The name of the model is BOSCH PSB 18 LI-2 (2010) I have this drill for about 8 months, I both from Market Place with just 5 pounds.I used it almost every day but from past 2 weeks doesn't want to work and I decide to repair and clean it.
I have the later PSB 1800 LI-2 model but I think the previous owner left it out in the rain. Just like some other comments left here , when i squeeze the trigger the light flashes on but that's all. Tried it a few times and when I opened it part of the board was black and smoked when the trigger was pulled. I bought another one for parts but it has'nt arrived yet . Thanks for the video. It was most helpful and hopefully I will be able to fix my drill.
Thanks for the video -- it got me started on my repair. In case any anyone else misses it, there is a screw hidden at the very bottom of the drill in the track that holds on the battery...
Take pics as you take apart, nice video I had to figure it out the old way. At it again now as the motor went and had to fit new one. It’s my go to drill so gets a fair bit of work. Trouble is drilling above or in dusty material the dirt goes in the drill.
Tip: Don't spray anything inside the motor! At first it looks okay but after a while dirt and carbon stick to the commutator and cause shorts in the windings. Better take it apart and clean the inside or buy a new one if the overall state is too bad.
Well done I know this line is the consumer home grade I live in the United States when bosch use to OWN skill brand that would be there DIY basic line of tools under the umbrella so probably similar specs on there are numbers we use we don't use newton meters we use torque but generally similar people it was marketed towards to these particular ones there's no way to charge the batteries here in the states without a step up transformer when it comes to the regular blue Bosch professional line as you guys market it there I can purchase any beer tool I want it will fit my batteries and work perfectly fine
Aaaand it still doesn't work. Seems that when it colds off, stops working again. When I use the hot air gun over the board, or put the drill itself over the stove, works well. But once it's cold again, stops working. Somebody knows what's the problem? 😭
I have used this model intensively for many years, it is still working fine, but when I release the trigger the leds stay on and drain the battery. I opened up the drill and gave the electronics some cleaning spray and dried it, but the problem persists. Changing the battery does't help.
put a multi meter on motor and switch got continuity but put it on power lugs that fit into drill battery base ...nothing, is this a mother board fault as dropped drill thus not working
Brill. I can use this as a guide to clean mine up. Thanks for doing this video. It's brilliant. Are there brushes that can be replaced on the motor, if so how?
Great job, and video "Alex B". I bought one in 2012, with two batteries and charger, but OEM version (no box and case). Batteries are dead about 7 years ago, but I rebuilt and sold that another drill. I use this drill with newer version higher capacity batteries (4 AH & 5AH batteries). My father is destroyed its chuck, I replaced it a metal drill chuck from AliExpress, and works fine. I checked it on Bosch services online page, but it has got a high price for me (~41.1USD). As they say in Hungary, the material is still in it.
hi alex, i enjoyed your video. i have the same problem in that i have a fully charged battery and when i pull the trigger the lights flash exactly like yours did and i think you said it went into safety mode ?how do you get it out of safety mode. i have taken it apart the same as you did but it fails at the point it started going for you. any suggestions would be appreciated. thanks again.
Great stuff! I have a PSB 12 VSP-2 which needs restoration. Also a new trigger switch. Could you help with some instructions on dismantling the chuck and gearbox. Thanks. Sham.
i am not good in electric things.... my problem with my cordless drill is when i turned it on it is very hot and a lot of smoke.... i dont know what to do.... any suggestion ?
Thank you for comment,You have to open the drill and check inside where is smoke,usually is smoke from carbon brushes and the overheating is from motor and gearbox .
@@AlexBRestoration cool, have been looking at some better way than digging in the grease tube. (using very little of the stuff, so a full greasegun is something I want to have )
I have the same drill, and my problem was: squeezing the switch just had the power LEDs flash a few times but the chuck wouldn't rotate. I came here for the walkthrough of opening it up (good clear video - nice work on that filming) and your "Safety Mode" inspired me to try out the same trick: hairdryer on the board. All works now! Thanks for the video; I now have a fully-functioning drill (and a mental note not to keep it up in the shed anymore!)
Excellent vid..I have the same but later model c2017..hardly used but the chuck head has run out..not a huge amount but unnacceptable, especially noticeable when using spade end drill bits. I got a 2yr warranty from May 2017 by registering online. .. dont fancy servicing mine by any chance ? lol
@@AlexBRestoration ..as it happens I do live in the UK..Northants to be a little more precise lol. Of course my question was in part jest..ive just started the replacement of 8 internal doors and the furniture..hence drill for latches etc..ive since also watched horror vids of "run out" drill comparisons with kit far more expensive than mine. I also watched an excellent vid by a young lad explaining exactly where and why this occurs. Seems even fancy drills suffer from the same problem even when new. My thinking at the mo is that I cant see me risking a 24mm hole for the latch case on a 35mm door so im proposing to use a 20 or 22mm and chisel the rest out..anyway I digress. Where did you get your expertise ?..and how much ? ha ha
hola buenas noches amigo. Una duda eso que pones en el minuto 12:47 que tomas con la pinza, que son como posteitos para que son? tengo un destornillador mas pequeño que ese marca klatter, lo desarme y en un descuido se me cayeron dos postesitos exacatamente igual, y no lo eh podido armar, queria que me apoyes para saber que son, y que funcion tienen, de igual forma los puse como en tu video pero suena como que raspa algo. Espero puedas apoyarme
Fantastic video, Alex! Dropped drill and drive did not work thereafter. Stripped down and rebuilt would not have been possible without this excellent video. Only problem was after assembly settings were out by 180 degrees. Section that locks into chuck head had to be turned so had to disassemble. Would have thought it would have had different cut outs to prevent this!
i have a problem with a same drill. it works only on max rpm,i can not to regulate rpm-s with a switch. and, all leds somethimes blinking,sometimes not. i have not original battery,i tried it with car battery,and with a power supply on 16,17 18 v....and simptomes allways the same. do you have idea what can it be ?
@@AlexBRestoration not the same every time..mostly,it blinks very fast and dont stop,until i release the switch..... sometimes blinks just once,fast.....i did not chack it with original,i dont have. can you tell me,on original battery,are two terminals positive and two negative ? this is the way i connect it to power supply ? maybe i connected wrong ?
It's one by one the others one is for battery temperature,I think your drill is going in safety mode when you press the switch.and definitely you need a original battery 18v lithium ion.
DC MOTOR 18v 2609003662 this is the cod for motor but in my opinion is to expensive is like half price of brand new drill with batteries and charger,you can find cheap spar parts on ebay.
Honestly, I don't know I brought the cordless drill like that,maybe from moisture, poor quality,it's often happened to me when I unscrew the screws from the batteries.
I have an 18 volt dc motor. It works intermittently. I gave electricity directly from the brushes again, the engine is running. one stands. what is the problem
@@AlexBRestorationhi 4.2 amps of 19 volts from the laptop adapter. My question is that if the engine is burned, it never turns, right? my engine keeps turning one round or half round.
Hi.thank you for comment,you need to check the clutch and to do that you need to take down the gearbox and chuck.if there is something broke you have to replace and it is not worth it,but you have to check first🍺🍺
