No video :(

Climbing Training Intensity: The RPE Method

Подписаться 165 тыс.

Просмотров 24 тыс.

50% 1

THE 1-10 RPE SCALE EXPLAINED!
We often use a simple 1-10 scale with our clients to help explain a desired level of training effort. Whilst it's not the only solution to getting your training session just right, it is a really powerful tool when used correctly. On the surface, it looks like a really basic measure and you can end up thinking that it's way too generic. However, we often see climbing sessions being completed at the wrong intensity if this simple scale is misinterpretted. This video aims to provide some basic guidance on how to adapt your training based on the desired perception of effort in any climbing specific workout.
In today's video, Ollie runs through some basics on how to use a 1-10 RPE scale and what to watch out for. We've placed a scale below for reference!
1 - No effort at all
3 - Easy aerocap and active mobility
5 - Bouldering mileage, below flash level and mixed intensity aerocap. Don’t make this too hard!
7 - Flash boulder grade. Having some extra moves left in the tank. If doing a dead hang for 7 seconds, you want to have about 3 seconds of effort left on each rep.
8 - Most strength elements of training at this level. Failure may occur at the end of the last sets of workouts. So you may fall off the end of climbs on your last go.
9 - Max training effort. Project bouldering and on-sighting at your limit during a training phase.
10 - Testing and top performance effort
Enjoy!
Intro: (0:00)
What is RPE?: (0:18)
What are the benefits?: (0:48)
RPE Scale breakdown: (2:20)
Outro: (11:30)
Find out more about our Lattice Training Plans here: latticetrainin...
Download the Crimpd App:
App store - itunes.apple.c...
Google Play - play.google.co...

Опубликовано:

14 авг 2024

Ссылка:

Скачать:

Готовим ссылку...

Добавить в:

Мой плейлист

Посмотреть позже

Комментарии : 48

@frederik0014 3 года назад

Love the final statement: It's real easy to go to hard.. This guy really understands climbers!

@jacoboblanco1555 3 года назад

Coming from powerlifting and bodybuilding where RPE is a standard, I was curious about how to apply it to climbing. Looking forward to watching the video.

@jonathaningram877 3 года назад

"10 our of 10 increases your risk for injury." Good advice! Dial it back a notch. I used to boulder on the Tension board until I couldn't hold onto the wall any longer, then do 3 sets of pullups, pushups and core to failure. Then about 10 weeks ago I developed a severe and painful neck spasm that persists for days to weeks whenever I try to climb. I can't climb at all right now, and I'm afriad of losing it forever. I'm going to try to rest completely for 6 weeks, then try to easy myself back in slow, maybe stay around a 3-5 on the scale for a couple of months. Hopefully that will work!

@mikeyeveritt1481 3 года назад

Thanks for the video, I've been watching the channel for quite a while now and have found them extremely beneficial (I'm still relatively new to climbing). It's good to understand what RPE means and how it correlates to a workout as I've heard it referenced quite a lot recently, however what would be even more useful would be to understand how to implement it within a training programme. For example: "a good workout plan would include 2x 8RPE Strength sessions per week, in addition to 1x 9RPE FB session, and 2x 7RPE FB sessions, 1x Aero Cap session....". Not sure if that makes sense, but I hope it does. If so, I'm not sure you'll be able to respond in these comments but maybe it might be useful to include on a separate workout plan video. Thank you again for all of the content: the Q&As, workout plans, example training sessions have helped throughout lockdown!

@ascensionistclimbing8498 3 года назад

Extremely useful and important information stated in this video, kudos Ollie for putting it across so well 👏

@leoingson 3 года назад

It would be nice to have a follow up on applied intensities to typical training weeks.

@patrickkronenberger564 3 года назад

Streching is more like a ten for me...

@alexgalays910 3 года назад

Pushing the range of motion of the side split is juste pure torture lol

@CourtneyWarren 3 года назад

This is such a great and informative video that will really help my training! thank you

@ethanbanich103 Год назад

Here is my big question- If solid gains are to be found with training around 7 and 8 on the RPE scale, how does rest and fatigue dictate our training? For example, I was fresh yesterday and trained at 7 and 8 RPE. Today I have lingering fatigue. Is it more beneficial for me to rest and recover today so I can train tomorrow at the SAME intensity as yesterday, or should I train today at 70% and 80% of my CURRENT maximum effort?

@LoveAndClimbing 3 года назад

Is there some max RPE level that might be allowed for a rest day? I.e. if someone who climbs 5.13 sport wants to play around on 5.7 trad on their rest day, what RPE might they consider allowable to avoid ruining their rest day?

@DominikNal 3 года назад

Another very informative video!

@kiliannotzold4473 3 года назад

I always struggle with max power. You described the nicely feeling after power endurance training but how should be the feeling after a max power session? For example, if I complete a classic Fingerboard max hangs @ 90% session the feeling in my arms is like I have done nothing.

@LatticeTraining 3 года назад

Hey Kilian great question. Max strength and power training requires such a high intensity and effort level, we cannot train this at a high volume. This means the total hanging time in a session is low and the resulting perception of fatigue isn't high. But this doesn't mean we could continue at this intensity which is why the session length of max power session is short. So I would therefore suggest using an effort level per hang. If you feel each hang is super easy then the effort is too low. A 90% max hang session should mean each hang (10 seconds) should be close to a maximal effort. I would suggest that you would be able to complete all the sets but feel close to failing, particularly on the last few sets of the session. Additionally, as the forearm muscles are small, fingerboarding doesn't give us a large feeling of fatigue compared to working bigger muscles. I hope that helps!

@kiliannotzold4473 3 года назад

@@LatticeTraining Yes, thanks that helped a lot. In this case I have the right load for fingerboard training. Hopefully I will be able to dial this in for bouldering where I find it much more difficult. Typically, I can repeat a boulder many times or can’t climb it at all. So, for me it is really difficult to find a training boulder suitable strength and power.

@alexgalays910 3 года назад

Many people would tell me that if I just spend a whole session post warmup doing a lot of flash-level boulders, I'm not really improving/training strength. Interesting. What about a pyramide though? Since it's quite unlikely you can do 9/10 for a whole session. could do 3/4 intensity (but quite a bit of it for mileage/warming up) then quickly go through 5/6/7, then peak for 1-3 boulders at 9 but before being completely exhausted, go back down again, at least to your flash level. Would that kind of training template work if you only ever did that?

@joeyoest1105 4 месяца назад

Wait - there’s an RPE below 9??? My ‘easy’ is going til I fall off the wall and ‘moderate’ is going till I fall off the wall, let my HR recover a bit, then go again til I fall off the wall, and repeat a few times. I’m not strong enough to go ‘hard’. Kind of kidding, but also kind of not. I really need to take the advice in this video to heart!

@stevimoultrie2344 3 года назад

I'm a new climber (1 year in) and i'm working on figuring out what training looks like for me. Can you explain what you mean by "stimulus" in climbing and training? thanks!

@jrisner6535 3 года назад

Really useful thank you

@alimcmellon7130 2 года назад

Can you hangboard and do endurance in the same sesh?

@razmar1993 3 года назад

For simplicity, when doing 90% max hangs, instead of adding weight I use to "pull as hard as I can" with one hand, in order to last the required time. This video makes me think that I'm doing it wrong because it might be close to 10 in the scale. What are your thoughts on that? Would really appreciate to know. Cheers

@aladeenmadafaka6286 3 года назад

If you use 1 hand, its good to stand on a weight to see, how much (kg/lb) you pull. By standing on weight, you can test yourself how much kilograms you can pull with one hand for 3-5s = your maximum, and than easily calculate 90%, 80%, ... and train what you need.

@emildohse735 3 года назад

According to this scale I warm up at RPE 8 and train exclusively at 9 to 10.... Hmmm

@alexgalays910 3 года назад

I've always read that this is the way to go to make the most out of a session :( like limit bouldering but for a fairly short duration.

@emildohse735 3 года назад

@@alexgalays910 that's what I'm doing for this past lockdown year😅 short session on hard boulders on home board, and so far it works out great, but I need 1 or more often 2 rest days after because I finish with max weight pull ups and so on as well😅

@TheMysticalNinja65 3 года назад

Whats a warm up lmao? I climb at rpe 9 - 10 exclusively

@brunoprates862 3 года назад

This might work in the first few years, or when you are very young. But if you keep doing that, it is very, very likely that you will injury yourself at some point, and might need to take months, or even years, to go back to your previous level. And some people never do. I know you want to give everything every single time. I've been there as well. Luckly, I never got a bad injury, but so many of my climbing friends did over the years. This made me study it a little deeper and realise the secret to climbing high grades (5.13>) is: training smart and consistently and don't getting injuried.

@brimroth5238 3 года назад

Alright I appreciate the thoughts on the RPE scale. However it's also a scale used in the gym amd there it usually is measured by reps left in the tank. rpe 0 being 10 left in the tank, which usually would be pretty hard to measure, but woth the rule that strength endurance would take place at rpe1-3 with over 12 reps and short breaks. This completely violates those already established rules for the RPE scale. This is not to say you aren't making sense in terms of training programming, just that you're trying to alter a term that is already in use with the general strength world, thus making for potential misunderstandings between sports.

@TesterAnimal1 3 года назад

Also used in aerobic sports like cycling as an analogue for heart rate/power output. In that context it goes up to 20.

@LatticeTraining 3 года назад

Fortunately we work exclusively within climbing so we use our scales as we wish :-)

@goosjer 3 года назад

Brimroth I am sorry to say this, but RPE was not invented primarily for strength training. In fact, Borg Rating of Perceived Exertion was invented with the purpose to measure effort and exertion. Borg, the inventor, primarily used it to monitor aerobic exercise. The original scale goes from 6-20 and is designed to match your heartrate. So it was nog invented for strength/resistance training. Your claim that it came from the “strength world” is therefore completely wrong and smells like broscience.

@LatticeTraining 3 года назад

@@goosjer I understand our use of the tradition RPE scale is not valid here and did not mean to act in this way. Many climbers use a 1-10 scale in order to determine effort levels. This video hopes to help people understand this scale in their personal practices. This is not designed for academic studies which would benefit from a more rigorous system.

@largeformatlandscape 3 года назад

@@goosjer Borg was originally inspired by throwing events (as documented in his book) and he himself says that it's been adapted for strength, pain, sound, etc. It also has a CR10 adaption which works from a 0-10 scale (0 being nothing so irrelevant). I don't think using it for strength or with a 1-10 scale is broscience....

@Mylada 3 года назад

At 4:40 I think you are incorrect. When talking about weights RPE 5 would be 5 reps from failure. RPE 10 would be max effort, could not add weight nor a rep. If you shoulder press 20kg dumbbells for 10, 10kg x 10 would be 50% intensity, not 5 RPE (probably below 0 RPE in this case). 5x20kg is 5 RPE. This is already well established measure in bodybuilding, powerlifting and weightlifting with a very specific meaning.

@LatticeTraining 3 года назад

Hey Sokrates, Thanks for the input. I agree that reps left are a useful method to interpret RPE and I believe I referenced this later in the video. Though useful, this is a little harder with dead hang time remaining. However, I do disagree that 10x10kg would be less than 0 RPE. I actually think that for those new to weight lifting and less experienced training athletes, 50% effort and 5/10 RPE can often equate to half the load but with the same volume. This method has worked nicely for many athletes we have worked with so wanted to keep it in there. However, I am happy to admit my experience training specialised body builders and weight lifters is limited as I have only worked with athletes specialised in other sports where weight lifting a supplementary training exercise. So am I happy to go away learn more and transfer any practices that seem useful that I don't currently have any knowledge on :)

@largeformatlandscape 3 года назад

Various research has shown that the correlation between %max effort and RPE is not statistically significant even if it's sometimes used as a simple guideline

@Mylada 3 года назад

@@LatticeTraining The meaning changes depending on the context, that is just how RPE is almost always used in the gym. It is very hard to apply RPE or intensity in hangs or climbing. Consistency is what matters after all. Halving the weight almost never equates to halving the RPE (if that is measured by reps in reserve). e.g. I can deadlift 10x140kg and can probably do more than 50x70kg.

@Mylada 3 года назад

@@largeformatlandscape What does that even mean? The correlation is not significant because % of max-effort is a different measure. You can do a 50x20kg bench and its RPE 10, but it is still 20% intensity if you bench 100kg.

@largeformatlandscape 3 года назад

@@Mylada In correlating strength it's different. You're comparing two separate things if you're looking at high intensity low duration vs low intensity high duration. Just read the latter sections of Borg's book whee he divides it's application into different types of activity. I can dig out the reference to the correlation paper if you want. I also thing you're talking about RIR (reps in reserve) in your original comment - people might use the two similarly but I'm sure the don't correlate in all cases.

@thiagohitz8657 3 года назад

Woo! First!!

@nickemery3101 3 года назад

No RPE is not RATE. Sorry Ollie but rate is a descriptor of speed, e.g the rate of the trains speed. The R in RPE is a subjective measure of effort and is therefore a 'rating'; a persons experience of effort described either from 6-20 (the original RPE scale as proposed by Borg) or from 1-10 used more as a measure of effort when in a gym based setting. The word descriptors which accompany the RPE scale are often more easy to follow than the numerical scale and so should be used in conjunction.

@LatticeTraining 3 года назад

Hey Nick, Thanks for the input. I would first say the use of Rate instead of Rating is not a bad use of the word and is something I won't worry about too much as I hope most people will get my intention :) . (verb: assign a standard or value to (something) according to a particular scale.) I understand the concerns regarding not using the Borg scale (6-20) as this is what I have used in studies in the past and is far more thorough. My attempt in this video was to provide words or feelings to the numerical scale using climbing specific examples. We often hear clients saying how something felt out of 10 and coaches asking for the athletes perception of effort out of 10. I thought the use of 1-10 would be far more manageable to grasp and applicable to the general audience. I hope that helps explain my thoughts in the video. I do always appreciate hearing others opinions on this though, as it's easy for us to get caught in a bubble with trying to explain our training methods to a wider audience.

@largeformatlandscape 3 года назад

The Borg scale already has a 0-10 version Mentioned in this paper Borg CR-10 Scale -> www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5901652/

@largeformatlandscape 3 года назад

@@LatticeTraining www.researchgate.net/profile/Gunnar_Borg/publication/306039034_Borg's_Perceived_Exertion_And_Pain_Scales/links/57ac4a9b08ae7a6420c2b7ff/Borgs-Perceived-Exertion-And-Pain-Scales.pdf

@nickemery3101 3 года назад

@@LatticeTraining Thanks for replying Ollie. What I said regarding the terminology is bordering semantics but as my dissertation was on RPE and my supervisor drilled in to me the importance of the use of rating rather than rate. Yes I agree the use of a subjective scale is very useful in determining intensity, I do however fell the use the the word descriptors can be more meaningful to 'fix' the perceived intensity. I really like RPE as a determinant of intensity as it applies to when we feel 'good' or not 'so good'. On a different note really enjoy the training videos they are a wealth of information. Cheers