I have learned more from you, J. Easily w/o a doubt, it was to a point I almost deleted PS from my subs, never thought about it w/ you, specially now with WBWII.
between you and Paul, you've convinced me to not buy power tools... I just can't handle the noise and i'm in no rush to get stuff done, it's just a hobby. Thank you so much for putting your vids out there.
@@carbonitegamorrean8368 You might have learned more from this apprentice-level woodworker (James), but I find it pretty bush to say on the Master's page (Paul), that you felt his work worth deleting. If you pay attention to the two of them and their content, you will notice that the apprentice gets a lot of his material for his channels from watching Paul and using Pauls's videos (some appear almost step by step the same). The apprentice just re-brands them making them appear as his own idea. The true apprentice would give credit where credit was due (especially if he copies and rebrands the idea into a video). There is no harm or loss of value/stature in giving credit, it shows the true gratitude, maturity, and grace that is so lacking on RU-vid and in society today. A different take on the subject is helpful, but state where the idea came in the first place. YMMV
When I was a kid my dad made a wooden jigsaw puzzle for me and my sisters using a coping saw and a pyrography pen with a wire nib burner tip to draw on the wood, and he made many wooden animals too! I still have that puzzle and that made me fall in love with crafts and wood working, I'm using that same coping saw now to make beads from coconut and bamboo for necklaces and jewerly
To expand upon coping saw use you might illustrate a 'Coped joint' on baseboard inside corners. I am a retired finish carpenter. Nowadays walls are finished with drywall. Taping and mudding causes corners to be out of square. In the case of inside corners there is just one way to get tight looking joints - and that is to cope them. One piece of baseboard is cut square on a miter saw. The other is cut with a 45 degree bevel on the end. The coping saw is used to remove the material inside the bevel so there is a negative of the shape of the molding. When the two pieces are assembled the joint, if cut well, will look perfect.
I agree with this completely. There is an allusion to a coped joint beginning around 16:15. I think an illustration of this kind of joint and how the coping saw is used to cut it would be instructive to beginning woodworkers and would give an understanding to the name of the saw.
I was heavy handed with a coping saw, and had trouble. Once I stopped muscling the coping saw, everything was easier. Actually, I stopped muscling everything, and everything works better.
Good on you. Always make sure your tools are sharp. Tools are there to make the task easier. A blunt chisel or saw will bite you because you are having to battle it. Take the time to learn the art of tool sharpening. It will pay great dividends,
@@EdwardRLyons I have heard this so so often and I do like it, but it does not really contain the essence. I mean if you let the saw do the work, it would lay on the bench and nothing would get cut, you have to work the saw for it to cut. So you stand there moving the saw back and forth with no force and you'll be there a long long time (not that I'm impatient); the saw is designed to be pushed in to the wood or what ever you are cutting for it to work. For me it is more accurate (and this is no slight to your departed father) to say, let the saw cut at your pace, don't force it. A person skilled at using a saw can cut super fast but they have the experience and know how to get those teeth digging in and the right amount of force and the constant direction of that force to keep those teeth moving smoothly and true. Long story short, don't be impatient and try to cut so fast that you loose control; there is no enjoyment in having the saw jamming or going off course.
I was introduced to a coping saw when learning how to install crown mouldings. When coping inside corners, you want to cut on the push so you don't tear out the wood on the face.
Cut & turn simultaneously, density, consistency within the work, and thickness are diamonds 💎 for education on the square-bow-of-broken-dreams. Thank you!!
A video showing how to sharpen/recondition old router plane blades including the pointed ones, would be great! I have just purchased my first ever Record 071 router plane from Ebay and am sure that when it arrives, the cutters will need some TLC! Also a video describing the differences between and the different uses for the 71 size router plane and the smaller 271 router plane, would be much appreciated. I love all your videos Paul. They make addictive viewing. Your gentle manner and clear love/respect for your craft is inspirational!
Just to add to my previous post: Paul, I now have a record 071 router plane, but the spear point cutter is both blunt and has no point (it looks like the very tip has broken off). I also now have a miniature Stanley 271 router plane, but the cutter is slightly off centre when the thumbscrew is tightened. Any advice you can give on fettling these issues, especially in a video, would be very gratefully received.
Was taught to use a fret/juwelers saw and never considered using a coping saw on the push stroke. Thanks, Uncle Paul, for opening up my range of options.
Thank you Paul for clearing up the coping saw “push/pull” question, and answering the other questions as well. I continue to learn something every time I watch one of your videos. The Q&A series is a nice bonus. Cheers. Michael O. Alabama, USA
I finally broke down and replaced my old hardware store coping saw frame with a UK made saw you recommend, that coupled with a handful of better quality blades made all the difference in the world for me! Never had much luck using a coping saw, and now find myself reaching for this saw more and more each month. Thank you Thank you, as usual following your advice my woodworking has improved immensely over the last handful of years. Please keep up your good work and I still need more help sharpening my panel saws.
Thank you Paul, for all your information/knowledge. I had to plane the top closing edge of an old solid timber door door yesterday. I rubbed an oil rag on my plane and was done in seconds. Plus I was covered in six layers of old paint that was nice.😊👍🏻
Hi Paul - A luthier uses the fret saw to saw the groves that the metal frets are placed in on the neck of of a stringed and fretted instrument. It usually has a very narrow kerf and the teet are not laid out. It can be either push or pull cut. On the subject of push or pull cut I personally find it easier to stay on the line when using a pull saw - but I dont have 40 years experience using a saw🤓
I was taught to use the coping saw on the pull stroke. I had to cut some letters and tried Paul's push stroke. I like it better, you have much more control. Thank you.
Definitely would like to see you elaborate on types and techniques for rasps. Also, how to match the right rasp to different particular tasks. Thanks for everything.
I was taught and learned how to setup and control the coping, fret and jewellers saws in a PULL configuration. With such thin backed blades it's seemed logical and in those latter necessary to do so. I've found I have a lot more control of the saw when used as PULL. If you worry about grain tear out and obscured lines work to knife edges. Likewise, keyhole plaster saws and hacksaw blade handles, that have no frame, for the same keyhole use are PULL cutting. The same 'pull' configuration applies to powered machines such as bandsaws, scroll / fret saws, jigsaws... and the butcher devices like chain saws and sawzall machines. Metal filing machines are also setup in a PULL configuration. However, my principal trade skill base is metal working, and the hacksaw has ALWAYS been used in a PUSH application. This is especially so when using a hacksaw to hand part off pieces on a lathe! Thinking about metal and wood lathes and use of saws to part off... only a proper fool would use a saw blade in a PULL format! The only PULL setup in a hacksaw being used with omnidirectional rod bur blades, due to inherently thin backing.. but these cut in both push and pull anyway and more a matter of biasing applied force on the PULL stroke - contrary to some opinion posted here, these are very useful blades used to cut metals, glass, ceramics and stone.. NOT wood. I can't say I've seen a hacksaw blade develop a back bow, unlike coping, fret saw blades that have been used in a PUSH manner.... and your only wasting time using a hacksaw to cut metal in a PULL manner. Yeah.. I've used hacksaws to crosscut small profile timber and plastic mouldings (PUSH). The finer available tooth pitch works well, but one has to manage the wave set in metal blades. The wave in blades can be hammered or ground out if it's a 'bother'. They are a useful tool in the wood shop because the blade can be setup a vertical and horizontal to the frame due to the square profile blade holders that fit into the frame. And, like wood working, buy quality tools fit for purpose - some cheap hacksaw frames are pathetically flimsy and good for nothing. Some blades are soft as poo... not even good for the hardest of timbers. Fun fact: Hacksaw blades, like bandsaw blades, are available in variable tooth pitch along the blade length. The hacksaw blades are not that easy to find now and were more specific use for lathe parting off application.
Thanks for all that you do to educate beginner Woodworkers. I know you've inspired me to try to get into woodworking even though I've lost use of one of my arms. Again thank you and keep up the good work.
Glad to hear it's not stopping you. It's a great hobby. I'm a beginner too and at the moment my great challenge is I have no shop. Most stuff I do in the kitchen floor, and can paint out on the (small) balcony.
I have just stumbled across your channel and for me at least it's nice to see someone not using disposable tools my father was a master carpenter and cabinet maker and I still remember him sharpening his saws by hand, and some of his tools including the saws were passed down from his grandfather as he came from a long line of carpenters I'm ashamed now to say it never took with me ironically untill after my father's passing
Great video! It seems in the US there are tons of older saw frames that just don't tension properly, and the hardware store blades are no longer that great either. It pays to spend just a bit more to get a decent saw frame and blades - makes all the difference in the world. That way we can have a working tool instead of a tool shaped object.
Aloha Paul, Get to see your Beehive. You mentioned ,'when you were making a cut (with a coping saw on a beehive part)', so let's see your hive(s). All my hives and bee furniture were of my building for 220 hives.
You're right, Paul: It depends how you were introduced to it. I had a jeweller's saw in my hand (pull stroke) before a coping saw. Here's a Q&A question please: How do you deal with cutting dovetails in soft pine? My unfortunate experience was that the chisel cut an 1/8" into the wood and then started to pull the centre of the wood out. My chisel is ground to 25deg and it's sharp (shaves hair off my arm). I got round it by paring instead of 'chopping' with a mallet, but how do you deal with dovetails in soft woods in general? Thanks in advance.
Had I had something like this early on, I would have saved myself from snapping several blades. I've since managed materials as thick as 1 inch thick maple; however, I went down to 10 TPI blades and regularly applied paraffin to the blade (the blades do get hot enough that you can feel the blade back slip into a block of paraffin). It's really quick and easy: I apply it while the blade is still in the work - immediately the saw cuts more swiftly!
I was introduced to coping saw as a teenager to cut crown molding for ceiling trim....cut 45 then undercut slightly and follow the face of the cut on the molding. Used both pull and push but not real preference.
Using a back cut technique also makes it easier to sand or file the cut if you need to make a correction in the contour or even the length of the cut. I used a coping saw all of my career for doing baseboards and crowns by first making a miter cut then following the profile of the cope
Ty once again Paul. I seem to like the coping saw the best out of all my saws. Turns out for hand sawing it is the one saw I have a lot of practice with since I cope trim every time even krown. The cheapest saw and the fastest and most precise. Winning combo even the blades are cheap.
I find the push stroke most useful when cutting with the blade in a horizontal position, and pull stroke is best when cutting with the blade in a vertical position.
I have spent so so long using a jewelers fret saw. The blades are so thin you just have to think about getting it jammed and it will snap! For a year or so, I never had to replace a worn out blade cause they were snapped way before that hehe. Eventually I learnt the motion and I could cut for hours, it was one of my great joys hearing those little blades cutting. It's scary how they can cut through just about anything and fast.
Fret saws use a “standard” scroll saw blade, right Paul? Scroll saw blades don’t typically have pins on the ends, like coping saw blades have. I’ve noticed that fret saws blades can be tricky to secure and tension in the frame, but they are certainly capable of making cuts with super-fine kerfs, and with dramatically sharp turning radius.
As a trim carpenter. this has been a topic of debate. I agree Push or pull, its all preference. now some may say, that depending on the orientation of the material being cut. that pulling or pushing the blade through brings sawdust with it and can sometimes cover a line. making it hard to see. this may be the only reason push/pull debate has any real advantages. just my thoughts. to give you another perspective in order to make this painstaking decision on weather to push or pull.
I love your information I'm wanting to do finger joints and you'll halping me to see how to do it! Thank you so much for your information with your videos!!
Absolutely brilliant Guru Sellers. I was given a solid piece of teak wood and was wondering how to clone cut the outline of an existing rosewood handle slingshot from China. Your video on the use of the coping saw is the answer... Many thanks and I'm definitely glad I'm subscribed to your channel.
The biggest adventage of the pull stroke the cut is cleaner because the blade won´t twist as in pushing, the blades make waves and the cut won´t be as fine as the pull where the blade is straighter when you find a hard spot.
I an one that was trained to only put the blade in so it only cut on the pull stroke. I will definitely try to use it the other way round and see how I get on. However, I have never liked using the coping saw so using it on the push stroke may be life-changing for me
Most people were taught, in my view and the craftsmen i worked with, wrongly, to work the coping saw predominantly on the undercut pull stroke. It stands to reason that it should be taught to use both ways and then you can adapt to the task as needed.
I use it mainly for coping the joints on skirting I use it mainly on the pull as I find I break less blades I only tend to use push on stained timber as it’s slightly cleaner
I find that I bind less on the pull than the push which is why I always use a pull stroke, also if there is any flex in your saw a push stroke will slacken the blade and can cause breakages whereas a pull stroke always keeps the blade taught. I do see the necessity of using a push stroke if you are trying to keep your lines visible but a quick puff of air is usually enough to clear any buildup.
That kind of a ”platform” is handy when cutting flexible plastics or pearl or something like that with a pull stroke. The piece is pulled down with the saw and there is no need for clamping nor there is vibration.
I've got the same Eclipse coping saw as you, the first blue one. I love it, it is awesome. And also it is nearly in a new state even though it is older the I am. 😁
I paid £1.50 for my Eclipse coping saw in the early 70's after having limited success with the cheaper one I bought at just 65p. I still have my Eclipse saw, and it is just as good as when new- I have no idea what happened to the cheap one as I never used it ever again.
The best way to use a coping saw is vertically with the teeth pointing down. When you use it that way you will find out it was designed to be used that way.
If you Japanese saws they are on the pull stroke, I have swapped my coping saw for Knew precision saw and I find it to be more accurate than a coping saw and it comes with a blade that cuts on both strokes.
I had employees try to argue the point of which way the teeth should go, so one day I took the handle and pin assembly off a spare coping saw and put it on the opposite end so there was a handle on both ends. That way they could pick it up and use it as they wished as the handles were light and dark and all they had to do was remember.
Poor blade quality can also lead to blade break. Some of the cheaper ones I have used have snapped but when using quality blades I rarely ever have one snap. Been a long time since I used one though.
I have an Hanson frame and use Hanson and Olson blades. Had a Stanley for years with stanley blades and it just was rubbish. The Hanson was easy to find and not too expensive and the blades are not terribly hard to find nor were the Olson but they were a much better quality for the money. I used them for coping in crown molding with great success.
Yeah, I always cut on the pull with my jewelers saw. I like the extra control when dealing with soft materials with fine details. It works so much better on lead, pewter, and plastic miniatures than the traditional "hobby" saw.
I am thinking there should be a considered correlation between blade tension and power of the stroke when setting up a coping saw. I notice blade deflection in your demonstrations which may affect details of a tight corner.
Don't really understand what your saying here.I have no concern over blade tension beyond cinching the tightening handle as far as it goes and getting to the work. Once tight it's good to go and the blade is taught between the points and never slackens so the cut is always good on a basic eclipse coping saw.
The teeth should point in so you are pulling the cut, the blade is very thin and by pulling you are putting the blade in tension, keeping it straight, same as Japanese saws. Just the way I was shown, but if it works it works 👍🏻
Does anyone know if the slit on the pins are suppose to be align and or how to align??? I have an irwin and the pin next to the handle is slightly pointed out instead of straight towards the other pin. I feel as if it slightly bending my blade but not sure if that's suppose to be normal
Router planes. I've read your discussion on leveling the bottom of the plane to the blade taking just a few light passes on the stone, but then I am unable to visualize/understand how you finish it off. I never feel the bottom of my router blade is perfectly level to the sole of the plane. I need to see it done.
Hello Paul, I've got a question for you of a different type. When making a wedged mortise and tenon do you want the "wings", for lack of a better term, to press against the long grain or short? Or doesn't matter? Thanks in advance for your advice. And thank you so much for passing on your knowledge :)
Does anyone have an idea what kind of long-sleeved shirt Paul's wearing? (If that's what it's called.. the grey one) Some kind of special woodworking apparel? Looks firm and comfy.. I'd really like to buy one :P
