I just got a basket case LTX1040. I stuck a 17 horse briggs in it until I can really look at the kholar engine. Im changing the vairable pulley and all the springs and going to put OEM belts in it. I cant afford a new riding mower but I can spend a thousand bucks making something good and I also enjoy doing it (Im retired). A new mower is about 4,000 and if you put it on credit your paying forever on it. If the Kholar motor is rebuildable I will do it and if not Ill go searching around and see what options fall my way.
I really love how these mowers look and its body but I hate how the engine is set up and how the deck rusts in that similar spot on most of the LT1000 mowers
You had my attention up to point where you used JB Weld on the engine block. How did the JB Weld hold up, through the vibrations, and heating and cooling cycles? I suspect the JB could not seal it for any length of time.
There was still a little bit of seepage. I did another one a little later and sealed it from both the inside and outside and cleaned it better and it turned out much better. I checked on it a few weeks ago and it has minimal if any seepage. If I had a welder that would do aluminum I would have done that instead.
@@codycanon1965 The proper fix is new drag links and bushings, but these drag links are adjustable so you can adjust them near where they attach to the front end to make it drive straight forward but have toe in going backward, instead of buying all new drag links.
My LT1022 is 20 years old (bought new from a CC dealer) and I've had no problems other than a belt breaking. Regular maintenance with OEM parts is key.
