seems like trucks are way easier. I'm curious if you could've done the head gasket job and stopped, right? I think you did extra stuff to upgrade things, right? Man this looks less stressful than a small prius engine where you have to remove everything
I didn't take the manifold out. The key is just to loosen both sides after you removed the head bolts FIRST! First things to remove are the coil packs, plugs & wires, valve covers, rocker trunion guide & pushrods, then the head bolts. (If you loosen both manifolds first, they will hang and wont give you clearance to to bottom head bolts)
