I have one of these 6cyl SLT Dakotas (1999) with 300k miles and it still runs great. I like the fact that it's not a very tech-heavy vehicle and replacement parts are pretty reasonably priced. Good solid vehicle made for hard work.
@@johnlee-mx6lk There's no such thing as just removing a fuse. The Check Engine Light (CEL) is a part of the On Board Diagnostics 2 (OBDII) computer-controlled engine management system. There's no by-passing it. If the CEL light is on, then there IS some sort of a problem, even if it seems like there isn't. Gotta get yourself a code reader or diagnostic scan tool & find out what code or codes are being thrown. Use the code information to begin diagnosing the problem so that you can fix it. Since it's now 2023, a 2008 is an old vehicle, by automotive standards. It's 15 years old. Automobiles are designed to fail/disintegrate every 10 years. It's called "planned obsolescence". Anyhow, your Dakota could have just one, or a multitude of possible problems. Some common older vehicle issues include: A possible overheating condition (check coolant levels, temp & fan operation); A random or specific # cylinder misfire (a long-overdue ignition system tune up is often the culprit - replace distributor cap, rotor, plugs & wires... OR pinpoint which coil pack is defective/failing, if the vehicle's ignition system uses the more "modern" coil-on-plug setup) Again, don't overlook the spark plugs. Bad spark plugs will often contribute to killing an ignition coil; Evaporative emissions control issues (often a purge valve); EGR system issues (often a plugged or failed EGR valve); Leaking vacuum line(s), often creating slightly higher idle RPM & a lean combustion condition; A defective catalytic converter problem (often a "plugged"/inefficient, or completely missing/removed problem on older vehicles). The aforementioned possible problems are just some of the more common issues I've seen over the yrs. Your vehicle's actual issues could be one, several, or none of the above. The key is to properly DIAGNOSE the problem & then fix it correctly, instead of just throwing parts at it. You'll also save yourself a lot of headaches & money, in the long run. If you aren't both mechanically inclined AND diagnostically savvy, you're gonna either have to learn, or pay a good, experienced auto technician to help you out.
@@turbodiesel4709 Thank you for the heads up. Just made a trade for the 2003, I live in a trailer. Found myself without a pickup to pull with. So sadly I gave up my 2008 Mazda 3.But I'm happy so far.
My 97 with the 3.9 has 226k. It barely has enough power to get out of its own way, but it runs great and gets way better gas mileage than my Silverado. It's a simple little truck, and I love it as a daily beater.
I'm buying a 02 Dakota with a 3.9 engine from my cousin for$3,500 118k Miles and it runs pretty smoothly I'm not a dodge guy .. you think that's a good deal?
Far too many people think spending a huge amount on a newer vehicle will solve all their problems. It will just bring different problems. Just think of all your customer could do with the money that have saved by fixing up the old truck. They could do a complete tour of Alaska and take a cruise.
crappy tech and delayed actions when driving a car with a central computer. I like to have JUST enough computer to tell me whats wrong and that's it. it should NEVER 'help' me drive.
Cylinder heads are turning out to be real garbage on the 3.7 and the 4.7. Better budget for a valve and seat job in the heads and a timing chain and tensioner setup in there as well.....
@Tommy Caldwell just bought an 07 dakota with the 4.7 V8, runs like a dream, no complaints other than a busted exhaust hanger. Puts out 0 engine codes and even the emissions system works. Although mine is at 85000 miles
Worst I've ever had to do to my old Dakotas was change a water pump @ 130k miles. Just change the oil and stay on top of wear-and-tear items. You'll be good for hundreds of thousands of miles.
I have an 03 2wd with a 4.7 v8 and it has 180000 miles on it and it's only had an alternator go bad and the blower motor relay go bad and I bought it new. It's runs so smooth. I've done maint on it but those are the only 2 unexpected issues I've had. Best vehicle I've ever owned.
I have an 02 with 186k and the last of the magnum series engine. Runs flawlessly. The 04 i have, lost its cylinder head valve seats out of the casting at 109k miles. Having the heads redone with better quality valve seats with more interference fittment, and I expect it will live a long time after that
People seem hesitant to put money into an older vehicle... if it's a solid vehicle in good shape, it's well worth it. Even if the repair exceeds the "value" of the vehicle, since the cost will pay for itself over time. $/time
average new truck payment is 500$ a month.....i had to rebuild my tranny in my truck for 1,700$....engine, frame and body are all still good and it passes inspection no problem..i only paid 2,000$ for the truck with the plow setup... well worth it....500$ a month x 12 is..6,000$ a year. ...4-5 years of payments..that math does not work for me.
My 03 Dakota crew cab 4x4 still running good with 230,000 miles and holding good value. These trucks hold their value really well at least in my area. Most still sell for over $5,000 long as they are maintained well. But my truck also had a high sticker price of $39,800 back when it sold new in 03.
@Daniel Keyser thats about right for the general repairs for a truck of the age and miles. Mine with 230,000 miles i spent $2,500 on it this year counting tires but now its back in solid shape. It passed our strict state inspection with flying colors. With the cost of these trucks going higher probably if i get 2 more years. Im seriously considering doing a complete rebuild engine and transmission versue spending $10,000 or more on another used truck. In my area you just cant get anything thats in solid condition for less. Of course i will have to weld in some body panels to replace some rust by then. But i have lots of sheet metal and i have a good commercial welder. So rebuilding should be cheaper than buying and replacing. I do love my Dakota even though they have gotten a bad reputation.
@@kenjett2434 no it didn't. Their fully loaded maxed out optioned top or the line RT model was $26,450 in 2003. The maxed out 4 door 4x4 was just a hair less than 25k sticker price. Let's stop and think about it logically for a minute. Alright now how stupid does a $40,000 Dodge Dakota sound let alone in 2003? That's what a new Vette cost back in 03. Gtfoh. $39,800 for a new Dakota back in 2003 lmao How high are you?
@@JMohler you dont know jack i got the original sticker when i purchased the truck. All the original paperwork was with the owners manual. Therefore i know exactly what it was. Also my Dakota was fully loaded including towing package and all. Your also wrong about prices of other vehicles of that time. A Dodge Viper would set you back over $70,000 and Corvette's wasnt far behind as they were competing models.
I also have a 2003 Dakota with 107k on it. The rear limited slip differential went bad at about 105k, symptoms where clunking noises then found metal pieces on magnet. Steering shafts went at about 60k. Was just told the ball joints should be replaced soon. Another common problem in rust belt areas are rotted out brake lines, broken exhaust manifold bolts which cause exhaust fumes in cab, and front wheel bearing hubs. I have a loud rubbing noise coming from rear brake area when backing up, sometimes without being on brakes which are new. Thanks for the video.
Sadly, it's not just Dodge Dakotas that have issues. It's ALL modern vehicles everywhere! Combination of inadequate unreliable emissions control garbage, along with the average consumer neglect of preventative maintenance on their vehicles is what predominately leads to the majority of vehicular problems. (I too have been a mechanic for many, many years.) That said, I sure wish vehicles were still built like the 1970's vehicles. SIMPLE and effective. They can take all this modern failure-prone electrical and electronic crap and cram it.
Non greaseable ball joints and balljoints that are riveted to the control arm... ok you replaced the joints after grinding the rivets but the bushings? For an extra $20 you get a whole new arm, bolt in ball joints and new pressed in bushings.
@@NXT_LVL : Lots of variables come into play for this. Sometimes it's cost-effective to replace the entire control arm assy & sometimes not. Every vehicle & situation will vary, based on physical part cost, replacement (labor) cost, amount of overall component wear, amount of rust/rot on part, as well as entire vehicle structure, and more. What's good for one person's situation may not always be what is best for another's. I've done complete control arm replacements & I've done just ball-joint replacements. It really all depends on the specific situation.
@@p.richardssr.3137 : Excellent little trucks if properly maintained. My uncle had a similarly equipped 1988 Dodge Dakota. He put over 300,000 miles on it & hardly ever anything beyond basic maintenance. Good ole NYS rust, a blown head gasket, and hitting a deer on the highway finally took it out of service, nearly 20 years later. Like most older Mopar stuff, it was a great little truck.
Your other video helped me repair my Durango's HVAC/Blower motor. So I looked at some of your other videos to see if you Really knew what you were talkin' about. And... You do ! lol ... I watched you do a walk-around this Dakota and ... You are the best at diagnosing repairs. You are the first mechanic that I totally agrred with on everything during your Dakota walk-around. Thanks once again for your help.
2004 Dodge Dakota owner here (225k mi), and I can confirm this video hit some of the issues I had. The vehicle is solid if you look out for potential problems and fix them early.
My 2004 dodge dakota has two codes i can not figure out whats wrong. Small evap leak , and thermostate rasionality . Had just replaced everything on front of the motor after water pump repacement and radiator fan and thermostate and that whole front cover is new to cause one bolt was stripped for the thermostate and broke off so replaced the whole thing . Anyway i dont know what else to check or change and no one else can figure it out. 170000 on it.
@@kimmiekayb small evap leak - make sure fuel cap is tight. if it returns, have the cap leak checked, and also check the evap hoses, specifically the ones in the engine bay, and the ones in front of the fuel tank. the other code, I do not get it. can I get a code?
@@kimmiekayb This one took me some time to understand. thermostat rationality - while the engine is cold, check radiator and make sure there is no air. after running the vehicle for 10 minutes, check one of the radiator hoses by squeezing it. if it is hard (it will be hot if it is), the temperature gauge should be reading right in the middle. if temperature gauge reads at or near C, check the wiring which goes to the temperature sender. if OK, replace temperature sender. if the radiator hose is not pressurized, check and see if there are any obvious signs of a leak. also check the oil, and make sure it looks normal. once the engine cools back down, radiator should still be full. this code might also come on if you didn't use the 195 degree thermostat, or if you are somewhere which has very low outdoor temperatures.
I have this same truck and randomly found this video. Very informative and straightforward. I have a P0300 code that I was looking for a fix for, but I will definitely check into the issues mentioned. I'm about to hit 175K on mine & I used to have a 1988 that I put almost 450K on.....
I'm on my 2nd Dakota, the first I sold at 365K miles and my 2nd is at 307K miles and counting!! My current Dakota is a 2003 SLT+. It has the 4.7L auto transmission. I LOVE my Dakota!! It has a 10 bolt rear end with a 392 gear. She's still a strong truck. I plan to keep her and possibly make her a project in the future. The issue I had with the right rear brakes was a collapsed flex line, the expensive thing about that part is it's crimped onto the hard line and is a dealer item. I'm probably about to replace the fuel pump, I had to replace it on my first Dakota as well (this was done at 312K miles). I wished they still build the Dakota, it's a GREAT truck!! I'm going to keep my current one probably until i'm just not able to drive anymore!
i am thinking of buying an 03 tacoma for 5k and only 80k miles.. but i dont know anything about trucks really. do you think its worth it or should i buy something easier for a bit more money? i drive across the country alot
I’ve met so many ppl that have issues with there Dakota’s and how bad the 4.7 is. I have an 04 and I haven’t had any issues with it at all. I guess people are just super rough on there trucks. Everything you’ve mentioned on this truck, I replaced before they had a chance to go bad. Ty for the video. It was very helpful.
I have a 2000 Dakota 3.9 that I just retired at 439,000 miles, original engine and transmission. Put her through the ringer in my younger years. Never any major issues. Just things like he said in the video. Now have a 2004 Dakota 3.7 with 122,000 miles. If this truck will be 1/2 as good as the other one, will be a good truck for a long time. Dakotas are built better than Rams, and worth fixing these minor problems if and when they occur.
2000 4.7l slt durango- at 150k had erratic rpms at highway speeds. Replaced throttle position sensor. Fixed. Replaced all four shocks at 160k. At 190k had low speed engine shutoff(stop signs, slow turns etc) and occasional rough idle. Replaced manifold absolute pressure sensor. Problem solved. At 200k I just replaced my brake master cylinde and booster and bled brakes. Previous brake worker didn't grease booster to brake linkage, and it acted like booster failure. Rear drums have a slight lockup, so now it is time to rebuild rear brake drums. This has been a great suv- one must do the routine maintenance per Dodge's recommendations. They will last. Of course the plugs, wires, thermostat, brakes and other routine stuff done when it was time. I'm not a great mechanic and these are the things I've done in my shop. Thanks to car doctor and others, it takes the mystery out of some moderate maintenance. Good video.
I think most are honest just a few that are really just incompetent and maybe a couple who are greedy and dishonest. It really gives a bad rap to all the great techs out there. Thanks for watching!
if you want a smaller repair bill from the mechanic KNOW what is wrong with your vehicle in the first place and then present the mechanic with what the problem is and tell them you want it fixed and if they try to upsell you on tires /wipers or anything else run away from that shop, 2nd example, however if the mechanic has a better idea of what is wrong let them do the work and if you cant afford it go to harbor freight buy some cheap tools then buy the part in question and replace it. also a bluetooth obd2 scanner can help TONS for like $70ish for a good one that will last and provides significant data on the trouble codes, these are simple things you can do on your own and will save you thousands in certian scenarios but sometimes the mechanic might be the better option if you do not want to invest your spare time researching your vehicle and understanding it better. with all that said take whatever you want from this comment. at the end of the day sometimes its better to let the pros take care of it
I love your video, i own a 2002 dosge dakota 3.9 manual and have owned it for almost 6 years now. When i got it i was at 150,00 miles and i had to replace almost everything on your list. A few other problems were ecu failure, air conditioner evaporators, air bags and back window seal leaks. Love this truck, paid 2,500 for it at the time and have put almost 4,000 into it. Wont need another truck for a good 10 more years or so
2002 Dodge Dakota owner, here. Several times I've had issues with driver side window in door failing to roll back up. And now I've got issues with passenger side rear door window failing to roll back up. I would like to see a video on how to remove the door panels to see what is going on, inside of these doors. Thanks, Johnny!
That's a great point to be made. I only see them when they are broken. For the first few years after production I have no idea about the flaws since they are covered under warranty. After 5-10 years it become more obvious to the independent shops like mine. The true test is personal experience of owners by knowing all the things that work as intended! Blessings today!
I have a 98 Durango that I bought used with 160k on it. I have experienced most of those problems in the twelve years I've owned it as I live in the salt belt. I can't bring myself to part with it though because it is a really solid vehicle. I also use OE when I can afford to especially with the water pump, fuel pump and transmission fluid. The body is pretty rough now with 200k but I'm not giving up on her yet. Thanks for the info.
I hear you about "when you can afford it". My wife's Dakota has had its share of repairs. But I buy from Rockauto.com because they are way cheaper for quality parts. I am not a mechanic but I try to do our vehicle repairs by the help of RU-vid videos. If you ever have to replace the main computer there are companies online that will send you a remanufactured one and you'd send them back your old one. I paid $200 and works great. Good luck with your truck
190k miles on mine. Common failure on dakotas..... That damn steering wheel tank that leaks. Inner tie rods-outer tie rods, door lock actuators, radiator, and recently heater core. All fixed at home. A pain in the arse
That's the problem with all machines, if you don't have them checked on a regular basis and minor problems fixed, it becomes a money nightmare later on. I like the way you help your customers by fixing only the urgent stuff first, it gives them time to pull there finger out and get the money together for the other problems :-D Hmm no grease nipples on the universal joint needle bearings, no way to maintain them without full dissasembly, shame as a regular greasing would have slowed the death down.
Agree completely. I will say that the customer saved a lot of money over the years by not doing anything but if they want continued service they will need to dump some cash into it now. Those grease fittings are great if people actually use them :)
amazing video. a good amount of what you mentioned has been replaced however you did miss the leaky transmission pan. it caused idling issues and once that level was able to stay consistent it has been very reliable. we'll be getting a clean fuel system next along with injectors from a 09 dodge challenger if they fit. they're not old injectors just slightly used since we replaced the injectors on the challenger with slightly larger ones but it still gets a lean code due to the larger air intake. so cool hearing that psshh noise from the air getting sucked in. (it's not a turbo). I'd like to mention when you replace the ball joints to get BOLT ON joints and crank them down. makes repair way easier if something occurs. that did happen when a wheel flew off and broke 4 of the 6 studs. glad we had a performance and very solid sway bar to withstand most of that impact but the lower ball joint was still damaged. shout out to all care automotive in Troy, MO who repaired it at no extra cost because at first we thought it was because they used air tools to tighten the lugs back on. a month later though my grandma noticed the jeeps lugs were loose and we realized that it wasn't all care automotive's fault. oh I forgot to mention they even delivered the vehicle to us to our address out in the middle of no where. hope to get the entire truck restored and it'll join the old classics in it's own era like old 60s to 70s antiques. even 80s is now considered antiques. two more years and i'll be able to get the proper plates saying that this vehicle is old and rusty like how i'm going to be in 30 years. recently had it dynoed at State Technical College of Missouri (i'm in the associates of applied science machining program there) and both foot pounds and hp were around I think 200 or 250. I don't have the results with me.
I used to make tons of money doing balljoints as an inspection mechanic on these when there were still many of them haunting the roads here in Pennsylvania.
My dad's got an 06 with over 200,000 miles. Was very problematic a while back. Clutch went out, Coil packs were screwing with the engine, but other than that it's stood the test of time in the couple of years he's had it.
I have a 2004 Dakota and love this truck 266500 and still going strong I sook it in green rust check every year because I live in the rust belt only minor to none rust so far only complaint is a noisy valve lash adjusters
The Dodge dakota I own has 60k miles and stalls all the time. Every mechanic we take it to cannot figure out the problem because it is not all the time it only happens when it’s not at the service shop. If you are considering buying a Dodge Dakota, there’s a reason why they stopped making them they are major pieces of crap!
On my '99 Dakota I replaced shocks, u-joints, tires, complete brakes front and back. I have an issue with my HVAC controller, but I'll watch your other video for that. It seems like you've hit all the points I've had problems with on my truck. Notably my ball joints were fine. I had weird issues with power loss that I couldn't diagnose, but it fixed itself after a week or two. I wish my truck had four wheel disc brakes.
Idle air control valve on the back of the throttle body on the Gen 2 Dakotas.. It's not a great design and kinda difficult to get to, to remedy the problem I put a crank case breather with a filter in it so it's not sucking all those oily fumes from the crank case and feeding it back through the throttle body and coat everything inside the throttle body in a film of oil, Before I did that I had to replace the IAC valve twice a year, now I only have to do it maybe once a year/year and a half, and that's only because of the amount of miles I drive a year
Nice pointers there Tim. The best advice I give to people is ask an independent shop owner like you what's their thoughts are on a vehicle prior to buying a vehicle . You work on everything so you see it all. Cheers
Good advise as well Steve. IM here as their advocate in the purchase process. I usually don't make money performing these checks since I spend way more time then I get paid but I have to deal with it down the road if they end up buying it. Its a rare case when I don't find a lot wrong with a vehicle during a buyers inspection. Even if it has a few problems at least they know what they are getting into and they can negotiate from a position of power in knowledge. God bless you this week friend!
4.7L 2002 RWD 2 door sport has been rock solid. one bad O2 sensor, trans flush at 120k with sluggish shifting during winter months, pulled the cooling line to the radiator and pumped it clean, filled up, and let it run circulating it for a while and topped it off. I need to pull the pan and trans filter still, but running like it did when I got it. did the master cylinder for good measure (burnt up my brakes on a trip when a caliper seized up in DC traffic), radiator about 120k, ball joints (13 bucks each) a bunch and calipers 2 times (50 bucks each), and one front end bearing (25 bucks, bought 2 in preparation for 2nd going, so far ok), but doing it myself saved me more than the 5k I spent on the truck. Got some wear on my shocks, be about 200 bucks. All in all best 5k I ever invested. few minor issues, seat lever broke, the head curtain falling, passenger window switch has issues, and the driver window track is giving me some issues now binding on going up.
Yeah my 95 is a beast. I just had to replace the fuel pump tune it up and clean the carb. Now it rides like a dream. When did your transmission go out?
@@mikew9096 Actually scared about my 95 now. like a week after I posted that, My headlights and brakelights stopped working. The doorlocks and the brake pedals both fuck with the rpm gauge. I am scared I have a wiring issue and Im afraid to take her to the shop
Donovan Shovan the fear is real, I just spent 1650.00 last week, the engine light just came on this week. so far this year nearly 5,000 spent on my 08 and it's still leaking from the rear main seal.
The way that truck looks I would guess you guys don't salt in AK. But here in Detroit we thrive on destroying vehicles & our roads with over excessive salting😥 But everything in this video is on point..!
I have an '03 Dakota and I'm kinda there with everything you've hit on. There are a few things I would add that seem to be common on the Dodge Dakota forum that I have experienced as well. The body control module failed on me. Get a new replacement. I cheaped out and after a few hundred miles the one I took out of a junker started randomly dinging every few miles (they apparently have cold solder joint issues). The biggest pain I've encountered was a leaking thermostat housing. Took a while to remove everything and even get to the leak. I did have to replace the sway bar links too. They're sealed, and the "nice" Monroe replacements with the Zerk fittings don't work because of clearance issues. It's on it's third water pump, the valve cover gaskets were replaced because I was tired of oil leaks (which did the trick), and I've replaced every single EVAP hose with armored fuel line because I was tired of messing with split hoses. The molded hose at the canister was replaced twice in two years for splitting before I threw my hands up and replaced it with two separate size lines and a barb transition. I replaced front rotors at 50k because they were warped beyond belief. Overall, I can't say that it's a particularly dependable truck and it's kind of "lumpy" to drive. I've got 75,000 on it, mostly because I kind of dread using it and only drive it often enough to keep things moving and from dryrot.
Just got rid of a 2001 Dakota Sport, 4x4 with 4.7 and automatic. Engine had 230.000 miles and although it burned a bit of oil it was still strong. Loved the engine. Transmission....eh, I think it was the RE47 or something that was only used in the 4.7 and only for about 5 years. It finally died and the rebuild cost was $3000 and although I loved the truck I couldn't see putting that much in to it so I bought a 94 Ranger with OHC v6 and 5 speed with less than 60,000 miles, XLT from a friend. Love the little Ranger but still miss my old Dakota. Thanks for posting.
The Car Doctor! Has solved my questions 6 times, I want to thank you for the videos and the time how you share the people the important of every pin point of questions also the vision of understanding the vehicles 👍 subscribe and Likes everyone I Highly recommend it!!
01 Dakota Sport, heater motor, heater control x2, rear end (towed in gear) 2 right headlights , 4-5 exhaust systems (rust belt) , shocks , front end x3 (only 1 grease fitting) and brake pad s , rotor s , shoe s ect . My moto run into ground or body fall s off!
I really appreciate this video> I recently acquired a 00 Dakota from someone who didn't take care of it. I have been pro-actively trying to do preventative maintenance. This video opened my eyes to a couple over sights . You are very knowledgeable and thorough. Thank you. +
I just replaced the upper and lower control arms on my 2002 Dodge Durango 4X4, which came with the ball joints already installed, as well as the control arm bushings. I also had to replace the torsion bars, because they were rusted to the point that I had to remove them attached to the lower control arms, they were fused together with rust. While I was at it, I replaced the tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, and shocks. It seems everything you said was wrong with this one was exactly what was wrong with mine. I found it much easier to just replace everything at once, since you have to remove everything anyhow.
$5K, which is still about ONE-FIFTH to ONE-SIXTH of a new replacement vehicle. Do the math. Oh, and btw, no way is he getting a $5K bill. Probably around $1,500 or so at the most, and that's only IF they were to fix everything he's mentioned right now. (Which they are not going to do.) BTW, spending $1,500 for some much needed overdue service/repair work is nothing at all for any older 4x4 truck.
Any vehicle, no matter what age, will have issues at some point. Proper care, maintenance, and repairs when something does go wrong will enable a vehicle to last. My '06 Dakota, bought four years ago at 140K, has been dependable with few issues. And it does help to live in an area with no rust issues, like south Texas. ;-)
early gen dodge dakotas have problems main are the engine harness on computer its location in engine bay is one the heat other is vibration ..mine currently has 528,000 + other mechanically are uppper ball joint.screw in get frozen mext wheel bearings..but cheap to replace..extemded cab center hub support on drive shaft
I didn't even know they put 360 engines in Dakotas. I bet it's a strong truck, as my Dakota with a 318 is almost too much power for such a little truck.
Disc brake inspection is much simpler if you remember a couple of key facts. If both the inboard and outboard pads on each wheel are worn evenly, most generally the caliper anchor/slides, caliper piston and flexible rubber brake hose are working properly. If the inboard pad is more worn than the outboard, you can count on either the caliper being bad or the hose has deterioration inside it that's acting as a check valve basically, applying the brake but not releasing completely. If the rotors have been used beyond their minimum thickness, which is cast on the surface of the rotor usually on the outer edge by the cooling fins, it tends to cause the caliper piston to overextend when the pads start getting thin, in turn causing the piston to not retract back into the caliper bore. That causes that particular brake to start overheating, boiling the brake fluid and totally trashing both the caliper and hose, and the cost of your brake job just skyrocketed, since calipers and hoses need to be replaced in pairs, meaning both front or both rear. On the other hand, if the outboard pad is more worn than the inboard, then you can bet the slides aren't free to allow the back and forth movement of the caliper when and after the brakes are applied, causing faster wear and possibly even leading to other component failure. Another little known fact is that when your brake system is all brand new and the master cylinder reservoir is filled to the max line, you can keep tabs on your pads and drum brake shoe condition.. As the pads and rotors wear, more fluid is required, therefore causing the fluid level in the master cylinder to drop. When the fluid level gets closer to the minimum line a complete system inspection should be performed, checking the pad and rotor wear as well as looking for any leaks in the system. No leaks will be the indicator that the pads are most likely worn to the squealers if so equipped. That's what the speedy lube, quick oil change techs simply do not understand, and when they see a low fluid level they're all to quick to grab the can of fluid and top the reservoir to the max line, inadvertently voiding the wear indicator. I prefer to service my own vehicles, but if for some reason I have to take it to the speedy guys, it's always necessary to specifically tell them to leave the brake fluid alone. They're more than welcome to look at the brake system and look for any leaks, but aside from that to just leave it alone. Incompetency abounds these days, and the ignorance ends up costing the paying customers instead of the jack wagons who screwed something up in the first place. When replacing rotors with new ones still in the box, they should ALWAYS be put on the brake lathe and checked for excessive run-out. New rotors are often times dropped, thrown or bounced in manufacturing, transportation, warehousing, retailer or the technician, and as bad as it sucks to have to turn brand new, cross-hatched rotors and take any material off before ever even being installed on the vehicle, but checking it personally will at least minimize that off the wall chance that there's pulsation under braking during the test drive. Even as little as .005" run-out can be felt in both the brake pedal and the seat of your britches when applied. I've always been a perfectionist by nature, and I absolutely hate having to do anything twice, especially when it could've very easily been avoided in the first place. Good video by the way! Liked and subscribed. Safe and happy wrenching!
I have an 06 Dakota...had it since 2010 and only replaced ball joints...nothing else has ever been replaced , just did routine maintenance like oil changes, radiator flush, I have 150,000 miles on it and still driving it!
Anchorage roads are clean and dry year 'round. Except between the end of June and the beginning of June. Then there's Summer, that week in June where it gets almost close to 85° F.
I have an old 93 dodge dakota. Here is my story/question. Came from the store shut off the engine. Took the groceries inside came back and crank it up once and everything went dead with the car. I knew i got a loose battery cable cuz i been meaning to fix it for sometimes. Got out tight the terminal went and crank it 8x or more but no start. It will turn over but it wont stay on. I got out spray my carb with easy starter fluid but same story. Finally i pull all my spark plug including the line to the coil and put them back on and it only took one crank and the sucker start up like new. Now here is my question. With that first crank that i lost power halfway into it, did it somehow reset my ignition coil, or there is another problem somewhere looming over me that havent come to past?
Decent looking Dakota...worth the cost of keeping it up to snuff with a good , fair and honest mechanic....better than paying 28,000 for a new one. he knows what he has now...
It used to be, but nowadays, everyone is so poor that we have to stretch our vehicles to 200 or 300K + before we can afford to give up on them. Newer vehicles are too overpriced and too expensive to repair when they break.
Charging the customer for new rear calipers and rotors when the issue was probably just the slide pins, he even said it could be just the slide pins. New pads and new slide pins and the rear brakes would be back working. $40 in parts vs $200, typical mechanic. Other than that, everything was pretty spot on.
As a Maine resident, I thought our issues would be similar as Alaska, but from what I see here, about the only common issue is with the 02 sensor. We have major rust issues with frame and suspension components, failure of the rear spring shackles are pretty common, along with automatic transmission heat problems. I reccommend anyone putting a snow plow on a Dakota to invest in a good transmission cooler, as well as a transmission temp aftermarket guage. The quickest way to kill a $6,000 transmission is to operate it overheated for just 15 minutes.
Great video Tim! I recently watched your video on replacing upper and lower ball joints on the F250/ F350. It's a great video! I learned alot watching, and you made it look pretty easy but I know that, that's because you have many years of experience. I'm gonna replace the ball joints on my 03 F250 super duty instead of bringing it to a Ford dealership and getting financially raped. Thanks again Tim!
Thank you for the complements, I appreciate that. With the right tools and some patience youll be saving a ton of money on those ball joints. Assuming its a 4X truck just get the seal driver tool and the Astro ball jont master set and a torque wrench and youll be good to go. Blessings friend!
02 4x4 in Virginia. Minor rust, as for repairs= all 4shocks, rear spring shackles, front wheel hubs, muffler and tailpipe, gas tank straps, radiator and hoses, cap, wires, rotor and plugs, headliner, valve cover gaskets, intermediate steering shaft, fuel inlet pipe and general fluids. Needs ball joints now. Has 170k on a 3.9L V6 with a 5 speed. Engine is whisper quiet and rides great. Good truck but you need to be able to fix it yourself or it would get crazy expensive.
And at least every 2 years after, if not less. I started buying the better ones and doing them myself. Its been a year now since I did that, seem to be holding up much better.
Damn! I'm glad your not fixing my 98 Dak! I'd have to mortgage my house! But lemme tell ya 'bout rust. My truck is at a shop right now having all the brake lines replaced and the paint is the only thing blocking the light between the inner and outer front fender wells! BUT, I love this truck. Bought it used with 46K, 318 4spd auto, 1/2 ton, 2 dr SLT. Wish they made them still.
Good "little" trucks. Just enough meat to keep up with the bigger trucks. I've got 235,000 miles on my 03 now. Mine has the 4.7l. The first 200k the truck needed NOTHING major. the factory battery even went 11 years. It's only had one replacement battery its whole life. I'm in the process of doing ball joints for the first time. Not too bad a job other than drilling out rivets. I've been chasing evap codes around since it was new. Cracked hoses here and there, new NVLD switch two weeks ago. I had the blower resistor fail in the lowest fan speed setting (highest resistance) but it's been fine since I replaced it for two years now. I replaced the u joints in the rear drive shaft at 212k. My rear pinion seal weeps a little bit, but I just make sure to top up the fluid every couple months and change it if need be. Brake hard line to the rear burst on me not too long ago. Had to buy a coil of line and make another myself. Couldn't find a preformed line. I ended up doing all the hard lines from stem to stern. Engine and trans are still smooth and quiet. Paint is in good shape. A little rust under the rockers, but nowhere visible. This truck has been one of the most reliable vehicles I've ever owned. I don't see why it won't make it to 300,000 miles.
Rust belt (Ohio) past issues with a 99 Dakota sport 4X4, 158k miles; Muffler rusted to pieces, ECM died once, exhaust manifold cracked (bad metal), upper ball joints replaced twice, lower ball joints once, water pump 3 times (5.2L), both speed sensors crapped out, hood is the only body part that did not rust (only part using galvanized metal), headlight switch driving light function, speakers (all but one died), outer tie rods needed replaced twice, stock AC condenser housing always cracks and leaks, body rust is completely unbelievable (mainly due to the way the fender flairs are mounted) yet the frame still looks new, bumpers rust completely (they sell aftermarket factory look alikes with better steel), AC compressor died twice (clutch), both CV axles replaced once, fuel sending unit sticks (haven't replaced this yet). I have owned this vehicle since 2002.
My 98 Dakota has had all these problems. Those upper and lower joints were tough for me. i just replaced my o2 sensors to pass the stupid emissions test, but now my check engine light is finally off! 200,861 miles as of today!
Seems like good advice for any older or higher mileage vehicle. I guess I was looking for more technical common issues for Dakota's. Great video though.
Great video as a owner of a Dakota I’ve never had any of those problems. Most common problems I’ve had with my 99 5 speed Dakota is the ecu went to shit and the crank shaft position sensor went bad and from what I know these two problems are the most common for dodge Dakota but they where not thrown up there.
168,000 on a 2005 dakota runs great after rebuilting transmission from a missed clogged radiator. Transmission failed from overheating. Rebuilt cooling system around 128,000 shortly after transmission was rebuilt. The overheat transmission light kept going off. After three techs, I discovered by looking into the radiator and seeing it partly plugged. Except for EGR valves its a great truck. 4.7 is tough truck engine made for longivity and not top power. Only issue I have is the cup holder location and the gear select handle, when I hit every time.
I've got the same truck. Bought it new. 180k now. New transmission at 120k. Didn't know there was a transmission warning light. Other than that, I've only had to rebuild the front end. Ball joints are not going to last 150k on any vehicle. Anyway, no rattling and no leaks on the driveway after all this time.
Bought an 07 Dakota with around 130K for $300 no start no crank and a bent leaf from a city plow snag on rear tire while parked on street in blizzard. After changing obvious issues like waterpump, then starter, she fired up, sounded excellent. But another obvious issue was the rust everywhere broken exhaust was hanging in pieces, and gasket leaks valve covers and oil pan wet spots from pinholes which when I pressed on felt like it was going to give, oil pan is toast, but interior is minty and equipped with decent aftermarket audio/video sub etc, she’ll make a fine plow truck at the very least, guy was hit with major bills in the several thousands to fix the aforementioned issues and he kept up with everything else, so a lot of new parts brakes were new etc, he just didn’t want to spend any more money and was ready to junk it so I paid about what they usually do for driving into the junkyard and weighing as scrap. Spring is $160 new going to try junkyard before ordering, oil pan $49 with gasket and that exhaust going to get patched, that’d be 1K total and a total of 3 to 6hrs for a bruised 4x4 that runs perfectly, just need a plow. Good luck suckers!
I bought my 2000 Sport club cab for $1,300 a few years ago. It now has 298k miles. I’ve put a water pump, all four ball joints (had the OEM ones as I had to drill out the rivets at about 250k), tie rod ends and about to put in bushings. That’s about it. Runs great! Oh, someone ran into the back of me going down the freeway and fled. My insurance paid me $1,400 for the damages. So, I guess I didn’t pay anything fit it, LOL.
just bought a used one and wondered why so cheap because it looked fine and drove fine and ran fine. If I had seen this video before i got it and a lot of other reviews I would have checked the ball joints and shocks a little better cause sure enough there shot.(It was a short test drive on smooth roads} but anyway rest of it looks good. and thank you for your review. I'll keep my eye on that stuff since it has 148,000 on it. did you know they were recalled for air bag problems? I've got to get mine in. I dont like driving around with grenades in front of me! ........Have a good one buddy
I have a 2004 Dakota SLT w/85K. I love my truck! Thanks for the great video, l only wish l had watched it before my harness, resistor, blower problems. Boy l went through hell with that. Other than that, I haven't had any other repairs, just maintenence.
97 Dakota 5.2l 4sp auto 3.92 gears. 15 to 21 mpg. 285,000 miles never touched engine, transmission or rear end. Never a check engine light. change oil at 7500 miles, trans and rear end at 50,000 miles. Its been a great truck. Wouldn't mind a 2000 quad cab but those 4.7s sound like trouble. Newer is not always better.
I have a four post lift and boy that rolling lift to get the wheels off the ramps is a must. I don't have one yet but I think I'll start saving my pennies. Great shake down on those Dodges.
Thanks, these jacks were fairly inexpensive from Greg Smith Equipment. Check them out: www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-RJ-6000-Rolling-Jack-Air-Hydraulic_2
I bought a new 1999 Dakota and right at 7,000 miles , I had the rear transmission seal go out . Luckily , it was covered under the manufacturer’s warranty , so all I was out was the time and inconvenience of scheduling the repair .
I paid $500 for my little 96 dak only major issue thats crept up is my 42re transmission said it doesnt need neutral, reverse, or park. Otherwise little v6 truck is happy and reasonably fun to drive
i cant believe how rust free this dakota is! must be nice up in alaska. meanwhile in the DC area everything gets a nice coat of rust after just a few years
