Thank you for making this video. I thought I understood from reading the directions that came with it, but this completely cleared it up. Great channel.
I'm late to the dance on comments since you posted this but your parts1 & 2 descriptions are complete, concise and excellent. None of the war stories we hear from many contributors. I'm now a subscriber. Thanks and keep posting.
This is really a testament to the fact that you don't have to spend a bunch of money to get precision results. A lot of people thumb their nose at Lee because it's affordable, and they have no real experience with the hardware. I've got this die for my 28 Nosler bench gun and that rifle is a hammer! I set it up exactly as you do and I may have .001 runout and sometimes even less. What I love most about this die is that it doesn't work the hell out of your brass. I believe that the less you have to do to the cases, the better and everything you do to the brass adds a question mark. This is really a great video series thank you
ammosmith man you rock, you have a great way of explaining reloading, you are a true master of reloading, your channel has helped me out time after time ... thank you....andy from Dingwall Scotland
Thanks for the tutorial of the Lee Neck Sizing Die. I bought a Lee Neck Sizer to use for my bolt action rifle. I have been reloading .223 for years for my AR, first time reloading for my .308 and wanted to neck size for bolt action. I could not seem to get the tightness I wanted around the bullet. I thought it might be as easy as turning down the die until I was happy with the tightness of the bullet to the neck. thought I would see what was on You Tube before I went any further. Very informative video.
This die actually mace the same or even better/less runout than the other "pro" and exspensive dies, like the Redding Competition Neck Sizer. This is pretty much due to this genious system by Lee pressing from the inside of the neck, and not outside as with a bushing ring. Where the deformations in the neck will be transfered from the inside to the outside with the Lee, and opposite with a bushing, where the disformations will be where the bullet is held, which is pretty bad. You want the side that holds your bullet to be as straight and nice as possible, for the least ammount of runout. A little tip to get NO runout at all: Turn the die a couple times and run it after each little turn, and its almost impossible to see any runout on a runout measuring tool! Crazy nice die for the price. A good and rare example of cheapest and best! And good guide!
Awesome video. I bought a die set for my .30-06 and thought it was defective. Could not get the neck tension I needed. I may have been too easy on it, not pressing down hard enough as well as not setting the die properly. I haven't sent the die back yet, so I'm going to try it again. This video was extremely informative, I'm new to reloading.
Thanks. I just started loading a 222 with this die today. I was confused by adjustment until I watched this, even though I followed the instructions. I was seating the die too far down, and just using feel to size the cases. I didn't have any of them deform on me doing this, but as you can imagine the tension was not very consistent. One nice thing about this die, like you stated, is that a proper-OAL gauge can be made by using light neck tension and a bullet to find where the rifling begins.
@AngelusFromHell These are really neat dies. If you do your part in fine tuning it you will get some outstanding accuracy. I like the ability to adjust neck tension...inexpensively.
Thanks! Was having an issue of the bullet falling right through and now its a good fit. I just ventured into rifle reloading from doing pistol for years.
Thanks for the instructional video, it will save me some time when my new Lee Collet Die arrives. One suggestion, though, when polishing the taper on the collet, try polishing in the same direction the collet slides in. The tiny grooves left by the 1500 grit emery may not feel like much, but it does make a difference.
Food for thought , If you run the case threw the neck sizing die and then spin he case 180 degrees and run it threw the die again you may decrease run out even further. Its worth a test !
Awesome I did not understand how to use that die. It felt like it was doing anything to my rounds but now I am going to open it and check it might be hanging up on the pedals. Thanks for the great advice how this helps out my rounds a little for accuracy!
Very useful video, thanks for upload it! With my Classic Cast and Lapua cases, I have to slightly touch the shell holder and turn in 3/4 more. In this manner, I have good tension but little signs on the collet.
I have been using my Lee Collet Die following the instructions provided with the die. Lee recommends screwing the die an additional turn or more after shellholder contact. This keeps the press from going over center to the end of travel. The user is supposed to apply about "25 Lbs. of pressure," to the press lever. I think the method used here is likely to be more precise then the Lee instructions. I plan to try the ammosmith method.
Great videos. Helped me alot! Can you tell me if the lee collet neck sizing die is capable of being set up so it only sizes half of the cartridge neck? Thanks
Thanks. Yep, I figured that out after more reading and a better understanding of reloading & such. Once the brass is 'fireformed' to a specific rifle, neck collet sizing can take the place of full length sizing. Not sure how many times we can do that before we have to re-full length size again.
Good video series. The instructions for the Lee Neck Collet sizer also say to size the neck 3 times, rotating the shell 1/3 of a turn each time. This helps get a uniform size around the neck. Since you have a nice dial indicator for runout, it would be really interesting to see how much sizing the neck 3 times helps.
Using the LEE Collet die is about the only operation that I do by feel, as opposed to letting the press linkage hit the stops. It is very pressure sensitive. You do not want to apply too much pressure once the collet is at maximum compression. That will only damage the die. I believe you can FEEL this point of maximum compression best when set up according to LEE instructions which do not allow the ram to ever "top out". That is how I set it up on my Rockchucker. This worked VERY well. IIRC, Lee has separate setup methods for LEE presses as opposed to other brands.
I had issues with about 5 cases where I pushed the shoulder back and it would not chamber … then had to full size those pieces, but I do like neck sizing 😊
...I use this die for my bolt action.223. I turn the brass 120° and size it twice and check the tension occasionally with a .224 bullet. I also measure the neck external diameter with digital calipers; around 0.248" for my Geco brass...and make sure use enough pressure too!
Great video. So if I need it to grip the bullet more do I turn in further or press ram handle harder? Says in video about "deciding how much tension" does that mean turn die in more or what?
@ammosmith Great videos I got the 3 die set and ordered the factory crimp for my 3006 bolt action. I resized the brass that was picked up at the range. But once its fired formed to my rifle i only have to neck size right? And when i due my oal gauge set it a .100 shorter. then crimp it. Right?
I really, really like Lee equipment. I find it better and cheaper than their competition. And they're made in the USA. That last part means a lot to me. I'm sick of everything being made outside of this country and imported.
This is a good video but, it seems from watching as though you are turning the lock nut or ring only to make your adjustment. What you are actually doing is turning the locking nut which in turn is adjusting the the tube above the lock ring at the same time as the nut to make the adjustment which the video does not fully explain and could be confusing to someone new watching. My point is, it is not the turning of the lock nut that adjusts the collet tension (as the video implies to me) but the turning of the cylinder above the locknut which also turns the locknut and put pressure on the collet to make a change in the neck tension. This is constructive only. Thanks!I
@ammosmith So after I use this tool I can prime, insert powder charge, and then seat a bullet? I started reloading on one of those lee classic loaders where you hammered primers, and cases into dies so this is a whole new ballgame for me. thanks
Neck sizing is for when you want to make very accurate loads for one particular (generally bolt action) gun with brass that was fired from that gun. If you are using the rounds in more than one gun or in an autoloader, you generally want to use a full length sizer.
I just started collet sizng last night. I have the die set up per Lee instructions. I could feel no pressure when inserting a case into the die, as stated in the video. I did some research online. Many said that the ID of the case mouth should be .001" smaller then the size of the bullet. For exmaple .308, so, the ID of the case mouth should be .307". I checked all of mine, and that's the measurement I was getting. Just thought I would share.
ammosmith, did I hear well in this video that redding (S-type?) bushing sizer die will result in less runout than lee collet? Thank you in advance, great videos.
@ammosmith I also plan on reloading my mini14 and wasr10 semi auto rifles ,on those do you recommend to resize all the time and do i have to neck size also? Im asking cause ive seen Lee selling the 2 die set for these calibers and was wondering if the 2 die set would work , the resizing die and bullet seater with crimp. Its doesnt have the neck sizer.But its cheap
Could you aid the run-out situation by turning the case 1/8 turn and run it through the collet neck sizer again, therefore eliminating the spots where the petals came together for the original lever throw?
@ammosmith Hi! With the die turned 3/4, the tension isn't optimal (case neck and shoulder dirty of gas). If I screw the die 1 turn after the touching of the shell holder, the final piston run is very hard. Very strange!
I'm always looking for ways to economise with my reloading, without sacrificing standards. What do you think of using the 308 collet die for 30-06? Or even the 7.62x39 die for the other two? Great videos by the way. GC
I was having trouble with ny collet die, I don't like the way it is a bit hap - hazard as to what neck tension you put on, however this video is excellent, thanks for taking the time to do it.
Hi, I'm working on loads for an old Remington Rolling Block in 7X57 Mauser. I fireformed the brass and the necks expanded to almost .30 cal. Obviously I have a chamber that is really out and headspace is bad also. I resized the necks with the collet sizer die and it left really obvious working marks on the case necks. Any suggestions?
i collet form my brass with light pressure, turn the case 1/8 a turn then do it the full pressure. makes the collet "marks" alot less visible. i think it helps. i can get .155 4 shot groups out of a savage 10fp. another thing i did was put the center mandrell in a lathe and take .0005 off it, so i dont have to put as much pressure on the case to get the proper tension, it leaves less bumps on the case. running scotch-pad on the mandrel in a drill would probably work as well. good luck!
with the measurement you where taking at the end which numbers where you using for eccentric runout. There was an obvious out of round issue with the full length sizing die due to the two measurements per revolution, that is measuring the semimajor and semi minor twice per rev.
once again the Lee Collet die proves its just as good as any neck sizer with very little to no run out...actually its better than most others as far as neck run out goes
Okay.... so, I'm new to reloading, here's comes some newbe questions. Do we use the Collet Neck Sizing Die before or after the Full Length Sizing Die. Do we lube the cases for the Collet Die, like we do with the Full Length Die?
If you're mixing brands like remington, winchester and so on..each has different neck wall thickness tolorances and the alloy used is usually different.
I have brass that I neck size only for my .308 and I have 20 firings on them Keep the loads below maximum and with a 30-06 you should get at leat 10-15. The taper in the case has a lot to do with case life.
excellent video. But just IMHO, I never had any problems with a standard 2 piece die set. they are only $10 or less used on Ebay now, and work quite well. If I was going to get anything else, it would be a neck size Hornady die, those are awesome.
You need to measure with calipers the OD of the neck after camming over ever so slightly to achieve the correct OD of the neck ie; .308 win has .330 OD before bullet seating. After bullet seating it measures .332. The mandrel that goes inside the neck of the case is .306. So you can see the neck tension is .002 after bullet seating.
@Griffin12204 Please PM me and let me know how they do. I use a slight taper crimp on my pistol rounds but not on my rifle unless it's a .375 H&H or bigger.
Try WD-40. Make sure you use 3200 emery paper to get all the rust out. Tumble them if you have to the oil. When I lived in MS I kept them in 50 cal ammo can with silica powder. That helps.
Good video. I use Lee Universal Decapping die to deprime - so I have removed the decapping pin from my Collet die. What are your thots on the pin being out? By your description, the 'pedals' would have nothing to form/press against. Wondering if I should replace the pin?
+Lesal8403 I'm not understanding what the advantage is in depriming in another step.Some people do with dirty brass to get the pockets clean before sizing but even that doesn't make sense.
762gunr I deprime, the sonic clean my brass, then go through reloading process. It cleans primer pockets and inside of casings which will impact primer and powder burn. just my method...
Reloading for a M1A. I full length resize my cases. I do not like using factory crimp die because the deformation of the bullet even with a light crimp. Soooo i was kicking around the idea of resizing the neck after a full length resize. Goal is to increase neck tension by .001, currently the LC brass ID is at .306. I want reduce the ID to .305 in hopes to forego having to crimp. Plan is to modifiy the Lee Collet Sizing Die by removing the decapping pin so I can resize the necks on a primed case. Any thoughts? Run'em up the flagpole see if anyones salutes
Setting neck tension by feel like that sounds like a recipe for disaster. Simply measure the neck ID after sizing and you'll have an exact known amount of tension.
Yep. I simply follow the LEE instructions and get .002" neck tension every time. There's really no way to get more other than turning down the mandrel. Not sure I'd be comfortable trying for LESS neck tension by the method in the video but maybe I'll try a few groups that way.
@@Sherman62: I also just follow the Lee instructions as well. Works perfectly. Lee tells you specifically not to cam over on presses that can cam over. As you mention, neck tension is controlled by the diameter of the mandrel. Lee will grind them to diameter for you if you wish.
you should not be able to seat a bullet by hand even with .001 neck tension. Benchrest shooter can load one round at a time with less then .001 neck tension. Hunting rifles bullets will move under .001 neck tension. Generally .002, I have rounds with .001 and they don't move, although I had one bullet move about one to two thousands. For hunting it's not a big deal. But seating a bullet with your fingers? Not a good idea at all.
