Alight, so a few people asked how I plan on charging this battery and I responded that I was going to use the original charger. That wasn't a very good idea, as some of you suggested. The charger I have is for 7.2-14.4V batteries and it doesn't look like it's correctly detecting the new battery as 12V, so the BMS keeps shutting it off. I will need to investigate an alternate way of charging...
Maybe the open circuit voltage is too high for the BMS, ??? I'd get a CC CV DC converter, and use a laptop power supply or something, let us know what you do! The charger may be detecting the low resistance of the LiFePo cells, I don't know if the resistance of nicad is different, the LiFePo cells may be pulling too much current, from the lower resistance, you could replace the internals of the charger with a cc CV DC converter, and modify all the batteries, but I guess the DC converter would charge both types! I may do this, to my charger, since it's the only old dewalt tool I have, I do have a hobby charger, but requires ballance leads, I'll probably use my DC converter to charge, or the Hitachi charger, I'm thinking about paralleling another series of 18650 liion cells to the Hitachi batteries, for longer run time, it's only about twice my dewalt batterys, let us know how this works out!! Great video!!
I'd recommend DC-DC converter to charge. I have done same thing but with lithium cobalt battery and 4s2p configuration (14.4v). I don't even know where charger is so I'll just charge it with DC-DC step up. If you have charger, you could disassemble it and put DC-DC converter here or modify it to charge it some other way? I have disassembled 3 of those nickel cadmium backs and to be honest they looked really much similar to yours. Also I'm using adapter from drill to use 4s quadcopter batteries, that way I can go whole day.
The 18v “XRP Lithium Ion” 18v batteries that DeWalt used between the 18V NiCd and the 20V Li-Ion tools was actually a LiFePo4 pack. The DC9310 charger can charge both the NiCd and LFP packs, and determines the chemistry by detecting a neodymium magnet in the battery case.
did you take apart the xrp battery or the charger to figure that one out, and if not, how did you figure it out? and if this info is accurate this comment should be pinned
For a few years now I've been using 18650's culled from old laptops to rebuild battery packs for my portable tools. I've also been stepping up the voltage whenever practical. Have observed no ill effects so far, in fact the tools now perform as though they've discovered the fountain of youth! Greatest jump taken was couple years ago with a trash picked 14v Briggs & Stratton drill that I stepped up to 18v. It's still working, w/better performance, and still charging, but with a longer run time. Next projects will involve converting two ancient Ryobi 2.4v battery powered twist drills to 18650 w/USB port for charging.
Sorry but I don't agree. LS needs to or at least should look into some pro soldering lessons to up his game. Cleaning the iron tip before each joint, adding a little liquid rosin flux (at times), always tinning the wire strands and opposing conductor, using a wide chisel tip with more thermal mass (faster heat transfer), plugging the mating XT-series connector into the one being soldered (to keep the connection pins from drifting due to heat soaking the Nylon housing) and more. Yes, the joints are better than many I've seen elsewhere but could be better. Sorry to point at you LS but Cody gave me that jab in the ribs and I had to say something. Carry on...
That's an understatement... a bit useless without! I couldn't figure it out so I turned my Nicad machines (mostly, drill) into cabled machines (marking their needed voltage clearly, so able to use one supply that has variable voltage; one tool at a time but better than throwing away).
Thank you for the video. Next time, consider using a piece of dowel to replace the battery in the shaft. You can then screw it into position with a countersunk screw from the side or hold it in using a flat plate on the bottom. Buy a cheap charger for some other brand 12v lithium drill. Where I live there are a couple to pick from for less than $20. Remove the electronics and put it back into the original ni-cad charger plastic case.
You can boost the voltage to 18vdc . So you can use 3.7v (4.2 v ) cells . That will give you up to 17v . Lasts much longer and gives for power throughout the useable load . I used 18v on my 12v black and decker back in 1994 . The commutator was burning but with 18v the drill lasted for more than several years . I learned this trick from makita .
Well done, I have the same drill and its over 25 years old, Black & Decker made a cheap version of the same drill that doesn't have the same power but could use the same De Walt batteries.
Hell Yeah Dude, That's a bad ass upgrade!! It would be nice to share pics of how I did mine (without making a video of my own) I did that with LiOn to one of my old 12v DeWalt drill batts & it worked OK. However I gutted the NiCad Attached to the connector that plugs into the Drill/Charger with a cut off wheel on a Dremel. Used the the shell of the battery for a support to hold the connector in the top of the battery pack & hot glued it in at the bottom of the gutted cell, also I used the gutted cell to solder the NEG wire to. works great!! The other battery I wired it up with 15 feet of 2 conductor #14 OOSJW cable (High Strand Cable For Flexibility) & soldered 20 amp clamps on the other end so I can use it of a car battery if need be. Drill works great on a car/12v AGM or Lead Acid battery as well.
Love seeing things fixed rather than thrown away and copious amounts of money being wasted while all ppl do is stress about money. Educate yourself and learn to fix everything. Saving money is more important to happiness than overworking and making it. I swear id have a full time job dumpster diving and fixing things ppl dont have the capacity to fix or care to even try if i could.
Thank you. I was hesitant to do that afraid of putting pressure on the cells, but in reality, there should never be any force exerted on the contacts. I may do that for the other 2 batteries. I'm still waiting on more of the BMS boards I ordered.
@@LithiumSolar Maybe the cork of a wine bottle works too, for pressing the piece in place, perhaps with some cutting it to shape. If to thin, take champagner cork. :)
Just FYI in case you didn't want to epoxy the other battery you could always use a dowel rod in place of the top most battery used to keep the connect in tight. That way should you ever need to replace the Lipos again that connector would easily slide out again... I have a Bosch NiCad that I've wanted to do this too for decades now but just went Ridgid and called it a day. Something else to consider, but I think this is more an 18v options vs 12v, they make an adapter to use the base of the old style battery and adapt it to accept the new style Batteries in case you already had the newer style batteries... Cheers...
I have a question, i recently repair 2 battery packs, one was makita 3ah and bosch 2.6ah, i used old laptop cell checking of course the amps after discharged and make sure they were all the same(or close, more or less), and kept the original bms of each battery, they charge full but when i use them on the drills under heavy load they shut down, i let it rest for 2 secs and works ok until i drill a long screw and/or heavy load again and i don't know why it does that, any thoughts?, anyone?, thank you.
The cells used in laptop battery packs have a much, much lower continuous/peak discharge capacity than those manufactured for power tools (makes sense, doesn't it? Nothing in a laptop is suddenly going to start drawing 20/30amps all of a sudden). So when you put a heavy loan on the tool, the motor will try to draw more amps than the cells are capable of delivering. I guess the BMS is detecting some sort of problem when you do that (?undevoltage?), and shutting down the battery pack. When you take the load off, it will reset itself ... until the next time.
I've got some older 18v Dewalt tools that started their life with nicad batteries, when the lithium ion craze hit Dewalt was the only company that didn't make you buy all new tools to use lithium ion batteries. I found out that the nicad charger I had would not work with lithium ion batteries, so back in around 2010 to update to two 18v Dewalt lithium ion batteries and a charger was going to cost around $230. I found a refurbished 1/2" 18v Dewalt hammer drill with a charger and two lithium ion batteries for $180 on ebay. The batteries work in all my old tools and everything is still functioning.
17.8 Wh on the new battery pack. If the old NiCd cells were 1700mAh then the old pack was about 20.4 Wh so not too bad and not that much lower however the life cycle could now be measured in decades as opposed to mere years. lol.
Exactly what I was thinking. Less Wh but will last much longer. The problem is I now have to wait another 2 months for another BMS. I should have just ordered 3 at once lol.
@@LithiumSolar Ahhh, that old dilemma. Why is it when you try to plan ahead and order multiple items for future, they turn out to be junk and you have buyers remorse and when you try to be cautious, you end up wishing you'd ordered more 🤔
No. Spot-welding is a type of actual welding. It puts a large amount of current through two tiny probes close together that melts the nickel strip and bonds it with the steel battery casing.
I am really interested to see the charging solution you come up with.. I have a number of devices I'd like to convert to 18650's. But from what I understand these BMS boards are not capable of charging, but are definitely required for safety of the battery such as preventing over-discharge, short circuit, etc.. I have an iSDT Q6 300W hobby charger that would work great, but getting all the connections and balance leads out is the challenge.
How do you spot weld these? I have no 0.15 mm Nickel strap laying around. I have Li-Ion batteries already, that all ten are dead. This is version #1 for Craftsman Pro Series tools sold in the late 2000's, but these have good cells & bad but has the battery management system on top inside the batteries case. They use a PTC thermistor placed on top of the pack. As an auto tech, long retired, is the BMS board battery management? And is 4S2P meaning 4 in series and 2 in parallel? I am guessing. Also orange batteries that must be Sanyo with orange cover and tiny blue cap. Also, if a good cell is disconnected from a bad cell, that may have discharge a perfectly good one, can a single cell be charged by itself?
I came to ask the same question about spot welding. A quick search showed me dedicated machines from $110 - $2000+ or sketchy looking circuit boards for under $20.
Minute 1:01 just a tip on the side, if you don't have a torx safety bit, you can also simply use a flat-head screwdriver to break the pin out of the screw head and loosen the screw with an ordinary torx bit
I did the same thing to my 14.4 volt Dewalt, but used my string trimmer 20volt lithium ion pack, as it is. They were $35 for two packs, a heck of a lot cheaper than the Dewalt packs. I use the string trimmers charger also. I plug two wires into the pack and velcro it on to the drill. Works great.
They actually sell updated lithium ion batteries to replace the old nickel cadmium batteries for older Dewalts . I just recently replaced some old nic cad batteries from a 18 volt Dewalt kit I picked up cheap that was new. A 2 pack of Dewalt 18 volt litium ion batteries and charger was 99.99 at Lowes.
yup a bit less on scamazon and fleabay, but you cant pick it up until it arrives. :O Iam thinking of trying that lith pak on my 18v dewalt. the natt pak has a charge indication too. www.amazon.com/Powilling-Innovation-Lithium-Ion-Replacement-Batteries/dp/B07RBMG4WP/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=cM6ED&pf_rd_p=96894308-003d-47e2-95f7-e4f2f97a8c14&pf_rd_r=ZSRP0KNHZE52TN17GR97&pd_rd_r=a6073b79-a0d1-4abb-a37c-ec7beb3a1ede&pd_rd_wg=dw4dS&ref_=pd_gw_hlp13n_t4im take a peak ;) [folks claim our dewalt chargers (mine a 9116) are able to charge the lith bat pak] (if not - return bat pak or buy a new charger)
@@toknowljI have a old DW9116 charger and it wouldnt charge the lithium Ion batts, for me anyways . If you find a DC9310 charger it will charge both styles and you can pick them up cheap cheap used . Best feature of replacing with lith ion is the weight difference and its alot 😂
Is the drill/ battery pack still operational? Also battery link is not working, I was try to get some good cell for same project, any recommendations? (Link please)
Yep, still works great. I wish I would have used higher capacity batteries though. Unfortunately, I don't think eBay allows 18650 cells to be sold on their site anymore.
Thanks for your detailed video on this topic, also the comments are full of helpful information! Good stuff! Did anyone ever try to fit a Dewalt DC9144 (14.4V Lithium battery) to this generation of tools? It looks quite similar and might just fit "plug 'n play" along with a specific charger.
Why wouldn't using two dual battery holders for 18650 battery, solder in a series and connect them to the battery spades? I have a 12v Ryobi battery I was going to try that with as the NiCd battery is shot and only used to turn over a starter motor on a weed eater. Recharging with a wall charger for deer feeder batteries.
For charging my 2P3S mini-bank I bought a £6 wall-wart for RC model battery charging, constant current, constant voltage thing. Plug it in, 2 1/2 hrs later, red LED goes green, mini-bank does another 4 days hand-portable radio use. My AEG NiCd batteries went the same way, so lap-top battery time!
I rebuilt my matco cordless ratchet, with new 18650's because the old ones failed in the battery pack, I had 2 battery packs failed, And a new battery is like 70 bucks, I actually bought a cheap battery for something else and harvest the cells. I had enough to rebuild both bad battery packs. The point is I don't charge mine with old charger, I Actually use a current limiting bench top dc power supply, and hook up directly to the main Pos and Neg on the battery and charge it that way, using wire etc, I use low current at 12V and they charge up fine. I have charged them a few times this way and no issues so far, The power supply shows me current draw and when its near 0 they are done. They also got a power meter light deal and it shows full when done. My battery packs each hold 3 cells.
Cool build. You could have skipped the epoxy with super glue and baking soda combo. Also, I thought Lithium batteries needed chargers that had the CC/CV functionality. Do Ni-Cad chargers do the same thing?
I just used jbweld epoxy. I didn't use super glue or baking soda? Was there a better way to attach the terminals? I still have two more to do and can do it differently if there's a better way.
@@LithiumSolar You did a good job. I was just saying the super glue + baking soda is almost instant, so you wouldn't have had to wait the night like you did with the epoxy. But if you weren't in a hurry then it's not a big deal.
It was just 6 weeks ago that I had a similar dilemma when my last 12V battery died. I wasn't thrilled with the idea of throwing away money on another 12V battery, so I went the easy way and just bought a new 20V tool. I still have the 12V one in the garage. The 20V version is smaller and lighter than the 12V tool it replaced. At the end of the day, I guess the question is, was it worth the effort? How much did you spend on the new batteries and the BMS circuit card?
Super good point! I got a basically new 12V DeWalt drill for free from a good friend to play with. Because vaping is so popular Samsung INR 18650 cells (6 of them) was about $25. The BMS for 18650 cells (almost exactly what LithiumSolar used) only cost about $1.50 each. I also bought a charge indicator light and those were about $1 each. So materials for me to rebuild two 12v packs was just under $30. I'm not doing it for the fame though - more something fun to experiment with and if I can keep a good tool from ending up in the landfill I'm happy.
What wasn't stated is how you charge the pack. Or does the BMS (+) (-) contacts @ 8:21 he stated as charger/appliance work as both a charge input and a load output output?
Next you should do, "how to convert ryobi drill to Lithium ion" ....oh wait. Just buy a lithium battery. 😄 in all seriousness though, awesome video! This is so cool
@@LithiumSolar Ryobi Li-Ion batteries are reasonably priced? How about a link to these "reasonably priced" batteries? The reason I'm watching videos like this are because I'm staring across the room at 4 dead 18V Ryobi batteries and have 2 others that are heading toward death. I also have an old Skil 14.4V and an old Ryobi 9.6V that are both dead. My 18V Ryobi tools are numerous. I love all these things as they are so handy, but the constant changing of batteries and waiting for charge drives me nuts.
Isn't BMS continuous operating current too high with batteries connected in series ( battery continuous discharge current 21A, BMS board continuous operating current 40A)?
I’ve got a industrial grade makita drill and impact driver set with ni/cad batteries that don’t hold a charge and cost $200 to replace. Some day I should really look into replacing the cells. I’ve just always worried about how to get the charger to work. I’ve always assumed the original charger wouldn’t be compatible with lithium cells
You could have screwed the charging plug in place with a very short screw to biind onto the fitting. With apoxy it is a oone shot. Good video well done.
I have had a similar issue with my Dewalt 18v batteries always going dead. Eventually the brushes in the motor went bad so no conversion for me. Strangely, My older 12v Skil drill did not have as many battery issues. I now have Ryobi because someone gave me a Chop saw/case with a bunch of blue tools and I have been adding the new green tools with chargers and batteries.
I suppose you have to mechanically rebuild a Lipo charger since there is a difference in the charging profile for nicad and LiFePO4 batteries. Regarding the lack of space with LiPo 18650, couldn't you have 3D-printed a small layer to be placed in between?
@LithiumSolar Nice work, but there is some errors to your ways. Firstly, you used the wrong batteries. For this application, you don't look at pulse discharge. You must look at continuous discharge. You want your batteries to be rated at least 20A. I've seen Ryobi use 15A continuous discharge, but they seem to be the only ones. I would have used a 4S Lithium-Ion cells with 20A continuous discharge (or more). You also want your cut out for your BMS current discharge to be at 20A. You don't want to allow your BMS to allow the battery to go above it's rating or the battery can overheat, specially in such a small confined space. Other than this, great job and nice video.
DeWalt actually sold a lithium pack for the 12v/14.4v/18v-style batteries. You could charge it on the NiCd charger, but it was lighter and acted like a Lion battery. It might be helpful to find one, tear it apart, and figure out how DeWalt did it.
Would be good if you had compared the lithium performance to the nicd ones. Ive seen alot conversions but no one did ever a comparison of it. I have an ol nicd drill with good batterys im interested in it but i still clues if its worthy or not
If you have good batteries, I would just leave them alone. I wouldn't have done this if my NiCad battery was working. I guess the only way to do performance testing would be apply a heavy load and see what the discharge capacity is NiCad vs Lithium.
NiCd cells if show 0V they have cristalisation betwee chatode and anode. Short burst high current will help to cell work again. Do the short burst current few time when show some voltage and not loose voltage. Charge it. I have 40 year old NiCd battery cells and they work. This cannot be used on NiMH
I use 12V even for single cell. Current must to be enough strong but short. C cells , you can shock cell with 5A but not too much long. When crystal bridge melted, cels start to charge up. So 1 to 2 second must be shock time. Normally this cell which show 0V have short circuit true crystall bridge, you can brake this bridge. Voltage just need to bi bigger than normall voltage of single cell. I do this on many battery pack but cell by cell. NiMH cannot save with those method make even more damage. In old days NiCd cells people even make capacitor bank to shock cells. NiCd dont like too small charge current. I charge 8.6V NiCd battery pack from mains(Europe standard 220V) just need 1 diode and 1 huge resistor. Not my idea I just copy what I found long ago. Even today rechargable flashlight chinese make charger on this simple way.
Very interesting, I've just learned many things thanks to you. So thank you very much for the clarity of your teaching . Can you tell me around how much you think this project cost? Thank you
LithiumSolar Short answer, I wouldn’t do it. Look for a BMS/Charger combo that meets your cells C rating or less than C rating for charging and balancing. Add a DC jack to the battery pack for power to the BMS/Charger. You can use a separate charging board and BMS but it will take up more space and need to be wired differently. But don’t use the NiCad/NiMH charger for lithium based cells. Long answer: The charging algorithms are different for lithium based cells vs NiCad/NiMH cells. NiCad/NiMH chargers trickle charge on the last stage, lithium’s chargers just cut off so they don’t over charge, trickle charging a lithium cell will over charge it. NiCad/NiMH chargers tend to overshoot on the voltage when charging, but lithuim cells don’t like this at all and charging is more regulated on both voltage and current. NiCad chargers don’t monitor temperature to cut off charging and were expected to get hotter during charging without being volatile like lithium based cells that are more sensitive to temperature and can go into a thermal runaway. I’ll admit that LiFe cells are less volatile then LiIon cells, but charging them wrong greatly increases the risk. Lithium cells are safer vs NiCad/NiMH cells when lithium cells are properly charged, but lithium cells require a much more complex charging circuit.
@@GadgetReviewVideos was thinking along the same lines... but Lifepo4 is pretty safe so don't think you need to worry about life cycles or it's overheating and burning.. but if I was doing the same I'd try it with the original charger first but keep an eye on it and do a few tests to see if it cuts off properly at the the top end of the charging cycle. And see if the BMS and original chargers "smarts" get along.. I've not just take for granted that everything is going to work fine. It's probably something I did enjoy testing out for myself 😊
@@GadgetReviewVideos Lithium cells are never safer than NiCd or NiMH. Writing "properly charged" in no way guarantees that everything keeps working. Life lesson: Things break, and then the test of the design is what happens when things break.
Stinky Cheese “Things break”, I would consider that an inherent risk with any battery charging system. I think most good BMS/Charging systems can detect a fail or break and stop/won’t charge the cells.
Does anyone have a link to these LFP 18650's or equivalent? The link is no longer valid. Also, what are the trade-offs of using other chemistries? Thanks.
I have been using the old charger, I just have to watch when it shuts off and remove the battery, otherwise it keeps trying to charge it. It's a bad idea so I wouldn't recommend, but it works for now while I figure out an alternate solution.
LithiumSolar It’s good you recognized that trickle charging with the NiCD/NiMH chargers final charging stage. It seems to me the only solution might be to get a proper charger board and replace the current charger board with it. Or if you can find a BMS charger mix board and put a DC jack on the side of the battery for charging it, but most of the combined board have a slow current charge. or if the chargers microprocessor firmware can be modified to turn that trickle charge off, but that can be a complicated way of doing it and your videos seem to show simple ways that most people can do.
I misunderstood because 3.3V was printed on the cell and you say both. I don’t get the whole nominal thing, but 12.8v isn’t 12. Is that essentially close enough to be a negligible difference in function? I’m not trolling. I’m want to learn more about electricity. Like, if somehow possible, would anything say 11.8 to 13.2V still be close enough?
@@EricWebSurfer Huh, you're right - it does say 3.3V on the sleeve. I can't explain that one especially considering 99.9% of LFP cells are 3.2V AND the datasheet shows 3.2V. Yes, 11.8V would be "close enough" too. Another common example is the 12V battery in you car. It's a 12V battery but if you put a voltmeter on it while the car is running, you'll see it charges around 14.3-14.6V :)
I never use power tools away from a source of electricity. Still, when they came out with the battery operated power tools I was excited to get them. With decades of replaceing batteries, I frigg'in lost it. Loosing it, meaning, I complain like a crazy person. I did this for while. Then this one person said, "Yeah, that's why I never buy them. I just use plug in." Pop, the bubble was burst. Why the hell was I using barttey operated tools? I was near a power source every time. Battery operated tools are great when you need them, but otherwise, they are insane.
Should have read previous comments, sorry. Have you resolved the charging issue? I have a bunch of Dewalt 14.4 tools I would like to convert to lithium. Your technique is a good model.
I haven't figured out a permanent solution. I'm still using an iCharger x6 as it hasn't become too inconvenient yet. It's a low-priority problem to solve at this point.
@@LithiumSolar Thanks for taking the time to respond. Charging LiFePO4 batteries is just a little scary because of being unpredictable. Anyway appreciate your video.
Thank you, thank you, thank you for not making us watch you loosen and tighten every screw. I have tried combining "good" ni-cad cells from two battery packs into one, but that never seems to work as well as when they were new. The circuitry of that little board is well beyond my pay grade, but an interesting video nonetheless.
LithiumSolar I see, I just thought if you cut a dowel the same length as the batt then mount the contacts to it then use the old mounting system rather then glue. I’m asking because I have a 12 volt DeWalt myself and may need to do this also lol
when I repacked some makita 14.4v recently I 3d printed a spacer to fit but a piece of 20mm electrical conduit also works if split along its length to get the wires in. If it is not secure enough you can always hot glue the bottom end of the pipe as it is easier to get to if need be.
@@LithiumSolar Use a slightly short dowel piece so it does not put pressure on the cells, then hold it in place with a counter-sunk screw though the side of the plastic case.
3:30 I think that BMS board like many others don't do any balancing making it useless. Once one cell charges to 4.2v it will stop the charging on the other cells which may be a lower voltage. I've tested a few of the cheap ones you see on the internet and they all behave like that.
@@LithiumSolar Have you actually tested it though and watched the cells voltages? The ones I tested claim to have balancing, but it just doesn't work. Usually because the resistors are so low power that any balancing is orders of magnitude too small and a cell hits 4.2v and shuts off the whole charging cycle way before any balancing has any effect.
I haven't read all the comments here, but is this really worth the bother? I bought a whole DeWalt set with drill and impact driver, two batteries and charger for $99. I'm sure I'll get several years or more use of all the tools. To do the above conversion, I'd have to buy the cells, the circuit board, two kinds of special tape, connectors, figure out how to spot weld (not shown in the video) and, apparently, get a different charger. I have to think I'd spend most or all of $99 to do so. But then, I wouldn't be sticking it to the Man.
the BMS board balances load between each cell. if you don't have one, you can have one cell overdischarge by accident, and these lithium batteries REALLY don't like it when you do that. it also has general overdischarge protection for the whole pack..
I'll bet that you could just run standard Li-ion cells with a appropriate BMS, and the charger shouldn't over volt it. also those older brushed motors are pretty forgiving jumping up a few volts, if DeWalt even used a lower voltage motors in the 12v vs the 18v. (you could go to a thrift store and grab a cheap drill to test it out.)
I have modified my bosch battery, from nicd to lirhium. But when i charge it with old nicd battery charger for few hours its become super hot but not explode yet. Does anyone know the solution? Thanks
I have a 18v version I'm about to do this to, I only get about 6, 1/2" holes in 1/2" aluminum, before I can tell it's about done, my Hitachi 18v lithium battery drill is only slightly better, I may put xt60 connectors on my Hitachi charger , so I can charge both batteries after the conversion, I don't want to use the nicad charger with liion, I do have high current 26650 lifepo4 cell though, I may use, since I have more room in the 18v xrp battery case, how does the charger work with the cells?
