My thoughts on PSI are that the discharge of an AC pump is easily up to 200 PSI before it's considered too high for head pressure, so this should very comfortably pump 120 to 150 all day long. Plus you are using a pump that was originally rated for continuous duty but will probably only see intermittent duty if it's just filling an air tank. So operating at compressor duty at around 150 PSI only compressing ambient air instead of hot freon should give you plenty of air to fill up whatever tank and then some without straining the heat or duty cycle limits of the compressor. Combine that with a manual on and off master toggle switch for the clutch combined with a low pressure switch kicking in at about 90 psi and a high pressure cutoff at about 160 to 170 psi. Well done.
So I have some notes for anyone doing this because this is by far the best vid on this and I suck with a camera. The bearing race on the pulley side when you split the case it has tabs make sure to line them up😅 I found out the hard way. Also no one has mentioned anywhere about timing it. I didnt know either until I noticed it wasnt moving enough air for what it is and was making alot of noise. When you put the pistons back in move the swash plate all the way to one side so it engages with the bevel gear and look at the rod it should be straight and at tdc. Not sure if this is the way the factory would do it but it seems to have shut mine up and speed it up alot. Drilling the outlet a few drill bits bigger also helped it make more air volume. It fills my 50 gal system from zero to 90psi in about 2min this way before it was about 3min
I did this to the sanden on my Cherokee a few years ago. I drilled another hole in the housing next to the grease zerk and added a small vent. The compressor gets really hot during use so the pressure in that sealed housing was pushing the grease past the piston seals. Works great though after being vented.
@@bradfordcustoms7588 I wouldn't as the crank cases on these are supposed to be at working pressure. This may not sound important but I'm not familiar with these rings. They do look funky so I'd leave it sealed as working pressure is far above what we use them at and the case is made to be under pressure. I know mine moves lots of air and I dont see big losses at higher pressures so I'd say I'm not getting ring flutter. Most of the failures I found were either heat or rings not sealing. All the cases I found of ring failure had vented crank cases. Alot of these types of rings use the pressure on the back to even the pressure differential across the ring pack so it does hold to some things like these for sure. I will say I just recently cut some PVC pipe and glued it on with jb weld between the mounting posts and I have my drain after it. I just leave it cracked so it gets some flow and I can put my hand on it about 2min after a hard run painting a car. I believe these are probably the two best things you can do for it along with a high temp molly grease and drilling the outlet side a few bits bigger (I saw a gain in flow and loss in heat)
Where exactly did you glue the pvc and how big did you drill out the outlet? Thank you for this post. It sounds like you're really familiar with these and how to modify them.
I use tool oil in mine for my on board air it’s still working just perfect no issues original compressor from my 95 jeep grand Cherokee and I converted it 10 years ago no issues
the other benefit about these compressors is can stand much higher pressures so if you really wanted you could store more air in your tank at lets say 300 psi mind you getting the tank that can handle that plus the regulators to drop that pressure can also be an issue
So why couldn’t you just block of the head side with the 1/4-20 and fill other side with atf? That would keep it cool and you could tap a drain so that you can service it now and again? Has anyone tried it? I’m just hung up on the grease part.
This looks similar to the Sanden 709 on 97-06 Jeep Wrangler etc and supposedly is 9cfm at 1000rpm. Extreme Outback also has some modified and ready that are similar. They advertise as 8cfm I believe
Really cool man I’m trying figure out how to get my Toyota stuff working. Plan was to get it started 3 years ago but hay way she goes right. Hope I can use this to get a plan together 🤙🏾. Also please put down cardboard I’m having flashbacks of carburetor parts falling through my porch 😂
I'm thinking you could just put a catch basin in the pressure side to catch the oil, then have a valve on a timer that blows the oil in the vacuum line every so often.
Awesome video, one question is why connect the inlet to the intercooler? Is it because the compressor can’t draw it’s own air in or just for cooling purposes?
Yea but then I have to constantly add oil and then catch the oil from the compressed air, then drain that oil and buy more. Grease is easier and less maintenance and has been proven to work well. We will see tho. If it dosnt work I’ll go back to the junk yard and get another and try oil
I've just put a few drops of Aircompressor oil in the foam intake filter aver few trips. Never ever had an issue even filling up 8-12 of mi friends 44' super shapers in a row.
Been crazy busy with work but when I find spare time I’ll try and get an update video out on the truck I’m building. 79 f250 crew cab on a 2011 f250 chassis. Getting a compound turbo 6.7 cummins and will be on air ride and 35s. Should air out and sit on the tires then air up 10-12” to drive turn and tow
High power fan works very well keep damn Florida mosquitoes away. Lol Also, I was listening to the song you whistled a few times in your video today. Lol
Been wanting to modify my air compressor in my garage so I can have enough air to use a sand blaster I'm thinking of taking 3 car compressors and hopefully that will fill my 60 gallon tank fast
Bradford customs. Almost as bad as Columbia customs lol I’m over in Lake City man ran across your video figured I’d give you a shout appreciate the good information I’m going to do one for my ram 2500. How did it work out for you in the long run
@@bradfordcustoms7588 Baker, Bradford hell it’s all the same. Lol. Ok let me know when you. Maybe we can meet up and I’ll show ya what I’m trying to do.
In your analysis of CFM around the 10:35 mark, you didn't make any mention of pressure. Was the comparison of this compressor vs the cheap store bought one both at zero psi? 60psi?
I attempted to converted the pump cc to cfm but did not factor in the exponential growth of psi. So just assume I’m an idiot and was talking out my butt at that point lol several people have brought this to my attention and I’m not smart enough to figure that part out
@@bradfordcustoms7588 Thanks for the reply! I wonder if it's just a matter of factoring it by a compression ratio. Such as when you do a compression test on an engine it will never be higher than a certain PSI.
I found your video to be very helpful. I'm getting ready to buy a a/c unit and I was wondering if that works with all of them. And when you convert them into air compressors will the clutch kick on and off stopping the air from exceeding the pressure of the tank. Or do I have to get something else to do that . Keep up the great videos you do a fantastic job on them . God Bless you and your family. 💪🏼💯👍👍🙏🙏✌😊✌
Could this be done with the LT1 94-96 smog air pump? Some people cancel that pump… I would use it to power my bags. My ac work on my car and I need it.
@@timenotwaisted3053 That makes sense. But what I was asking is if it has to be this compressor, or can any this style be converted. I probably should have worded it better.
Since you’ve blocked the oil pass through do you not need to have an oil catch inline? I’m looking to do something like this to run air ride on my town car
I want to know if this will hold up being ran every day for air ride and the guys I seen here on RU-vid that said they been running for 10yrs or more are just using them here and there on the trail to fill there own and buddy's tires witch is nothing like filling tanks 2 or 3 or more every day 365 days a yr and how long will it last? I'm build a air ride f350 with a dt360 and Allison 6 speed and np205 iv been thinking of trying one of these or a York 210 I just cant decide if i want to chance it I need more people using it everyday to see there thoughts. thanks for sharing
What’s a used 20$ compressor from the junkyard if it works for several years. I just didn’t want to run the load and slow viair stuff. Just like with anything that has bearings. If you keep them greased it will last a long time.
Plus they are all teflon coated with high temp teflon style seals as well. Almost no actual metal on metal whatsoever... they're pretty incredible little pieces of engineering honestly.
Yea that would work as well. Would have more oil blow by tho going to the compressed air would need to have a oil and water separator for the air before the tank
Yea that would work as well. Would have more oil blow by tho going to the compressed air would need to have a oil and water separator for the air before the tank
I would think the grease needs some kind of vent to prevent hydrolocking/ vacuum problems. Oil and a brass breather like my single piston would be a good option. The vdot compressor is a great choice, i want to upgrayedd! Thx
@@bradfordcustoms7588 This looks like a great idea. I'm considering to try this on a lift where we need compressed air. If you put oil in the back side of the pistons wouldn't it be sealed from the compressed air side?
Yo I have a Chevy Silverado 2004 1500 extended cab 2wd 4.7 liter and I converted a Saden SD7H15 into an onboard air compressor. I’m having difficulty on installing it, can u please help me out. I wud really appreciate it if u can
@@nutsbolts1484 normal ac systems see pressures in the 400 range depending on Freon level and outside conditions. I plan to run my system at 150psi continuous. Will have a pressure switch that turns the pump on at 120psi and off at 150. Wi have a safety valve that releases at 175
if you had use a torque wrench spec and put it at back at the proper setting it called for and not the 30-60lbs your big ass wrench put down you might not had to remove shim. just saying!... you guys that are so proud of how clean and precise every thing is. Then when you get down to the assembly of some of the most critical Items and refuse to use a torque wrench?? It matters on a lot of close tolerance parts ,
I don’t refuse to use one, it just isn’t critical to me. It works just fine and is a fun side project. Feel free you use a torque wrench on yours. If I was selling this as a product then it would be torqued but I’m not so it’s fine. Do you know the proper torque spec to help other likeminded people like yourself?
