THE 1-10 RPE SCALE EXPLAINED!
We often use a simple 1-10 scale with our clients to help explain a desired level of training effort. Whilst it's not the only solution to getting your training session just right, it is a really powerful tool when used correctly. On the surface, it looks like a really basic measure and you can end up thinking that it's way too generic. However, we often see climbing sessions being completed at the wrong intensity if this simple scale is misinterpretted. This video aims to provide some basic guidance on how to adapt your training based on the desired perception of effort in any climbing specific workout.
In today's video, Ollie runs through some basics on how to use a 1-10 RPE scale and what to watch out for. We've placed a scale below for reference!
1 - No effort at all
3 - Easy aerocap and active mobility
5 - Bouldering mileage, below flash level and mixed intensity aerocap. Don’t make this too hard!
7 - Flash boulder grade. Having some extra moves left in the tank. If doing a dead hang for 7 seconds, you want to have about 3 seconds of effort left on each rep.
8 - Most strength elements of training at this level. Failure may occur at the end of the last sets of workouts. So you may fall off the end of climbs on your last go.
9 - Max training effort. Project bouldering and on-sighting at your limit during a training phase.
10 - Testing and top performance effort
Enjoy!
Intro: (0:00)
What is RPE?: (0:18)
What are the benefits?: (0:48)
RPE Scale breakdown: (2:20)
Outro: (11:30)
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14 авг 2024