Just purchased a cobra class 4 from Springfield leather and it's an amazing machine. So much different than my old Adler. Thanx for the video. I'm sure I'll have to watch it a few times,but Thanx for your time. Blessings on ya.
Absolutely informative and one of the best.. Found it tricky to pull the three out after stitching, Loosening thread above the tensioner works well - and new technique learned. Yes, moving the belt wheel back and forth with the needle in the highest position always.
Hi Chris, nice job on the instruction. Very clear instructions. One thought I had on the stitch length and the numbers on the bezel plate. Went downstairs and tested my theory. the numbers MAY mean the length of the stitch in mm. eg. the 11 got me a stitch around 10mm long. And the 8 setting got me a stitch around 6mm. Just a thought.
In order to be consistent on my stitching, I too a piece of leather and stitched on the same piece right next to each other at each of the settings, measured the stitches per inch, then marked each one with a pen.i.e 2 , 4, etc . It has become a convenient reference.
Hey Daniel, Is there another part to this video? "Slickbald" was explaining nesting stitches at 1:06:28 and it abruptly ended. WTF.....Great Video, give us some more!!!
great video I have a question a broken needle while sewing now that I've put the new needle in it seems to be rubbing against the feed dog machine still sews fine just I can hear it in kind of feel it to the leather catching on the upstroke
I'm just a hobbyist,but i want to work with heavy leather,holsters and other things. What machine would you recommend for someone who works at the kitchen table?
Hey Chris ... thank you very much for all hard work. The majority of my problems were solved with this video but, just still one question: when you say we have to "cheat" the machine to sew with #69 threads, we have to installing the bobbin INVERSE. Did you mean put it in a CLOCK-WISE position inside the capsule? And what did you mean about "over the top" on the shuttle? Thanks my man!!!
“The numbers mean nothing” Incorrect The stitch length numbers represent an approximate stitch length in millimeters. And it’s not very approximate it’s actually pretty accurate.
@@kcstott 9 ” Cylinder Arm Best and most versatile presser feet in the business Sews from 6 oz. to 7/8″ Thread sizes from 69 to 415 794, 7×4, 7×3 Needle Systems Triple Feed mechanism Reverse stitches in same holes Stitch Length from 3-22 stitches an inch Sews pads, blankets,webbing, canvas, bio-plastics, upholstery, etc… 28 LED Super Beam Lamp Heavy Duty Speed Reducer Digital DC Servo Motor Don't know if you can't read or are just being a idiot but these specs. are right off the LMC website.
Chris, I make handbags, wallets, and I work with heavy belts, some gun holsters etc. I bought a Cobra Class 20 flatbed machine and I love the way it sews but when I put a recent handbag together with this flatbed machine, it was a job trying to get this thing stitched and then when it come to the top stitching, omg I thought I wasn't going to get this part done. My question to you is, I really need a cylinder arm machine for my handbags and I don't know if the Class 4 is to heavy of a machine for what I'm needing to do. I have a leather company where I live so that way if I need help or work done in the machine they are here for me but, my choices are a Cobra Class 26, Class 3, or a Class 4, I also thought I would get a table top for one of these machine just encase I would need one. Can you tell me which one of these machine you think would work the best for what I am doing, I mainly do handbags and wallets but I could venture off in the near future with gun holsters etc? I would really appreciate any advice you could give me, the company I bought my flatbed from is going to let me trade for a cylinder arm machine beings I just purchased it less than a month ago. Thanks so much for your help. Tammy
If you venture into heavy stuff I would go for a 3 or 4, from the research I've done it seems to be a good all-around machine being able to knockout totes and wallets all day long and be able to sew super heavy stuff like weight lifting belts and tac work
Hi Chris, I bought the Cobra class 3 and having a hard time adjusting the tension. I make handbags and needed a cylinder arm machine and I go through 4 layers of upholstery leather at a time. I'm seeing the knots on the top. I've been told to adjust both the side tension as well as the tension on the top so can you help me understanding what part of the machine I need to use to adjust the tension? In the video your adjusting the top knob loosening the tension so you don't see knots on the top so do you only adjust just the top tension knob and not the side tension knob? Do you ever have to adjust the bobbin tension? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Tammy
@@nathancronk9447 I've threaded the machine 20 times & still have to adjust both top tension , side tension all the way loose & still see the thread on top. I've adjusted the bobbin as tight as it will go also.