Also a big risk today is not buying your spark plugs from an authorized reseller. Counterfeit spark plugs are out there, especially for models that are otherwise quite expensive (Iridium). Same with counterfeit Shimano bike chains, for example the CN-HG701 11s chain. I’ve found fakes on Amazon fairly often.
Agree. Dont use never seize. New plugs are usually coated with zinc or nickle plating to prevent rusting. Adding anti seize may also cause the plugs to back out, which I have seen cause the plug to blast out of the engine destroying the threads. Also, dielectric grease for the top of the plug is an insulator. Modern coils / wires use silicone which do not dry out, vulkanize, or dry rot. Old components would vulkanize to the spark plug, new stuff doesn't.. so don't risk the no spark issue by adding it.
One reason NOT to lube a sparkplug is that it reduces friction by ~30%. There is an Aussie car guy on YT who used to be a Fastener Mech. Eng. IIRC, and just putting 1 drop of oil on a sparkplug/screw-bolt, turns it from a dry joint to a wet joint. Torque spec's outside of industry are usually given for a DRY joint, not a wet joint. So anytime you add oil or anti-sieze to threads and torque to spec, you are probably over-torqueing close to 30%. Might not matter on a wheel stud, however anyone who's broken a sparkplug can see the problem here. Use anti-sieze in most other applications sure, just make sure to use the smallest amount, not gob it on, and torque it to the very lowest end of spec or 10% below.
Talk about doing this in the midwest when its 7 degrees and the back 3 are buriedbm under a ton of parts and you get them in and out blind by feel but your fingers are numb except for when you stab/slice your hand on all the sharp shit you force yourself between
So if you don't have a sparkplug socket, start the threads with the boot on the plug wires, it will slip instead of letting you cross thread it too. Always make a full turn backwards until you feel the threads make a slight clicking sound, when you hear it begin to tighten and you'll never cross thread anything again. It sucks to retap an aluminum head
I have a small piece of vacuum hose, 3/16" x 8" in my toolbox, that I've been using for 30 years to install spark plugs. Slip one end over the terminal nut, and then dangle down into the cylinder head. Rotate with my fingers to start the plug threading. Never fails, and then just pull upwards to release after you've threaded a few rotations.
I always take the plugs out of my cars every two or three years just to prevent them from getting frozen in there. And of course inspect them. Also prevents the boot from getting stuck on the plug.
I have put a little very light coat of anti seize on the thread. Did not have any issues at all. Believe me, you dont want that plug stuck on the engine. Of course i use a torque wrench to make sure it is not over torqued
Also it's a good idea to crack the plug loose just a small amount then blow compressed air into the spark plug well hole so nothing goes in the engine.
If you use a quality spark plug (like NGK), there is absolutely no need for anti-seize. Quality metal plating keeps the plug from seizing. Proper tightening is also crucial. There is a chance of over torquing the spark plug and stretching the metal shell if anti-seize or any type of lubrication is applied. Metal shell stretching can decrease the heat transfer characteristics and can lead to pre-ignition. Too much anti-seize can also melt and drip down on the firing end insulator and cause fouling/misfire.
What else is fun is when the rubber boot inside the spark plug socket grips the plug stronger than the locking ball on the extension, leaving the socket stuck on the plug down in the cylinder head.
I snapped an ignition coil bolt because even though there wasn't any visible corrosion, those bolts haven't been moved in 12 years. I think you have to work them loose by slightly undoing them and retightening them to free the threads. I did the same with the spark plugs because I felt them binding upon loosening.
#1 Common spark plug installation mistakes, even by technicians: Using Anti-Seize. Most plugs are already treated so don't screw around with the proper torque values.
You can gap platinums or iridiums if you use one of the squeezer tools now available. You may not have to, tho, because the factory gap may match your cars specs. Don't use those round gauges. Too rough. Use a good set of feeler gauges and gently insert into the gap. Don't use lubricant on the threads because it changes the torque specs. Also, make sure the engine is cold to avoid damaging soft aluminum engine threads.
This is just plain good common sense and hopefully the mechanics you take your car to, if you just have to pay someone to do fairly easy task , have learned the correct way to change plugs. One Thing he left out was to blow out any debris that landed down around the plug cavity. It's to bad that 99% of all the new drivers will never change or wanna learn how to change there plugs.
Yeah since the beginning of time I've always used anti seize from anything from my everyday crappy driver two or three hundred mile an hour funny car.... plus you left out one the most important tips you can give someone either backed him out or blow out the spark plug hole before they take that spark plug out of there lots of debris can fall down into the cylinder
If I'm not having any misfires and otherwise everything feels and sounds alright, can preemptively changing my spark plugs still enhance my fuel economy?
I always use a light coat of antisieze with trifle or kroil and and run them in and out a couple times, until they are smooth, and hand torque them, tight, but not too tight
No mention of dirt sitting around most plugs that falls into cyl when you remove old ones Or the fact that you should never remove plugs from a hot engine! What about a common issue of carbon ? When the end of a plug is jammed with carbon, you cannot remove that plug with breaking it on the head or ruining threads Very common. You must run Sea foam or de - carbonizer first ti remove plugs. Important details missing here
if you dont have a spark plug socket, try a magnet on a telscoping stick thing if you have that so to not drop plug into the hole. OR use some paper to make the plug more snug in a regular hex socket
Antisieze isn't necessary unless you plan on not doing the install until years later and you can change gap on platinum and iridium's just need to be super careful. I got some ac delco double platinums that were all improperly gapped.
It's not just about gas mileage! You burn more fuel = more emissions, more carbonation, oil gets worse sooner, gpf gets clogged sooner, catalytic con.. you have an idea.. edit: my car had the platinum ones and i switched to iridium, no prob so.. you again have an idea
A slight bit of aluminum antisieze on the spark plug threads is a good idea if installing into aluminum heads. Steel and aluminum are dissimilar metals and electrolosis can occur making it difficult to remove the plugs later. Keep the antisieve on the threads and not on the sealing surface, this will insure a good ground for the plug.
Should you avoid using a spark plug that has been dropped (let's say 4 feet onto concrete) even if the gap is still correct and the threads haven't been damaged?
It would be great to see you change spark plug #6 on a first generation Nissan Frontier. I've seen your how to videos of you guys working on an 02 or 03 Frontier. I don't remember a spark plug change. Great video thanks!
I use compressed air to blow out any dirt that may have accumulated around the spark plugs before removing them. This prevent dirt from falling into the cylinder and causing damage. When installing the spark plugs, I turn them counter clockwise until I feel a slight bump. Then I turn them clockwise. This prevents cross-threading. The rubber inserts in the spark plug socket eventually wears out, so I use a magnetic socket. Prior to installing the spark plugs, I inspect them for damage and check if the center electrode is centered with the curved ground electrode. I use a feeler gauge with a tool that's designed to push the ground electrode to close the gap. Sold online. On engines with aluminum heads, I wait at least 30 minutes before removing them from a hot engine, otherwise if you don't wait until the engine cools, you can pull the threads right out of the heads. After removing the old plug, place a rag at the end of a screwdriver and clean the spark plug hole where the plug makes contact with the head seat. Also, place a dab of die electric grease inside the spark plug boot/ignition coil boot. This makes it easier to remove the plugwire or coil next time DON'T FORGET TO INSPECT THE PLUWIRES OR IGNITION COILS.
It is important to remember even on plugs that shouldn't be gapped, always obtain the manufacturers spec for the gap and check it before installing it. It could be damaged or incorrect.
2018 highlander showing P0300,P0011,P0021,P107A2A.... changed sparks plugs,fuel pump, clean the port injectors and direct injector.... still rough idle, acceleration not sharp....these codes are back P0011,P0021,P0300,P0037
Sure, we'll just call them installation mistakes. But we won't make the connection of you buying your auto parts from the bookstore. It's not that you bought your disposable commodities from the number one counterfeit retailer in the world...... It's your technicians fault! If you think you're going to get factory OEM parts, Auto dealership..... You're wrong. Cuz they get their parts from the bookstore too. 20 years ago, we told you all that buying your parts from the internet was going to be a bad idea. And then they fired us all for, criticizing their overwhelmingly bad decisions. So now that we're not working anymore, we can come up here on the internet, and absolutely hammer, these counterfeiters. The scammers, and the internet schemes, that y'all just keep falling for. But yep, after 100 years of changing spark plugs, and passing this knowledge off on to the next generation.... All of a sudden..... We're doing it wrong.... But don't worry, the counterfeit part sales from the internet, will take out them. Commercials and campaigns against the technicians. Because they have parts to sell...
spend a little more and buy good brand plugs like Bosch Platinum or NGK iridium. That way you should be trouble free for the next 10 ~ 15 years. Use a piece of rubber hose to get the spark plug started and threaded as much as possible and then use a spark plug socket on the plug. Once the plug is snug, tighten the spark plug an additional 1/4 turn and after that you are done! Lots of cylinder heads are cast aluminum today so no need to over torque things like a He-Man.....
No, unless you were getting a misfire code or the coils are very old, there is no need to change them. Definitely not each time, that would get very expensive!
Most modern vehicles use platinum or iridium plugs which should be changed between 60K - 150K miles. If your car is in the upper range of the number (or higher), replacing the wires isn’t required but, it is a good idea. 150k - 200k++ I’d recommend replacing the coil packs as well. Especially if your getting a check engine light, reduced MPG and/or a misfire diagnostic code.
On engines old enough that they still have distributors, yeah probably. Almost every car from the 2000s uses coil on plug, so it’s more of a wiring harness than individual spark plug wires. As somebody else already noted the coil packs will eventually wear out; but I just did my first spark plugs on the current car at 105K miles and the original coil packs are showing no problems
I always use copper anti seize on plugs for the shittyford 5.4 3 valve engine. They are notorious to break off in engine then ger expensive for my customers to have me use my special tool to get them out. Dumb design for sure.
You didn't explain WHY not to adjust platinum or iridium plugs: you can crack the precious metal coating on the 'earth' electrode and the plug will destroy itself in no time flat. This is why plugs come pregapped now.
Love the first clip at the beginning. People using an impact driver to push them plugs in as hard as they can as this crosses the threads like crazy. They did not thread them in first with their fingers then use a regular ratchet.
My spark plug socket has been missing its rubber insert for some years now. So what I do is use a magnetic pick-up tool for both retreiving the plugs and putting them in. You can see that in my video doing the C1 plugs. But, yeah, DEFO DO NOT drop them down the hole!
5:18 I just use Telescoping Magnetic Pickup Tool to insert spark plug2. I carefully deep the spark plug on the tip of this Telescoping Magnetic Pickup Tool, then start turning clockwise. If spark plug doesn't fit to thread right away it won't be forced. After couple of turns, I use a 5/8 or 16mm socket to finish the job.
I learned to never watch this channel. Instead of showing the proper application of anti-seize, you sprayed an enormous amount on the entire plug including the electrode and ground. A tiny dab of anti-seize on the threads is all that's required. A torque wrench is 100% required for aluminum heads. I piece of rubber tube is perfect for getting the plug into the hole and turned for the first few threads. Do better.
I like a rubber lined socket, and I use electrical tape to secure the socket to the extention, so when I remove it, I don't leave it stuck to the plug. Also the first time you pull the threads out of an aluminum head, is the last time you will install plugs without a dab of anti-sieze. 🤣
Please just do regular videos. Your kind of annoying when trying to be funny and your not. Ill be deleting this channel and unsubing if this stays like this. The other A1 mechanics do great vids. Just do the same as them, youll be losing a ton of views id say with these weird now funny versions
Most morden spark plugs have a coating on the threads, anti size is not needed, anti size can work it's self down around the ground strap and short the spark, if you do use anti size use very little as possible, yes you can gap platinum and iridium plugs, proper spark gap is important for a engine to run efficient, over gap leads to power loss under engine load, using the right type of plug recommended by manufacturer no matter what the brand, and setting the right spark plug gap is important for a efficient running engine.
Most people that change out a set of original plugs at 100K will never change the plugs again. Why? Because they'll get rid of the car before it's due again.
I just changed my plugs on my 2014 Subaru impreza. 100 thousand miles and the car was misfiring. Now the miss is gone but idle is rough. Any thoughts of what might be wrong. I bought the same Ngk plugs
The problem is is when I actually tried to torque down my spark plugs it seemed like I was tightening them way too much before my torque wrench clicked on an 03 S10
whats most reliable inexpensive torque wrench for plenum intake spark plugs fuel rail for 2006 cadillac cts 2.8l base how important is torque bolts and can i cause a misfire if so please explain
