Walter I just sent you an email with a couple pictures of my knives. Keep it up your channel is what started me into knife making and doing RU-vid knife reviews
I would like to make a Norman style sword. I have had problems with O1 in the past with brittleness, but I may not have normalized it properly. This was a great discussion Thanks Frank
O1 isn't the best for swords unless it's differentially heat treated or you stick some potatoes and carrots on the edges and go nut with the blow torch
@@Dylanschillin O1 can work but ends up pretty complicated from what I know. If you have the equipment or can getto rig it a bainite heattreatment should help. I've seen people manage it with hot oil baths vs full on molten salt.
I will send an email once i finish hand sanding my friends knife. I managed to get a slight hammon on an 80crv2 blade but very feint, problably from the nickle content you mentioned and the clay I used wasn't the best.
You mentioned needing to bend a japanese sword back if you bend it during use. Have you made a video detailing this process? I have one that took a bit of a bend after hard use. Would be great to right it.
Hello Walter - I hope this doesn't seem like I am a pain in the ass... just trying to help. I think you got L6 in the higher carbon category. It is surely alloy steel compared to the 10xx series, but it has .7 or less carbon. Maybe you can take L6 off that group in the video? Not many will notice, so it may not matter. You are right re: 80CrV2 and toughness, according to tables in places such as Knife Engineering. Anyway, you know I support you and we are sort of acquainted. Best wishes. Thanks for the outstanding channel. I send people here often when they get serious about the knife disease.
I’d also like to play around with AEB-L at around 58 hrc. I use it at 60 for all kinds of kitchen cutlery and based off the charts I’ve seen, it has great toughness for a stainless steel. I probably wouldn’t make a full sized katana at 61hrc but I think a 20”-24” blade would be completely doable.
The shock is likely still too much. And 58 is already pretty hard for alot of swords. A few makers have done sharp stainless swords but usually requires specific alloy selection and really really complicated heat treatments. The one I know of that used to exist had a heat treatment done to like aero space style standards and has softer in the core then the rest of the blade.
walter go watch the video Ilya made on the channel That works, because he talks about how similar western swords are to katanas in that they all usually have a hard steel edge and a softer mild steel/iron core and neither are really meant to be a spring and there are many examples of western blades that have hamons, partly because bloomery steel is shallow hardening
Assuming there was no price restrictions and it was all available. What would be the ultimate metal to use for a katana? Also assuming working that metal wasn't an issue. Is there a ultimate metal?
As always very informative video. What would you say about T10 steel, for Japanese swords? Some would argue that it’s the closest steel to authentic katana, some would not. What is your opinion, and overall what you think about T10 steel. Best regards, Anri M. P.S. how’s the tool box coming along? Have you finished it? All the best my friend and happy birthday to J. 😉✌️
"If you're trying carry home a bunch of 4X8 plywood from Home Depot that Ferrari's not going to be much good to you." Sure, i might not get a whole lot into the Ferrari, but what little i do ill get home really fast. : )
@@MrZetor lol of course that's annother good reason of that steel being my favorite! It's everything about it, that makes me love it! Even the feel of the steel in your hands, after polishing the blade. The edge it takes feels crazy good too! the smoothness of it's cutting ability. That feel on the stones when you sharpen it too.. Damn it wants to get sharp, like no other steel does!!! For people that don''t like how D2 steel sharpens, then 52100 is the exact opposite, in any sinlge detail. I could speak more about it, but someone has to experience these values for himself, to be able to understand, how good that steel is!! At 60-62 hrc, no other steel can come close, to make me like it, as ballbearing steel does!!!
Awesome! you really got to visit the " Klingenmuseum Solingen " ! a while back a Smith from Switzerland told be, " there Where no Alloys " in ancient weapons. well……… How does it come, that the Dagger of " Tut anch amun " got 3% Nickel? How does it come that an Ulberht Sword was possible? ;)
I think he meant that there was no alloying on purpose (besides carbon of course). Some iron ore deposits had a wide range of other elements within them, therefore producing somthing you could call an alloy. I heard that the smiths in Toledo producing rapiers used iron ore in composition akin to modern springsteel (in its composition, not its quality of course) but dont quote me pn that...
@@ArthurHerbst the Weapon forge of Salamanca, was foundet by bladesmithes of Solingen! ;) this Profession ment to travel around in acient times, when there were no wars nearby. ;)
same with other parts of the world that only edge harden their blades, like south east Asian, India, and middle east, although the difference is that they don't clay harden it, which means their spines are entirely un heat treated, where as, the spine of Japanese blades are lightly heat treated
Another that seems to be overlooked (maybe rightfully so) is 3V. Very high toughness, good edge holding, and when I messed around with it @ 60hrc, it was solidly in the “semi stainless” category imo. Not saying it wouldn’t rust after a while (so will most stainless steels) but I couldn’t get it to take an etch at all with my acid bath. It’s a pita to grind both before and especially after heat treating, is quite expensive, and the heat treat is more complicated than other simple steels (I’m sure there are countless recipes, some easier than others).
Hey there Walter I wanted to ask a question about tapering a long blade and what's the best way to do it. I've searched and searched and cannot find anything and wondered if you had any pointers?
what steel are you using for the closest to a traditional Japanese old style Katanas? Like 1080? or 1060? if you want a really good Hamon is there a lower steel in carbon that allows =for that?? Do you have any swords Katanas for sale ready to go? how do I see and look at them online ? Great chanell by the way! Thanks
Walter Sorrells, you mentioned for medieval style swords that 80crv2 and 5160 to temper at 600 degrees Fahrenheit.. would 1075 steel be around the same temperature? 2 hours for 2 cycles?
Thank you for your generosity with your knowledge! Is there enough of a market for custom knives for a part time maker to be able to “self fund” their hobby? Thank you!!
What brand did you get. As long as it's heat treated right, 1045 is a good steel for katana. It's more forgiving than the harder steels but at a loss of edge retention.
That just refers to a process in how the steel was shaped into the stock. And also no if the sword is shaped that way. If the steel was just cold rolled to stock shape then forged or made into sword shape via other methods then it should be fine. More details would be better.
Why would anyone use Ti in a sword or in any knife (except for seawater diving and/or climbing)? For bolsters, go for Gr2 instead of Gr5. It is cheaper and much easier to work with.
@@T-DsGaming I've heard its abrasion resistant so hard to work witb but wouldn't that mean it will hold an edge longer I've seen man at arms make titanium swords and things thats why I'm curious