I could be wrong here, but with the collet die once you reach roughly. 35 pounds if pressure it will make no difference if you use 200 pounds of pressure or 35. You are not going to suze the neck down any smaller than the mandrel.
@@thomasayers4207 you cannot collapse the shoulder. The action of the die is not case activated. The collet is closed by the shell holder pushing against the bottom of the collet. The cap has a recess milled into to allow the mandrel to move freely AFTER the primer is removed. Since the resizing is done after the decaping.
I agree with Kingrinder75, 100%. I would polish mating points of the tool and lube. It would be a great advantage to have the mandrel necked down so that the entire length is not being dragged upon removal. Just my 2cent...
When I try to find the the oal of where the lands are in my rifle by just barely seating the bullet and then chambering it, when I go to gently extract it the bullet always gets stuck in the chamber. Do I need to try it with less neck tension or do I need more tension to keep the bullet in the case? And also if the bullet does stay in the case, how do I know if the chamber pulled the bullet out of the case somewhat or if it did not? Thanks
Way late on a reply here but maybe it will help someone else. Take a sharpie and color the bullet with it then barely start it into the case, now chamber it. Even if the barrel pulls the bullet out of the case some on extraction the marker will show where the case neck was on the bullet so you can seat it back in to that point and get your measurement where your lands start. Make sure and do this multiple times. Remember that the Ogive will be different even from bullet to bullet in the same batch so you will get a different reading using a different bullet. This is where taking a reading off of the Ogive with a bullet comparator will get you closer than taking a COAL reading.
@@ammosmith There's no bullet at this point in the process. Either the total length of the case is lengthened, or the neck is lengthened backward reducing the shoulder angle slightly. Or maybe, metal flows into the gaps between the collet petals. It's probably a very small effect though.
Correct... crimping is a conspiracy of the whiteman. Let your boolit free~!! Loose & free to slide around in the brass!! Just keep the gap small enough that the grains of powder don't fall out. If you runnin with the boolits smackin up against the front wall of your magazine, that's OK.
over done explanation. Size the neck until you have .002 neck tension after seating the bullet. Size the neck, measure the OD of the neck, seat the bullet and measure the neck OD again. You should have .002, or adjust the die to have less. Simple. Calipers don't lie.
Using these dies isn't rocket science!. 1. Lee recommends a minimum of 25lbs of pressure in their instructions after the die bottoms out, no where in the instructions do they recommend you go out and spend $200.00+ on a special torque wrench to use on their cheap ass $20.00 die!. If you're a reloader you should already have a set of calipers anyway, USE THEM and some simple math to get your neck tension right. If you can't do simple math or reasonably judge 25+lbs with your hand either buy more Aluminium caps till you get it right or buy a different neck sizing die that does the thinking for you, like a bushing die. 2. The Aluminium cap on these collet dies is designed to "blow out", in other words to strip out it's threads and pop out in case to much pressure is applied (that's why it's made of Aluminium and everything else is made from stainless steel), replacement caps can be bought from Lee for a very low cost in case this happens. If your starting out, buy 1 or 2 extra. I have used these collet dies for YEARS (by hand) and for many calibres, and have NEVER felt the need to buy a separate torque wrench to use them. I load for over 6 different calibres and have only blown out one cap (the first die I owned and used) once you get the feel for them these things are nearly flawless and work far better than my $200.00 Redding bushing die...............AND with almost no run out or "Donut" worries.
There's nothing "special" or "highly modified" about that torque wrench. It's just equipped with a "head" that open-end wrench adapters can be installed on instead of a conventional square-drive fixed or ratchet head. They're "specialized" in that they're very rarely used in the "general" mechanical world but their limited utility and inability to do things a "normal" and "unmodified" torque-wrench AND lack of a ratchet head with multiple moving parts generally make them pretty "cheap" compared to high-quality conventional torque wrenches. And "micrometer" type torque wrenches like that are more or less "obsolete" in most mechanical fields these days and have been for decades. Because of their design they have to be "backed off" after use or they lose calibration, they don't have an audible "click" until they've actually PASSED the torque setting and the "click" is caused by the torque-wrench mechanism "snapping over-center" and the lower the torque setting the quieter it gets and they're slow to adjust compared to "dial-type" torque wrenches like Snap-On TQ-series wrenches that DON'T have to be backed of and can be adjusted in a couple seconds and overall they're the least "accurate" and "precise" torque wrenches you can get. Even supposedly "cheap" and "low-quality" bending beam/pointer type torque wrenches are far more accurate and precise by comparison. In fact, bending-beam/pointer torque wrenches are VERY accurate and precise and require zero adjustment. Their only downfall is they don't ratchet, you have to watch the gauge all the time and have a straight-on view of it to avoid parallax and if somebody uses them for a "breaker bar" and exceeds the maximum torque of them significantly once they're pretty much "done". At best torque wrenches of the same STYLE as the one in the video are usually "accurate" to within +/- 5% of their maximum reading and ALL torque wrenches are MOST ACCURATE AND PRECISE in the top percentage of their capacity that matches their "guaranteed accuracy percentage" so using a "15-75 lb.-ft." with at best +/- 5% accuracy withing the top 5% of its maximum range for "precision" measurement in the bottom 33% of its scale is pretty funny. This torque wrench has kind of an "oddball" range but that's because when used with open-end adapters that slide on the end of the head, the actual torque setting on the wrench is LOWER than the torque created at the fastener itself because the torque wrench ends up being "longer" and has more leverage over the fastener. If the adapter adds 10% to the torque wrenches length, then whatever torque is set on the wrench is increased by 10% at the fastener. 15 lb.-ft. becomes 16.5 lb-ft. SOME wrenches like this that are used with/designed and calibrated for a specific set of adapters CAN have that "calculation" built-in to them so setting them at 15 lb.-ft. produces 15 lb.-ft. at the adapter. However that's usually not the case and the actual multiplication ends up being closer to 20% than 10%. 15 lb.-ft. becomes 18 lb.-ft., 50 lb.-ft. becomes 60 lb.-ft. and 75 lb.-ft. becomes 90 lb.-ft., etc.
Neck tension ultimately has nothing to do with neck OD since its neck ID and neck thickness that really determine the "tension" of the neck on the bullet and Lee Collet Neck Sizing dies are specifically designed to be completely "closed" as FAR AS THEY CAN EVER GO when their collective ID matches the "specified" OD of the cartridge case in the "SAMMI specs" and they can never UNDERSIZE the neck OD, you're only "adjusting" the neck tension to the extent you can "compress" the necks. And again, that's with an EMPTY CASE and one you're only going to "blow out" the aluminum plug with by improperly adjusting the die body in the press and having the neck too far through the colllet and the SHOULDER forcing it upward against the plug. Impossible if you set the die by the book to begin with. The only way to ACCURATELY measure NECK TENSION is by SEATING BULLETS IN THE CASE NECKS AND USING SOME SORT OF "SCALE" TO MEASURE THE TENSION REQUIRED TO DO SO. The THICKNESS and SOFTNESS of the neck brass determines actual neck tension. So does the BULLET MATERIAL and how "smooth" the neck ID and bullet OD are. And since cases stretch all along their length over time as they're "worked" and they have to be occasionally full-length sized and then checked for length and trimmed, over time EVERY PART OF THE CASE IS GETTING THINNER AND THINNER AND THINNER. SIZING WHETHER FULL-LENGTH OR NECK-ONLY GETS "EASIER" EVEN IF IT DOESN'T FEEL LIKE IT AND IT WOULD FEEL LIKE IT IF YOU WOULD ANNEAL THE CASE PRIOR TO FULL-LENGTH SIZING WHICH IS COMMON SENSE SINCE ANNEALED CASES HAVE TO BE RESIZED REGARDLESS. Annealing cases is a guaranteed way to extend case life and "regain" neck tension since annealed cases are softer and even when neck-sizing that softer and RELAXED brass can be more easily "compressed" than work-hardened and repeatedly neck-sized/fired cases. Annealing the cases from mouth to about 1/3 down over the shoulder also softens cases for easier "sizing" by the RIFLE'S CHAMBER ITSELF and if you want maximum benefit from neck-sizing only and want "perfectly matched" cases that fit your chamber "perfectly" you anneal them every 3-4 reloads, full-length size them and then trim them to "case length" for a perfect crimp, load them with identical charges, keep the cases "sorted" by lot, neck-size them every reloading and anneal necks/shoulders every other and THEN neck-size them again and let NECK TENSION FALL WHERE IT WILL because you can NEVER "adjust" it once you REALLY KNOW WHAT IT IS ANYWAY. Not to mention with the compound leverage of a press, its impossible to feel "differences" in neck tension smaller than 5% at BEST. Not to mention that every time you CHAMBER another round in a "hot" chamber, the case is heating and the powder charge is heating and things are expanding and the neck tension is NEVER going to be the same round to round OR will the pressure be "identical". Especially shooting as "fast" as most wannabe "long-range" and "extreme long-range" shooters these days shoot. Guys are putting more rounds through a rifle in a MINUTE than REAL "precision shooters" with unlimited time on the range and searching for absolute "consistency" shoot in an HOUR. When there is NO CLOCK RUNNING its STUPID to shoot "fast" while claiming to be all about "accuracy" and "precision" and "consistency" and when putting stupid amounts of time, energy and money into "consistent loads" that are consistent right up until the time they come out of the ammo box or magazine one by one and into a "warm" rifle. Go to a "rail gun" benchrest event or just "practice" and you'll see those shooters do their loading ON SITE in REACTION TO CONDITIONS/RESULTS and it can take them 3 hours to fire their 1/4 MOA 200-yard groups with 6mm bullets in a hot, humid and breezy place like Florida. That so many wannabe "precision marksmen" think you can load dozens or hundreds of identical rounds using "premium" components they decided to use before they even built their "long-range" or "precision long range" rifle and then go out in varying conditions and ram-jam as many rounds as possible through a rifle while "conditions are good" and then have the "balls" to call a situation where ANY HIT ANYWHERE ON THE TARGET IS AS GOOD AS A "BULLSEYE" precision shooting when they might actually average one hit per 100 rounds at some stupid range if EVERY ROUND FIRED leading up to a "hit" were counted is just hilarious. That they're mighty impressed and proud of shooting "sub-MOA" with their multi-thousand-dollar rifle and multi-thousand-dollar "optic" and who knows how much time and money "invested" in their "reloading" (real precision shooters tend to refer to what they do as "handloading") equipment and components and ammunition when there are GUARANTEED 1 MOA OR BETTER WITH ANY FACTOR AMMO THEY'RE CHAMBERED FOR $400 rifle/scope "packages" made by companies like Savage and Ruger who haven't "historically" been known for "precision rifles" before the last few decades at most is only proof of how detached from "reality" the "long-range" and "extreme long range" clowns are. Especially those that expect the "sport" to "take off" and be the next "big thing" like "long-range" shooting hasn't been around for decades and even centuries in the U.S. and hasn't been "dominated" mainly by "mass-produced" rifles/cartridges or "custom" rifles produced using them AFTER the original barrels were "shot out" etc and typically with the new "custom build" being pretty much the same rifle with a new barrel and a glass-bed job and maybe rebluing all the steel and refinishing the wood stock so when its all said and done its the same old rifle in feel but looking and shooting like new or better than new for the guy that has shot it thousands and thousands of times and knows it like the back of his hand and wanted a "better" rifle but not a "different" rifle since GOOD RIFLEMEN/MARKSMEN know its how COMFORTABLE and FAMILIAR with a rifle a shooter is that ultimate determines how well "they" shoot together. And you'll rarely see a "long-range shooter" of the "old-school variety" who didn't get started in shooting with an open-sighted .22 rifle and then probably an open-sighted or low-power scoped "deer rifle" and who hasn't smoked more deer, coyotes, prairie dogs and other "critters" with his favorite old rifle than he can remember or count or would BOTHER COUNTING since GOOD RIFLEMEN/MARKSMEN don't consider a HIT to be an "achievement". They EXPECT to hit what they're shooting at and know their own limitations and their rifle's limitations and shoot for "one-shot hits" only when the "target" is breathing and otherwise shoot for "groups" and "keep score" if only in their head.
Morten Breiland so you say. The CCA has helped me get +/-1m/s MV. That’s with a +/-1grn of powder difference. I no longer weigh each powder charge. Because the through has a much higher tolerance than +/-1grn. The CCA and Lee FCD/collet kneck sizer combo has proved the best combination I have ever used.
