Oak Lane Cemetery is our Halloween yard display and home haunt located in Hopewell VA. I build most of our props and consider many of them to be works of art. We started around 2007 with just a few store bought tombstones and a couple of really bad props I made myself. Through the haunt community I have learned new techniques and adapted them into props I've made and our haunt has grown and improved greatly over the past few years. I enjoy making things and sharing how to build props with others. Feel free to replicate any of my work for your own use, but I do not give permission in any way for anything I've made to be copied for resale or production.
I have set up a Gofundme for donations to help keep us Haunting at - gofund.me/404e7599
Timers are extra for most fog machines. I have no idea why the manufacturers don't just build in a timer or include one. Instead they usually just include a little push button thing on a cord to manually activate it and call that a "remote".
For the intake I think a 3" elbow is about perfect. At least for my fog machine. I get very little fog not being pulled in and it lines up really well. Upgrading to a 4" elbow might work for a bigger fog machine or one that doesn't line up perfectly with the 3" pipe. As far as the exit goes, I think a 3" is PERFECT for MY setup. I used to have a 3" pipe running into a 6" fog tube, but after swapping to a 3" fog tube I have found that it works way better than the 6" did. Again, as with the intake, a bigger fog machine might work better with a bigger exit pipe and fog tube. Mine took a bit of experimenting to find the right balance and I can say for a Titan 1200 fog machine, a 3" intake, 3" outlet and 3" 25ft long fog tube with 1/2" holes about 10" apart works GREAT! I would also say, if you are using a 4" inlet, use a 4" outlet to prevent any back pressure issues.
Highly! It's a bit expensive, but from what I've experienced and what more experienced people have said about it, it seems to be one of the best printers out there right now. I'm glad I chose it over the Creality printer I was looking at.
@@OakLaneCemetery I have a Creality ender 3 v2, it's been in the cupboard for two years now, useless, with only problems. I'm currently looking for something better.
When I did my research into them I was able to narrow it down pretty quick to the Creality K1 or a BambuLabs P1S. Both had all of the features I wanted and both were at the top end of the price range I was looking at. To settle it I started looking at Reddit posts for Creality and Bambulabs. I saw pretty quickly that the Creality subreddit was full of people asking for help with issues or to solve problems with their prints. Some were just there to show off the nifty things they had printed. Over on the BambuLabs subreddit I found things to be completely the opposite. Most of the people there were showing off their prints or printer setups and far fewer were having issues. Another thing I noted was how many people stated that it worked for them straight out of the box, which was also my experience. When I got my P1S I unboxed it, spent about 30 minutes setting it up, looking it over and reading the instructions. Did a quick RU-vid search to see someone thread up the filament to make sure I did it right and within another 30 minutes I had printed a perfect little green "boatie" as my first print. From there I moved on to downloading some small models and printing them and within a few days I had printed my fist large print, a skull bowl. Within a week I had printed a full skull. Within another week or so I had printed a fully articulated life sized spine and skull. For being a complete novice to 3d printing I kinda feel like the printer made it stupid easy for me to move so far so fast in my 3d printing endeavors. I have never had to tweak any major settings or tune in anything. If something fails, I clean the plate and try again. If it fails again I reorient it on the plate, add a brim and fiddle with the supports. I have yet to find something I can't get to print using this method. GREAT printers in my experience.
I started out with some 3in vacuum hose, but it got brittle on me in storage so I switched to a cheap 3" plastic coated aluminum flex duct thinking that might last longer. It worked good, but was pretty fragile. My next plan was to glue up some 3in pvc and fittings to make a hard line instead of using the flex, but I just happened to find some 3" flexible pipe that fit PERFECTLY and was long enough to allow me to eliminate that short hose between the box and my fog tube. Now I have the blower attached directly to the box outlet and my super long fog tube attaches directly to it. Unfortunately I have no idea where to find the same pipe like I'm currently using because I found it in a trash pile at work.
Yeah, the in-line blower is 3”. I’m going to try 4” flexible dryer duct, which snugs up against the in-line blower box and then try to connect that to the tote pvc exit somehow. I’m trying decide whether to use 3” or 4” pvc for the tote exit. I think you mentioned that you thought 4” would be better.
So cool, very nice job! I've been wanting to do the latex corpsing but I'm worried about it disintegrating too fast since UVB breaks down latex pretty fast. What's been your experience with it? If it at least lasts a few years I'm good with that, I just don't want to be doing massive repairs every other year
All depends on climate and sun exposure. Latex breaks down fastest under heat and direct sunlight. I've found a top coat of spar varnish can help a lot, but all latex will break down eventually. Embedding cloth or shop towel can also help add strength and prolong it's life. This one is somewhat shaded in his coffin, plus it will be in a shaded area so I expect to get at least 5 years before it needs repairs.
The cool thing about redoing old builds is reusing items such as seven year old cloth that have actual patina to them. Makes the prop look even more aged and realistic in my opinion. Another great job!
The old plastic corpsing saved me a lot of time as well. I didn't have to 100% redo the entire thing, just stripped it off the areas I wanted to improve and repaint everything else.
Just the two wires "+ and _" from the motor down through a hole in the table. The wires run along one of the branches of the table base to a 12v female plug at the very bottom where I connect the power supply. there is a 12v PWM speed control under the table (4:25 in the video), that allows me to control the speed at which the motor turns.
Are you using the 0.2 nozzle? The layers look invisible on camera, not sure about in hand but people won’t get that close to it anyway. Brilliant printer.
0.4 nozzle with matte pla + filament. They are still there, but very fine. I had to take care not to make them more visible when I stained and aged it. Did a light coat to get some color, went over it with a couple of coats of spar varnish to fill in the lines some, then did another heavier staining over that and a light coat of spar varnish. Used flat finish clear spray to knock that shine off you see at the beginning of the video.
@@OakLaneCemetery that’s really great if you only needed a couple of coats of spar varnish and then some matte finish, better than using fillers. Did you use a airbrush to spray the spar? So using the 0.2mm the lines would be even finer as well. I’m buying the machine I’m sold.
I think the main thing was using matte PLA, which made the layer lines less noticeable to begin with. The spar varnish worked in the same way Bondo spray primer or any other filler would have in that it was thick enough to blind over the layer lines and make them smoother for the next coat of finishing. I just brushed it over the first basic color layers, let it dry, then came back in with additional layers of staining to finish.
First Class, all the way. Thanks for the tutorial. Your stuff always ROCKS!!! Just a question, if you slightly corpsed the skull, would that impede head movement?
As long as the corpsing was done carefully and avoided attaching to the neck, or creating textures that would snag on the cloth it would be fine. I decided I wanted a look that was more of something that looked like the coffin had been opened for a while, which exposed the body to the elements and scavengers and sped up decomposition of the most exposed areas. If I ever tire of the look I can easily pop the head off and replace it with a corpsed one, or a jawless one in about 30 seconds. The way I made the drive was so that I can even disconnect the pipe at either end and remove the whole motor box for repairs or upgrades.
Adding ice will greatly reduce the mister's ability to create mist. It has an optimum operating temperature range and going below that causes it to not work as well. The whole point of this is to get away from using ice and by adding ice you will just be creating a big, inefficient ice chiller and probably damage a $100 mister head. Ultrasonic chillers needs no additional help. They already work far better than any home made ice chiller ever made.
