Just a hoot!!! I absolutely love this 395….288 addition…. I’m just so grateful that I started playing with these 10-12 years ago when you were cranking out all those first videos and to have gotten to play with and build all these super fun and “good working!..,,get the wood cut up too!!’” Just a fantastic and run low budget hobby! 👍😁
Hey Walt, great video. A possible solution to your moisture issue in your camera - I keep a gallon Ziploc with about 20-30 of those little silica packs mixed with rice for those occasions when a phone or what have you device gets accidentally soaked. Rice alone will work but those little silica packs really boost the drying time.
I absolutely hated the g288 I had. Was a pile out of the box. Had to buy a new oiler performance sucked. Even after I ported it. It wasn't anything to write home about. Traded it even up for a Husqvarna 372xp 😂
awesome comparison video. Are you also interested in talking something about the maintenance of a chainsaw? Hipa makes parts for chainsaws and maybe we would collaborate to help more people?
A great video, I have bought a Holzfform G395XP, had it 5 and a half months now and have only managed to start it 4 times, It doesn't have a good enough drop off the compression to turn over fast when hand cranking to start, all my other saws the compression drops off and are easy to turn over to start , when I have managed to start the saw it is a beast and I like it. with slow cranking speed it tends to want to flood , because its not producing a good spark at cranking speed. Kim, way down in New Zealand.
Walt, to dry your phone/GoPro out stick them for 24hr INSIDE of a large qty of UNcooked rice and it’ll suck all of the moisture out! Doesn’t seem to hurt the rice for future cooking either.(might if other liquids though)
Afleet, page 85 and 86 in the manual on the 288 talks about the 228B carb having a bypass, it says Tillotson could have as much as 10% bypass on it. After I get mine up and running and everything set and dialed in I may tear the carb apart and turn a solid brass plug and see if I can delete the bypass, I have heard of others using stuff to plug up the existing but I have never tried that either and that may be easier to drill it part of the way and place a brass plug in the drilled hole to fill it in, the knock off carbs are cheap enough that if it doesn't work out I can always just get another knock off or get an OEM but they are around $80. I did it on a CS-590 but used a plug out of another carb to do it. I cut mainly around 7K and up so cutting the fuel a fair amount will help me vs being at a lower elevations.
My brother has both a 395XP and an older 288XP (metal chainbrake handle, high top air, & no compression release). The 395 is a real beast, but I can't help but like the cackle of the 288. That Chyna 288 does sing a similar tune.
Cookie cut races are always a blast to watch! I'd love to see the G395 vs one of your 660 builds if you still have one laying around if you find the time. That'd be a lot closer race
I ordered a G288 as it has same ratio on the piston and bore as my old trusty Husqvarna 77 only 2mm each . You can lean that 77 right out . Hope the G288 is the same way. Notice your sounds like be leaned out more but its a different beast then old 77..
Great haying weather. It's is nice to see ash trees that are still alive, most of the ones I cut this week were dead. The 394 was a runner out of the box but the 395 really comes to life with a muffler mod and porting. It would be interesting to see the 394xp and g395 run together stock.
If you ever do tear the 288 and the 395 down it would be interesting to see what the piston to cylinder fit up is doing. According to Mahle (if I remember correctly) a 372 should be around .004 smaller on piston, however on two new Husky OEM PC kits they are both reading right at .002 clearance. My AM PC kits I have on there now I have .004 and almost .006 and both ported to the exact same timings, the .004 flat out stomps the .006. I'm still waiting for Huztl to send my replacement 288 cylinder so I can play with the port timing on it then I plan to use a Meteor Nikasil or Hyway Titanikel but I believe I like the looks of the Meteor cylinder walls and ports a bit more than the Hyway, it seems like a cleaner manufacture.
I'm torn as I want to test it in a work environment as it came out of the box.....but seeing how it runs I want to take it to the next level both in performance but making it solid as well.
@@afleetcommand I understand and I was torn on my build as well but decided since mine was a build kit that I really only wanted to do it once. Most would pick on me since I did the same with my 372's but I am actually not using half or better of the parts that came with the kit. I am either using good used OEM, new OEM or what I consider quality AM parts: Used OEM-Crank, coil, spring isolators, muffler (for spark arrest). New OEM-Trigger, Operator presence lever (not needed but didn't like the feel of theirs and they where cheap to buy OEM), seals, oiler, piston bearing, recoil/starter spring, low top cover, oil and fuel cap, On/off switch (had my 372's fail early). What I consider quality AM-P/C kit (Meteor), Oregon rim and drum, Echo fuel line, NGK spark plug, FAG 6203 C3 bearings (Japan), LRB pop up piston. IF and only if I am happy with all this in the end and I decide it's what I want in performance then I am considering a Pro Safety full wrap.
afleet. Sorry for the additional comment but I'm curious. Have you checked the 288's rpm in the cut? You may have in a previous and I missed it. I know it's still breaking in and I'm sure you have checked the specs for max power, I'm not defending the 288 and maybe I'm hearing it wrong but it sounds a bit fat still in the cut: 281 @ 9000rpm 288 @ 9300rpm 395 @ 9600rpm.
Speculating a bit, but It seems to have an enrichening circuit like many saws of that era....no matter how lean you make it. So yup went around the block on that saw looking for RPM's. My old Jonsereds had carbs with those and I would plug them to get past their function. Not sure yet on the g288 but will eventually pull the carb and see if it too has one. For now I'm working it AS delivered and its a great work saw.
@@afleetcommand I know what you mean about the circuit, I was unaware that they had them on the 288 where I am new to it. I ended up blocking it off on a CS-590.
I like it. Have to do the typical d-bug, but the basic chassis is worth the effort from what I'm seeing, even changing out the piston. Seems like the later ones don't have that as an issue. One to the two best from Farmertec in my humble opinion, but like ALL things, you have to have the right expectation or you will be disappointed. It's not a 1200 level OEM saw, but it's close enough to work with
yup. are u a commercial logging type? It's really only those guys who have to worry about the earlier versions. And my guess most that were potentially an issue already did. :) Have fun with that saw. Should be a solid machine
@@afleetcommand I’m only a firewood cutter that uses wood stove as only and primary heat source but I go through quite a bit of firewood. My 372xp x torque is a 2018 model and I’ve been watching these saws on RU-vid and I’m liking what I’m seeing from them. They look strong and seem to be good saws. I’m just itching for a new saw and having thoughts of selling mine to replace with a Holtzforma or Farmertec. Just wanted to get your opinion on the matter
I would keep your saw, hang on to it like its the last saw you will ever have. THEN if you want to "play" in the blue world u have a back up. Saws are cheap relative to timber or even firewood after you figure how much oil u DON'T have to buy. Keep the OEM saw. Play as a hobby type would with a blue saw. They aren't stable enough to depend on for most
