So after using it for 1-2 hours, power cable (Wire) got super Warm, after I took the whole unit apart I notice that white + cable is over soldered, I resolder it and after testing it, it is start working perfectly without overheat
I know this is an old video but I wanted to say thank you @Andrew. These saved me $25. I had two old Comfort Zones "Ceramic" heaters nearly identical to the one shown here. One of them worked a little but shut down after minutes and didn't restart. I will share my notes in case it helps someone. I disassembled as you did here and I didn't even need to re-solder (though I was prepared to). I simply opened it up, blew all the dust bunnies out, and used pliers to squeeze the ground connection near the base. I squeeze it to gauge whether there appeared to be too much solder. On a whim, I simply reconnected the plastic insulator. I checked that all other positive and negative connection points were firmly connected. Then put it back together and presto! It worked. I tried it on an even older unit. That one the LED lights up but the heat and fan never come on. That one did not respond to the same treatment. I'll try re-soldering ground and getting the voltmeter out. I work with electronics regular (typically 3.3 and 5V DC) so I know the threat of short circuit or stored capacitance. Very helpful video.
my tip switch fucked up so I just cut it out, I have no kids or pets to knock it over....the thing ya gotta worry about is loose solder in the switch above to control fan alone, 750w anfd 1500w settings ...mine burnt up last night, on low setting not even 1/4 of max, took switch apart, the power wire actually burnt and part of casing, and inside the switch is a sub standard plastic and copper assembly, that is lighter guage than the wires connecting everything, and the switch has push in connections for easy assembly but dont stay firm...assuming one wire is for 750w and second doubles it to 1500, I think directly wiring the power to the 750 setting and use the thermostat to turn on and off may be best... bypassing a shitty fucked up power connection, literally a push in connection where the copper is bent and when ya push a soldered end into the opening the theroy is it traps the wire between the plastic and copper....but, this isnt battery operated shit where this may be allowed....all connrectors need to be marettes or screwed down, not pushed in....junk....full connection is not made with spring loaded copper....copper is soft, heat removes spring ability, over time it changes shape, wires get loose, now you got a fire
ok I didn't buy this one got another at Walmart 10 bucks.. gas line broke and in Pensacola FL you would be surprised how cold it gets this close the ocean eats you up different even if only 50-60 degrees out...thanks
@@gav696 Ok, I checked continuity. All is fine. Fan rotates fine. Cleaned everything w/ air duster. Nothing. Tried a different cord I had lying around, nothing. One more try later on.
I have the same heater and had to fix a broken wire twice. In defense of the heater, it has been tipped over, dropped, and fell off shelf when hot in use.....and is about 10 yrs old. Not too bad for a $15 investment. I highly recommend this heater.
