How Pros Cut Molding Inside Corners 

That's a great technique too! We plan to make another video showing this technique in a little bit more detail and it will include the flap grinder approach as well. Thanks for taking time to write and for watching our video! Best, DFJ

Hey John. Thanks for taking the time to write. There is nothing more validating to us than comments from our viewers. Sounds like your dad taught you a lot more than how to trim a house. He taught you how to be a good human. Take care. DirtfarmerMaggie

Kris, great insights. Thanks for taking time to share your expertise! Best, DFJ

Thanks, Paul. We are doing another edition of this video, showing house to lay out the corners and splices in a typical room. We'll make sure to include that information clearly. Thanks for the nudge! Best, DFJ

Right on! I like your ingenuity. Thanks for writing. Best, DFJ

Glad I could help Josh Sheik. Teaching helpful techniques to folks is the focus of our channel. Best to you, DFJ

You are so right, Jason M79. I do the same. Best, DFJ

Thanks for writing Brad. Best of luck with your remodeling project. DFJ

Have fun, Frank Dima. Glad to be a part of the process for you. Let me know how it goes for you. Best, DFJ

Glad you like it, Denise!

MP, sounds like a great technique. I know it takes only a short time to see the adjustment in your mind and transfer it to the saw with accuracy. Thanks for sharing your expertise! Best Regards, DFJ

Glad it helped! Best, DFJ

Thank you very much!

Wow, thanks for writing and watching Tee Withey. A compliment like that from a craftsman like you carries a lot of weight. Thanks for taking time to comment. Best to you. DFJ

Same here, jigsaw with a special coping foot, and files. I have never even seen a coping saw used, haha, wow, that takes skill.

I use a jig saw for most woods, but on some soft woods like pine, I prefer the coping saw, especially on high profile curves parts

Thanks for watching and co,,enting Lebron Jameslol. Glad we could be of help! Best to you, DFJ

@@DirtFarmerJay this is the only video Ive seen on RU-vid that shows you cut both pieces at 45s. Unreal how everyone leaves out the most important detail. Thanks for the free tips.

Thanks for the tip! Thanks for stopping by. Best Regards, DFJ

Me too, there are tradeoffs - MDF is very smooth and takes paint well on the pre-primed surface. But wood, is well, wood, and there's something very desirable about that. Are you going to be painting or staining your trim for your project? Best, DFJ

@@DirtFarmerJay I wanted wood that doesn't need painting or staining

@@DirtFarmerJay Thank you for responding sir.

Jigsaw

Thanks for watching and writing. It's been our experience that hand cut copes usually fit PERFECTLY. Sometimes the best solution takes longer but it's worth it. Best to you. Dirt Farmer Maggie

You should have asked him if he wanted properly fitting corners or corners that any apprentice carpenter could slap together.

@@buggsy5 exactly!!! Thank you for getting it

Arturo, measure the length so that the bottom corner (the one that will end up closest to the floor, not up against the ceiling) has the long point of it's miter cut all the way in the corner. Does this help? Let me know if you need more clarity. Best, DFJ

Cut your scribed end first ,and the measure from a specific point to the other end.

Try using a measuring tape dammit!.

Jim, the profile you see in our video is pretty representative of the types of moldings you find at most home centers and are installed in medium to upper-medium priced homes. Indeed, there are more complex moldings, or there are built-up profiles that give the appearance of large moldings. Even with large moldings, this approach works, but to your point, you would likely use a wider range of tooling, including rasps, files, paddle sanders, flap grinders and the coping saw. We are considering making another video showing various coping and non-coping methods for installing moldings, and if we do, we'll show a more complex profile. Thanks for taking time to write! Best Regards, DFJ

@@DirtFarmerJay I look forward to your next video

Carl, indeed, that is another method that is gaining popularity and one that we will do an episode on in the not-too-distant future. Thanks for writing! Best, DFJ

Thanks Rocky 1954. I have to ask, is that your birth year? If so, mine too! Best to you, Dirt Farmer Maggie.

@@DirtFarmerJay Jay, No, 1950. Rocky was my first Dog , born in 1954. I think of him always. Sadly, Monday 7/12, on the advise of the Vet, we had to put down my beloved Izzie. A Female German SHepard who came into my life and filled a get void. My heart still breaking. She was closer to me than Rocky, and I was very close to Rocky. Best Always, Jay.

Joe Wellin Dowd, love it! I used to struggle with coping, but then got the hang of it. Do give up yet! Best, DFJ

Thanks!

Yeah, me too. I'm a better grinder than I am cutter.

Have you ever used a coping foot attachment on a jigsaw?

Ok now this is interesting. Which would you say is easier to handle? The coping saw looks nice and light.

I was taught to use a coping saw so thats all I use... especially if you are working with MDF.. doesn't take much to cut through that stuff.

I heard people use grinders and was wondering if you could just use a Dremel?

@@AdamSmith-dp3ei no I have not

It's a pro technique. If you're installing this every day or week, sure. Most joints will be tight enough to where either paint or a little caulk smoothed out will go unnoticed. It's not a big deal to adjust your angle if you have corners that are way out of the 90 perspective. If you do this for a living and are doing it on high profile jobs in other houses, I would see this being a frequent technique

30 years experience as a carpenter here. The sand paper is an excellent trick. I use it all the time. I'm currently running stain grade base throughout a house right now so no caulk to hide slight imperfections. The sandpaper trick prevents slight imperfections completely.

yEAH HES GOOD!

Same here!! So happy to find this video

Robert, thanks for commenting. Indeed, there are many skilled tradespeople that use the technique you describe and I will likely demo it in a future episode. Thanks for taking time to write! Best, DFJ

As a carpenter I was taught to pull the saw up, not like he is using it by pushing down. Of course you have to put the blade in the other way. Here's an excellent video on how to cope with a jigsaw. This yoiung man was taught the trade properly: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-piejW3gebtk.html

WOW! you made our day!! We love it when our viewers really appreciate what we do! Thanks for the sub! (I love DFJ too!). Best to you and your hubby, Dirt Farmer Maggie.

Kevin Kasper, thanks for watching and your kind comments. I'm glad you found this to be helpful to you. We are planning on doing a follow on episode that goes into a bit more detail of the overall approach of running base and trim, including coped corners, outside corners, and splices. Make sure you are subscribed so you catch it. Best Regards, DFJ

Yea, I don't usually like to cut corners but once I 🪚 this method, I feel like I can cope with any problems on the job site.

Christine, great to hear this worked so well for you as well as the sandpaper trick. Thanks for writing! Best, DFJ

The sandpaper trick is the ultimate

Yes there is a need for this. Mitering the joint wont work properly since the miter will likely open up when you nail it off. A cope won't open up. If done properly itll actually get tighter.

Thank you kindly!

John, thanks for watching and taking to write. Another phrase I really dislike hearing when a RU-vid video begins is, "Hey Guys...." or, the artificially perky, "Hi Guys". What you've mentioned and these two are way overused. We try to engage our audience with an authentic conversation. I'm sure we miss that sometimes, but thanks for the reinforcement! Best Regards, DFJ

@@DirtFarmerJay Also don't like the side camera angle so many youtubers are using. As if they're talking to someone else in the room. It's like "Hey! I'm over here!" lol Great video DirtFarmer Jay!

I missed it also, great idea!

odyoddeller, thanks for weighing in. Fair point. A fast read through all the comments will reveal that there are several in the trades that use this method, as well as what you use, the flapper sander method. In fact, we plan to do an episode using that method, as well as a fuller overview on the trim process for room - such as where to begin, where joints should be, how splices should be laid out for maximum invisibility and the such. When I cope molding, I use a power miter saw. BTW, we've had some viewers also state they use a combo of a back cut on the miter saw for the straight portion of the molding profile, then finishing up with the flapper, or a Dremel® bit, or the coping saw, as I do. Thanks for being in the trades, watching our video, and weighing in. The best to you and yours! - DFJ

Did you ever get that molding coped, Mr. Ortiz?

Why the hell is it time consuming that is the right way to do it and no need for any caulk in this joint I've been doing trim for 32 years and never ever done an inside 45, Obviously you dont know why you cope inside corners so please go back to fuckin sleep and come back with a response what's worth fuckin looking at

So you have a hardwood skirting with a Roman ogre that’s going to be stained and polished. How are you going to calke that? I’ve got a stick of wax in my box it’s still there three years on. It does get used but mostly for filling pin holes.

@@MrTicker69 32 years hey? I've worked with tons of guys who don't cope and their finished product looks great. Nothing wrong with coping, it takes a long time to get really efficient at it. I'm using a grinder now for 9 inch baseboard. Anything smaller than 5 inch I won't bother. And I'll only cope obvious in line of sight areas. I would imagine you'd book 3 days to do baseboard in a 2500sq ft house by coping 35-40 inside corners.. takes forever. Inside miter at 42-44 degrees, done. Outside miters 46-48 degrees. Next!

Good insight, Valentin! Best, DFJ

Nope. It's gotta be coped unless you're working on tract housing. Then nothing matters anyway

Man and Machine, thanks for watching our video and taking to to write and ask a question. The method you mention is indeed used by many trim carpenters. A common method is to use an angle divider to get the set up on the saw - which is 1/2 of the whole angle in the corner. Another way to cut the joint on the miter saw is to carry a set of paired "pitch blocks" with the common angles divided in half, and then the carpenter can put the set in the corner, determine if there is a tight joint, then set up the saw for the cut for that one corner, and so forth. If the corner is off a bit, it's usually filled in with caulk - which is cosmetic, not structural. There's a little ditty I heard that fits this: "A little caulk, and a little paint, makes me the carpenter I ain't." While I just came off a bit sarcastic, let me assure you I'm aware of realities in the field, and depending on the price point of the home, and whether its a production or custom home - some may take the miter saw and changing angles, or "it's close enough" approach. But if the joint isn't right, it will open up over time as caulk and paint gives way. So, I've had my say about the miter saw only approach. Let me contrast the miter saw and coping method. There are three big advantages right away. First, on any inside corner that is even close to 90°, I can cut one flat cut and one 45° degree cut - every time - without resetting the saw to an irregular angle. All current electric miter saws have detents at 0 and 45 degrees, so these cuts are really fast. Second, the coped joint is self adjusting and supported with material - not caulk. Because the mitered side of the cut is undercut slightly and follows the profile of the adjacent piece of flat-cut material that runs all the way into the corner, it fits tightly against the adjoining piece. This is true even if the joint is a few degrees out of square either way. Third, the craftsperson has to carry less in their toolbelt. No additional divider, no set of pitch blocks. And, the coped joint is just as easy to measure lengths as the mitered approach. Molding is cut full length to reach all the way into the corner. On the flat cut piece, as well as the long point of the mitered piece. If you've read this entire epistle, I thank you. We get enough questions about this subject that I believe it's time to produce a "head to head" comparison video and extended article on our website (www.dirtfarmerjay.com) on the two methods and the plusses and minuses of each. I liked the way you asked the question - succinct and direct - so I'd like to quote you at the beginning of the piece. Is that agreeable to you? And, if you still have questions, or wish to push back, feel free to write back. Best Regards, DFJ

Darrell, thanks for taking time to write. I have to disagree with you respectfully. I've seen various approaches to all sorts of tasks on the job site, including this. There are skilled tradespeople that use the methods you describe and if they know their stuff (most do!), they do a beautiful job. There are others, including me, that use this method and do an equally quality job. To say that "no pro" uses this method is an over simplification. For what it's worth, I do intend to acquire the Collins coping foot in the not too distant future and give it a try. Thanks for watching and taking time to engage - and more importantly, for being a part of the trades. We need more hands on people! Best Regards, DFJ

Indeed, one of the things we enjoy in creating these videos is the spirited commentary and diversity of opinion. Thanks for stopping by! Best, DFJ

Agreed

Tony, thanks for weighing in. Best, DFJ

Crusty, thanks for your thoughts. There has been some products that take the tact you've outlined. The are pre-made rounded blocks for outside corner that fit drywall bullnose, and the cut adjoining them are simply square cuts. The inside corners are simply decorative blocks so butt cuts can run into them. However, many people think these aren't as attractive as a good no-gap corner. Best to you and yours - DFJ

@@DirtFarmerJay Thank you for that info. And thank you for replying so promptly. God bless you and good fortune for the future.

George, thanks for informing me of your thoughts, even if you disagree with me. I've seen the Collins coping foot in use, as well as angle grinders, and coping saws. In the field, I can cut a cope very quickly, and I know of others that use this practice and do just fine. I'm always looking for new ways to do things and am aware of the methods you mention. Heck, I may do an episode on them to show our viewer family other ways to approach coping and the great results this approach gives. Thanks for taking time to write. Best, DFJ

@@DirtFarmerJay I do agree with you Jay; the use of a coping saw is a very important skill set. How to lay out trim, bisect angles, and cope accordingly are fundamentals of the trade. And the skillfull use of a coping saw on a handful of 3" crown joints is often as fast as anything else. But when faced with, for example, a coffered ceiling with 64+ copes on 7" crown, using a coping saw will lose you money. It just isn't efficient, unless you are some sort of coping saw Rain Man

Thanks tang fish. I appreciate your comment. Keep watching and commenting! Best, DFJ.

I think you'll like the results. Best, DFJ

Paul, indeed, there are several tradespeople that are using a grinder and a sanding flap wheel to do this and it works quite well. In fact, it's likely we'll show that method in a future episode. Thanks for watching and writing! Best, DFJ

Damon, there are people that do exactly that. I prefer to cut a flat on one end and put it all the way into the corner, and cope the other so it will self adjust to the angle without any gap. Thanks for writing! Best, DFJ