Complete NOOB Welds The Rust Damage On His Classic Saab | Saab 900 Classic Revival | Part 7 

For somebody that doesn’t rate himself as a good welder, that’s some pretty impressive stitch welding! Welding thin metal panels is difficult for the best of us. Well done!

Definitely not bad for a first time! And you are getting better with every piece you do. Since you asked for tips in the comments here are just some obvious ones just in case: Get some welding magnets or clamps in stead of tacking a piece in place just to take it back out after doing measurements. For the inside/backside you can use weldthrough primer if you really can not access it afterwards (better than nothing). It's better to completely finish your piece before putting it in place in order not to distort the metal around it when bending your new (thicker) piece in to shape. After you (mostly) ground down your welds you could inspect for pinholes and weld those up before completely grinding down the welds(I saw them especially on the wheel arch itself)

YES. MORE! also good job on your first welds.

The result is great! It is encouraging to see that with some experience and a lot of stamina one could achieve something like this. Definitely learning a lot from your video’s! Greetings from your northern neighbor the Netherlands!

As AvE says "Grinder and paint, makes me the welder I ain't". It doesn't look bad for a first attempt - it really doesn't. Your skill level definitely improved throughout. Some of you early welds sound cold and maybe the wire speed was a bit high but its so difficult to get it right on car panelling and the other issue you get if you put to much heat into something the cavity wax melts and ruins your welds. You definitely need some magnetic clamps to hold the metal you're welding and some assorted mole grips to hold bits as well but this car will look pretty good by the time you finish. You can apply the skills you learned on the Saab to patching some of "Gretas" rust in the future. Great video mate. Really enjoyed. I love these old Saabs - they are such a strange beast.

Make sure you paint the rear of the patch panels with weld through primer before welding to prevent subsequent corrosion 🙂 Amazing results for a noob !

Fluid Film or Drahtseilfett is the stuff you want to soak through every cavity in the end.

Your technical skills are impressive, but I'm even more impressed by your mastery of English ! As a retired English teacher, I am in admiration.

For a start it helps that the car is a project car and not some US$ million collectable. That does not take away the great respect I have for tackling this work!! I enjoy your "can do" attitude to tackle all the stuff to get it drivable again. It also helps that the specialtools and spares are reasonably locally obtainable. Sterkte and enjoy the journey - I'm certainly enjoying the content!!

Hello, to decompress the clutch it is also helpful, to take a handle from a hing into the lamells..

Wow! You can really take pride in that result! Great work! Keep on going! Greetings from the land of SAAB 👋🇸🇪

I admire your persistence. So good to see creativity in a world with too much destruction.

Very good job! Don't forget to treat the inside of welds with weld thru primer. Wherever you can access thru hokes, spray in some rust converter and on new metal some etch primer. Looking forward to the next video.Goodluck and hopefully enjoy from South Africa 🇿🇦.

for rust prevention, Repair Geek did a shootout with all the the latest undercoatings. Blaster Surface Shield came on top and is gonna be my pick for rust protection moving forward.

Honestly, I think you’re a genius Memphis. For a first attempt the results are awesome. It’s also great to know you sometimes lose your temper, the clutch had it coming! I’m genuinely impressed by you patience, ever growing skill set and humour. Keep it up Memphis 👏👏👏

Hello. I am from Ukraine and have been watching your videos for about two years. I don't understand what you're talking about, but it's still very interesting to watch. Continue in the same spirit. Good luck to you!

Have been a panel beater or body repairer 50 years, now just enjoy working on old cars as a hobby, especially love Saabs, owned several including Volvo’s. Currently have a 1993 900i 3door auto and Volvo XC90. 20+ years ago, acquired a litre container of sheep grease (or lanolin) from a slaughter house or meat packers. Smear the sheep lanolin on bare metal surfaces it’s by far the best long lasting inhibitor of rust compared to anything else, you can even paint over it… ! It’s also very effective as Anti Fouling on boats and because it’s a non toxic natural product, it’s environmentally safe. New to this channel it’s very informative with great content. Have subscribed. So… now the secrets out, there could be a run on Lanolin lol. Cheers from Melbourne Australia.

Hi! Since you asked for comments on protecting the hard to reach areas here are some from my personal experience: Putting rust converter on areas where you have cleaned the rust mechanically is a good start. I would put a good epoxy primer on the rust converter afterwards and fill it with some cavity spray after you're done welding (usually they're based on wax, but I prefer to use cable grease). The most important thing is to check the rear side of the sheet where you did this type of job. You can cover it with rust converter and cavity spray, but if the rust already has gone through pinholes to the other side of the sheet, you'll need to take care of it too or else it will continue to rust. One more tip about the etching primer: it really doesn't make any sense to use it over other materials, e.g. rust converters. It is designed to promote adhesion with blank bare metal. It doesn't make any sense to spray it over rust too. Use a good epoxy primer instead. Good luck with your project! 👍Can't wait to see the next episode!

I think the results speak for themselves. Really good job you've done there! I would not have believed that was your first time welding on a car. Well done.👍

You did really good job repairing that rust issue! I've seen thousands of sunday mechanics who cut corners. You didnt, so I'll tip my hat to you!

dont worry if you are not a good welder, you a good grinder! at all it looks good. best regards from Thailand

Great job Memphis. You learn definitively fast ! But one little thing : put some wax our dynitrol inside the rocker pannel to prevent rust from the inside it's easy to apply and it prevent .

Your rust repair looks very good. Nicely done!

Old Rule: The Best Mechanic is that one who hides his Botchery at best. :) Kidding. Seriously, you done a pretty good Job at repairing that Corner for an first timer. I am Impressed. I love to see more Saab Content in the Future.

You need pure CO2 for upsidedown welding. Rust prevention I use Zinga (zinc paint or cold galvanising), and then cavity wax for restoration purposes. Ideally apply the zinc paint on the large areas with clearance to the welding (don't breath zinc welding fumes), then try to seal the seam with the zinc paint from the inside if you can. Heat gun is good for removing unseal. Circular hole saw type is best for removing spot weld, run it as slow as possible to avoid overheating and blunting it.

11:15 My way would be: Wire wheel all rust like you did, coat the prepared piece and surrounding area you welded in with weld-through primer( upol, novol etc), flatten the welds, weld-through primer again. When you wire wheel the whole wheel arch and patch it all up, take some etch primer/epoxy to stop the area from flash rusting and move onto the front. Finish one side and then paint the areas, seam sealer for joined/welded panels, stone chip both wheel wells (use everything but bitumen based products). Rocker panels shoud get a reasonable amount of cavity wax (search for Dinitrol ML/Dinitrol 1000) since there's a large opening from the inside ( I guess the Saab is almost stripped inside) and stonechip protection on the outside(preferably one that's paintable). This method is time consuming but in rust we don't trust. The only way to protect it better than what I wrote is to strip whole car to bare metal and zinc coat it professionaly. Keep up the good work and don't stop improving your welding skills.

Good job Memphis! Boogers will turn to dimes in the future 😀👍 You can add precision by resting one hand on a stable surface, near your weld area. With the resting hand you can pin point your weld lance tip and align the welding spots. Cheers on the progress. Claudiu

A very impressive result Memphis. Your hard work certainly has paid off. Looks fantastic. Well done 🙂

Theres a saying called "A grinder and paint makes me the welder i aint" that sums up this video pretty well. Good video and learnt something about rust repairs too.

Ahah basically in the middle of doing the same thing in a less extreme version on my e36. Found a tiny spec of rust (like 5mm) in the undercoating, didn't think much of it, thought I was gonna scrape it, use converter and put some undercoating back on. Turns out my supposedly rust free car had a nearly fist sized hole, all covered by undercoating. It's like my 3rd time welding anything, got that hole fixed, with weld through primer, seam sealant, cavity wax on the inside and now a fresh coat of undercoating in the whole wheel well after everything was checked toroughly and any suspect spots were ground to bare metal and converted. Now I have one black undercoated wheel well, so I can't leave the others like this plus now I don't trust anything I haven't redone, so I'm in the process of doing the other rear wheel well, basically no rust, just like one tiny spot with a rock chip but it literally sanded out, but the weather here has been shit so haven't made any progress. After that it's bodywork, it feels like a never ending project. Especially money wise, I was looking into getting some more undercoating and cavity wax and some more supplies like spot putty and some more primer for bodywork (already bought the bulk of primer and fillers but was missing some stuff) and it's another 100€ order. For just a few missing things from my previous multi hundred euros order of just paint, body filler, primer and rust prevention stuff.

Just discovered your channel and admire your perseverance and sense of humor in keeping this car on the road. Greetings from Soulsville!

My favorite expression ever: "Grinder and paint, makes me the welder I ain't" But in all honesty, you did great!

Never ending discoveries of rust

One of the few youtubers were quality > quantity. It's always nice when a new video you pops up in my feed. Awesome work, keep it up!

Well done mate! Some of your welds don't look the cleanest, but you are extremely thorough and learning as you go. By the time you do all 4 wheel wells you will be a pro. Thanks for sharing the detail with us and I hope you will throw us some footage of fixing the BMW and the Golf to keep us going until you return to finish the rust and clutch on everyone's new favourite project the SAAB.

your content never fails to amaze on how patient/skilled you are becoming each video! that welding was very good! well done bro!

Great work, enjoy these vids. My only suggestion is for your health. I'd suggest using a respirator as often as possible. Thanks for the content! Stay safe.

Nice patches. And that inner fender looks😙👌 at the end 👍

A little advices on fabricating... Some paper and a carpenter's pencil are your best friends in picking shapes you need and making exact replicas. 😏 Try also to weld the underlying parts first and then the easier accessible ones, it makes your life easier. Also avoid lap joints whenever possible, as those are a sure source of rust. Don't throw away old parts as you will need those for templates. A magnetic angle is a precious helper to hold patches in place. Don't be afraid to cut a little over the rusty spot, just to be sure. Whenever possible, shape first, mark the patch accordingly based on the new one, weld later. You did a good work though, hats down! Cheers and keep on!

If this really is your first stab at bodywork, it ain't bad at all. My many early attempts were looking much worse. Well done ! One missed trick is priming everything with weld-through primer. As it is, you won't be able to prime some of the panel "back sides".

Hello Memphis, I have watched many of your videos. I am a big fan of your realy nice work. My personal opinion to stop rust is you can use rust stopper but something like Bruno Epoxy, which is easy to use and has a nice result. Epoxy gorunding is also one of the Effektiv ways to stop rust in future and after all some kind of oil or cavity wax. The problem with the most rust stopper like Fertan or something else is that it needs a long time to react and you need to wash it off after use because the acid that reacts with rust needs to be washed off or it will rust more then before. :D sorry for my bad englisch :D Best greetings from Germany

You going better and better in every piece you welding. Keep going the great job you doing. Hugs from Portugal.

Those pesky rust holes are always more plentiful than we all hope on pretty much every car!! Great job, and fair play for tackling it yourself and being open about the results etc.. rust free and protected panels, tick! It will all be worth it in the end.

A good channel to view for sheet metal fabrication and rust repair is Fitze's Fabrications. Great techniques, great channel. Cheers

For a “newby” that was a brilliant job, great looking finish. Look forward to seeing your videos, so well narrated.

Once you have welded everything and used rust killer and etch primer , flood all the cavities and welded sections with dinitrol. A cheaper alternative to dinitrol is 'bar and chain oil'. It costs around 25 euros for 5 litres and can be sprayed or brushed on.

Lekker bezig, met veel plezier kijk ik je reparatie videos, zeker op een regenachtige zondagavond.

You are always 100% dedicated to the tasks you undertake on each and every car you work on, we'll done on your first time welding to.

Well done Memphis, great job. You really go for it. I'm sure you'll find faster ways of tackling the other arches, if only for your sanity! The new clutch should be a walk in the park though. Hoping to have much more from you soon, keep up the good work as a 900 is full of character on the road so you'll love driving it - eventually!

Don't sell yourself short Memphis! For a complete NOOB you did a nice job. Can't wait for the next episode :)

Before you paint you can use rust remover that leaves a phosphate surface. After that red oxide paint, epoxy primer, stone chip paint, paint , clear coat and cavity wax. This is how I do it, and no issue.

The clutch on a 900 is amazing to work on when you know how.... I once changed the release bearing on a parking lot in Dresden doing Carbagerun on my old 900 Turbo16. Thanks for the video!

You have done an amazing job! Your skills are growing and you are learning, great work!

Do your best and fill the rest 😀 You really went down the rabbit hole with this but seriously, I think you did an amazing job. Well done 👏🏻 👏🏻👏🏻 Only three more to go now

Good for you for taking on something you've never done before and keeping this beautiful old Saab on the road.

You did a great job. Almost nicer than Saab. Clutch looks like it will be fun. Was going to say I wish I lived there you could give me help with my MK1 Clutch and the rust on my B7 passat. Great job as always my friend. Loved the idea of lowering the car and using the chair.. Work smart not hard. Enjoy your day.

Great job for your skillevel! I am also a noobie when it comes to welding, and after weeks of welding on my F350 project truck I have 3 tips for you. Use a backing plate when joining two pieces of metal together. Buy a mini angle grinder for easy cutting in tight spots. Milwaukee M12 FCOT for example. And last, buy a spot weld cutter drill bit. The holesaw type. Keep up the good work! Fan from Norway 🇧🇻

Fantastic DIY! The end result looks very robust.

You chose the right way to approach this rust repair! Keep up the good & hard work! You can also thin up some antirust primer with thinner, and press this in sills with a brush. This has to dry some days, but it is good for spots where you have no access afterwards. A good product we use for our oldtimers is brantho korrux 3 in 1. We dont use the spray cans of brantho though. As said in the beginning, keep up your good work, an by finishing the Saab you will be a pro 👍🏻

I have changed several clutches and slave cylinders in various SAABs and have never found it to be as simple as everyone says. The struggle continues. Looking very good! I would be very happy with results like that 👍

Great job for a first timer Memphis, well done. Overhead welding is hard to get the hang of, keep practicing.

Please consider dustmasks or other airway protection. I wish someone thouht me ten years ago that I would be weezing like and old man today. Had a couple of 900`s as my first cars. Still miss the sounds from my 8V turbo with the airflow kit 😃👍

Nice to see how it went, sold my 900 for this very reason the shock absorber rusted to pieces. keep up the good work man.

Was waiting for this video. 🙂 Nice work. Things are progressing forward. It's nice that one wheel arch has now done. ✔ Fan Sydney Australia 🇦🇺

Memphis you made me laugh so much when you lifted that pressure plate🤣🤣🤣🤣 those Saab's are not easy cars to work on, based on what I'm seeing and you are a really good mechanic so that no joke..

Je houd dus de nodige ballen in de lucht met zoveel projecten, maar als je ze allemaal zo oplost als deze met de SAAB dan zie ik het met alle vertrouwen tegemoet !! De wielkast die je nu behandeld hebt ziet er meer dan professioneel uit en je laswerk is voor mij als leek meer dan oke !! Voor dat je voor het aan het lassen bent ziet het er keurig uit !! M,n complimenten, en ik kan me voorstellen dat je het na een paar weken best wel even beu bent. Maar man wat bij jij een Vakman !!!! Kijk uit naar de volgende episode en tot die tijd blijf gezond !

A great result, especially for your first time welding. Good solid job.

For a first time this is amazing! Have seen bodyshops do it way worse unfortunately. You can be proud!

I use weld thru primer where I can on the inside, then after it's closed up I have a small holes I can put a hose in and I spray a creeping oily rust inhibitor called Dinitrol ML. I do that every year actually. The hole is closed up with a rubber plug that has a groove so it sits securely in the hole, easily removable for the future. Salted roads require constant maintenance.

for the undercoating i always used a wirewheel on an electric impact, get the cheap wirewheels so it wont create that much of a hole in your pockets... rust wise this saab looks, even before the fixes - rather fine... especially compared to my civic or prelude... well done!

Well done! For a first time you did a great job. I like the fact that you take on these types of projects as it makes me think that I'll tackle similar issues on my cars.

Have done the exact same repairs and more on a 900 I owned. Doing some rust repairs on my 1964 Saab 96 twostroke at the moment. Anyway, you earned a subscribe for this awesome content!

Bodywork guys have lots of training and experience in this type of work. I take my hat off to you for the job you did. Repair and restoration is a fine art and what you've done is pretty dam good. Trial and error is the way forward. Lookn forward to the journey.🛺

Respect. You have the right attitude to the Job. And you will learn and get better- leading to 4 Wheel arches with awesome protection. Subbed, liked, and activated the Bell,

Great job considering that it’s your first time! Definitely a motivation for me, to start working on my old van too! Keep up the good work man. 👍🏼

Great job. I'm waiting when I can start my Transit 1999 fenders repair :)

Your work is clean, you are amazing my friend, you are a legend😈🎩🏁🤘

Not bad for the first time, not bad at all. Now you need to get some spray cans of cavity wax and go on all the cavities in the car, specially where you done any welding to keep rust away, also inside the doors and quarter panels and you should be ok :)

Your welds look pretty good. I have taken a few weeks to learn and get better at my welds and just practice. Just make sure you move around the panel to keep the heat away. It can cause holes in your panel. The tac welds don't need to be too big a nice quick jolt is pretty good and will hold. But GREAT JOB. I though I was over my head with my project but I have completely replaced a floor and rocker panels and my welds have come a long way so yours will too.

Well done sir. I respect your hard work and determination to get the body repairs done. It looks very good.

WOW! That was great. I can’t weld for squat. I think you did great. And yeah, I like seeing you do a variety of things.

You should cover the wheel wells with raptor coating ( the epoxy coating used in the bed of trucks) so that rocks from the road wont chip away the paint and you will avoid rust problems for a longer time.

Beautiful job well done with the welding, Memphis. When it comes to preventing rust, there is a simple trick given me by a little old lady friend of my grandmother. Start by giving the car a good was with dish detergent (washing up liquid). There are two reasons. The first is the rearrangement of the house. The second, which is very certainly older than he looks. That car is going to be magnificent.

Really good 👍 result! The base of the shock absorber is a old problem.. from inside you could use Rost (corrosive) fluid from outside some spots will be done well with Ovatrol oil, will be harden as paint and you could put a shape of epoxy on it.. don’t give up! And thanks for the video!!

Don't knock the quality of the work you did there. A methodical and thorough approach and a really good end result.

I have to say the process and results are very impressive and your idea of rust inhibiter and then primer is sound. Rust inhibiter is normal a form of phosphoric acid which forms a microscopic chemical film which kills rust and as it bonds with the metal. Some people sand it after it has dissolved the visible rust, but this simply exposes the metal to corrosion again as it scratches through the film of bond. It is better to apply primer directly to prevent rust returning, as you have done it. Excellent video. This is a life skill you have taught yourself, that will save you a lot of money by being able to do it.

Good job. I always find that I need to multiply my original time estimate by four and then add a week to be sure. You'll get there and then will have a really nice and solid car.

Great job. Looking great. I'd put some rust converter with zinc before primer.

Excellent work Mr memphis 👏 thank you for sharing looks good

Awesome work and video. Really enjoyed. Thanks

Hey! I noticed you use Drills to take out the spot welds. I for myself use ball end mills. Works much better and faster... at least for me! Keep up the good work my friend! greetings from Germany

What a brilliant job you have done, you're welding come on quick, i am still learning with my welding, sometimes i even enjoy doing it !

What an excellent job you made of that - well done. I'm a SAAB freak - had 7 so far, but luckily never had a problem with rust like you have. Anyway, I love watching your work and look forward to seeing the finished car 🙂

for Saab inspiration watch the Japanese movie "Drive My Car." Fabulous project. Look forward to seeing the Saab visit Sweden.

Wow the end result was great!

Great rust repair. No way I would attempt that! As an aside, I was thinking that now you have the car stripped down it is a good time to replace the steering column bushing. They tend to fail and it is a lot easier working on it now. Oh, and the odometer likes to break as well.

Great work, looks good !!

result is great, better use face mask or more solid protect glasses, also for rust removal the best way is sand blasting

a blow torch and a scraping tool is also effective at removing undercoating. a heat gun can also be used but takes longer.

Dang, good job👍 This is going to be better than new when finished. Keep it up💯