In my similar repair-causes-noise case, the noise was caused a defective brake job that forgot to install the brake caliper springs. The calipers were loose and were rattling against the rotors which made a severe noise. The brake tech said could not see a defect and I would have to replace the front-end one component at a time until the noise stopped. Instead, I took it to a different shop which looked at everything including the brakes spotted empty holes where the caliper springs should be. So, the brake tech caused the problem, wanted to cure it by replacing the front end, and did replace a couple of control arms. LESSON: inspect all recent work when looking for new car noises.
Check all the fasteners on all the parts you have removed and/or replaced immediately after the install, the next day and a couple times within the next week or two. I replaced all 4 of my end links and had to re-tighten them every other day for two weeks before I decided to put a jam nut on all of them and no problems since. Also, for some reason the brake caliper bolts seem to get overlooked when reassembling... Hand tightened but not torqued
That's exactly the same case scenario for me. Slow speeds and over bumps i hear it because it's not loud enough to hear over higher speeds. No shaking or vibration coming from the steering wheel and control is not problem. Just that loose sound. Im gonna change the control arms anyway and control link. That should be good for a 100k miles.
Hey I have the same problem like you have before. I drive slowly in bumper so I hear it deep knuck not loud but it is. I dont check yet but sounds the same like your. Mitsubishi asx 2017. Thx for your comment
OK I'm gonna double check the swaybar end link - on the TrailBlazer! just got now struts/shocks - same clunking noise going slow speeds over bumps. Annoying!!
Oh man hopefully this is my problem and not nothing serious to fix. It just started to happen on my passenger sides only when I do right turns depending on the elevation of the road full lock turns while driving & reverse it clunks clunks then sometimes it doesn’t. You can definitely hear the spring clink too
@@TheSnyds Same issue. In my case I had to remove the old sway bar on the passenger side. To remove the bold I had to drill through it. I got it out, but I over did it and cut around the hole where the bolt goes in. I think the new bolt may be moving around causing a clunking sound that started after a few days of driving.
@@TheSnydstook off the a few weeks ago and my suspension end link came off and got bent from turns on the axel so scary but luckily it was a easy fix. Probably would’ve been $500 for a $30 job. My homie is a manger at auto zone and he happened to have the part I needed since my nearest auto zone didn’t have it so I as able to pick it up and swap it next day.
No shit, that's the best case scenario for a unknown clunk etc 😂. Best thing ever when it's something simple and doesn't cost you anything to fix haha. Might be worth investing in a paint pen though? I've always used them so my gold fish brain knows I've "torqued" everything up when double checking at the end 😜.
You also need to have the car s weight on all 4 wheels before tightening down the links or u wont get the benefit of the sway bar. I. Fact the bolt might cone loose again.
You inspired me to get a lexus. I recent brought a 02 Lexus Lx470 with only 140k. There are a few problems I need to get second opinion on the cause. 1. The car makes a cluck sound as it decelerates. It up shifts very smooth. Trans fluid looks good (darkred). What do you think the cause is? 2. This might be related to issue 1, when shifting between R to D there is a massive cluck or a kick. Your input on what the issues maybe will he greatly appreciated.
I Agree with KC. A 2002 Lexus is going to have seriously perished Rubber! Your engine, gearbox and rear differential sit on mounting points which are cradled in rubber. Once the rubber crumbles away the mounting points won't completely separate; that is your engine or transmission components won't actually fall- off the vehicle BUT the two metal fixings which were once separated by a half-inch of rubber will knock against each other. Inside the vehicle this will be felt and heard as a thud. Differential mounts will thud when you change between D & R or when taking your foot off the Gas. It's not easy to test these bushings, the car needs to be on a lift and the mechanic would show you the problematic, excess play using a large pry-bar. Google Lx470 rear diff mounts and check out the images. Here is a forum post of some guy doing the Job himself, looks tricky forum.ih8mud.com/threads/front-diff-mount-change-superpro-bushing-review.1056680/
I had a similar issue and the culprit were the bearings (for rear drive pinion rear) and spacer in the rear differential and the yoke sub ASSY for the rear shaft, took me over a year to come to this conclusion
Bro ,not f Going to fucking believe it, after so many videos, yours led me to my error lmao, I left it loose😂😂😂😂 I was already asking for a refund for the links
So is this a common Lancer issue? Mine is doing the same clunking sound and I thought it could be the tie rod but I replaced it and the annoying sound is still there lol
Just remember bro. There’s people in this world that get towed n they end up just being outta gas. Shit happens. I’ve put a transfer case in a blazer 3 times cuz I couldn’t get it to seal. Lol shit definitely happens
