Climbing Shoes For The Hardest Lake District Bouldering | Climbing Daily Ep.1162 

La Sportiva climbing shoes size = street size -2.0 to -2.5 (EU), and that's since 20 or more years. For soft slippers made of natural leather (Cobra, Python) an additional -0.5. Also Skwamas and the yellow Katana VCS the same additional -0.5. Skwamas I tried on myself, too big for me, even when 42 (my La Sportiva size is 42,5 with a street size of 44.5 to 45). Too big, too wide, too much high volume, too deep and high volume heel (the same shit like the Solutions). But yes, comfy! My feet are medium width ( i think), low instep (so putting on slippers is quite easy), with a low volume or just little heel. Therefore, I have to fit all La Sportiva climbing shoes super tight, because the heel is always too big! Dunno what fat feet the italien climbing shoes designer have... Shoes where the heel ist ok: Katana Laces, Scarpa Boostic. Also Miura VS is ok. Good for me is FiveTen HiAngle (2016 grey/aqua) in UK 10 / EU 44.5. And the old FiveTen Dragon in UK 10.5/11. Nice heel on those Dragons. Blackwings are NOT the same shoe but with velcros instead of laces, no, they have a different fit, fit even smaller than dragons und the heel is different, deeper, like the 5.10 Teams.

Yes and no. I really think the _fit_ between shoes can vary a lot. I don't care so much for the particular properties of the shoes, but the fit must be key.

I just have one comfy pair and one not so comfy pair, i then decide whether its a comfy climb or a not so comfy climb haha

I agree that fit is the most important but there are other factors. Soft rubber like grip2 or HF don't edge well on hot granite or when it's 35 degrees. XS Edge has noticably less friction on indoor walls. As a comp climber I need really soft shoes and rubber for comps. But when I'm edging on granite crystal, I need XS Edge + stiffness. And yes, the difference is very noticeable.

I actually use three pairs. Old katanas for warm ups, sportiva futura for smearing and overhangs, scarpa boostics for small ledges.

That depends on what you like, bouldering shoes tend to be more aggressive and sometimes softer... if you climb long routes in soft aggresive shoes, your feet might get really tired and start hurting after a few meters. There are more supportive aggresive bouldering shoes like the solutions or the instincts which i find are a good option if you want to have the same shoe for bouldering and top rope. In the end it all comes down to your personal taste.

Bwolften darude - sandstorm