Cold Setting A Bike Frame (126mm to 130mm Hub Spacing) 

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I have done many of these, including from 120 mm to 135 mm, to use a wider axle for batter spoke tension equalization from left to right for a stronger wheel. A couple of tips: If the right side chainstay is crimped for chainwheel clearance, it will usually bend and set sealer than the left chainstay, which will pu the frame out of alignment. Watch carefully and and adjust accordingly. To check frame alignment, the mice park tool is not needed. Use a long piece of string or thin bungee cord tied from the surface of one dropout, around the head tube, and back to the corresponding surface of the the other dropout. Now you can check frame alignment by measuring from the string or cord to the seat tube on both sides. The measurements should be equal.

I realize this is an old video, but just wanted to give kudos and thanks to RJ. I combined this threaded rod cold setting technique with the “string” alignment check (continuous checking during the spreading) followed with dropout alignment using RJs homemade tool. My 1984 Miyata is now 2x10. Thanks a million RJ.

You just saved me a whole heap of stress. I almost gave up on a motorized bicycle project. I ordered these really nice mag wheels with a built in sprocket but they were way to wide for the fork. I already had the engine on and everything so I couldn't lay the bike on its side and do the board method. Seriously man ..from the bottom of my heart thank you so much

Thank you so much. You just saved me a hundred Canadian. I was about to have dropouts respaced by a bike store, but after watching your tutorial I was able to do it myself. I do owe you a pint!

I have upgraded my bike from 126 to 130, added a 8 speed mega range 11-34 cassette, the recommended shimano derailer and everything went smoothly, my bike get a 15 years upgrade of technologie and it's insanly agreable to ride now. Would thank you RJ for all your videos that made this possible.

I have old broked alloy rims so I disassembled the hubs and uses their axles to expand the thin steel tubes that's so easy than expand the tubes with your hands first I tried with hands but I failed then I uses your technique and make it easy. Thanks " RJ the bike guy ". You are great mechanic.

I've used the 2x4 method a few times. I just tried the threaded rod method. It's much better. It was quicker and easier and more accurate. Thank you very much.

I built the tool for $5 and spread my frame from 120mm to 130mm and it worked perfectly. Put the new 130mm wheel in and it is dead center. Thank you sooooooo much!

I built and used your cold setting tool. Super simple. 3/8" x 12" all thread, 6 3/8" nuts, 2 3/8" washers. Increased the hub spacing from 120mm to 126mm. I've been riding it with a 6-speed freewheel squeezed in, so it was 122mm and it ended up almost 127mm. Slid in easily. Took me more time to clean up the threads on the all thread with a die than to actually cold set the frame. Many, many thanks. Next, I'm gonna build your dropout alignment tool.

I used the shaft & nuts option and it worked perfectly on my vintage Peugeot. She's now running on 700x38s

I did this exact method after watching this video and it worked amazingly! I opened up 70s fuji frame from 126-135. I had to open it up to 170mm and that's what got it to set at 135. Afterwards, I brazed disc mounts onto the frame and some cable guides and it held the spacing. Thanks for this video!

Thank you so much for what you do! Your videos on this topic helped me convert a cherished steel frame I received from a friend to a modern 10 speed fun machine (10 speed as in ten sprockets on the cassette). My girlfriend helped me during the shaft & nuts method of cold setting the frame and it was an fun and engaging activity for the both of us. Thanks again for what you do!

Perfect, thank you RJ. As a makeshift frame alignment guage, I took a spirit level/ straight edge and rested it against the head tube and dropout. I then measured the gap between the straight edge and the seat tube... The gap was quite different each side of the frame, so I adjusted this to be the same to put the frame into alignment. By increasing one side, this was also just the right adjustment to accommodate the new wheel 👍

The threaded rod is my favorite method. But to avoid possible cracks at the bridges, I put around them cheap coil springs compressors that I thighten just enough so they don't move.

I need to do this but in reverse. I have a steel frame mongoose fatbike with 190mm rear dropout standard, that I wish changed to 175mm fatbike standard. The threaded rod method is the most precise method I've yet seen to DIY this. Kudos to RJ the bike guy

Thank you thankyouthankyou a million times thank you. I'm currently rebuilding an '86 RockHopper and hadn't realized it would not fit my previous build's wheelset which I was planning to swap. Saved me a lot of trouble. Maybe I'll post an overview video when in a few days. Thanks again, you are who makes youtube beautiful. Ride on man!

Cool. I like the threaded rod method. I also like upgrading vintage roadbikes. I'm making a 2x9 of an old 10 speed, and just did the frame. Inspired of your videos. :)

Dude, you're godsend! I'm from Russia, I'm watching both yours and VeloLab bike workshop's videos, learning something new every day! Soon I'll be able to fix my own bike by myself :)

Thank you for your time and common sense approach. Score one for metal frames which I prefer over aluminum or carbon fiber. I like a plain work horse bike not one that cost as much as a used car.😊

Recently discovered your videos. They are very informative and you explain and demonstrate everything very clearly. Really appreciate all the effort. Bike On!

this channel has been a lifeline lol working on a vintage restoration for my 1st bike project. thanks for the content!

I did this to my classic frame (with the bolt as tool as shown here) and it solved my problem. Thank you sir RJ.

thanks for showing this! i did this with a old steel mountain bike frame that was a 5 speed and now i have a 11 speed !

Thank you so much! Worked great! I spreaded my SLX-Frame from 126 to 130 - but need 170mm to do so. I worked it up from 145 but untill 160 i had basically no changes. I also removed the two screws in the Hanger to do all this.

Thank you for these videos, I just finished converting my 6-speed 122mm to a 130mm 8 speed, modern wheel. I used a bit of the 2x4 lever method and the threaded rod.

"EXACTLY" what I was looking for! Thank You So Very Much...

How can anyone give this a thumbs down... Thank you RJ

Thanks for sharing, works great but I had to resort to the plywood method for fine tuning the alignment at the end. My frame was much easier to bend than I had expected!

well done. learned a few tricks. I've used the 2x4 method a few times. now I know how to align the dropouts.

Thanks so much for this. Just saved me taking an angle grinder to my Cargo Bike project in frustration! Worked a treat

Thanks for the Video, Sheldon Brown of RU-vid! For my Columbus SL Frame without a chainstay bridge it didn't do anyting from 126 to 160mm. When setting it to 165 it became 127 and at 170 it became 127.5. Then at 175 it became exactly 130. Think next time I would go in even smaller steps after the first movement because I think I was quite lucky to nail it exactly.

Thank you!! This is exactly what I was looking for to use my old Raleigh steel frame racer (126mm) with a smart trainer like the Wahoo Kickr or Tacx Neo 2T.

This is awesome. Nuff said. Well done RJ!

Thanks RJ. Just beat back the wife's attempts to make me buy a Walmart bike and picked up a used steel Gary Fisher and I bought a Specialized about a year ago and let it lay ( low end Specialized Hard Rock from the 90s but it is butted chromoly ). Funny thing is the wife said she wanted a bike like the one she used to have, another Specialized steel frame, so she intuitively liked the steel but just didn't know why ( I ruined that one with a botched fork replacement but let's not talk about that ). I quite fancy putting a single chainwheel on one of them and something modern at the back and you just showed me how to do that. My family doesn't understand multiple chainwheels so the simplification is appealing. Cheers!

thank you so much! I was restoring a 31yo Favorit F1 and I found here exactly what i needed.

Thanks RJ, first saw Sheldon Brown's but your method much better. I understand as long as frame is already aligned. With the new wheels, I should be able to reduce the laughs at my 1990 steel Swinn. :D

Another informative video RJ. Like the Homemade videos and have made some myself through your channel.

Again,well explained video!Keep it up R.J.

man you saved my day with this video..tks..

this is awesome - thanks so much for sharing!

Video on cold setting a steel frame was very clear and informative. Great

Thanks for this video, so helpful, clear and plain speaking. Cheers 👍

Thank you for this video, i can finally fit my 8 speed cassette on my classic racer

Another great video! Thanx R.J

this is so fricking informative. Thanks

Very useful method, the last one method that i like to try on old mtb. Thank you very much sir

Great Vid - very informative, thanx.

Thank you John! I love your garage!

Bloody brilliant video. Thank you!!!

This is a very risky operation intended only for professionals with appropriate knowledge! Some people claim that it is not even necessary to permanently bend the rear forks from 126 mm to 130 mm and that you can only press in the wheel with a new hub, expanding the forks elastically. But the hooks should be parallel, so they would have to be bent. That's exactly what I did on my bike, only bending the dropouts because I didn't want to damage the 3-speed 120 mm hub, inserting it into the frame with a 114 mm fork spacing instead of the usual single-speed torpedo, manually expanding the steel forks within the elastic limits.

That's ingenious! I'm doing this tonight!

I made a gauge out of rectangular stock, 3/4" x 1 3/4" stock tubing, 42" long. I drilled a hole 1" from an end (through the wide side) and JB welded a small 10-32 on both sides of the hole with a 3" bolt installed..... With this you can put it on the frame (head tube and down tube) but the end goes to the inside of the frame-stays and you measure the bolt to the dropout on the "inside" or "wheel side"of the dropout with the wheel off. Had the scrap tubing, 56 cents for nuts, washer, and bolt.....I have a normal gauge, but this is handy when the wheel is already off, like when you are buying just a frame, keep it in my van, works like a charm.

Loving your work sir... Carry on

Out standing videos 👍👍👍 buddy good information to know this is what I needed to know how to do this fore my EBike rest fork was a little bet short rubbing on wheel axe now I can fix it wow Nice 👍👍👍 take care stay safe out there from Alaska 🤠

Good stuff, I have to do that to my old KHS frame. I'll go with the 3/8 all thread method..

I tried this method carefully for a few hours on an old Marinoni with Columbus SL tubing. Wouldn't widen at all - came back to 125mm after every effort to separate the stays (had it up at ~165mm a few times). I ended up using a piece of wood and some muscle - done in 2 minutes.

How are you doing since the accident? I hope things are going well. I just spent 3 weeks with a pinched Sciatic Nerve issue, and I've never felt pain like that in my entire life; and it's not over. All the doctors want to diagnose over a video conference ! Give you magic beans, and see ya. Nobody does their job any more. I can't imagine what you might be going through. i wish you the best because you're The bike guy. That video made my day. I came up with the same solution while converting a beach cruiser to an electric gear-less hub motor electric bike. I also had to convert it so that it had disc brakes. This was a Pee Wee Herman style bike that I rode on the trails; as to not be seen... It had red tires, swept back handlebars, with a basket on the front, and brakes that required you to pedal backwards. As a kid... That was the safest thing in the world. It worked every time. Then they came up with cable pull brakes, that always failed in the rain... And then disc brakes with all the complications and expense of those. I could , not for the life of me.... figure out how to get my brain, at 62 years old to understand the pedal backward, (Safest, most reliable brake in the world). So many years have gone by and how many people have suffered from inadequate brakes ? The problem needs to go away. It was the first e-bike that I did with such a style conversion. As i was building it, I did the same thing that you did. Kinda made me proud that i came up with the same solution as R.J. The Bike Guy ! You've been such an inspiration over the years. Straight forward, honest, work.... and it is work. Videos don't make themselves and you don't fast forward through the unexpected things that can happen. You take the time to cover all the important information in detail. With simple explanations that anyone can understand. I don't know how you feel about electric bikes, but the more things change, the more they stay the same. All the tips, tricks, and techniques you offer in your videos still apply to electric bikes. The main difference is in the cost and the fact that electric bikes require better braking power..... which is a serious concern. They are heavier. They also require torque arms so that the wheel; which has a lot of torque won't just fall out of the mounting bracket. Been there, done that. More embarrassing than anything. Probably looked pretty funny though. Learned i didn't have the tools handy and had to do the walk of shame back to get the tools. Learned something. Don't be afraid of change. We don't like to change. Always keep learning and Take the Change with You.

Perfect.. this video helped out tremendously

thats nuts! awesome nuts!

Very Helpful As Usual RJ The Bike Guy I'm Doing this to my 1957 Dunelt Which Had A Sturmey Archer 3 Speed Hub To Put A 120mm Fixed/Freewheel Rim on it So I Got To Go About 8mm out Which Won't Bother Those Old Hardcore Frames, Just Have To Take My Time And Do In A Few Increments At A Time. The Front Forks I Had To Go From 90mm To 100mm I Did It Gently Yet Firmly By Hand a Little At A Time They Work Now.

Thank you so much for this rj more powers and be safe always very helpful because i want to convert my bmx into 8 speed set up and i dont no what to do so that i see this very helpful video i will do this tommorow to see if works. and i will comment again :).

Amazing video

I've recently tried this with my old Voyageur SP for an upgraded hub. Apparently the steel is too strong (Columbus Tenax frame) because, while it does spread, it goes back to the original spacing. I guess I'll try the SB method next. Thanks for all your great videos!

thank you very much for this!

I like this video. One of the key things it showed me was how much steel can bend without actually breaking. RJ bent the frame by 34mm in order to deform the frame by 4mm. The elasticity of steel makes cold setting unnecessary, I'd prefer to just force the 130mm hub into the 126mm dropout, works fine for me.

I cant really see how people can thumb down a video like this.

This is such a great video

FANTASTIC!

Thanks RJ, I might have to use this method for my 70s French Motobecane that I am restoring

Simply the best!!!!!

Threaded rod is my preference too. No risk of putting your back out of shape pulling on bars! People, remember to keep your back straight when lifting! For the gauge, an even cheaper method is a taut string tied to the dropouts and passed around the head tube. Measure alignment at the seat tube.

Wooow really good idea. Thank you

So I used this method to go from 126 to 130, but I got a bit carried away... and accidentally went up 135. I then threaded the washers & bolts on to the outside of the drop outs and tightened back down to 130. Is this back and forth anything to be concerned about?

great info, thank u

Nice one

Thats actually a good idea you must just use the right tools so instead of buying a new bike this can work 👍

Nice One 🏁

thanks for this video.. can i use this method to close the gap?? a lot free space for my 135 hub..

Thank you for this. I watched this like a year ago but I actually DO it tomorrow

Thank you

I linked to this video on my latest video. John's vintage road bike garage! Thanks

Excellent

I dont need to do anything like that but really interesting and informational video.

I had an old Specialized Stumpjumper frame resized to 135MM in Portland back in the 1990s. The shop used a Park tool & I never had any problems -- wish I had kept that bike 😭

great video RJ ..i crashed a while ago flying of my carrera hustle bike converted to a ebike....well since then the brakes ( hydraulic ) have been playing up ... only need around 3mm to sort this out .....

Great Video. I was looking how to mount a 130mm wheel on my Nirve frame. Questions: Do you know if I can shrink the frame back to original size? Will it be safe? Do you know if I can use quick release on single speed bikes (is there a risk of wheel move out from drops?)

Hey RJ! If you want 9-10s give a bit more spacing of the hubs because of the derailleur alignment i have a 24er bike and the derailleur its offset with the hubs spacing it always touches the 7speeed chain at the frame

I added a motorized mag wheel which was a wider wheel because of the sprocket gear and disc brake I was able to get it to stay put so now the rim fits fine

Very good

This is excellent! I need to get from 120 to 130mm which is quite a difference. Is there a limit to how much you should try to push the frame out?

A very clear video showing a mechanically sympathetic method; I like the fact that the method loads the chain-stays and seat-stays simultaneously. Also, your video is the first time I remember I've seen frame straightness and dropout alignment addressed in any sort of practical detail. I never knew about the Park special tools. One question, and there is always one. Was a before-setting dropout alignment condition established please? I guess I'm wondering what the real work tolerance is of frames out there in the wild, and how that relates to the park tool recommended value of within 0.5mm. I have a couple of frames that could do with this treatment but have been lacking in confidence, mainly due to uncertainty about dropout alignment. One a1989 Scott Boulder, and the other a Raleigh Twenty. Thanks Graham

Could you do it for a front fork? If not on a suspension fork, how about on a rigid fork? Great video!

The iconic mid-garage soda cache... gotta love it

omg THANKYOU!

Молодец! 👍 👏 Спасибо. 😉

why you didnt recommend titanium & alloy frame ? it will break? im just wondering

I used it to fit a hubmotor for my electric cruiser bike

Going to attempt cold setting my frame which is at around 120mm and push them out to 130mm. Quite a big difference but hopefully it'll work!

It took 4 days for the frame to keep keep memory on their frame it worked I'm able to put a bigger a wider wheel on