Genuine/oem Rev counter lovingly fitted to the Shitroen. Some newer models of these cars don’t always have the plug to connect the rev counter/tachometer, so before buying one for your car make sure the plug is there.
I didn’t know at the time of filming this video, but some later model cars don’t have the plug on the loom for the rev counter to connect to. I’d recommend checking if your car has the plug before buying a rev counter.
I love how modular these car are, a beautiful simply design, the air vent are just design perfection, one bit of plastic but does the job perfectly. And so much fun to drive. Thanks for the Citybug videos I've enjoyed each and everyone
Precision cutting out. I bet you are dead good at colouring in too. We'll just ignore that other cowling on the passenger seat. 😂 Top instructionage as usual. 👍
I decided to retrofit air conditioning to my C1 this summer for a bit of fun. I bought all the bits from a complete scrapped C1 for £85. Took a whole day to swap it over to my car which was easy to do as all the electrical connections are there in the loom. Works lovely and wish I'd done it years ago 😊
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos you swap out the the entire heater box which contains the evaporator and control valve. I had to cut out the hole in the bulkhead to allow the air con boss to poke through (look at the hole already in the soundproofing on the bulkhead. The drain out the bottom needs a hole cutting in the drivers footwell. You need: the heater box, the centre console controls (for recirc) and bardon cables, the dashboard switch, the compressor (with mounting plate), hoses, clips, rubber drain pipe thingy for the drivers footwell, a longer fan belt, pipes/hoses and don't forget the air conditioning relay from the fuse box! I used a brand new condenser as they are cheap enough.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos you can suss out what to do while stripping it out the donor car. I really should have filmed it. It would make a great how to video....
Just welded the rear, inner sills on my 2005 C1 this evening. Was drying the stone chip with heat gun before driving home in the rain. Gonna need rear shocks (very rusty) & droplinks for MOT.
Iya! As long as you’ve got the wire for it then it should work. Some of the newer cars don’t have the plug for some reason but being auto shouldn’t make any difference as far as I know. Pull the speedo cover off and see if the plug is there before ordering one though
Im just experimenting with this myself but going one step further and getting a left hand drive one. It should fit the pod as the plastic is universal for both even the cowel has both side cutouts, obviously i dont want two rev counters so i will gut the lhd one and put other crap inside it like a temp guage and some other shit, see how it goes ;) EDIT: and now ive watched your video i see you touched on the left hand side version, the clocks will look like mickey mouse with both
Yes some people in the groups have them fitted as clocks. Good idea tbh especially when replacing the original stereo as a lot of stereos don’t show the clock all the time
I’ve got probably a grands worth of screw drivers in my tool box, but choose to struggle with shit quality incorrect ones, just for a feeling of false accomplishment 🤷♀️
What are the chances you could use a universal aftermarket rev counter if it fits inside the housing for the oem one? I’m not overly good when it comes to the electrical side of things
It’s possible it but if you have the standard one it’s gonna be easier just to fit that 🤔 There’re obd ones like the HUD I have that are easy to fit, but there is a slight delay in their operation in my experience
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos so realistically, I could splice into the wiring for the tachometer and just wire in a fancy pants one? Not keen on the idea of an OBD one
@@Underscore.Bambii I doubt that would work as the signal given out is probably specifically for the oem type rev counter. The oem one is probably the easiest and best option, but since I made this video I’ve been told that some newer model cars done have the wiring for it
I hope i'll get an answer, i can't find it anywhere, so on my peugeot 107, the dipped beamlights stopped working, both of them. Replaced the bulbs, still nothing, highbeam works just fine, also, the dipped beam dash indicator ( the green one) does not show on my dashboard, any suggestions? Thanks
I think the fuses for the headlights are in the fuse box next to the battery, but it could have one fuse for each side and it’s unlikely for both to fail at once but I could be wrong and could just have one fuse for both sides. I’d check first anyway as it’s the easiest/cheapest fix. If that doesn’t work then possibly the relay, or the indicator stalk with the headlight switch inside it.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Thanks for your fast reply, i've already checked the fuses next to the battery, actually all of them, lol, no problem there. Where i can find that relay? I've heard about the indicator stalk but some tutorials gave me nightmares.
@@tweakshow4463 I’m not sure where the relay is, maybe worth searching for a relay diagram in the Google though. Do the mean beam lights stay on or do you have to keep the stalk pulled we in flashing to make them come on?
It should do, as long as you get the right one. There’s one for the petrol, and a different one for diesel models. I’ve also heard stories of the plug not being there on some later cars (2012 or so), however can’t confirm if it’s true or not so maybe worth checking that you have it before buying one.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos I see. Well my friend is selling one but it's not precut. Are scissors enough? I mean I see you are using scissors but is it a pain to cut it?
@@xylophone3764 any garage should be able to fit it, but make sure your car has the plug to connect it before buying one. Some newer models don’t come with it
