@@benkikugawa9185 oh my. That was a while ago. I'd have to Google them again. Try that first. If you don't find them I will see if I can find them. Thanks
Great video, definitely helped me on my 2018 ZR2. My upper arm bolts just spun in place when I tried to get the nut off. Found out you have to use an Allen wrench in the end to hold it. This means you MUST have an 18mm ratchet wrench. I also had to unbolt the sway bar on each side to make more room for the shock to move.
Because I used a 2 post lift I couldn't push the suspension up with a jack to reassemble it. If you use a jack and jack stands you can put a jack under the lower a arm and raise it up to bolt the sway bar link in.
Thank you for the great video! I did unbolt my sway bar but suspect it wasn’t necessary. When I went to reinstall the bar and the end links, the bar was high on the p/s and low on the d/s. After alignment it’s pulling to the driver side. Any tips on how to adjust that sway bar and could it be responsible for pulling left?
Without seeing it in person I can't be sure but typically the swaybar shouldn't cause an alignment issue. You could remove the swaybar and take a short drive and see if it still pulls. Keep speed low. But I'm leaning towards the alignment isn't correct.
I was told (not directly from RC) each vehicle type has to go through gov roll over testing with lift kits and it's expensive. They didn't see the demand for it in the ZR2 market. But yes it fits, works fine and I never had a problem and aligned fine.
Great video I installed this kit on my zr2 a few months after I got it but I started noticing some unusual rattling I went back to doble check everything and it’s looks fine my question is did you noticed the same rattling do you know what’s causing it???? Let me know if you do plz I would appreciate your help
No rattle from the front. I do get a little rattle and squeaks from the rear leaf springs. Theres a technical service bulletin for that but mine are no longer under warranty. And all they do is spray them with lube. Be sure you check every nut and bolt. Even the lug nuts.
BigFrogs4x4 thanks for the info I’m getting close to change tires after I do that I’ll be taking it back to my buddy’s alignment shop to check everything thing out thank you for your time
Do you have a ZR2 or a standard Colorado? Zr2 can only use the 1" spacer on top of the strut. Standard Colorados can use the 2" level kit. Yes, that will need the spring compressed and the strut disassembled. The spacer goes in with the spring and the other spacer goes on top of the assembled strut before being put back into the truck. If you don't have a way to safely compress the coil spring in the strut, take it to a shop that has a strut compressor tool and have them put it together.
@@BigFrogs4x4 the problem I ran into is that I don't have a shock compressor at this timesecond problem is that now with even the one in space without the ring cap and without using the shock compressor I can't get the shock back in cuz it's fully even with a hydraulic jack it just jacks up the truck. You have any ideas or just till morning
Sorry. Went to bed. I'm guessing you have a standard Colorado. Ya at this point either call an auto parts store to rent a compressor or take it to a shop.
As far as I know the suspensions are the same. It does come pretty close to level. The bed still sits a little higher but thats good in case you ever have weight in the bed.
Do you think you could fit 20x12s and 31s on it? Not planning on wheeling it until its older so for now I just want some major poke 🤣 any info on it would be VERY appreciated!
Yes but you would need a proper offset wheel. If you do an internet search there are several forums that talk about it. If you watch my zr2 dyno video he has deep wheels on the front. He swapped the rear to stock for a more accurate test. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-otP4qapKGAU.html
I'm still on the stock rubber so I can't say from my experience. But I have read online of 33s fitting with no lift but they did need to trim. The 1" budget lift just means there is less trimming.
Any issues with offroading it? I've heard some people say that it can damage front end components overtime. Also would the eibach leveling springs would but the front end components at the same angle. Kinda torn between the 2 designs lol
Spring and spacer both push the suspension down so they both have the same effect on wear and tear on ball joints etc. Some say the springs ride better. I don't know. I honestly think the spacers and new bump stops ride better than stock. So far no problem from off road. I still need to go over it after my last off road trip. I know I have some paint to touch up.
Do you think this could be done on Jack stands in one day, because I don't have access to a lift? I am assuming that nothing has changed for 2019 so would really like to do it myself instead of a local shop. Do they include the torque spec for everything with the spacers? Great video
Thanks. And yes. I actually think stands would be easier. Most of the videos I do I use stands when possible. I know most people don't have a lift so people can see it can be done the normal way. Only reason I used the lift is because I was injured. I honestly don't remember if it gave torque specs. I didn't use any even though I should have. After 300-500 miles recheck everything. And any nylon lock nuts you reuse I do recommend lock tight. Nylon lock nuts are intended for 1 time use. Once threads are cut into the nylon from first installation they don't lock as tight second time around.
@@BigFrogs4x4 now that you mentioned it, you did say you were hurt that's why the lift. Sorry. I would use lock tight also. Do the bump stops on amazon replace the factory or are they the same just newer?
They are different. Longer but a softer rubber. I didn't trim mine. I think it seems to handle better than before. Ride better. GM uses the bump stop as part of its up travel cushion not just a stop. They've been doing that since they use independent front suspension. If you ever rode in a truck that the bump stops rotted off then put new ones in you would notice the ride difference. The bump stops my hinder articulation some. Not allow as much up travel as stock. If you do notice you don't like the ride or think it causes a problem off road you can use a sharp knife or even better a hack saw and cut off only the bottom round nub. No more than that or it could allow too much up travel and cause dssv shock valve issues or failure.
2018 Chevy Colorado 4x4 6cyl same steps and your video? How long after install for an alignment? If I do this on the weekend I can drive it but get in Monday/Tuesday for an alignment?
Oh and yes process is the same. The driver side is harder than passenger side. Harder to get to the 1 top bolt. But can be done with standard hand tools.
You will want them same time you do the lift. They are a softer material than the stock bump stops. I would keep them whole until you get the alignment done and see what you think of the ride. If you feel it is a little rough you can trim off the first bottom nub only. Trim too much or not replacing them can cause the dssv to compress too far and could damage the internals of the shock. I left mine full and I think it rides better after the level kit.
Thank you for the video description, very helpful and informative. 1 questions, on the rough country website they have the " 2 inch level kit" or the " 1 inch upper strut spacer" watching your video it appears you used just the spacers. Is this correct?
Yes. Links for parts are in the video description. From what others say more than 1 inch can damage internals of the dssv shock. This too is why it needs longer bumpstops. Thanks for watching and please consider subscribing if you didn't already.
For the Rough Country 921 1" Upper Strut Lift Spacer kit Amazon is saying "does not fit "ZR2" models; highly recommended that aftermarket wheels, or wheel Spacers, be hub-centric" Is this true? They seem to fit just fine in your video!
It does work. This is currently the only way to lift the zr2. But you have to use the bump stops too or it can bottom out the dssv shock inside and cause internal damage.
Yes. The upper strut tower is the same size and bolt pattern as the standard Colorado and canyons. The reason Rough country says that is because they never had it safety tested by the government for rollover protection etc. Just so you know the 1" level kit is the only one that can be used on the ZR2. The 2" won't work. You also must replace the bump stops with the belltech bump stops. Trimming the bottom 1" is optional. I didn't cut it off. The belltech is softer and compresses more allowing more suspension cushion.
What kind of kits did you install for level it up. I take my to one of those places where they suppose to do lifted and man my truck keeping breaking the axels pls can you tell me what side and brand
The zr2 can only take a 1" level kit. A couple different companies make a level kit for the Colorado. They say not for ZR2 but they work. I used rough country and belltec bump stops. There is a link in the description of the video from Amazon.
According to Rough Country they do not make a kit for the ZR2. Do any of the kits they make for the colorado work on the ZR2? If so are there any negatives to using a kit that supposedly doesnt fit the ZR2?
As far as I know only bds suspensions makes a ZR2 specific lift kit but it's a 4" lift. The RC 1" level kit fits and has been installed by a lot of people with no issues. You must do the bump stops at the same time. Max trim only the bottom 1 nub off the bottom but I didn't trim mine. Rides fine. A link to both parts on Amazon is in the video description if it makes it easier. Thanks for asking and asking questions.
That is all the is allowed with the dssv shocks. With more than the 1" it could over extend the shock causing damage when the shock drops all the way down and pushes all the way up. Great question. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for subscribing. The alignment was off. The shop said by quite a bit. Caster and camber. But honestly I think it rides better. My wife noticed she had to move the seat up a bit more. Makes it harder to see over the hood lol.
You mentioned in the vid you didn’t have to trim your bump stops. When the truck is on the ground how much, if any, space is there between the bottom of the bump stop and the lower control arm? I put my kit on this past Sunday and on the ground my bump stops were pressing against the lower control arm. Curious about how yours sits. Thanks!
BrianPerry039725 i left mine untrimmed because the bump stops are a softer rubber than the stock ones. I think it rides fine. If you trim them just do a little at a time. Trimmed may help it off road flex better but our truck doesn't see major off road.
No I left them whole. They are a softer material than the stock ones. I honestly think it rides and handles better with the level kit and these bump stops.
Even going off road? No problems? I installed the same kit from 589 today. I noticed on brooke and Allen's channel he said he cut his. But I dont know that he ever tried them at full length.
@@ghuron13 Allen installed his in the early stages of people experimenting with this set up. It has since been figured out cutting isn't necessary. The new bump stops are a softer material and compress easier with less resistance. They also don't needs the sides trimmed like first thought to put into place. They can be pushed into place easy with a prybar because they are so much softer. If you choose to trim them, just use a hacksaw blade and trim off the bottom 1". But it's better to try them whole first and trim later. Once trimmed the only choice is to spend $20 on another set if you dont like the trimmed ride.
It is not for the zr2 exactly. But it does work. Same bolt pattern. But you must install the bump stops too. That way the shocks dont compress too far and cause damage.
@@BigFrogs4x4 Does your truck sit level w/ only 1" of front lift? I was looking at the Rough Contry 922 2" leveling kit!?! The bolt patterns look to be the same also, but not sure if this would be to much!?! I want my zr2 level, not so much that it's doing the Carolina Squat!!! Thanx!
I have a 2018 ZR2 Diesel. Tried installing the 1" RC leveling kit but when removing the 18mm nut from the control arm bolt, the control arm did not separate from the knuckle. At all! I tried a rubber mallet and then a 3lb sledge with a 2x4. Tried on driver and passenger sides, wouldn't budge at all. Anyone have any suggestions?
What was the two-by-four for? Is that to cushion the blow so you didn't mark up the knuckle? The only way to break that loose is a good hammer on knuckle hit. The 2x4 would absorb the vibration from the impact needed to knock it loose. If someone else has a better way of doing this please let me know.
To be honest most don't come apart as easy as mine did. I should have mentioned you may need to hit the knuckle with a hammer. It will mark the aluminum knuckle.
Dealer told me 100. Seemed too light to me. Did some research and found some say 140 lb ft. Thats in the 1 ton truck range. Seems way to high to me. I went with 120 lb ft. Others seem to be saying 120 is good as well. But legally you should follow manufacturer specs in case one were to come off or something. I feel good at 120 though.
It depends on their hourly rate, if they do the alignment and if they do it the way I show or if they follow the instructions for a standard Colorado. They should easy be done in less than 2 hrs even with the alignment if they use air tools.
Not without lift. And I think some plastic fender trimming. Check out Brooke and Allen's zr2 video. He shows what he cut out and what his thoughts are on it.
Seems like it would be a lot easier and quicker to just use a spring compressor. You would only have to remove the 3 nuts at the top of the strut mount, slip the spacer in, then reinstall the nuts.
@@BigFrogs4x4 good point. If the shocks are charged that might be difficult if the that 3 bolt flange doesn't come down with the spring. My jeep Cherokee shocks aren't charged, so I didn't think about that until you mentioned compressing the shock. I haven't done this yet, but when I need new tires on my zr2, I will attempt to clear 285/70's. That's why I found this video while searching different leveling kits. When the time comes I'll give my idea a shot, and if it doesn't work, I'll obviously have to take everything apart like you did.
Yes. But the install wont be quite as easy as the zr2. The zr2 arms are longer allowing the struts more room to drop down and out. But it should be pretty close. Maybe 15 more min. Per side. The instructions are pretty good. If you're handy with hand tools or know someone who is to help it can be done in an afternoon.
Im not sure I have any of the same angle. I should have taken 1 but the day of install it was raining. This pic was the next day. Some of my other videos you can see it. I will look.
Unfortunately I have deleted most old pic. I'm not meaning to push another of my videos on you but this one has a few pic of it. Keep in mind the back has about 400lbs of stuff from traveling so it sits a little lower. It does give it a better stance. When my dad saw it after he said " 1 inch did that?" Lol ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QAZjGfucc8k.html
It looks like 99% of people say slight trimming is required if off road or hit hard bumps. Its mostly small corner to trim. Check out this video. He talks about what he had to trim. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wC_0LBxth_4.html
I just found out I won the recent zr2zone.com giveaway for the 1in Rough Country leveling spacers. Do you have any advice for the install that wasn't in the video? How has the truck ride been since you put yours in?
That's AWESOME! CONGRATULATIONS! The only thing not in the video is the driver side inner bolt. It's a bit of a pain to thread down over because there's not much room. A shorter wrench and 1/4 turn at a time. It is quite easy to install. As for the ride?... I honestly think it rides better than stock but haven't tried it off road yet.