Cleaning A Green Pool: Green Clean 

Keep sharing my channel and hopefully it'll get there. 🙏

Thank you so much. Let me know if there's any subject you'd like to see me do a video on.

For more great DIY Pool stuff check out my website poolschooler.com

That is awesome! But make sure you enter according to the guidelines.

Hi JAC You'll have to email me as directed in the video to enter the drawing for the hat.

I believe it will.

You're welcome. And please remember to subscribe and share.

It's worked every time for this type of situation.

Q

Glad you enjoyed it

Thank you for your kind words. I wouldn't use Trichlor shock. Rather I'd use liquid chlorine. If your pool is green the trichlor granules can help remove the green but to just raise the chlorine levels use liquid chlorine. ALSO, what is your CYA. Too high or too low and your pool water will have a tough time holding the chlorine. YES you can add the PR 10k and chlorine at the same time. For your pool if it's not green I'd add 16 oz of the PR10k. if it's green perhaps 20oz. Also if it's green make sure you backwash and recharge the filter every 2 days or so. Hope that helps.

Yes absolutely.

Chandler, Gilbert areas. The swimming bugs out here are seasonal and usually don't hurt anything. BUT proper chlorine levels should keep them away.

Black mold on grout lines try using a spray bottle with a 1 to 4 mixture of bleach (we do this with our shower tile grout). Spray on well, let sit for 30 minutes or longer and brush and rinse off. As far as rust, that's not as easy since it's underwater. Usually you can take care of this when you do an acid wash on your pool.

That pool is pretty large. I'd say 35k gallons at least. Its pebble tech.I do not recommend cal hypo I didn't think it was as effective as the Tricolor granules. Typically you should clean the cartridges at the very beginning of the process then shortly after the pool clears up. I believe I said that in this video.

Here's two brands Pool Season: super Algae Destroyer jacesupply.com/products/pool-season-12000146-2-pool-season-super-algae-destroyer?variant=32982672769109&currency=USD& E-ZChlor Granular Algae Out www.wholesalepoolequipment.com/pool-chemicals/sanitizers/e-z-clor-12000534-10-granular-algae-out-az-in-store-only-EZC-50-9210?adgroupid=120435404080

Wow Thanks for the fast reply I never expected that; thank you for the information also

@@brendaeliot1768 You are welcome. Glad to help.

May an hour or two max. Also you can add 1/2 a gallon at a time if the pH is really high.

I'd run it 24/7. It shouldn't clogged up just running over night. If your filter clogs up quickly you may have a DE leak and all that DE you recharge it with is going back into the pool only to be vacuumed out and clogging up your filter. Make sure your grids are intact and not torn.

If there's that much sludge on the bottom I'd suggest vacuuming that out first. If you have a sand filter or DE filter you should be able to vacuum to "waste" directly. If it's a cartridge filter you may have to clean the cartridges first, then after vacuuming it before you start the procedure I show in the video.

You live in Florida so I'm assuming you have a lot of vegetation around your area. I'd guess your issue is your phosphate levels are SUPER high. Get those down and you'll be golden. Please PLEASE watch my video on Algae and Algaecides and Why You Don't Need Them. It'll explain about phosphates. Here's a link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MzGoK4Cd7tc.html

Absolutely. I'd still use phosphate remover once a month as maintenance.

@@PoolSchooler Does the phosphate remover work when the CL is high say 7 or above

@@albertmyers7176 Absolutely.

I'm not a fan of algaecides as they usually contain heavy metals like copper and I don't like that in a pool where it can absorb into the skin.

@@PoolSchooler I understand. Its just what they supply me with. Both places I have worked were the same. When Im out on my own I will look into the phosphate stuff. Thanks for the hat suggestion btw. Its really light weight and nice. Much nicer than my old straw hat.

I did a video on lowering the pH of your pool without affecting the alkalinity. I would never recommend adding more than 2 quarts of muriatic acid to your pool at a time waiting a couple hours with the pump running to circulate the chemicals test it and then repeat it until your pH level gets to where you want it.

Sorry to say it expired. But it's still a great hat I use it every day during the summer and when I'm on vacation. They're the best

Never had any issues with bad effects for too much phosphate remover (now that may be different with other phosphate removers) but using the PR10,000 I've never put in too much nor have I had any bad effects from using it.

They are, except to do a start up on a salt pool you need to add salt to get your salinity level up to the recommended levels for that system. If you contact your local pool supply store tell them how many gallons your pool has and if you’re starting with freshwater tell them that and The recommended level of a manufactures for yourself so they should be able to tell you how many bags of salt you need

Yes. Absolutely.

Personally when I'm servicing a pool once a week I can't come back every few hours to test and add additional chemicals. So I typically will add all the chemicals at once (distributing them around the perimeter of the pool WITH THE PUMP MOTOR RUNNING), THE CYA I will put in the skimmer basket to more rapidly erode it and thus disperse it in the pool. HOWEVER if you have the time (say you are the owner and can go out every couple of hours to test and continue adding) I'd get some chlorine in there ASAP if it's really low then add a Quart at a time of Liquid Muriatic Acid wait an hour or so and retest then add more as needed (never more than 2 quarts at a time). The Alkalinity should also come down as well. But if it doesn't you can try a pound of Dry Granular Pool Acid the same way

Sorry I don't know what a floc is.

@@PoolSchooler the stuff that makes everything settle to the bottom and then vaccuum to waste. Like Revive.

@@Zaven59 Typically a suction side vacuum will suck all that up and what doesn't get caught in the pump basket will get trapped in the filter and then you would clean out your filter. (sand or de backwash, cartridge clean.

Anywhere from $300-$500

@@PoolSchooler thank you so much , I’m learning a lot from you

@@inquietos01 Glad to help. For Moree great DIY Pool Stuff check out my website poolschooler.com

If you have blowback of DE in the pool when you recharge the filter grids then either the grids are not installed correctly or you still have a torn grid somewhere. Check the manifold check the grids reinstall everything because there’s no reason you should have any blowback. Question… Does this pool have an in floor Pop up cleaning system with a separate pump for the pop ups or a suction side vacuum?

@@PoolSchooler she has a side suction. No “in floor pop ups”.

@@erickrhernandez1451 OK, so it’s got to be something in the grids or how they were put back in. You might have to pull it apart and double check everything.

Wow, observant. Yes they were custom made. We both have them (hers is mush more dainty).

Do you have a variable speed pump or a single speed?

@@PoolSchooler I got the Pentair Entelaflow. It is variable speed

@@natethetoe386 the easiest way to do that is to choose the setting for “service” mode which will override the timers and then you can just start the pump hitting the start/stop button. In that setting, the pump will run until you either manually shut it off or put it back to “auto “mode but make sure you take the system out of service mode and back into auto mode once you’re done, running it 24 hours a day. In service mode. If you shut it off, it will stay off. If you turn it on it will stay on until you manually either turn it on or off again or reset it to auto mode.

@@PoolSchooler is there a video on how to do this? I

@@erickrhernandez1451 Unfortunately I don't have one. Sorry.

There’s something about the trichlor that helps kill existing algae. Not being Ia chemist I’m not sure why it works better but I’ve tried it without and with and it works better with.

Like I said in the video, run the pool 24/7 until it's clean. You may have to clean the filter periodically during this time. If it's a sand filter backwash it every day, DE, backwash and recharge every three or so days, Cartridge, clean the cartridges before and after. I'd also suggest watching the entire video as I explain all of this in it.

@@PoolSchooler thank you so much! I am addicted to all your videos! You provide so much information! Yes I have been cleaning my filter cartridge everyday. Should I repeat the process of shocking it and adding more orenda??

@@Carmenerdz72 What size pool do you have?

@@PoolSchooler it is an above ground. 30x5’. About 22,000 gallon of water.

@@Carmenerdz72 Ah, ok now that helps. The filters that come with those above ground pools are really not sufficient to filter that much water. Those single cartridges are very small and just don't work well. May I suggest upgrading your system to a better filter (cartridge or sand). There are several. Just do a google search for Above Ground Pool Pump/Filter Combos. Pentair and Hayward both make very good (and more effective ones). Here's a couple links as examples: Hayward: www.doheny.com/hayward-pro-series-sand-filter-system-16-in-filter-with-1-hp-power-flo-lx-pump?mrkgadid=1&mrkgen=gpla&mrkgbflag=0&mrkgcat=equipment&&acctid=21700000001664618&dskeywordid=92700050254663779&lid=92700050254663779&ds_s_kwgid=58700005503833605&ds_s_inventory_feed_id=97700000007570802&dsproductgroupid=652940417270&product_id=20283&merchid=45111&prodctry=US&prodlang=en&channel=online&storeid=%7Bproduct_store_id%7D&device=c&network=g&matchtype=&locationid=%7Bloc_phyiscal_ms%7D&creative=337189459376&targetid=pla-652940417270&campaignid=1728123598&adgroupid=67412219013&gclid=CjwKCAjw46CVBhB1EiwAgy6M4jY6E3ykfuhoOhN6oKbuzecL4CNMZZIqUQMphAC9xGpo0F8-rSkulxoC7o0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Pentair: www.poolsupplyunlimited.com/pool/pentair-ec-pncc0100oe1160-filter-system/68396p1?Bquery%7D&gclid=CjwKCAjw46CVBhB1EiwAgy6M4k0nxYNRIsFNjgxUOqf1ZKutVD7lJcWKegNx63a4TL7MzFP361_bGhoCBuAQAvD_BwE They're not cheap but I think they're worth it. But do your own research and see what you find.

It really depends on the pool and how bad the algae is. If it’s really bad, I’ll probably add possibly remover every other day but one of the best ways to tell if you have a lot of phosphates still is when you add the PR 10,000 if it turns cloudy that means that there’s still phosphates in the pool. But whatever I show in the video is pretty much how much I added. You just don’t wanna overdo it either.

It really depends on the pool and how bad the algae is. If it’s really bad, I’ll probably add possibly remover every other day but one of the best ways to tell if you have a lot of phosphates still is when you add the PR 10,000 if it turns cloudy that means that there’s still phosphates in the pool. But whatever I show in the video is pretty much how much I added. You just don’t wanna overdo it either.

did you have torn grids before you replaced them? If so did you keep backwashing and recharging the filter? If so you probably dumped a lot of DE into your pool and that's why the filter "clogs" up so quickly. Don't add any more DE til you get the DE in the pool out (it'll take some time). AND you'll have to backwash the filter probably every day until it's cleared up.

I'm sorry Erick, I don't really post my prices on this channel in any way, it's just a policy I have because it sets a "precedent" that may put other pool service people in an awkward position to either match it etc. AND the cost can vary depending on the city, state, country etc. Sorry I can't really divulge that.

Yes, it's just another algaecide that uses ammonium sulfate to kill (mainly) mustard algae. I stand on my dislike for algaecides including this one. I have a video coming out next Tuesday on the 6 things you can do to insure you never have a green pool (or a mustard algae pool). Until then please watch my video on algae and algaecides and why you don't need them (it pertains to all types of algae). Here's a link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MzGoK4Cd7tc.html

@@PoolSchooler I’ll watch with popcorn on my left hand and a Red Bull on my right hand.

😂😂😂😂

I was not aware of that. Thanks for the update. I’ll check into it.

@@PoolSchooler The Hasa rep was at my IPSSA meeting last week, and informed us of that. He said that there would be no change to the product.

@@carlc5748 I am relieved to hear that. It's my favorite phosphate remover and I'm glad they're not going to change it. Cause it works so well.

@@PoolSchooler PWP has their house brand, and it is packaged by Orenda, and it costs a little less. I just bought some yesterday.

@@carlc5748 I’ll look into that one. Thanks.

Absolutely. And by "high" what level are you looking at. If it's under 300ppm it's not high. Some Pool stores will try to tell you that 100ppm is "high" and that simply is not true.

@@PoolSchooler I just ordered the test strips you recommended so not sure. But been using Leslie tablets and chlorbrite for years so I'm assuming it's high. I ordered pr10000 too. So just getting things together to finally get rid of algae. Thank you so much for replying ☺️

@@user-ty3hg5kx3x and I’m assuming it was Leslies who told you your CYA was “high”. They are notorious for doing that and selling people a bunch of chemicals people don’t need and actually make.a chemical mess of pools.

@@PoolSchooler I stopped taking my water there a long time ago for that reason. I just have algae so bad I'm assuming but I could be wrong. Looking forward to getting my test kit.

@@user-ty3hg5kx3x have you seen my video on how to never have a green pool again? Heres a link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y4hac4beQsc.htmlfeature=shared it may be helpful.

I’ve never run into a problem with putting “too much“ phosphate remover in a pool. . But if it’s hot outside, you’re going to get evaporation, which means as the water evaporates so will some of the phosphate remover, and with fresh water being added, it should eventually dilute it, but it might take a little bit longer. What I would encourage, is to check the label of your particular phosphate remover to see if there are any warnings about it being unsafe in heavy concentrations. I always recommend people read the warning labels on any product they use in their pool, no matter what.

@@PoolSchooler I use the Orenda 10,000 phosphate remover product.

Can I use the phosphate remover once a month? If the answer is “yes”, does that mean I have to clean the filter the following day or just vacuum the following day.? I’m taking a lot of notes from you so I’m thankful that you have been responding back to me. Greatly appreciate it.

@@erickrhernandez1451 typically you can do a maintenance dose of phosphate remover every month. For a typical play pool 10 to 15,000 gallons I add anywhere between six or 8 ounces to keep the phosphates under control. Depending on how much vegetation and dust, etc. is around the pool. Usually in the situation you don’t have to backwash the filter the very next week. Just the usual.

@@erickrhernandez1451 You should be fine, it'll just stay cloudy a bit longer and take longer to dissipate. You may help it out by backwashing it weekly (if sand or DE)

I know a few people who love that product.

My mom (God rest her soul) pronounced it that way ever since I was little and it just sort of stuck. But you’ll notice in my more recent videos. I corrected myself and started pronouncing it correctly.

Sorry about that Louie. I know I do, unfortunately I'm trying to avoid confusion for y viewers. I'll try to limit how much I repeat.

@@PoolSchooler you’re good - it’s helpful for the novice

@@RexRaven22 Thank you Heidi. I'm so glad the videos on my channel are helpful. Hope you subscribed to my channel.