chinese boot patcher fettling and finishing 

Fantastic isn't it, hideously charming or something

@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 might have to get me one.... not sure what I'll do with it but hay

Ha, excellent news I can't imagine being without.

Well I'm glad you enjoyed the videos even if they are not too useful, it's very interesting to hear about the differences on these machines. Good luck with the motor installation!

As far as I can tell, it's a copy of a 19th century British machine made in Oldham by a company called Bradbury's.

It was really fun working through this one.

Thanks for the comment, I enjoyed reading it, alas I've not had the pleasure of getting aquatinted with John Browning's work other than videos on RU-vid, and I find it a bit difficult learning about things that Im not holding in my mits! I hope retirement doesn't keep you too busy to enjoy nuts and bolts!

@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 It was said that John Browning while sitting in a cafe' and ordered, would sit there with his hands in the air, moving them back & forth, moving his finger up or down, left or right, using his mind to visualize the movement of a mechanical device he was thinking of. Amazing to think of! Saw a movie or Nat-Geo show. Anyways, I am proud of how you files, smoothed, machined basically putting the time in to make it yours and better. Even the paint. Now, with that said, I noticed the extra lever you added for lifting the pressor foot off the end. I am working on three different designs to accurately adjust the "Stitch Length" at the spring load stop bolt. I draw designs on printer paper and thought of a cam with spring loaded detent, that has accurate marks to indicate the "SPI" or stitches per inch. Not for market but like you, just for use. Had to retire real early due to severe chronic pain, now almost 9 years and the main med. was reduced from 5 per day to 4 due to Opioid epidemic. Suck to be in so much pain, but now cost will have me stopping all future Dr. visits and when meds run out, so be it. I fabricate metal or make better but my focus is on a 67 C10. This is why I found this video. My commercial Juki will only produce stitches max of 9 per inch. A reinforced French seam in a nice seat leather requires about 4 per inch to look good. With the changes coming, I am not sure I can finish what I started, but have 5 years in this. Not for show, but EFI 5.3L with over-drive auto and 308 final to get good MPG. Just for me or called grocery getter. These where built like tractors with a bed and cab. The engine came from a late model Tahoe and yes, I know how everything works and gets wired. Just doing the seats as it is over 115 "Feel Like" temps outside. Great video in this machine that works great on everything from vinyl to 1.3mm leather. Thanks! Subscribed

@@deankay4434 ok, business first, the stitch length is not consistent so restricting the arm at a constant travel still won't produce consistent lengths, polishing up the mating wedges that advance the foot really improved the situation but because the advance is only at the whim of a spring, other things effect it too, to stay consistent it needs constant oil, foot pressure, thread tension, foot direction and material thickness. I would very much like to find a solution but feel it is in providing a positive mechanical advance rather than however far the spring feels like dragging two wedged surfaces against each other! I am now looking for a more serious machine as I am trying to sell my knives and sheaths so I'll be able to really go to town on this machine, fix the foot and make a reversing mechanism that has a positive pitch control. You are welcome here in England, healthcare is free, not the best quality and the waiting times are terrible but any Tom, Dick or Harry can get surgery or free drugs, and if you bring your truck you'd get a lot of respect from the right people and really piss off the anti-fun brigade!

@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 I absolutely agree that with all of the factors you have mentioned effect the stitch length. As always, try on a practice piece of the same material before commenting to your final project. Since it hand operated, anyone has the advantage of watching the stitch while they proceed and make adjustment accordingly on the fly. I have played around using some vinyl and thin leather with and without a fresh seam or folds of more material. The machine is simple enough and I enjoyed watching the process to improve the appearance & function. Smooth parts will always work better than rough ones, and you did a nice job on yours. I have a commercial Juki lock-stitch but not a walking foot. It's max stitch length is only 3.5 stitches per centimeter. To get a longer top stitch for show, I will use this machine. Needles make a difference as well as here "R" is universal and produce a slight twist, while "DI" or diamond stitch straight in leather. I am going to try different needles as well. Thanks for all the pointers & tips mate and have a pint on me!

Excellent! I am envious of your Singer, I have no idea if it would suit me better but they are very pleasing to the eye. All the best and I've got a few more to come in this series..... Maybe it'll never end

Beautiful

Shall I get a perm as well? The thing with the leather stitching is I normally try and follow a groove so go pretty slow and on stuff like knife sheaths where they are small I'm not worried about speed. The other consideration is there a still quite a few iron on iron running surfaces so running at speed is going to really knock the life expectancy down but plenty of folk have done it.

Cheers... I think!

@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 "half cut" is a Slang Term for Drunk...LOL

Cheers Sam!

I'm sorry my friend, very much still a machine stitch beginner myself. What I would say is that it takes a very long time to set up for different jobs.

Yes, mine had very sharp teeth on it when it came. Some people plastic dip them which sounds like a good grippy idea

Thanks, and good question! Cleaning up the rough machining is the only thing I consider vital, people who have used their patches a lot complain of stitches getting short which is down to wear which will be minimised just with a bit of sand paper as I've done in this video.

@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 Much obliged. I've followed your advice, and WOW! What a difference it makes. The most badly finished parts of my machine were the ends of the levers that rest on the cams. They had started to cut into the cams, digging a shallow groove, so I had to give them a severe grinding to round them off. A great video on disassembling the patcher: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-o5I8EdZyhzI.html

Vinnie you are such a nice boy, a true gentleman.

As long as you don’t adorn yourself with one of those fluro green Borat mankini things and start sewing, that would be just wrong! 🤣

Nice idea, I'd really like to remake both parts in a hard steel or mild steel and add a drop of hard facing weld

If you have Facebook I'd suggest joining the Chinese shoe stitch machine group and uploading some pics there, they are a very helpful bunch but I'm afraid without looking at the screw I don't think I can help.

@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 Thank you. I will do as you suggested.

Bantam if you are in the states. www.bantamsaddletack.com/Bobbins-for-Chinese-Patcher-Sewing-Machine--5-pack_p_48.html

It's got no problem penetrating canvas, just doesn't feed anything that isn't stiff too well so you need to put tons of pins in or cheat and glue it first.

@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 it bunches the material instead of feeding if its not stiff. Roger that, that makes sense. Sounds like you got 'er figured out!

@@welderguy you got it, takes a bit of setting up for different materials and thickness but lots of fun, found a huge old singer 95 now though so I'll get rid of this one soon.

It'll be a week or so before I manage a video on the lifter as I'm currently working on a knee operated lifter to go with it, I was going to lump them both together in the one video.

@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 Nice. I look forward to seeing it. I use mine for Leatherwork and the best upgrade I did was re-time it to accept commercial needles. I can run 207 thread in it now with zero issue...aside from the small bobbin capacity.

I don't know how that would have worked out with filling the rough spots in the casting, would be interesting to find out, but I didn't even consider it as he fits my small bits in around big commercial orders so the bike took 3 weeks.

I'd have to charge more than an industrial machine costs to make it worthwhile, I did try to give alternatives that require less tooling though, I hope these were helpful my friend.