How To Make DIY Dropout Alignment Gauge Tools 

I'm in the process of doing the same!

@@dominicstew1893 This Fall during the months of September and October, I put 2,000 miles on the bike mentioned above. Since I've made it road worthy, it's accumulated 7,000 mile. Good luck with your project!

Doing a 130 conversion on my 75 continental this summer!

I'm about to do this on my beat up Schwinn also! Cheers.

Need picture and where you bought the parts

Check frame alignment, and make sure the fork is not twisted.

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-StUTN4Bb2zI.html

Did you try this fix? (also why I'm watching this vid 🤦‍♀)

@@zahracj253 I did but it turned out not to be the problem... I've been told the wheel needs re-dished, and it may need a little filed off one side to make it true... I've booked into Halfords to have it done because my DIY effort didn't quite go to plan! 😁

@@johnny88sunday Thanks. Any update on the wheel dish? I'm booked in for my wheel tomorrow. I've seen some people have filed the fork, but I'd be wary of that. A metal file is NOT part of a bike tool kit. It'll invalidate any warranty (assuming you can claim from the UK anyway).

Thanks. On steel rigid forks you can do this. I would not do this on magnesium or even aluminum lowers.

The size of the frame makes no difference. I have a video where I convert a 10 speed to a 14 speed. And I have another vid where I convert 12 speed to a 16 speed. Same thing. The only difference is replacing the crankset with a triple. I think you will need a longer spindle in the BB.

I have a question if you can respond to this it would be much appreciated. The question I have is do you know how to make the dropouts on the bike frame bigger? Thanks.

What do you mean bigger?

For like a bigger axle to be able to fit in to the drop out or is it not possible ?

Larger diameter? Or longer?

ru-vid.com/group/PLxO5aF0senshDxqoooXUSJGG132wE_o35

Glad it was helpful!

I actually did double check with my Park Tool FFG-2, and it was pretty much right on.

Would stress the metal to the point of fatigue. Aluminum isn't very bendy. Can do it a liiiittle. But just a bit.

There is no right method for Alu. I'm assuming you already learned but just putting it here for anybody else who's curious. Aluminum does *not* like to be bent. It will lose its structural integrity and probably crack on the stand. If not there, eventually on the road/trail.

It's basically the same for checking the dropout alignment.

@@RJTheBikeGuy makes sense. Hahaha

No.

Yeah, they are threaded. The two nuts are tightened against each other.

You can try it. It's at your own risk.

Have you watched this video? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QwxEPRk3LFg.html But this tool is only good if the frame is in good alignment to begin with and you want to spread the stays evenly.

shyflirt1 No, I hadn't watched it until now, thank you. It's exactly what I was looking for. I checked Sheldon Brown's web site but his process was too intensive. Your system is more, to coin a phrase, "user friendly." Thanks again. Jesse

No. You need to align the frame. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-StUTN4Bb2zI.html

Thanks, I was looking for that improvement!

It can place added stress on the axle, and also cause it to slip.

Well, yes. Everything plays a role in the speed and reliability of a bicycle. The hub itself holds the ball bearings and the axle that makes rotation possible. The quality of the cups, cones and bearings is the most important, so check that and clean them up. Replace the cones or bearings if they seem scratched, crushed, basically damaged. But this is not all. Check your entire wheel, it should be true and the spokes should have good tension. You have plenty of videos from RJ that explain how to clean, service, replace, true, repair each bike component.

A good way to revitalize old hubs as long as races and cones arent too damaged or pitted: An old track racers trick is to polish your races and cones with silver polish or even toothpaste. Remove axle and balls. Clean out the old grease. Reassemble with polish instead of grease. Ride the bike ONLY 200 feet or so. Remove axle, clean inside of hubs as thoroughly as possible removing any trace of abrasives.Discard old balls. Buy the highest quality balls you can find. Theyre cheap. Grade 100 I think. Now reassemble , adjust so there is just a tiny bit of play so when wheel is tight in frame it takes out any play. Good closed cam QRs can exert a tremendous amount of force.

+Mi nk I got them at Lowe's or Home Depot.

No.