Thank you so much for this video. Not only did you save me from having to buy a new space heater (and throw out one with a simple problem), but the sense of accomplishment I feel for having fixed something with my own two hands is unreal.
Thank you so much. You were the only one I could find that explained that part thoroughly, and therefore saved me from throwing away a perfectly decent heater making it go to waste. And you saved me $20! Thank you so much again!!
Is the black plastic thing at @8:08 supposed to be its own seperate piece? On mine, its melted onto the metal piece above it. I'm guessing its not supposed to be like that? 😬
Thank you very much! The little copper spring had simply popped out. Popping it back in again fixed the problem! So much better than buying a new heater.
I just bought a used one at a flea market. I got it dirt cheap but untested. It had the same problem with the tip-over button on the bottom. Fortunately that sensor was fine. It was just the broken actual plastic button. I just put a plastic thing in the hole and glued it with super glue. BUT now I gotta fix the rattling problem, when it's on, due to the fact that the genius who designed this heater put "leg" stands only on the front of the heater and not the back.Thankfully I'm sort of a handyman and I know I'll fix that problem too (probably by glueing some makeshift rear "leg" stands).
yikes... might be worth keeping a close eye on that... hard to tell if the component was the culprit or your getting too much current from an issue upstream and this would keep happening and be a fire hazard
This video is EXCEPTIONAL! Like many, I am a "hands ON" learner, but ALSO require a video, writing, picture form, braille (lol), -- the whole sha-BANG! This is a perfect instructional example including ALL OF THE ABOVE. I appreciate the pace and detail used to reassure the audience of just exactly what you're trying to accomplish; which is TO HELP US SOLVE A PROBLEM!👍🏽😇👏🏽
Thank you !! Just fixed a new looking Kenmore heater I found in the dumpster and it was this exact problem. Those switches are fragile. Took some patience and a few tries, but I got it all back together.
My recent space heater wasn't turning on at all (must have gotten a lemon). I was about to toss it, but decided to search RU-vid first. Well, your video gave my heater a new life and my pocket thanks you Brian!
I have to say although I didn't fix it..I did get it working again..with the safety switch not working but I did make a connection in the heater. Thank you for the help.
Hmm... So somehow current is getting to light but not heating element.. sounds like a connector somewhere is loose and just needs to be tightened (not a switch type issue)
You're the greatest! I didn't do this, but I bent off a tiny corner of copper off the tab and jammed it into the gap to complete the circuit. We will have to be careful it doesn't catch on fire by tipping over but that's ok!
For anyone who wants an even quicker fix, and how i fixed my heater in about 2.5 seconds after watching this video. The pressure switch is set horizonal inside the heater, on my heater i guess it was on the top near the knobs. I smacked it on the right side twice, and i heard a click, which im going to assume was the force/pressure from my slap pushing it back into place. I got it on the first try but ultimately their were only 3 other sides i would need to smack. So if you don't feel inclined to take it apart, smack it. It's a pressure switch and being knocked over is probably what knocked it out of place so hitting it again can knock it back into place if you hit it from the right direction.
2 screw drivers (the flat head to pop the case open), 2 q tips and a whisk broom. It was so dirty. I suspected that safety switch too. I fiddled with the assembly to get it in place and checked to see the obvious connectors were seated. 20 minutes. Thanks!
Mine dosent have the safety switch but with mine the air keeps going hot and cold unless i keep settings on half and if it tips over and I pick it up it stays cold for a while untill I keep turning on and off and when I keep it tilted it works fine on full heat what can it be its lloytron brand
The video is fine, I congratulate you on the topic. But! Well, it's definitely not a B+D product, it's Kanai industrial waste, it's a shame that B+D adds its name. A lot of them look like this or have variations on the design, but the inside is garbage, I've only had 5-6 different ones, but they all have the same problem. The contacts are enough, the microswitch against overturning does not work, it cannot handle the 1800-2000W level even in 10C cold, it overheats in good cooling conditions, if it is cleaned, if it is not covered, there is nothing near it, the air flows freely, the fan shaft runs well, it is oiled or siliconed. or, in the best case, it does not have plain bearings. The point is that it overheats, turns off for 5-10s, cools down, then turns on for 5-10s. Or the heat protection burns out, which cannot theoretically be replaced, so it's a waste. The fan blades quickly start rattling, their suspension is a joke. The 600W fan of the last mini version became bearingless after 4 months, so the cooling rate decreased, the 220V 10A 98 °C fuse melted. It is practically irreplaceable for the layman. The cable is short. ------------ Such a device should know +10 °C and continuous 1800-2000W performance, should be sized as such. There is a 26-year-old rack-and-pinion switch, but it has only just been used, after changing the switch, it can easily handle 1800W, where the others fall to their knees. If I replace the fan of the current mini version with a quality one, i.e. one with ball bearings, or with a magnetic one, and I change the heat protection, which burns out if it overheats, it protects itself and prevents a fire. Then I'll be there like a new price. But it doesn't destroy anything either, because it also breaks down very quickly. ------ I saw an Indian video, the electrician only repaired such things, in a terrible quantity. There was one that was the fault of the user, he got so much dust and garbage that he didn't even have a chance to cool himself. This is typical under-planning, you can change it for 6 months, max. 1 year, because it's garbage, we manufacture the garbage, or have it manufactured. I'm sad because 70% of people can't fix it, if it's a service, the repair is so expensive than a new one. More good content uploads, patience! Sorry if I was a lot!
Wow, can’t believe there’s a video for this. I have a little “mainstays home” space heater (target brand?) it’s nothing special but it produces a surprising amount of heat for such a little guy and the tip over switch is the same way, it used to be a little loosey goosey but now it’s just rattling around. I think my issue may be in the mechanical activation of the switch and hopefully not the switch itself or switch guts but it’s nice to see how it works! Any chance of bypassing the switch by just tacking the input and output wires together?
definitely could do that, but then you lose the safety feature that if it tips over it won't shut off... not something i would ever do. not worth the risk
I believe I found a way to buy a pack of them for cheap when I found the part number on the piece itself... But it's been a while now so I don't remember
@@BrianLeeDick Yes, I had done so in the past, but miss placed them. The writing is too small to read on my current bad switch - even with a magnifying glass.
Thanks Brian! I dared to open up the switch after watching your video. I thought it was all glued together and did not want to mess it up. I am glad and appreciate your effort sharing it with everyone. In my case, I had to straighten the thin copper spring as it turned into a ''C" shape facing up. Other thing I noticed inside the switch, the plastic had melted and blackened a little, although it did not affect the overall function.
Dang this is cool but somehow I feel I rather spend 30 bucks then understand all this. I'm not rich but I guess we all make choices but thanks anyway for taking the time to do this for those that want to do it it will probably work I'm guessing!
I'm not aware of an over heat shut off switch... just the tilt switch... over heat mechanism is probably a fuse if i had to guess.. which mine i don't think had it
there is definitely a way, I'm just not willing to do it, cause then if it falls over it's going to throw intense heat into whatever it lands on and i want nothing to do with that
Dude, thanks for this video. Ultimately I had to buy the part in a %7 2-pak, but I learned a lot about the pressure switch I'd removed. No trigger spring, and trigger itself seemed a little warped. In any case, trigger wouldn't go out far enough to be pressed. Interesting little bit of technology, though.
hmmmm... wonder if you have a thermal circuit in it, and something is causing the wires to heat up and trip it... cause it's weird it works for a little bit before shutting off
dang... unfortunately that sounds like the heating element is crapping out.. that's not something I'd mess with personally and bite the bullet and get new one
Thanks for this video, you helped me repair my heater. I swear, it couldn't find any videos or pictures about the inside of the switches, most videos are just people replacing it with a new one. THIS video is the kind of shit people need.
it is a little confusing for a person who never ever did something like that to understand based on a DRAWING ....i freaked out a little and bought a new one... my question is.....WHY NOT FILM THE WHOLE PROCESS???????? WHY THE DRAWING?????? congRalutations that you fixed it because YOU KNOW HOW TO.... but if it is supposed to be a helping video for those who CAN NOT with ABSOLUTE NO EXPERIENCE then WHY ONLY DRAWING??????????? Sorry i am freaking out actually...not the worst video in my life, thaks for that...
I also had no experience fixing these things. I could not film the little pieces, you wouldn't have been able to see anything with hands in the way. The picture was the closest proxy to showing you the actual thing.