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Climbing Mount Everest K2 with David Roeske: Life in the Death Zones | Optimal 

Optimal with Ben Bowers
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David Roeske is the 5th American to climb both Everest and K2 without supplemental oxygen, and has also summited multiple other 8,000 meter peaks without the aid of bottled oxygen. He’s also a competitive runner, with a 2:32 personal record in the NYC marathon.
This episode is sponsored by:
SATIA: satia.com/ Live Better
Topics:
00:00 Intro
01:07 Summiting Everest twice / Once Without Oxygen
05:27 The feeling of being without oxygen for so long
07:24 The risks in climbing and summiting K2
14:29 Five minutes versus one hour at the top of Everest, without Oxygen
16:09 Climbing up vs climbing down
20:35 The competition to be the first American females to climb 14 8k meter peaks
28:08 Approach mountains with humility
28:55 Fueling your body for training to summit
34:34 The quality of foods on-mountain
35:52 How do you train for an 8000m summit in New York City?
41:25 How do you recover from a 8km summit?
50:24 The simplicity and release you get from the attention economy when there's no wifi
52:40 How do you see the future of climbing evolving? Social media clout?
57:31 The hardest question is why do you climb?
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Apple Podcasts: tinyurl.com/2s3rsy98
Spotify: tinyurl.com/yr2utuz2

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20 июн 2024

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Комментарии : 102   
@commoner3
@commoner3 Месяц назад
The guide he’s talking about regarding the 1996 Everest disaster was Rob Hall who was from New Zealand and spoke to his pregnant wife shortly before he died. Scott Fisher was the other guide who died.
@andreanguyen9926
@andreanguyen9926 28 дней назад
He totally loses me there. It was so interesting until that point 🤦🏻‍♀️🤦🏻‍♀️🤦🏻‍♀️
@socialitarobotica
@socialitarobotica 20 дней назад
Important corrections there.
@thesiobhanshow
@thesiobhanshow Месяц назад
David Roeske is a legend. His story is seriously incredible and I really love what he had to say about how mountain climbing highlights your character, do you help your fellow climbers in times of need or do you step over them. Valuable message to anyone listening wether they're a crazy climber or not!
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal Месяц назад
thank you for your feedback.
@vanzell1912
@vanzell1912 27 дней назад
Some High-Altitude climbers are in it for the experience- some for the notoriety-and some are just DEATH FREAKS. The experience oriented are a small minority.
@-alpenglow-
@-alpenglow- 5 дней назад
I appreciate the sober discussion of the risk. A climber myself in my youth, I understand the call of the mountains but I also lost my brother in a climbing accident. His loss was the major trauma of my life.40 years later, it still haunts me.
@LilyGazou
@LilyGazou 24 дня назад
I’m subscriber 464. Looking forward to more good interviews. Life -enhancing topics, no glitz, no ugly thumbnails, no AI.
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal 16 дней назад
totally noted! so happy you're here.
@spangol87
@spangol87 26 дней назад
What I can't wrap my head around is those who are parents doing it, as is said time and time again. If this is your thrill, and the only method getting that thrill, how do you still come to place it above not coming home to infants of kids or any age? You brought these guys onto your world but you've considered the high risk of death, and made peace with it? Despite people knowing what they're up against - acceptance, in those moments, the human's instinct to preserve their life surely kicks in and they think FUCK. In the case of parents, at the point they come to realise it's game over, how many do you think come to think of themselves as feckin eejits and wish they hadn't been so dogged in their pursuits?
@drirene57
@drirene57 26 дней назад
It’s truly unbelievable! It’s clearly about their ego. Good parents don’t take risks like that.
@user-yv8gx5vk7j
@user-yv8gx5vk7j Месяц назад
That was a joy to listen to. David Roeske's honest and sometimes moving narrative of the dangers and hazards of high-altitude mountaineering is easily the best interview I have seen on the subject. David talks about the less appealing and worrying aspects involved in what is rapidly becoming a tourist destination. Mount Everest!
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal 27 дней назад
Really appreciate this comment - David is such a legend and it was so interesting hearing this story (believe me he has so many more.)
@lorenzoostano2247
@lorenzoostano2247 25 дней назад
Reinhold Messner is actually Italian
@Vourn-75
@Vourn-75 28 дней назад
It makes no difference who you are or where you came from; if you died, nothing justifies it. K2 is one of those places on Earth where people simply don't belong.
@leraabercrombie2765
@leraabercrombie2765 26 дней назад
Great interview, had an absolute pleasure listening to David. One feedback would be for an interviewer - wouldn't hurt to be better prepared for another interview next time. Also, Reinhold Messner is Italian, not German or Swiss although he does speak German :) cheers
@mtb-mania
@mtb-mania 29 дней назад
337 Subscribers?! what?! This is the only interview I've sat through the full thing, hope this channel blows up. Will be following David :)
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal 16 дней назад
We do too! Share it with your friends and we're glad you're here.
@alexandrebellophoto3172
@alexandrebellophoto3172 Месяц назад
Legendary, my favourite pod so far! 🙌🏼
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal Месяц назад
thank you!
@aschoon01
@aschoon01 Месяц назад
What an amazing interview! Incredible to hear his story
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal Месяц назад
We completely agree. We have some incredible guests coming up so be sure to subscribe for more content just like this.
@BoboEverest
@BoboEverest 28 дней назад
What a coincidence had a bike called Everest when I was a kid. My uncle is still using... David really soft talker and his point of view is absolutely right. Great humble guy.
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal 27 дней назад
He's incredible and he has many many more stories - be sure to follow for more content just like this.
@BoboEverest
@BoboEverest 27 дней назад
@@BowersOptimal I will pay attention 😉
@kw8282
@kw8282 22 дня назад
Excellent interview 🎉
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal 21 день назад
Thank you for the support - if you haven't already, be sure to subscribe for more content just like this.
@Krumminn
@Krumminn Месяц назад
Great interview, thank you! 👏🏻
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal 27 дней назад
Thank you so much for your support - be sure to follow for more!
@MikeHunt-fo3ow
@MikeHunt-fo3ow 28 дней назад
i summited k2 on my unicorn and giggled the whole way
@Tschong0
@Tschong0 23 дня назад
"Reinhold Messner is from Germany, maybe Austria" he just killed my South Tyrolean heart
@raffaelecapuano4602
@raffaelecapuano4602 Месяц назад
great interview on one of my favorite themes , pleasure to watch this
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal Месяц назад
appreciate the feedback - be sure to subscribe for more content just like - and if you have a moment, please leave us a review on Apple Podcasts - thank you!
@DRFITNESSUSA
@DRFITNESSUSA Месяц назад
That's incredible ❤
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal Месяц назад
I completely agree with you.
@jimvick8397
@jimvick8397 24 дня назад
Hats off to the alpine purist and all like him...
@dand412
@dand412 27 дней назад
Guides names wasnt Scott Fischer it was Rob Hall,
@katherinechrist-janer5636
@katherinechrist-janer5636 25 дней назад
Yes.
@socialitarobotica
@socialitarobotica 20 дней назад
And he was from NZ not Australia. Mike Groom who was a surviving and supporting guide is Australian.
@stewartboyd3128
@stewartboyd3128 Месяц назад
I think you were talking about the movie touching the void with joe simpson, the crevasse thing
@leraabercrombie2765
@leraabercrombie2765 26 дней назад
great movie that one
@vassallj
@vassallj 27 дней назад
Excellent conversation. Good questions Ben. Understated. Like the way you are not the story and allow your guest to keep and elaborate on their answers in this forum. Have some feedback for you if there is a place I can leave it. Nicely done.
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal 24 дня назад
Thank you / email me ben@bowersoptimal.com
@beachbumgirl8041
@beachbumgirl8041 Месяц назад
Great job 👏 and congrats
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal 27 дней назад
Thank you for listening - be sure to subscribe for more content just like this!
@user-mf1gi5dt4e
@user-mf1gi5dt4e 9 дней назад
Green boots is paljor, an Indian soldier. I am sure he is climbing mountains in that valhalla where all warriors go...
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal 2 дня назад
Absolutely, Green Boots is indeed Tsewang Paljor, an Indian climber who became a legend. Here's to believing he's scaling the greatest peaks in Valhalla, alongside all the brave warriors! Love that!
@CYMotorsport
@CYMotorsport Месяц назад
But that’s an old statistic correct? The numbers have vastly shifted as more interest and enthusiasm spikes, as such more developed methods and logistics which have brought that number substantially down. It’s not to nit pick: but we might as well call out the accurate number especially when dramatically different. Otherwise what’s the point of using an outdated statistic that’s makes the climb more statistically deadly when it’s no longer correct?
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal Месяц назад
Hi - feel free to correct me - what’s the updated statistic? Thank you for your comment -
@1234sunnny
@1234sunnny Месяц назад
The statistic is deaths compared to successful summits (not attempted climbs). According to one source, K2 had 22 deaths For every 100 successful summits. Everest had three deaths per 100 summits.
@drirene57
@drirene57 26 дней назад
@@1234sunnny How many people attempt to summit compared to those who successfully summit?
@kevincowan1913
@kevincowan1913 28 дней назад
Did he fix his own ropes ? Cook his own food ? Make his own tea ? Because if it was Sherpa aided than whats the difference ?
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal 16 дней назад
This is answered within the interview, but we hope to bring Roeske back on where he can go into further detail.
@diegomata3624
@diegomata3624 28 дней назад
This 4:1 death ratio is outdated. Just in 2023, 112 summits were recorded and just one dead person.
@chrisburn1365
@chrisburn1365 24 дня назад
Yeah it's around 1:7 now rather than 1:4 , so very safe, don't know what the fuss is all about 😂
@thomasgilson6206
@thomasgilson6206 29 дней назад
Pretty sure Ben is talking about "Touching the Void" incident at 17:45
@cleanserene6330
@cleanserene6330 20 дней назад
Touching the Void was in South America not the Himalayas
@lafromtreemixent
@lafromtreemixent Месяц назад
Great
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal Месяц назад
appreciate the support
@onthursday1599
@onthursday1599 20 дней назад
ROB HALL! Are you kidding me?
@queenies805
@queenies805 27 дней назад
Why would anyone take these kinds of risks of death or long term health issues, is it just to satisfy the ego or what?
@LilyGazou
@LilyGazou 24 дня назад
To challenge oneself. And it’s compelling physically and mentally like surfing. The sharp focus. I liked training and learning the skills - but never went higher than Mount Rainier. Couldn’t afford the time and money for places like Everest even if I was skilled enough. I can’t imagine risking limbs, eyesight or life itself to do this though. Anatoli Boukreev said it’s supposed to be a sport. I took care of brain-damaged people and I wouldn’t want to risk my brain health for a sport. I do appreciate what I learned about my fellow humans and the third man factor. I enjoy reading about mountaineering while sticking to hiking in good weather. Maybe men like the brotherhood.
@dougshelby939
@dougshelby939 27 дней назад
Most expeditions to K2 intend to climb the Abruzzi spur route. Wonder if anyone will ever repeat the NE, and SE ridge routes..the magic line... God bless whoever tries.. the Polish route. Or maybe from the Chinese side, the North ridge route. That is going to require a solo climber, or maybe a pair... but no larger team.
@glendaknight9017
@glendaknight9017 3 дня назад
Very interesting to hear about his experiences. How do they prepare for the extreme cold? Just inhaling on a frosty morning in the UK can feel like your lungs are burnt! And please tell me what is the significance of the black rings and bracelets? Is it related to being a climber? Just one more thing. How old does he plan to be before he stops putting his life in danger. Does he foresee being a married man with responsibility for a family of is he going to set his sights on the next peak or next challenge until he can no longer climb?
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal 2 дня назад
Great questions! Cold Prep - It's all about training, layering up with the best gear, and mental toughness. Black Rings and Bracelets -They’re like badges of honor from past climbs or milestones. Thanks for the questions and for being part of the journey!
@gabrielvontroil1867
@gabrielvontroil1867 25 дней назад
he sounds like he would have gotten use of some oxygen
@LG-zy9dp
@LG-zy9dp 8 дней назад
Explain
@gabrielvontroil1867
@gabrielvontroil1867 8 дней назад
@@LG-zy9dp Don't agree with his assessment on the use of supplementary oxygen
@amapolo7211
@amapolo7211 26 дней назад
2023. Some 120 climbs, one dead. Statistics have changed
@Morcap
@Morcap 28 дней назад
This [ascending K2] is no short of playing Russian roulette; practically you don't have any control at anytime over any environmental element and, more so, you expose voluntarily to that. This is not climbing, it's a suicide mission with a lucky out attached to it; pretty much something along the lines "If I don't die on that peak, I got to live again.." Madness. Nonetheless. Thank you for sharing.
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal 27 дней назад
Thank you for listening - and thank you for this thought provoking comment. If you're not following us, join the community.
@radharaniaugustine9632
@radharaniaugustine9632 24 дня назад
rob hall
@freddyjisp3146
@freddyjisp3146 28 дней назад
If the risk did not exist then no one would participate. Wow, genius. Am I right?
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal 16 дней назад
check out today's new episode - if you like this, I think you're gonna love it!
@freddyjisp3146
@freddyjisp3146 14 дней назад
@@BowersOptimal Might be too risky bur I'll give it a shot!!!!
@OneMagicalMoment
@OneMagicalMoment 26 дней назад
What an amazing and humble guy ❤
@LG-zy9dp
@LG-zy9dp 8 дней назад
No he’s not.
@drirene57
@drirene57 26 дней назад
If he wants to operate on fat-burning for energy he should try the ketogenic diet.
@CaitiCat
@CaitiCat 22 дня назад
So I’m 23 minutes in and it’s shameful that he has blown off every question about the “sherpas” and “climbing partners” he had during his climbs. His stories are also very disjointed. He says he was on k2 and turned around from the summit to rescue someone on broad peak and then says the one time he did summit k2, he tried to climb but wasn’t ready and turned around at 8000m and then a couple weeks later he was successful. I’m very confused. Additionally, if you’re going to belittle the climbers who use oxygen because it’s not pure, I sure hope that you’re carrying your own packs, making your own meals, setting your own ropes, and hauling every piece of gear without assistance or Sherpa support because surely it isn’t the pure alpine experience with all of the assistance of modern expeditions. Particularly when you fail to acknowledge any assistants #saytheirname
@Mila_Brearey
@Mila_Brearey 19 дней назад
Why is it shameful that he didn't mention the sherpas ... his paid employees?! This is something that the sherpas bid on every year. They would rather earn 3-5x their usual yearly income in one month, than struggle for $1,400/year (average yearly Nepalese income). If something extraordinary happened during the climb, then he would have spoken about it and the appropriate person would have received credit. The more experienced sherpas, (Kami Rita, Lhakpa, Dhorje, NimsDai, etc) earn quite a bit more than the $5,000 per climb ... but, they are still paid to be there to do a job.
@LG-zy9dp
@LG-zy9dp 8 дней назад
The true mountaineers are the sherpas which by the way use OXYGEN and carry pounds of things on their backs! He can’t do that.
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal 2 дня назад
I hear you. It’s disappointing when questions about Sherpas and climbing partners are dodged-they’re crucial to these expeditions and deserve recognition. The mixed-up stories don’t help either. And if there’s criticism of climbers using oxygen, it’s only fair to also acknowledge the vital support from Sherpas and the use of modern expedition aids. Respect and honesty go a long way in these discussions.
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal 2 дня назад
While it’s true that Sherpas are paid and choose this work, acknowledging their contributions is still important. They play a crucial role in the success and safety of expeditions. Highlighting their efforts isn’t just about extraordinary events - it’s about giving credit where it’s due and respecting the essential support they provide.
@CaitiCat
@CaitiCat 2 дня назад
@@Mila_Brearey something extraordinary did happen. He made it back alive with the help of someone else supporting him every step of the way. Someone who has a name and deserves to be acknowledged. They barely make enough money to survive and it may be more than other people in the country make but it’s not equivalent to the work they do. They live in a corrupt country where they have to risk their lives to survive and their survival is the bare minimum. If they die, their families are left with nothing. Hundreds of them have died trying to get westerners to the top. They deserve acknowledgement. They carry the weight, beat the physical burden, and pave the route that hundreds use every year to get to the top. It’s about respect. You’re paying 100,000+ to climb to the top of the world on the backs of the Sherpa and porters who are making something like 1,500 to cater to your every need and keep you alive and they don’t deserve credit or acknowledgment because they’re making 1.5% of the cost of your expedition to get you there and back alive?
@lisaspencer1057
@lisaspencer1057 20 дней назад
I don’t understand why people look up to somebody who takes advantage of a Third World country and its population pay them a opinions to put their lives at risk and do 90% of the work for somebody like this to get all the credit? Why are you looking up to somebody who tries to kill himself and then says he’s living life his best or most optimal way? No you’re not. That’s trying to kill yourself. Is not living your most optimal way, why don’t you just appreciate life? I mean, I don’t care you do you but acting like this is like the way to live is so fucking ridiculous and just such a joke to me. People climb and Everest do very little of their own to get to the top. They do so much dangerous work going up and down the mountain upwards of 30 times to fix the ropes and attachments and then those are the people who are supposed to drag your ass down when and instead of you start dying on the mountain. They leave their trash all over these mountains because they’re too lazy to take their stuff with them once they reach their optimal time at the top of the mountain, and they pay the people who actually put their lives at risk almost to do so. They come on these podcasts and act like some big shit. It’s pathetic.
@AlexinOslo
@AlexinOslo Месяц назад
Why not try K2 drunk with Oxygen? Is that the same as climbing with no Oxygen?
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal Месяц назад
Roeske shares he wanted to climb K2 as "pure" as possible and really experience the mountains. I will ask him for you though! Be sure to subscribe for more content just like this.
@joanpascal7745
@joanpascal7745 4 дня назад
Interviews are you ready for i think not. Really misinformed.😮😮😮
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal 4 дня назад
thank you for your positive feedback! be sure to mark your comment and check back with us as we aim to become the number one podcast in NYC.
@thejass
@thejass Месяц назад
Awesome interview with the Brooklyn based legend 🏃🏁⛏️🏔️🙌
@BowersOptimal
@BowersOptimal Месяц назад
Thank you for the support and we completely agree! Be sure to follow for more.
@thejass
@thejass Месяц назад
Now subscribed 👊
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