Well thank you for this video. I have a craftsman drill press & the chuck just fell off. I was looking for a set screw, nothing. Came across your video & it just smacks on. Thank you sir. By the way, that's a great Wilton vise.
@@JeffsShop Jeff I’d be grateful if I could talk to you some day on the phone, once I get into my rebuild. How can I contact you - or if you prefer I’ll post my phone number where you designate. I know you’re busy so I’ll be organized and prepared to not waste your time. -Mark
@@JeffsShop Got it Jeff, thanks. I also found your thread on Garage Journal and wow, what a treasure trove. I am digging in deep there to get smarter. God bless you, what you've done there is amazing.
Holy heck, that a THOROUGH video. My quill rusted stuck (from mouse pee) and in the process of trying to break it free, I damaged the chuck. Your video is a huge help - will let me get the chuck off so I can repair the damage or replace the chuck.
I am glad you found the video helpful. I can sympathize with a rusty quill. My first 100 series drill press had a rusted quill in the head that took me weeks to get out. I tried everything from penetrating oil to vinegar. I used heat and hammers to eventually get it out and all throughout the process, I was worried I would crack the head or break something. Very nerve racking and frustrating. However, perseverance pays off. Good luck on your rebuild.
I wish this info was available 3 years ago. I tossed an Emerson gen three head with lots of usable parts when I moved from California when I couldn’t figure this out on my own. I’m working on three Craftsman DPs now, and this series is very helpful. I’d like to see you do a Craftsman “Mohawk” (‘42-43) one of these days. One of my back burner projects.
Kit, I would love to do a Mohawk. There is one for sale near me but they are asking too much for it. If I find one at a reasonable price I will do a series on it. I really like the look of the Mohawks and have wanted to grab one for several years now.
Your videos are more than helpful, thank you for posting them. I have a craftsman 103.21771 Drill Press. My chuck has part #15T33C with a safety collar similar to the Jacob's 34-B you described in this video, however is has a set screw below one of the holes in the collar. I do have the chuck key with the protrusion to remove the locking collar. Before I bought a spanner wrench I tried the chuck key and the collar loosened and but only turned about 3/4 of a revolution with a hex in a drill press vise. I applied arm pressure but that was all I could get. Because it turned easy for that 3/4 revolution then stopped I'm hestitant about apply too much torque at that point. I did remove the set screw before I initially tried to loosen it. I will order a spanner wrench but I'm concerned about applying too much pressure or as you did in the video nudge it with a deadblow hammer. Any suggestions?
Thank you or your comments. It sounds like you my have a supreme chuck. I would recommend you go to the garage journal forum, set up a free account and post some pics of the chuck with your question in this thread: www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/craftsman-drill-press-information-belts-bearings-chucks-keys-etc-1946-1984.489080/
Hi Jeff, another great video and an excellent guide for Jacobs chuck disassembly and assembly. Suggest the title be modified to include those key words.
Thanks so much for the videos! I'm rebuilding a 150 series King Seeley now, and they've been a big help. I do have a couple questions. Do you know of a source for the return spring - I need the one with loops on both ends? And, do you have a paint code for the gold you use? Thanks!
The springs are no longer produced; however, I have ordered some and should have them for sale in late October. Keep an eye on my YT channel, I will do a video once they are available. As for the paint code I use a rust-oleum hammered gold # 7210.
Jeff, love the videos. Currently refurbishing a 103.23141…need some help with the bearings. What size and where do I get the 2 quill bearing and the 2 bearing for the pulley at the top? Keep up the great work. I’ve learned a ton!
Congratulations on the drill press. The Quill Bearings are 6202 5/8 bore. The measurements are 5/8” bore x 35mm OD x 11mm tall. The 6202 comes standard with a 17mm bore so make sure you get the 5/8 bore. The Spindle (for the spindle pulley assembly) are 6205 bearings measuring 25mm bore x 52mm OD x 15mm tall. Everything you could every want to know about your drill press can be found in this thread on the Garage Journal forum www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/craftsman-drill-press-information-belts-bearings-chucks-keys-etc-1946-1984.489080/ Also here is a link to your owner’s manual: www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/craftsman-drill-press-information-belts-bearings-chucks-keys-etc-1946-1984.489080/
Hi Sir. Nice presentation. My craftsman drill press has 633C and 33T stamped on the jacobs chuck. Can you direct me to the proper key? I know you said S-K3C, but I also see K3?
I believe the K3 and the K3C are the same key. The S-K3C is a self ejecting version of the same key. It is possible that the K3 does not have the turned down end to lock and unlock the safety collar so if you need that feature be sure to get the K3C or the S-K3C. McMaster-Carr, Grainger, Zoro, shold all have them.
Your video was well produced and contained a wealth of knowledge, thanks! But just like the split nut not seating on your drill chuck teeth, my 34B is a CAP 0-1/2" drill chuck with a THD 5/8-16 (It does not have safety collar). Currently attached to my Drill Press Chuck is a threaded 5/8-16 to MT2 shank/tang arbor. (MT2 Tang fits into the DP spindle) The threaded portion of the arbor is stuck in the DP chuck and I am curious how you would go about trying to separate them. Try penetrating oil, vinegar, or use heat on threads? I am uncertain if I should use locking pliers on the tang and maybe a hammer? ( I should note that I believe the arbor is bent and the tang is twisted. Hoping those issues are where my runout is coming from) Thanks!
I would soak the assembly in simple green for 24 hours, rinse, then soak in citric acid for ano0ther 24 hours then rinse, towel dry and attempt to separate. If needed, pb blaster and force. Heat then force. Lastly, Freeze then force.
Yes, it is connected to the chuck body with an internal retaining ring. It is very difficult to remove the retaining ring and I do not recommend it. Also getting it back into the small area between the body and the locking ring is very hard.
So this is just press on? I’m having one heck of a time getting it off. Is that 81861 the best spanner wrench for it? I noticed the pin size is different than the key size. Once that collar hits the chuck it just won’t go anywhere regardless how much force I use. But the key it going to slip out and smash my knuckles so I’m ordering a key. Other question is is there really a need to pull the chuck out and apart? I'm not e a full resto on it. just cleaning it up and getting it into good working order. Ido noticed about midway the chuck goes from smooth operation to a bit tight. still able to spin it by hand but it definitely has some resistance.
I am not sure what the best spanner would be, I just used one that fit the chuck and hole. The safety collar is a standard right hand thread. I have had to use a cheater bar before to get one off. Just be careful to not strip the spindle thrust collar. As for removing the chuck at all, thats up to you. I do it one every drill press I work on. Since your chuck is binding a bit, sounds to me like it just needs to be cleaned. I am not sure how you lubricate if you do not disassembly it.
@@JeffsShop ok thank you! I just wanted to make sure that it was probably just on there super hard. I’ll have to order a spanner for it. I can’t find anything suitable locally. I guess if I have it it’ll give me an excuse to buy more 150s to pull apart. Yeah I’ve tried everything to clean it while still on there. I probably blasted it with a whole can of wd40, I’ve found that dummy for lubricating, but great for cleaning. All that did was possibly make it bind a little more. I feel I may have freed some gunk up but it has no where to go. My fear is creating runout. Right now it’s dialed in about as good as one can be I think. By stripping it you mean the key holes? They are already a bit wallowed so yeah it’s a concern. I just want to thank you from the pit of my being for your series. I’m going to be honest I’ve never had as much fun working in something as I have this. Your videos definitely inspired me.
@@A51Zombie I was talking about stripping the spindle thrust collar. I assume you have a Jacob’s 34 B or C with the safety collar? The safety collar threads on to the Spindle thrust collar. It is possible to strip the threads on the Thrust Collar. Before you try a cheat bar on it. Perhaps you can take some pics of what you are looking at and post them on Garage Journal Forum in the thread below. FrankLee often has some good ideas to try before you try more force. Here is the thread. www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/craftsman-drill-press.227480/
@@JeffsShop It says 633C on it but yes it does have the safety collar. I got a spanner the other day for it but haven’t done anything with it yet. I actually got one with a 6mm pin which I slightly too big. I figured I’d be better off filling it down to a more exact size since it’s wallowing out a bit already. I’ll snap some shots and head over to GJ to see what input he has.
Craftsman Drill Press 1/2 HP Model 124.34983 Again Great Video! As you joked about a few things in your presentation I had to laugh myself nothing goes as planned!! I followed all your instructions on taking the chuck off and the spindle sleeve that it's attached to. I got to the collar part (they call it a bearing in the manual) that I think protects the threads (not sure that there are threads at the moment) and looked at my collar and can't figure out which model chuck it is? It doesn't have the holes for the spanner wrench and I'm not sure the wedges will work either for the chuck removal? There is a little small 1/2 rectangular notch at the top of the bearing on one side and that's it.. Do you think the wedges would work for removal of the chuck?
I think your best option is to start a free account on Garage Journal Forum and post your question and some pictures showing your chuck. It will be easier to figure out what you have and how to best proceed. Post in this thread Thread www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/craftsman-drill-press-information-belts-bearings-chucks-keys-etc-1946-1984.489080/
