Saving a few hundred pounds for a lifetime tool doesn't make sense to me. If this is what you really want then get the most with your budget and get the electrical work done. It hurts in the short time but you will love your situation for the long term. Go big!
You need at least 16 amp supply for this process to work properly. Please do not cut corners and expect a supply that runs a steam iron to be sufficient.
I think its worth considering a 16amp extension lead combined with a 16amp splitter. Both readily available. I think you are very unlikely to ever use the machines at the same time and therefore unlikely to cause problems with your supply. Its a cheap altrnative that i have used with three machines in my one-man workshop.
That's exactly what I came here to comment. You can always tack the extension tidily to the wall so it can't be under foot too and leave a bit of slack at the splitter (they look like guns lol) end so you can switch one leg over to another tool if needed without hassle, 16A ceeforms can be sticky to pull out and you don't want to yank your cable off the wall at the same time lol my vote on the machine would therefore be the record power 310(?) was it where it was all green except power and price
Hi Keith, upgrade the supply to 16 amp outlet. Be cheeky and ask Artisan Electrics, Cambridge. Let them make a video and do a deal on the installation. 😊
You said your looking for a forever planer, so at the price you're paying for the machines you're probably better off getting a 16amp, which will serve you better in the long term. Also an extra 16amp will give you more options in future should you decide to move things around. Maybe add several 16amp sockets around the workshop to give yourself more options for the future.
Hi Keith the dust hood needs to go inside the machine under the cutter block and you raise the table to trap this in place. I have the same machine and have little to no chips when surface planing. Give it a try before you let it go, the hood has a recess with goes around the bar which runs Under the table. Hope that makes sense 👍🏼
Hi Keith, as this is a once in a lifetime purchase…..’buy nice so you don’t have to buy twice.’ Also, this machine is as pivotal in any workshop as is a rise/fall saw bench! I would go the extra mile and have a 16amp ring main installed (if your supply has the capacity) so that you don’t face power restrictions again!
The the greater the number cutting edges, the greater the power required so if you are restricted to a standard socket you are limiting the number of cutting edges.
Just to note that 16A sockets should not be installed in a ring main, as the plugs are unfused. They should have their own 16A spur straight from the consumer unit, with a type C breaker to cope with the extra start up current.
Get a sparky in for half a day to put you another 16A socket in and this opens up your options! I’m my opinion, the itech and Felder are the more industrial machines and will be the better quality. The Axminster “workshop” series should be called the “shed” series as their aimed at hobbyists. Looking forward to seeing what you decide on as I will be upgrading soon too!
Man you're killing it lately. A new baby and you can afford to upgrade some expensive tools. You're a motivation seeing where you started on RU-vid and where you are now. It's mine blowing how rewarding this can be..I hope nothing but continued growth for you and the Mrs and the baby.
I got myself PT107 just last week. Been using it a bit now and have been satisfied so far. And that double lifting bed hasn’t really been painful to use. It’s quite fast. Just couple levers and that’s it. Time wise you don’t lose anything.
I would definitely upgrade the planer to the 16amp range as it’s a long term investment. I’ve had a hammer planer and spindle moulder and they were very well made coming from felder.
I'd go with the Record Power 310. Have had one for about 2 yrs and is a great machine, easy to use and transfer between both options is simple and quick and have never had any issues with snipe. The extra width and length of the table makes a big difference compared to the 107, you'll be glad if you decide to go for the bigger version. Have never had a problem with the 310, it's a solid bit of kit with an easily adjusted accurate fence and it's also easy to clean too. Probably the best machine in my workshop as never have to adjust it and is always accurate. They did make a 230v version couple years ago, not sure if the still do but I know that they have just brought out the 310 with the spiral head option.
Keith, I’ve been there. In the end I went with the Hammer A3-26 silent power. It’s a stretch in your budget but worth it. The switch from regular knives to carbide inserts is a big relief! Good luck 👍
Hey Keith, I just upgraded from the metabo version of your old machine to the Axminster ap260spt and I can only say it’s been worth every penny. I’m not saying splash out on that machine but that personally I’m so glad I didn’t compromise and end up spending time and stress dealing with a cheaper model. Maybe even hold off a few months and keep putting some penny’s aside. Good luck mate 👍👍
I've got the Axminster one, and it's great. Even got a discount to £1399. Accurate, simple to use, and a great finish. It is bloody heavy though! Took 4 of us to move it into the shed!!
I bought ex-display and had to get in in my car. On its side. Four of us to get it in, only me and the neighbour at home to get it out. Damn near had to strip everything off it bar the motor. Still almost killed myself despite heavy usage of levers and ramps to slide it on. But for £1,100 I was not leaving it...
I have the axminster planer and found it to be a fanstastic machine so far i have planed full width oak and ash on it both curly and straight grain and the finish has been fantastic, on curly grain the finish vs straight knives is night and day. For me the less cutters is a bonus as they are fairly pricey to replace. However you can get 4 rotatations and then sharpen them once for another 4. I havent really encountered any cons yet as its a far superior machine to my previous 😊
Hi Keith, I'm glad the footage was useful! Here's my opinion on the Charnwood. Pros. I have never found it lacking in power. It leaves an excellent finish so long as the knives are kept sharp. I keep an extra set of Knives so I always have a sharp set ready to go. The knives are easy to set with the tool provided. The chip extraction is good. The machine is easy to set. Cons. The fence is a bit fiddly and needs to be removed when thicknessing. The Bed/Tables lift towards you which is annoying especially if you have the machine near a wall. It would be better to have the tables lift back towards the wall ( although you would need to leave a big enough gap between the wall and machine so pros and cons again). Other than that I have no real complaints. If I had a bigger budget I would have gone with a spiral cutter and a single lift table which opens to the back just for the ease of use. Whatever machine you choose get a wheel kit for it.
Cheers John, I enjoyed your review of the w583, it looks plenty good enough for anything I'd use it for. I don't have a champagne budget but I've never been fond of champagne anyway!
The clue was at the start... 'forever planer'. Go 16A and best quality-capacity balance without delux options like helical heads. Then upgrade to very good helical heads if the extra use warrants it when you can afford. You may find the greater quality of cut from such a machine means you never need helical. 16A will mean it's nor straining so likely to last. As a recycled timber specialist, planer-thicknesser is a key part of your workflow. You need rapid set up. Similar with bicycles and many other heavy use machinery
I have the Felder 16" and love it. Based on this I would have to say the Hammer would be the one in this list (as it is a Felder product) I'd really look at.
It's a forever tool, so don't cheap out. Upgrade the electrics and stick with the "bigger is better" concept (which includes more power!). Go with the highest capacity Record Power PT310. It offers everything you want at a price point that should allow for the electric work and still be at your upper budget limit. It's only downside is the knives vs. spiral cutter head, which you said wasn't a big consideration and you'll always have the option to upgrade to a spiral head in the future. Believe me, after a few months you won't miss the extra expense and you'll forever be glad that you got the extra capacity, higher power, and easy to convert choice.
Hi Keith, The Axminster machine is a great unit and I was lucky enough to have a 1 on 1 demo a couple of weeks ago when I visited the Axminster branch new show room. The 24 blade helical head produces a beautiful finish on both soft and Hard wood. I was shown the device cutting a mixture of woods including Walnut, Elm, Poplar, Oak, Pine, Douglas fir and Red Cedar. I would be surprised if the 48 cutter heads would show any better finish if I'm honest. It was also surprisingly quiet whilst operating compared to my old DeWalt DW733. The product advisor Stuart also mentioned a possible soon to be announced, new addition to the range that would fill the gap between DIY and Pro users and whilst this wouldn't match what your looking for it confirms that the development team at Axminister are always looking to advance and improve the current products and are looking for the next best thing for all levels of users. I'd give them another call and ask for a review machine again and I don't think you'll be disappointed if you can get your hands on one.
I just bought my first house with half a garage, and I want to use salvaged wood to build my own furniture. This video has been very helpful for me to understand what to look for when buying a planer/thicknesser. Look forward to seeing more!
I think that the advantages of a spiral cutter have been very undersold in this video. Not only do they produce better results (as stated in the video), but the noise levels in operation a far, far lower.
The Record Power PT 107HB with the quantity 44 seems like it checks enough boxes to be worth the budget. Personally I cannot say enough good things about helical head cutters in general - I've never had a problem with them and my experience has been extremely low maintenance, much lower than knives.
Thank you Mark that's really helpful. Yeah I have been leaning towards the Record Power options for sure, even though the HB option with 44 is quite expensive.
I have the Axminster. Got it ex-display in the Basingstoke closing sale with closing discount on top of it. Works a treat for me, but setting the tables is a right pain in the butt. But hopefully a one and done job.
I had the 230v PT310 with spiral cutter before I upgraded to a AD941. Great semi-profesional planer/jointer. Highly recommend for higher-end garage/shed and semi-professional setups.
Hi Keith, I was in a similar position at the start of the year, took me months of going back and forth in my mind. I settled for the Charnwood spiral. The 16a topic isn’t one to worry about, it’s simple enough with a decent breaker. The machine is stunning to use and never stops amazing me at the quality and accuracy.
16amp socket installation is a no brainier, no point excluding a good machine because of the power supply. A simple and cheap 16amp extension can tie you over until funds are available for a permanent feed near the machine. Also consider the design of the dust extraction when considering the purchase. Spiral heads would be much better suited for using reclaimed or rough sawn timber which sometimes contains hidden or embedded bits of metal in the timber. Good luck.
I've got the axminster AP260SPT ~3.5 years ago, back when it was a 2 bed machine and much much cheaper. Spiral blades are wonderful, they're seemingly (nearly) indestructible still working well even after sectioning a screw. I've rotated the tips once so far, I too was worried about it but the night before I soaked them in penetrating oil, used my impact driver and they all came out without the slightest issue. The PT is accurate, reasonably quiet and I'm very happy with it. In usage the 2 beds is annoying but the worst bit is the fact you have to wind down the thicknesser table to the bottom to allow access for the dust hood, if any of them have got over that go for that one. The removal of the fence is also annoying, it's quick but as always you have to reset it to square. So if it were me, I'd go for one where you don't have to move the thicknesser bed during swap over, then a spiral block and finally one where you can leave the fence attached. One side note, a lot state they need a 16A socket but don't actually, I think it's that their big brother versions do need 16A and they've just fitted the baby one in the series with 16A . A 2kW motor should be fine on 13A. You can easily buy the adapters, the worst that happens is it blows the fuse in the 13A plug, I have them on my planer thicknesser and my bandsaw and never had a problem. I have also used the adapters in a commercial laboratory setting and everyone (H&S etc etc.) were fine with them.
Also, Keith, the one thing I dislike the most about combined Planer-Thicknesser machines is not that it takes a few moves to switch from one mode to the other, but that the combined design means thicknesser table is the reference moving up and down, not the cutterhead. This is fine for shorter boards that don’t need infeed and outfeed support rollers placed a certain distance away from the machine, but for a one man operation sucks on longer boards. If You intend to say thickness some 2m long boards in multiple shallow passes, turning the board over for each pass (like You would for a dining table glue-up), a standalone lunchbox style thicknesser becomes more convenient than a planer-thicknesser combo - the reference table height stays the same.
Definitely get electrical work done as gives you more options not only for this but future work. Spend a little extra now to make life easier in the future. Having had budget planners in the past and straight knives I would highly recommend spiral cutter heads for the less tear out, smooth cut but mostly the lack of noise. My extractor is noisier than my thickness planner. The single bed lift is something that once you use it would never go back as makes using the machine a joy instead of a pain. I got the hammer A3 410 spiral cutter and like it for the extra width. Regardless of the size I looked endlessly like yourself and the hammer was great value for what you get and solid. Hope this bit of input helps in your decision
I just got a thickness planer with a "helical" head and carbide cutters. I'm not regretting going with that at all, the cut quality is awesome. I've only used big industrial machines with knives before. I did consider buying a floor standing jointer/planer instead of a "lunchbox" thicknesser, still not sure I made the right call. From the choices you listed, I'd pick one of the big machines with a helical head and get the electrical outlet installed.
I'd say upgrade your electric outlet so you have another 16amp outlet. And go for the one that ticks all your boxes. I have a Former RD30 and was also sold under the record power brand, which I've had for nearly 30 years now is strong but when it does give up ill be replacing it with a helical head type and with lift up beds as finding a home for the table when you convert it is always a problem.
I've got an older Axminster craft machine which is very similar to the Charnwood and Record machine. It has 3 knives and has performed great for several years. The big downside to having the 2 tables to open is the space they take up when in thicknessing mode as they open at an angle and the cutter guard further adds to chaos. The single lift design that Axminster and others have since introduced looks much improved as it hinges straight back and appears that you can leave the fence fitted as well. Good luck with the decision!
Hi Keith, I was in the same boat last year I had narrowed it down to Holzprofi and Hammer. I have now fully decided on Hammer I haven't purchased it yet but their autumn sale event has really tempted me at €2390 for the A3-31 P/T it's the lowest price in a long time. Don't buy something you'll regret if there is a negative such as removing the fence or low power you'll be annoyed at yourself self in the future for not going for the better option
I've bought the DR310 from Holzprofi, with hellical cutters shaft, for 2700€, in March 2022. It's probably not selling in the UK. I don't see one alike in your list. It has the same plane opening tables. It's very practical. I've waited 5 months for delivery from China. It probably runs on 16A. I live in a new house with standard electricity. All the house is probably wired on 16A. It doesn't make sense to use electrical installations from anoter age, when it can upgraded without much work, like in a shop. I mainly work oak for my own furniture. It's a good tool for an amateur. You should buy the best one you can now that you need one!
I have exactly the same model. In planer mode, you have to wind the thicknesser bed down, and the extractor hood sits right inside, right underneath the cutter head. You will see how the U-shaped notch in the hood fits. Wind the thicknesser bed up a few mill to secure it.
The Hammer would be the one for me if I was buying again, I’ve had the A41o for a while. You can get the knives from another place other than Hammer/felder. I’m between Aylsham and Cromer if you want to have a look at the Hammer.
I recently bought a charnwood PT12S, spiral head, with the single lift table, it was expensive but like you I'm not changing it for a long time. It was a toss up between the record pt310 and the charnwood. I went with the charnwood for 2 reasons, 1 the noise levels on a spiral cutter block is significantly less than straight knives and 2 with a spiral block there is no messing about when changing cutters. The 16a power supply for me was not an issue as I'd need to upgrade either way. 100% go with a 16a machine. Buy once, cry once. 👍
I have a Felder combination machine which has the easy change planer head.Its a doddle to use. Two different spec blades are available and both are double edged . The chip collection is excellent.Height adjustment for the thicknesser in manual is very slow to use but I jury rigged a method of of adjustment by a power drill
As others have said I think a planer/ thicknesser is a tool it’s defiantly worth spending more on. I’d recommend getting one with a helical head - they do take longer to change but in my experience they also last longer and not getting tear out on difficult bits of grain is a huge huge plus
Just my 2C, I love the LJPT305 and have run 100s if not 1000s of meters of material through it but I fully understand the concerns with the motor issue. It's worth remembering that although the hood change isn't as smooth as the bed lift, it takes all of around 20 seconds to do and is simple enough. The other thing is that you don't need extraction hooked up to the LJ due to the internal fan and extraction set-up. As for the others, I've pretty much given up on Record and Charnwood due to the appalling after-sales and lack of spares. Same thing for the Itech, I was about to buy a sanding machine from them and they didn't keep spares in stock, told me it would be 6 weeks to get spares shipped from Canada, they may have sorted that but that's worth bearing in mind. Same thing with the CNCs, their sales team talked nonsense and had no idea what they were selling. Thinking about the Axminster, its sold with the helical cutter head so maybe the lower power motor works fine because of the lower amount of wattage needed with the smaller cutters? Axminster tools are always a great option, we have a bunch of them. If you're looking at upgrading to a 16A supply, I would go all in and get the Felder. They are by far the nicest, smoothest and most well-made bits of kit I have ever used and wouldn't think twice about dropping that money on any of their bits of kit. Have fun buying, good luck!
Hi Keith, I went through the same process earlier in the year! If operating noise levels are a concern go for a helical/spiral cutter head. Like everyone else I'd have to agree on upping to 16AMP now and eliminate power as a limiting factor in your decision making process. Bigger motor better for this type of machine, especially when the one motor powers both the cutter head and feed rollers. I bought the Charnwood PTS10 earlier in the year as noise was my biggest concern and can highly recommend it as its so quiet in operation and easy to use. Really easy to flip between modes and crucially the fence flips with the tables which makes changing modes less of a chore. I have a 1HP extractor and it copes easily (with a huge chip separator metal drum). BTW, I went from a Triton lunchbox thicknesser which was an absolute screamer but it had a 317m cutter block so I was concerned about losing some capacity on the width of cut but in reality that's not be a problem for me, but I'm glad I didn't scrimp on the capacity and went with the 10" machine rather than the 8" I was thinking of to save some money. Finally, don't overlook the digital counter for the bed height; I didn't realise I needed it until I had it!
@@RagnBoneBrown you're welcome. Looking forward to seeing what you go for! Also meant to say that when I was doing my research I was advised to go with cast iron tables over cast aluminium. I know at least the LJ has cast ally tables as it was on my list as well.
From years of having, my dad who was an engineer always said to buy the best you can afford look at what the 16A supply would cost and factor in the cost to keep to your 2K budget or bite the bullet and go over if you intend to keep it long term
Hi Keith, I am in the states and my situation is a little different, I have a Grizzly 15" planer and an 8" Jointer - not a combo. The jointer has a spiral head and the quality of cut is far superior to the straight blades on the planer. I recently planed some hickory and just about destroyed the straight blades. The jointer head has been going for 13 years and I have only had to rotate the carbides once in that time. It handled the hickory without any issues.
I bought the Axminster 2260s last winter to replace an old Record Power. The Axy is superior in every way, reasonable chip collection, MUCH quieter and superb cut quality. Customers service from Axminster has also been faultless. I'm in Fakenham, you'd be very welcome to try it...
I have the Metabo machine and I agree with all your complaints. The dust extractr shroud is secured to the machine using a screw in holder through both
For many years, I held off on upgrading electrical. Finally, I was "forced" to do it. What a relief. Was expensive but I have moving forward much more flexibility. I'd suggest you "bit the bullet" and upgrade your electrical. I'd be inclined to save a bit more and go towards the higher price point. It's what I did for my forever bandsaw and dust collection system. A different thought, have you considered getting separate planer and jointers? The Dewalt 735 table top planer or newer Oliver appear to be solid choices for thicknessers. Not sure if this opens up options on the jointer. Good luck.
I think the general census is to upgrade your electrics. This gives you more options. I’ve spent too much money on compromises in the past which has ended up costing me more in the long run. I should have bought a Festool Domino years ago but didn’t. Now at my age it’s a little too late. Good luck with your purchase. Mike
Hi Keith, the dust extraction when in planet mode was wrong. The dust hood goes under the top table and rests on the thicknesser table. Youd then wind it up and secure the dust hood in place.
If you have a 16 amp supply already, running a spur off that would not be expensive. You could always buy a decent extension cable. I’d go for the 16amp option and get the single lift top with 66 cutters. Buy once.
I have the PT107. Looks nice and works oké.. but changing between modes is still so annoying that it makes me want to buy a dedicated thicknessplaner so I can keep the PT107 in planing mode. Spend the extra money and go for the single lift bed option. Also the moving around of the pt107 with the 2 wheels and lift arm is not very handy in a small space. Another thing to consider is have to move the dust extraction hose from side to side.. which can be annoying too.
I would probably go for one of the newer record power options. first of all, I have a couple of their tools and they work great + the service they give is incredible. my bandsaw is second hand and they were happy to help me re-wire it when I found the previous owner messed up the wiring somehow. Many people are advising to opt for the 16amp options which isn't a bad idea but will be limiting if/when you have to rearrange your shop.
I would probably go with the helical head Record Power machine. And I would get the better head with more blades. But I'm bit partial because I have many RP machines and I have been happy with them. As I recall you have had less positive experience with RP so I understand if you are hesitant.
Cheers! Yeah the thing that's putting me off about the more expensive RP is that the Charnwood PT10S has the same number of cutters and 1 bed lift rather than 2.... So maybe I should figure out the 16a stuff after all!
If you can easily add 16 amp sockets then surely good call. And if you wont be moving your planer lot you wont need many new sockets. Whit 16 amp you could also get larger capacity models. Here in Finland normal wall sockets can go up to 16 amp so its easier. Then again here many larger tools come whit 3 phase (380v) power and that can be expensive too. @@RagnBoneBrown
If I were in your shoes I'd spend more money and go with a 16A machine and helical cutter head. I'm thinking of getting a new planer/ thicknisser at some point in the future for my own workshop. And the Hammer A3 41 seems a good fit for me. But it's a significant step up from the machines you're looking at.
I took a good 15-18 months deciding this. It was around the time that Covid hit as well and in the end the prices went up and my dilly dallying around cost me about £800. I’m a woodworker above all else (although still have a huge amount to learn) and not great on the whole maintenance replacing parts thing. So partly because of this I wanted as low maintenance a machine as possible. I also decided I would be better buying something that could last for life. I went for the JET in the end with the helical head. I know it’s above your ceiling price wise but there are features I have found to be invaluable. First, it has a “single” bed rather than the butterfly style. I read a huge amount of reviews and a common complaint about the butterfly tables was maintaining co planar between in feed and out feed sides. I really wanted to avoid all that faff. Secondly the helical head, I chose it as I had a separate thicknesser that I’d previously converted from flat blades to helical and the difference in cut quality was distinct. The biggest differences though were (a) the noise levels - noticeably less, and (b) the helical creates smaller chips compared to the “stringy” chips created from blades and this really helped dust extraction. So these things convinced me to dig deeper for something I was going to be more satisfied with. In your place, I think I’d still prioritise these things over the power supply which would take me to the Charnwood PT10S (that Axminster cutting looks a bit ‘cheap’ to me). Anyway sorry for the essay and hope some part of it was helpful - Billy. PS the Jet is an amazing machine if you’d be prepared to stretch for it and runs on a normal power supply 😬
@@RagnBoneBrown so I bought the jpt 310 hh in the end, the hh being helical head. It’s monophase so running on a normal 230V plug (I’m in France and I didn’t need any modifications to my shop for it…there is also a 400V triphasic version. Anyway it was about €3.5k but the jpt 260 is the slightly smaller one and it’s much cheaper (at least in France). When I check now it’s about €2400 or about £2100. I assumed there was an hh version of this but I can’t find one. So essentially for you, you’d be paying more but for flat knives, although on a normal power supply. You can add a digital height meter for the thicknesser part but it’s an extra. The build quality of the one I have is top quality and I’m over the moon with it. The 310mm cutter head has 56 cutters and it cuts so so cleanly. I’m sure the Charnwood is quality also for the money you’re paying (I think 44 cutters for a 260mm head would be plenty) so it’s probably not worth it for the Jet, if I’m being honest. I really struggle to get access to the UK brands in France so my options are usually limited. I waffled on a bit there again but the short answer to your question is probably “no, it doesn’t really do anything differently”. Also, Peter Parfit from New Brit Workshop has a couple of reviews for the Jet machines on his channel (260 and 310hh) if you’re interested and not seen them.
Go 16amp with a single lift bed. I went with a Jet JPT-260 a few years ago, and never had a single regret because it is perfect for my workshop and work volume (which is very similar to yours). Hope this helps. Hayden
Get the 16 amp upgrade and broaden your options in many ways. If price is more of an issue then it’s likely the one of the record options with the helical cutter coming soon. My choice ( not knowing more than your video in data) is the pt107
I know this is probably irrelevant to your choice now, but for future reference for adding any more 16amp supplies just add a Y splitter on the current supply for the new tool, just make sure you dont turn the both of them on at the same time, pretty difficult to use a planer and table saw at the same time lol Thats what Ive done. And seriously its really not difficult to add another 16amp supply, as long as theres a space for a new breaker, i did my own up to the point of wiring in the hot end at the fuse box, a mate did that part for me, I imagine I could of done that to if really had to.
I have a really old Metabo 310mm planer thicknesser which I changed the cutter block to helical cutter (at an outrageous cost) but the improvement in abilities was well worth it. I would not go with any motor less than 2000watts if you want to plane full width hardwoods esp recycled timbers which are inherently harder. So my money would be the hammer and get the electrics fixed to 16amp, at some point in the future have a play with a helical cutter but no less than 40 heads.....
That's a tough call, Keith... But I would save a bit more money and go for the better one, I guess. Either way, looking forward to see what you decide! 😊 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Keith I am about to comment the same as a lot of people here. If you are saying this is your “forever” machine then get the best you can afford and if that means running additional power to the new location then do that. Why compromise on a few hundred quid now (which I understand is no small amount), even if it means waiting an additional month or so, when you will only be disappointed with a compromised other option. One other point I would make is eveb if you buy a 16a option and it proves to be the wrong machine. You can still sell it on and then when choosing another the options for 16A and 13A are open to you. Good luck dude.
One thing you may have missed about Axminister (I phoned them yesterday) was that they void the warranty immediately if you purchase the "workshop" range as a business. They keep it in the small print, and it seems either deliberate or unfortunately out of touch. A 1699 planer thicknesser should have some form of warranty if bought by a company, even for 12 mo.
Totally go with the upgraded electric, you won't regret it! You did say this was a forever machine, get the one you want to use the most with the biggest muscles.
Though one there Keith, More power the better ,I would be better to fit a 16 amp circuit and it look's you got better options with the 2 Kw and 2.2 Kw. Any thing with a motor and over 2 Kw with a high amp start up can blow a 13 amp fuse. It can happen to a hand drill if you got a 500 watt drill you would normally fit a 3 amp it has a ratting of 690 watts because it has a high amp start up it will blow the 3 amp fuse so I fit a 5 amp which is ratted at 1150 watt. What ever planer thicknesser you pick it will be a good one and can't wait to see it . may be on your next video. As always a great video take care
I used to have the machine you are switching out, and purchased a used Jet JPT260. This one is from what I can tell a machine that should suit you quite well. It originally comes with a 3 knife cutter block, but I have later upgraded it with a Sheartak 54 blade helical cutter block. The machine works like an absolute dream, with amazing chip collection, double bed lift, nice mobile base and excellent finish on the material being sent through. Spending a few extra quid on this type of machine is something you definitely will regret later on. My current regret is that I didn’t find a 310mm wide machine right away.
As they say buy once cry once, get the very best one you can. 16amp, , personally I have the hammer a3-41. Will be the only one I ever own , it is that good. Stay safe
From personal experience i went to the felder unit in MK last week to check out their combination machines... i reached out to russell there and he showed me around the various machines available.. anyway long story short i chose the c3 41 which should be £16500 but got it with lots of extras free and came away sold at £13800.. worth a go.. they are quality machines built in Austria not chinese stuff and their aftersales is second to none.. hope this is of use
@@BigHenFor no was simply meaning that they need sales at the moment so if you reach out you might find something comes into budget.. all it takes is a phonecall.. and with a RU-vid base to show unboxing and review... can't hurt
It's not easy to get a foot through the door with companies unfortunately, a waste of time and effort in my experience... Always open to any company approaching me, but I've not got the energy or the negotiation skills to do it the other way around!
Keith, I’ve dropped my local Felder Sales Rep a text with a link to your vid. Hammer would be my only option. I went through a similar process during covid.
16 amp route I think. A splitter as suggested below would be a good choice, but I'm no expert in electrics. You said it would treat this like a forever machine, so unfortunately, you are just going to have to pony up the cash for the best you can get. In the long term, you'll be so much happier with a single lift bed and more powerful motor. It's easier said than done, but try not to let the budget make the final call on this.
You could y split the 16a feed after the outlet to give you a 16a tail to each machine. You can get solid plastic or wired y splits - they are very common in the events industry. It would work out much cheaper than an extra breaker as you could just order what you need online.
Go for the itech, I've got the axminster ap310spt and run this on a 16a to 3 pin adapter and runs fine. Either way, the spiral block is quieter, makes smaller shavings so easier on dust collection and gives less snipe
Agree with the recommendations to upgrade your electric. If this were a U.S. 120v to 240v upgrade, that could be done by combining leads. Don't know how that goes in a U.K. circuit with an amperage upgrade without a voltage change (I think). I do recommend you get some input on how the helical (NOT "helcical") head with just 24 blades cuts. In general, the difference between the number of cutters matters much less than the difference from long blades to any number of helical cutters. And the carbide edges (I guess you can get HSS or carbide, but no reason for HSS helical cutters) will last forever, not to mention the ease of turning one that gets nicked & almost never needing to buy more. Good luck!
Hi Keith, One thing that would be worth investigating in more detail is what type of motor each of the machines have. One with an induction motor will be nicer to use and probably perform better. The induction motor has the advantage of being much quieter and smoother in operation, and developing the maximum torque when running at speed. The cheaper and more common universal motors are louder and tend to develop their max torque at startup. For a job like planing you are not going to be starting it under load - so induction wins. The downside of an induction motor is they tend to draw high inrush current at startup and they often don't have a unity power factor. This is why a motor that does not look that powerful on paper (e.g. 1.5 to 2kW) can need to be fed from a 16A or larger circuit. It might only draw 10A when running - but the high inrush could easily pop a 13A fuse. If it were me, I would run the extra 16A outlets. You already have the circuit in place, so it is an easy DIY job to add some extra sockets. Also worth protecting the circuit with a type C MCB if it is not already, since these permit higher inrush current before tripping (10x nominal, rather than the 5x nominal of a normal type B MCB). It will give more flexibility and voice of machines in the future and is a "one off" cost.
Cheers, I would expect that they all have induction motors. I already have a C grade breaker, but my sparky tells me it's not considered best practice to run more sockets on that one circuit. We should have an alternative option figured out tho, more detail coming in a future vid. Cheers
Hi Keith, i have the record power pt260 which looks similar. You probably won’t care now, but I think you’ve been using the dust extraction wrong in planer mode. The duct sits on the thicknessing bed on mine, you lower it, put in the duct and then raise the bed to clamp it in place. It goes in from the opposite side you have it at the moment
I had the same issues choosing a new machine and i choose the jet JPT310 which i must say is Great. using it for almost a year and a half, i enjoy it. when you find the rignt settings it's performing and you only have to sharpen the knives.......infortunately i'm in france and don't know if you can fint a us model of this. i had to wait also to have the money.
I would run a 16a plug, especially if this a forever machine. Why limit some good choices based off of an outlet. Just my opinion of course. :) Not sure how it is in the UK but in the US it is easy to install a new breaker and run some wire for a new outlet (depending where your panel is located of course).
Hey Keith, just a suggestion on the 16amp options. As you have a 16amp socket already available for the table saw, could you loop of this to create a second socket where the planer is going to live? This would be cheaper than running a new circuit for sure, and realistically, as a one man shop, the table saw and planer would never be running at the same time. I don't know for sure what the regulations are around this, just spitballing! Even if this is not possible, and it does require a separate circuit, I think it would be worth the extra few bob in the long run. Best of luck with the decision!
In my experience, when it comes to choosing between several options, there is rarely one that meets all the desired characteristics. And if it exists, it always exceeds the budget. One has to choose what to give up. In this case, it seems to me that, since it is an investment with a long expected period of use, the issue of the need to modify the electrical installation (if it can be done at a reasonable cost) should not be the limiting factor. A more powerful machine with good cutting capacity are qualities that I would not give up. And the comfort of use, without having to do complicated maneuvers, is also very important.
That Axminster helical cutter block is very similar to the ones Felder/Hammer uses when you get the Silent Power helical head option, even on their most expensive machines, although the Felder/Hammer cutters are closer together to the point of touching side to side. But if they perform similarly, then they are quite good. If you're not used to a helical cutterhead, vs just a carbide insert head, then they can look a bit sparse.
I am not sure of the coding but the Hammer machine can be supplied with their own version of a helical head. The build quality on these machines is exceptional. Go 16A with two sockets extra you know in your gut you will have less circuit blowouts.
The budget is 2K . The Charnwood is 1800. Get that and a splitter/extension cord. Once the budget recovers think about making the electrical a bit nicer. I know I would regret not getting the most machine I could if this is the last one I was going to buy.
Considering you plan for this to be your last planer/jointer purchase, I would suggest upgrading the electrical supply and getting a 16amp tool that will earn you back in time, cost, and enjoyment more quickly what you spent on the electrical upgrade and extra cost for the higher end machine. My advice would be different for a hobbyist, but this is your livelihood... Read: it's an investment. I look forward to seeing what you ultimately decide on!
I have to say, if I were in tlyour shoes, I'd be considering the top of the line, at least as far as budget permits. You said you were thinking of this as a lifetime tool, so don't set yourself up for a lifetime of frustration. If that means getting the electrical work done, then so be it, mate. You will have a looooong ass time (hopefully) to live with whichever you choose. Go as far as quality+.budget allows
