Coffin And Body Build

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This is the full length build video for my recently completed remake of our coffin and body prop. The old prop was made 7 years ago from foam over a wood frame and it has deteriorated quite a bit over the years. The new one is all wood and I made big improvements to the body inside as well as added animation.
Here are the links to the .stl files for the 3D printed skull and hands I used. All credit to the people who made these awesome files and shared them!
Skull - www.thingiverse.com/thing:388... - I oriented this one face up and used tree supports. Took about 15 hours on my Bambulabs P1S printer.
Hands - www.thingiverse.com/thing:497... These print with a fitting on the wrist that is intended to fit into pvc pipe. I just cut those off for my purposes.
Everything was printed in PLA + amzn.to/4bZOXjd
Music Credits...
Shub-Niggurath - Wezwanie (Summoning) • Shub Niggurath 01 We...
Kerosyn - Six Coffin Nails • 'Six Coffin Nails' by ...
Arthur Vyncke - Supernova • ⭐ Instrumental Metal (...
Anders - Ex Nihilo • Ex Nihilo - Anders | M...
Repulsive - Eurydice pt. 2 • REPULSIVE - Eurydice P...

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Опубликовано:

1 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 19

@darrylqmiller Месяц назад

The cool thing about redoing old builds is reusing items such as seven year old cloth that have actual patina to them. Makes the prop look even more aged and realistic in my opinion. Another great job!

@OakLaneCemetery Месяц назад

The old plastic corpsing saved me a lot of time as well. I didn't have to 100% redo the entire thing, just stripped it off the areas I wanted to improve and repaint everything else.

@1031Robyn Месяц назад

Incredible! This is creepy without the movement, but now it's just over the top. Can't wait to see the cemetery come to life in the fall. :D

@Jekyll-Labs Месяц назад

So well done. All the details are perfect.

@gregorymotta3296 Месяц назад

Spooky, nice 3-D print of the skull.

@halloweenatthemanor8450 Месяц назад

WOW!!! Just incredible. Amazing job.

@brianpelky4878 Месяц назад

A 3D printer is a game-changer isn't it? 😊

@OakLaneCemetery Месяц назад

Sure is!

@seanb7101 Месяц назад

Brilliant! So inspirational!

@erinlemmon1691 Месяц назад

So cool, very nice job! I've been wanting to do the latex corpsing but I'm worried about it disintegrating too fast since UVB breaks down latex pretty fast. What's been your experience with it? If it at least lasts a few years I'm good with that, I just don't want to be doing massive repairs every other year

@OakLaneCemetery Месяц назад

All depends on climate and sun exposure. Latex breaks down fastest under heat and direct sunlight. I've found a top coat of spar varnish can help a lot, but all latex will break down eventually. Embedding cloth or shop towel can also help add strength and prolong it's life. This one is somewhat shaded in his coffin, plus it will be in a shaded area so I expect to get at least 5 years before it needs repairs.

@sceyedoc Месяц назад

First Class, all the way. Thanks for the tutorial. Your stuff always ROCKS!!! Just a question, if you slightly corpsed the skull, would that impede head movement?

@OakLaneCemetery Месяц назад

As long as the corpsing was done carefully and avoided attaching to the neck, or creating textures that would snag on the cloth it would be fine. I decided I wanted a look that was more of something that looked like the coffin had been opened for a while, which exposed the body to the elements and scavengers and sped up decomposition of the most exposed areas. If I ever tire of the look I can easily pop the head off and replace it with a corpsed one, or a jawless one in about 30 seconds. The way I made the drive was so that I can even disconnect the pipe at either end and remove the whole motor box for repairs or upgrades.

@glennharris5043 Месяц назад

Are you using the 0.2 nozzle? The layers look invisible on camera, not sure about in hand but people won’t get that close to it anyway. Brilliant printer.

@OakLaneCemetery Месяц назад

0.4 nozzle with matte pla + filament. They are still there, but very fine. I had to take care not to make them more visible when I stained and aged it. Did a light coat to get some color, went over it with a couple of coats of spar varnish to fill in the lines some, then did another heavier staining over that and a light coat of spar varnish. Used flat finish clear spray to knock that shine off you see at the beginning of the video.

@glennharris5043 Месяц назад

@@OakLaneCemetery that’s really great if you only needed a couple of coats of spar varnish and then some matte finish, better than using fillers. Did you use a airbrush to spray the spar? So using the 0.2mm the lines would be even finer as well. I’m buying the machine I’m sold.

@OakLaneCemetery Месяц назад

I think the main thing was using matte PLA, which made the layer lines less noticeable to begin with. The spar varnish worked in the same way Bondo spray primer or any other filler would have in that it was thick enough to blind over the layer lines and make them smoother for the next coat of finishing. I just brushed it over the first basic color layers, let it dry, then came back in with additional layers of staining to finish.