I see a few things that could be improved upon: 1.) A Cart with a piece of tape on one wheel would allow you to move forward smoothly, and faster, giving you more time to approximate the centering of each Shot. 2.) You need to choose an Interval in which you can move, align and shoot; you want each Shot to be taken with the same amount of time in between (using a Cart gives one less thing to worry about and allows a shorter Interval to be chosen - 20 seconds between each Shot is too long but it's better than having the Interval vary randomly). 3.) Using a Static Gradient Filter means (in _this_ Video) that as you approach the Building you are applying the Gradient to the Roof of the Building (unwanted). Also choosing only one Frame from the middle of the Video upon which to base your Settings means that the beginning and the end may not look as good (or correct) as the mid-frame. IF the Clock on the Building had Second Hands they would jump randomly, like the people who walk quickly are jumping in and out of the Shots. The clouds move fairly smoothly since (on _that_ day) they were moving slow enough. Still, it's a good Video (and a lot of effort) but you asked for suggestions that's my 3¢.
How would you fix the gradient issue and the focal point of the settings then? (I guess applying settings to batches of let's say 30 photos instead of the whole 300?)
To fix the gradient issue you'll need some advanced techniques. See this video we did... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cYeWakYqmrw.html
The "funny" thing is, with all the latest hi-tech , our way of measuring by our foot which is one of the oldest way humans have measured is still very useful. Humanity ftw. :)
Good techniques. Keeping everything simple and not over thinking it. I like how your hyperlapse has a slight motion blur. Much better than ones I have seen without the motion blur.
Thanks. Yes, the motion blur does make a big difference to the overall look. And that is the big benefit with using a camera where you can manually set shutter speed etc. allowing you to have full control of the amount of blur you get. Thanks for commenting!
I watched about 10 tutorials, and for some reason, I keep coming back to this one, great work guys. Thank you very much, your video; it made me feel like a pro before I even tried out your suggestions... :)
Misty Grey hey, sure just search warp in the effects tab and then drag it on the video element in the timeline. It's a but fussy if the video already has effects added to it. If it gives any errors try adding the element to a nest, then apply it to the nest.
HELP! Everything is wonderful until i click … (Adobe AfterEfects) Import… File… (I choose my file … IMG_3506-1) keep sequence… but then it doesn't combine my photos in video… They are in a separate folder. I tried with selecting multiple files… etc… etc… but it won't convert my images in a sequence… I tried everything i found at this moment on the web please help. I use AdobeAfterEfects CC 2014
Luisa H this is what the apple geeks tell you and you are dumb enough to believe that b$. The true is, that i have never seen a fast MAC or one that is even close to the performance of my windows workstation. Absolute stable. I need to say, i also own a MAC because i need it here and there. I like MACOS too, but at the end you want to work without a lot of waiting time with your tools and not with the os. Then performance is the only argument that counts
Awesome thanks! Before I saw this tutorial I saw the Rob Whitworth video and tried to do a Hyperlapse using camera tracking and the Camera in After Effects with very precise fully adjustable results. Just an idea for anyone needing a greater degree of control.
Great video guys, very helpful to a novice like myself. Heading to Cambodia, Vietnam and Thailand in a couple weeks and I'm hoping to shoot much more than the typical stills and video on this adventure.
Wow, it is in Göteborg. I was there two weeks ago. Lovely city, nice people, wonderful ferry ride to Fredrikshavn :-) And of course great video not just because of Göteborg but you explained everything very understandable. Thank you.
thank you so much for this!! I've been trying to work on my stability on hyperlapses and now I finally see how it's done. Cheers guys - you are the experts!
this is a fascinating video, I wish I knew about this earlier in my career. I have since bought a GoPro 8 and with hyperlapse built into the software. it doesn't seem like other people are sharing links so I won't be the one to spam, but if you are interested, I went on a 6 hour drive in 9 minutes with hyperlapse, " Seattle to Yakima in 9 minutes" and a few others. Thank you for the inspiration with the DSLR.
Cool video. Ive found if your doing a building then you can get away with just using a mono pod or hand holding them. Much faster, but your limited in how slow you can drop your shutter speed, which makes anything with water in it look a bit crappy, unless the water is very still. Mono pods and hand holding are alot easier to do on uneven ground as well.
Nice info, thanks. Lumix GH5 or 4 will let you do 4k timelapse internal and save you hours in post. It also has an amazing animation mode. Aside from that you can do these in premier with raw files and save the need to export jpeg and still use warp stabilization. Just group/nest and if you add one effect it affect all images like a piece of video. Then export.
Hey! I'm still editing and re-editing it. I've been playing with settings in After Effects trying to get the best possible output. I'm learning loads though. Thanks for the reply, keep it up with the great uploads!
Awesome video man! Trying to work on a hyperlapse ATM very rudimentary software and cameras and no tripod so I've done what I can but this was really helpful
In timelapses best practice to use long shutter to create illusion fast moving objects around camera by motion blur. Obviously when use shatter speed below 1/25...1/4 (and low) in sun day is required ND-filter to avoid amount of light.
