01:45 Question 1: Which is better,multiple shortsessions, or one long one? 10:15 Question 2: What's the best way to manage workload throughout the week? 14:40 Question 3: What's the best order to perform your sessions in?
Climber and Boulderer. Female, 22, been climbing for 2 years. Closing in on a 7a lead climb this spring. I'd love to have you planning my training week!
...I have this ligament rupture in my foot since 2 weeks and was basically forced to turn my training plan upside down as I cant climb (or just onelegged) for the next months. It feels like it is working and making sense, but I would be more than overjoyed to have your experience and knowledge flow into it. So yes, I want my training week planned out! Also, keep up your great work, I appreciate that you are adressing so many questions of the community (especially the fb-group) in such a... cool objective way. Your content is the best climbing content on youtube. :)
I’d love to have my week planned out!! Transitioning from the competitive bouldering to competitive lead season at the moment; had Open Bouldering Nationals a couple weeks ago, and the first ranked lead comp of the circuit is in about 5 weeks! 😊 Thanks for posting these videos! You guys are such a great resource, especially for folks without coaches such as myself 🙌💕 Cheers 🍻
Thanks for the video and videos: Currently thinking to do fingerboard on tuesday morning. Go to gym on Tuesday after work. Climb on Wednesday evening after work with friends. Go to either gym or football on Thursday. Have rest days on Monday and Fridays. Have free days on sat and sun to either climb, hike, gym, slackline etc.
I would like to have my training week planned! I have a very very high workload capacity so just drill me as hard as you possibly could! Thank you so much!
Absolutely. 48 y/o. Going on 8 years climbing. Lot's of time spent in Yosemite and have done most of the old school valley 9s and some classic 10s. Getting ready for trips to Red Rocks and Yosemite having moved further away. Have plan in place but would love to have evaluation. Working on balancing workout intensity with rest as I recently gave myself a minor bicep tendonitis (self treated and now completely recovered). Have a very flexible schedule.
“I want my training week planned out.” Since I do multiple sports I would like some help planning my training. Thanks in advance for all the great suggestions in the video.
I’m sure I’m in the same boat with most people and just do 2-3 hour sessions after work. Personally I look at sections of 8 days and try to do 3 days bouldering, one hangboard session and one endurance/lead session (3 total rest days), but I listen to my body and sometimes do more or less. Love your guys’ videos!
My training week is a little weird. I just started a month ago and im jobless with no life so I just spend my day without a buddy to belay me in the bouldering room. My plan is basically, -Day 1: Work on current boulder problem and push myself on what I personally find to be my hardest overhang routes (not grade but my personal weaknesses) for strength training. -Day 2: recover by doing routes that focus on balance and footwork while focusing on footwork and technique (No overhangs) -repeat the past 2 steps while fitting in a day of top rope when ever the 2 auto belay wall routes get changed
I have 3 days available from 10am-2pm Tues, Thurs and Sat. For efficiency sake fitting all conditioning in those hours like a bodybuilder does full body splits/workouts is the best with this available time. This keeps reps and intensity to optimal levels to prevent overtraining making sure you're taking muscle, tendan and skin repair into account. There's always a point of diminished returns doing too much work over the course of a week. Thanks for your informative content, looking forward to seeing some more Sports science.
Hey, I have two questions for you. This might be hard to answer without a lot of background info, but I'm asking as a 5.10/5.11 sport/trad climber. 1. Training/climbing four days a week, (2 on 1 off-ish), what is the best way to structure a week? Hard vs. easy days, bouldering/rope etc. 2. For someone who only climbs outdoors during summer, how would you structure the 9-month period of indoor training to best prepare for the outdoor summer season? Im curious about the big lines. Lot of volume in fall, more power towards summer?
I' ve watched plenty of your videos over the past few days and already got so much knowledge out of it... having my training week planned out by you would be beyond awsome! :D
I'm actually one of the head routesetters of a local climbing gym (it's basically two stories of bouldering and a small high wall inside a barn), but I can only do 6c+. We don't get too many super strong climbers, so not being able to climb/set harder than 6c+ is not an absolute catastrophe, but I would still like to get stronger, so that I can improve my climbing and setting for our climbers! Thus, it would be awesome to get guidance from you in planning out my training week.
I would LOVE to have my climbing week planned by you guys, and thanks for the fantastic videos. I usually train for around 3 hours per day, and have been trying 3 days on and 1 day off for a couple months with mixed results. One thing I already plan to change based on the video is to move my finger work closer to the beginning. I’ve been doing it at the end!!!
I want my training week planned out! :) Been bouldering for 2 years mostly indoor small gym in Iceland. I've done a few V5s and literallt hundreds of V4s. No children, sedentary desk job 9-5, 2-3 days of climbing/week along with some brazilian jiu jitsu. 29 years old, 186cm, 83 kg male.
I want my training week planned out! I have a very minimal amount of time. Have just gotten back into climbing so starting from scratch. But I used to participate at an elite level in another sport.
I'd like to have my training sessions planned out. I'm a 9-5'er all week with flexible evenings and weekends. I just started my first dedicated training for anything since childhood and my current training plan is to spend the next few months working towards a basic level of climbing fitness to feel comfortable travelling up for a basic lattice assessment in the spring (: I recently returned to climbing after a gap of around two decades(!), and - beyond the physical changes - I've noticed that the activity of climbing and structure around training has sparked a fundamental ground-shift in mood and my overall approach to challenges in life. So thanks for what is hands down the most comprehensive, best structured climbing training conversations on the internet. Hopefully see you at the assessment centre (:
I'd like to have my training week planned out, don't work too much and onto training multiple times a day most days so knowing what is best to do would be amazing!
I'd love to have you planning my training week! Would be interesting to see, what a scientific approach does better than me just "feeling" what seems to be the best!
I live in land of trad where it rains all the time and the nearest gym is 1hr 30mins away so I'd definetly love to have some gems of knowledge dropped on my training schedule
Really great tips! I often end up doing about 2/3 hour sessions about 3 maybe 4 times a week. I like the idea of switching up styles and what you're exposing yourself to while training, depending on what you want to achieve. My weakness is definitely endurance, doing big moves while fatigued.
I'd love to have my training week planned out too! I feel like this is the hardest thing for me to nail down with my schedule. In this video, the rules of thumb regarding how to order the different types of training help greatly! Thanks again, guys!
I'd love to have my training week planned out! Climbing since 1,5 years on an average of 3 - 4 days per week. Mainly indoor, boulder in the week and a long lead session on the weekend. I'm currently unemployed so I could hit the gym pretty often. I have no actual training at the moment but i'm really keen to incorporate a proper schedule to see some good results. On outdoor lead climbing I recently started climbing 6C / 6C+ (5.11a/b), while indoor boulder and moon board i'm on 6A+ / 6B (V3-V4). Thank you so much for your tips and the great content!
I would love to have my training planned out!!! Currently have a trip to Albarracin in April and i've identified some weaknesses that needs a training plan to help improve them
Thanks for the great content. I've recently redesigned my training schedule and I'd love to have you guys show me how I might do it differently/better.
Would absolutely love to hear how you'd plan my training week! After having a kid (2 years old now), working hard towards my first 7a with a self-written training schedule. Really curious if and how I can optimise my week. Also: These videos are so useful, thank you guys!
hey guys, thanks a lot for putting out training content. Question: Do i have to adress the three energie-systems every week? Like 1 max.str.session(5-10 sec. hangs), 1 endurance(easy but many moves without rest), 1 power(campussing i guess?). Thanks for helping us become better climbers! :))
PLEASE I am so motivated for training and want to bring my climbing to the next level, I would be honored to have you plan my training schedule, the key is discipline and structure which I want more in my training.
I would love to have my training week planned. I am a weight lifter and lift in the mornings 4x a week. I climb at night 2x a week for 2.5-3 hours and just started bouldering. I am working on accomplishing a v3 after 2 weeks of bouldering
I'd want my training week planned out. I am bouldering around 8A/A+ level and I have 2 small kids and a full time job. I am psyched to be better in bouldering! :)
Thanks for the tips, programming / structuring has been my main question lately as I have a lot of time to train and just had surgery on my achilles so real climbing is out of the question. I'd love to have a training week planned if you have time!
I would looove to have my week planned out. Especially because I have multi sport goals, though I'm focusing mostly on climbing, and I'm fairly limited in the equipment I can use for my climbing training.
I’d love to have you planning my training week!! I want to start having better results in climbing comps! Going to compete on Brazil nationals this year! 💪
I'd love to have my training week planned out 😁 I currently boulder, consistently V3, red pointing V4 - my PR is 6b+. I'd love to be able to boulder 7a, but struggle as my nearest climbing gym is 1hr away 😢
Not sure if I am too late to the party, but if possible I'd love to have my training week planned out. Currently training hard for the spring climbing season!
I've been making things up as I go along. I have been improving but I feel like I could maybe get even more out of my training if it was more structured. I have been meaning to see you for a full assessment but it's difficult as I work Mon-Fri. I'd love to have my training week planned though! Nice one :)
I would love to have my training week planned out! Currently training 3-5 days/week, fitting it in around a fairly flexible fulltime job-schedule, and two kids 3/5yo. Spring goal 7c boulder.
Would be great to get my training week planned out. I have the best intentions and many a false start. I'm wanting to establish myself as a consistent v6 climber, but after some improvements often find myself falling behind again
I’d love to have my training planned out! Calisthenics enthusiast for years, transitioning to bouldering, I've put together a plan and followed most of your previous videos tips, but would love a review/help from the legends themselves! 😍
I would absolutely love having my training week planned out! Im a student so basically I have time, however im just starting out as a climber (V4 - V5).
Wow, I'd love you planing my training week! Eventhough climbing is the only thing keeping me sane while doing my PhD I'm having a lot of trouble fitting training with flexible work schedule.
I'd love to get a week plan! I long to get into try hard mode (realized, that I dabbled in the comfort zone for too long), but I struggle to ramp it up, probably work capacity / base fitness related. I'm mostly route-climber, have got a fixed "quality route-partner tuesday", and love to climb outdoors on weekends (if weather permits). I have loads of time / planning freedom, but prefer compact sessions within the week. I was able to ramp up route volume by 50%, but intensity is another beast ..
I’d absolutely love to have my weekly training planned out by you guys. It would be so helpful and interesting, especially since I have EYCs coming up this year!
I would love to have my traning week planned out! I routeset twice a week, and have been struggling with finding the right balance with training on the side, as I'll always be a little fatigued from setting, but it still doesn't feel like a proper session. On the other hand, I sometimes train 3-4 hours after work, which is propably way too much