ScannerDanner Tools: www.scannerdanner.com/tools.html www.amazon.com/shop/scannerdanner Also don't forget to check the description of this video for links to other mentioned videos
ScannerDanner Btw I have come to notice that some test light flicker tests when checking for spark isn’t always as accurate with led style test lights. Best to use the older style test lights for those tests.
@@Mechaniclyfe yes, never use an LED type light for this type of testing, first you risk cooking the light and second, very low voltages still make these lights look the same as higher voltage. I almost never use an LED light for troubleshooting. The test light I used in this video is an incandescent style bulb and it is listed on my Amazon affiliate link above in the pinned comment. It is around $20 for that light
FINALLY! Old school OBD1 diagnosis! Now we're talking. Now, we're in my area of diagnosis. Test lights and flow charts.However, I did enjoy seeing the lab scope used to verify your diagnosis. Thanks , Paul. Great video on control of coil circuit.
FINALLY! A video on a GM OBDI car. And on an engine that I actually have! On that engine, every ignition related part is difficult to gain access to. Two digit fault codes and 50 data PIDs. Aahhh, the good old days. A great video. Thank you for sharing.
For me it's a higher level diagnostic case study involving various potentially defective parts living in different locations. Thank you so much for sharing the knowledge! 👍
The dtc 41 will set if the PCM sees more than 4.6 volts while cranking the engine. The IC signal goes between 0.5 to 4.5 volts. Great video and glad to see you working with your brother 👍. You two are awesome teachers and techs.
Thank you so much for this video. This was my exact problem on my c4. I used noid lights, a test light and a multi-meter and was able to follow along. Also, my car (1996 OBD-II) did not throw any codes. The car died while driving and would not restart, all fixed. Thanks!
Paul and James, I truly enjoy your videos. Just sent in my monthly subscription and will continue to be a part of your class for as long as you put out videos. Watch your regular and new and improved classes all the time. Your son Caleb is also a big part of your success as he does a great job of editing and the asking of questions all us novices would ask. I know aircraft inside and out and now want to know automotive electronics inside and out. Thank you for that opportunity and answering any questions I might have. Thank everyone involved its a true family effort. also, thank Rosedale Tech for allowing you to do it. Great job ❤️️ Paul I wanted to mention your brother James shop is quite large. Looks like a friendly place to work. Best of luck to all
Thank you Arthur! I agree, Caleb adds an element that I cannot recreate without him and he has gotten really, really good with editing. Although I take the credit for this one. Caleb has about 2 weeks left before he graduates, then I get to have him full time! I am so looking forward to this and you guys will definitely benefit from him being around more. It has been rough the past few months as he has the lead role in the schools musical/play and he's at practice 5 days a week, then leads church worship on Sundays. No time for SD right now, but that is changing soon!! Thank you for helping me make this possible. RU-vid ad revenue alone simple doesn't pay the bills.
Yep Danner was right smart people always had a spare module in the glove box. High failure rate with ignition module along with rotor burn thru, coil failure & distributor cap carbon tracking. Great video and look forward to seeing you guys working together.
Awesome video. Helped me find out my problem with my 96. The issue I’m having now is finding a good ICM. I bought a delco, Delphi, and a Napa but all were junk.
As a Corvette fan I appreciate that your keeping them running! Your editing is fantastic Paul. It's always a pleasure to watch your videos. It's very apparent that you take pride in your work. And congratulations on having a shop bay. Nothing to do with this video but I wanted to thank you for all the videos over the years. I recently fixed a vehicle that went to other shops. They gave up. Your classes and videos were instrumental to me in how I found the issue. (2006 Dodge Ram, intermittent crank, no start).
Danner, I'm not quite sure whats changed be it softwor techniques. Either way your video editing and flow is insanely better than it was years back. It still worked back then and got the point across. Its just amazing now. Great video Danner(s)
I'm so glad you made this comment. I really have learned how to enhance the videos with still pictures or previous scenes and also the addition of arrows for what I am talking about. It really take a long time to do this! This video was about 6 or 7 hours of editing and as I was completing this, I was thinking to myself, is it worth the time? Sounds like it was!! Thank you so much
Engine stopped in parking lot with no warning. Just did these checks on my '85 Corvette. No flash on the test light. New cap rotor, they were shot even though I replaced them 1 year ago. Coil had power, replaced it and ICM. Is running great now!
This was the problem with my 92 vette..shop said Opti spark ..then did some testing and called back and said ICM...wow from 1400 to 400.00...great video
"Old Rattletraps"? My '87 C4 L98 is hurt by that comment. Truly cut to the quick. LOL. Great video, thank you. I have similar problems but it takes about 90 minutes before I get the performance drop and attempt to stall.
Thanks for this video! My 1992 C4 just threw this 41 code this weekend. You've just saved me a whole lot of head scratching. Now I know where to focus my attention. It's likely I have the exact same problem, which requires the exact same solution. Now I know how to check it out properly. Hopefully that will have my Corvette running again very soon.
Love seeing you and your brother together! SO happy for you guys. We'll never forget the Ranger and the 'Vette - the 2 first diag vids from Danner's new shop! 👍👍 I had never even seen an Optispark system until just recently, when a family friend bought a mid-90's Camaro. Car ended up being more than he bargained for, so he got rid of it - I never got to play around with it (probably a good thing from the looks of it). No idea why GM went that route - I think the HEI was 20x more reliable, at least after each system got 15 or more years on them (IMO). Even the flat distributors on the first OBD-II trucks were a cross-firing, moisture-trapping nightmare. GM never likes to stick with what works ... great for us, but annoying when you own one! Appreciate all your hard work on these vids, Paul! Can't imagine the hours this took to piece together. GREAT job! THANK YOU!! 🍻
Great video, wish I knew more about how to use these tech devices but these types of videos always help, thanks it guided me in the right direction to troubleshoot some issues on my vette. Thanks
And the mounting of the icm, right on the hot head. We put nuts on the bolts behind them, to make make them stand off the head and allow air flow behind the icm.
@@tracycolorado haha nah, we're past those days, plus I don't work for him, what we do is mutually beneficial for each other. It is a win, win. If I worked FOR him, you would be right, there would be issues
Perfect... as always Paul..Thank you so much,once again..Don't bother with shots and white balance.Your videos are fine and we will always follow you ...
One Thing i do admit Your lighting on the actual lighting on the components is very good..BETTER then eny videos i have seen.wich is excellent.THANK YOU AGAIN FOR YOUR..HUMBLELIZUM...SHOP..JOKE.
Hey Scanner you're technical so you'll get this. White balance is all about colour tint in any given light. What you were talking about, with respect, is contrast. Loving your work man thanks.
That’s a bad place to put a module. The failure rate is high when they sit on the hot engine. You’d think they would be smarter then that. Ford knew it and moved it. Smart thing to do is move the module or make an insulater to mount it to. No doubt it’s gonna happen again.
and pretty much every gm products of that era, same module, same heat sink, just different location. often caused by the junk flat-pack dist cap/rotor and wires killing the coil ;)
@@throttlebottle5906 the LT1, 92-96 Vettes have the good 'ol Optispark distributor mounted to the front of the engine. Looks like an octopus. 1992 and 93 models that have a water pump leak will turn the Opti into green goo. Coolant drips right into it, improvements to seal up the Opti were made in '94. It is driven by a pin turning at the end of the camshaft.
@@ozzstars_cars "anti-spark" is more fitting a term :)) right, big ugly flat cap and other gm's had similar but in standard rear distributor location, they'd always burn through internally and you'll get multiple cylinders firing at once, regardless of the button direction and that's without any green crusties from coolant leak! seems a good candidate for electric water pumps, but i don't recall if there ever was such a thing for them..
Great vid and great Diag. had one 95 Vett in for CEO of local NBC station in for a No Start and noticed a leaking W.P. on the cam cap diaged a Module and replaced the DIST unit but DIDN'T REPLACE the COIL later in the week vett back for interment stall, cut-off and no start.... WTF.. Back at the shop Starts ..runs ruff and rich.. Bang Bang on the PCM and pow BTN. bad coil = bad MOD= bad PCM =$$$ Moral of the story, Replace all ignition components on this type vett at the same time! Period... the initial problem was the water pump leaking on/into the cap.. Popped the module and it was replaced, but latter to find out that errant high voltage back feed into the ECU. Try finding an ECU for a 95 Vett cant... have to have the ECU rebuilt at a cost higher than they cost new. REPLACE ALL
ScannerDanner I’m watching one now 👍🏻 I’m going to be doing some filming on it soon for our new channel any pointers are greatly appreciated all the best jay
@@eastprestonclassics3963 if it is an injector short, you will have good spark and good fuel pressure and no injector pulse when you test for it. You can take and unplug one injector and test it with a test light. I have some videos on testing fuel injectors too. If you have one, a noid light comes in very handy for this test
ScannerDanner The car cold starts and runs really smooth for a car of her age after about 6mins it then dies and won’t re start and at this point I have no spark but still has power going to the opti .I replaced the coil but not the ignition module as the paper work said it had been changed but I’m not sure 🤔
Okay, then don't worry about the injectors and do the tests I've shown in this video with the test light to confirm module operation. Make sure it is an incandescent test light, if you're using an LED type light, throw that thing in the garbage, they are useless for troubleshooting
i forgot about those systems seems there was a relocation to get that module out of the heat and vibrations check old tsb's. ford had the same problem with the thick film modules .
good point, also thermal grease breakdown, which was often just plain dielectric silicone grease. I always changed over to white goop and made sure the bole holes in heatsink/dist base was flat, seen plenty over-torqued, which mushroomed the mating surface and held the module off the base.. they couldn't figure out why the modules lasted days to weeks lol..
crazy ole me? I just bounce and ricochet around wildly, sometimes pretending to be dumb(lazy) depends on the time of day and having partaken in tasty adult beverages ;)
The C5's all have issues with the body grounds and corrosion. It would be nice to see you go through one of those as it pretty much applies to all C5's as they all eventually start getting intermittent electrical issues.
I am about as amateur as you can be. I can replace parts and some basic troubleshooting but I love the logic you lay out here. Very solid help.I do not have a cool scanner, Danner. I have one of these boat anchors in a 1994 S10 Blazer, painless wiring harness and MSD coil and distributor. Crank no start. I have signal at the injectors, I have signal at the coil, I have fuel pressure, but no spark at the spark plugs. Can anyone "talk me off the edge of the cliff" cuz I feel I should replace the opti but I want to be sure. ICM I did replace.
@@ScannerDanner if there were wiring mods, it was done by the previous owner. However, everything seems to be coming off of, or connecting to, original wiring harnesses or to the Painless harness. It ran and drove, i let it sit and then it would not start.
@@Muddytrickle okay, is spark good at the coil itself? It should jump more than a half inch gap. I use an incandescent test light for this test. DO NOT use an LED light, it will cook it.
So much good info,thats why you don't fast forward a ScannerDanner vid....BTW were not looking at your face.LOL Just listening to the Knowledge.thanks for the video!
I gotta get used to the new common phrase, "Hey, Danner, can you crank that for me?" After watching you in your classroom with the Danner license plate it's weird to hear you calling someone else Danner!
1. Check for spark at coil wire 2. If no spark check for battery voltage at pins A and D of ICM 3. If no power at A & D then chase pink wire back to fuse 11 for break in wire 4. Check for Ignition control on pin B, use meter or scope and look for .5 - 4.5 Vac or square waves indicating a signal/pulse 5.if no voltage check for continuity from pin B on ICM to black connecter on ECM pin 5, if open or infinite repair wire 6. Check for 5v on A and B of Opti spark harness, and for battery voltage on pin C 7. Fuel pressure should hold 40-50 psi
Another great video and use of a lap scoop as far as the code gm did not have logic diagnostics on distributor type ignition systems with a single coil and the Ignition module is not bi-directional and only reads PMW from the ecm and The ecm would look for a 350rpm and higher with in a short time frame and would increase ilde to prove that the engine is running if this is not meet the ecm will give you that code
GM produced the diagnostics before the vehicle was ever on the lot,they used to have SMU by the thousands ever time a new design of fuel or ign. system was used
Just found your channel. Wish I had you as my mechanic locally. I have a 92 vette with a code 41 that I got from the dashboard, but I think yours has an OBD2 port, right? Mine is an OBD1, and I don't have a clue what scanner to buy. I checked Amazon for a used one. Didn't know what to buy. Do you have any advice for someone in my shoes?
depends on what it does after it stalls. #1 when it stalls does it immediately restart or does it take time? #2 if it doesn't immediately restart, if you open the throttle a little will it start back up? #3 if it doesn't restart and it still doesn't restart after opening the throttle, then you need to find out what you are missing (spark, fuel pressure, injection pulse) for me to help any further.
@@ScannerDanner Thanks Paul, It would restart right away until we replaced the coil and ICM, now it takes time. We will run those other checks. FYI it doesn't throw any codes, and at present won't link to our OBD2 scanner. Cheers
For my DIY guys out there, or for those of you in the field doing some side work and need service information. You can buy access to a single car for $20 for a month, just bill this to your customer or make it part of your diagnostic fee eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1=
Nothing as long as your definition of being a parts changet involves changing the part that needed to be changed and not just throwing a part at it to "try it'
I have an 89 Camaro no spark pick up coil test good on ohms test good I believe 89 has the bypass where the ignition control module inside the distributor controls, spark while cranking and not the computer with that being said the only other issue it could be is that ignition control module I believe as I have power on that ignition coil feed do you have a video doing a no spark with the bypass system like I have?
I still don't understand the purpose of the ignition control module. Seems like it receives the signal from the ECM and just relays that signal to the coil. Why not just have the ECM send the signal directly to the coil? (Yes, I know many vehicles do have the ECM send the signal directly to the coil. Still doesn't explain what the ICM actually does to the signal before sending it to the coil.)
Jon, there is a main power transistor that is controlling and carrying the current flow of the primary ignition coil (up to about 10 amps typically), that is what the ICM is doing. On newer style ignition coils (one for each cylinder), if there are 3 or 4 wires going to it, the main power transistor is located inside of the coil itself, essentially they combined the "module" with the coil. On 2 wire designs, the main power transistor is part of and inside the engine computer, so no more ignition modules on those designs. They've basically put the ignition module inside of the ECM board. Make sense?
Yes! And that small square wave I measured coming from the computer is only a few hundred milliamps, if that. No heat at all on the ECM board to control the coil. That signal is the base circuit turn on voltage for the main power transistor in the ICM
Just one thing missing: Since the purchase of the ....er....shop, now that everything can be done in-house, one was anticipating a mandatory acceleration test on the Corvette - just to confirm the efficacy of the repair of course!
a bad ignition module on that year, no way!!! also ignition coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs.... them stupendous flat pack piece of junk dist caps... I'd parts cannon the whole ignition system if it was mine.... due to history with similar setup on all the gm's of that era :) now I'll watch and see lol
