We are having changes already for the big revamp in the workshop in the new year. We also have a beauty of a catastrophic failed engine arrived, this is why you should be aware when buying a classic car of great value
Scrap the block!!! Heavens forbid sir...do you think I have money to burn....I know an Indian workshops that could build a fire around that block to bring the casting up the temperature...cut out that crack to the full depth with his Woolworth's angle grinder and gas stitch weld and face the block give a coat of paint and it'll be good as new..😁😁😁😁
If it was rare in u.k. yeah but they arent. In USA yeah you'd go to lock n stich($$$$) they drill out and use a dutchman patch. Or weld n machine. For a low power a-b no choice Yeah fix it. But in u.k. a cosworth block is not that hard to get
Very funny comment but the thing is your not far off the truth.They would stitch it up in a similar way. Never done it but have seen it done and if done properly you cant even see there was ever a crack.
Ye I get your point but depending on how mutch a proppa stich would cost rite that's a lot of work I guss they would charge a fair bit no so prob just easyer to get a block ?
Gods, that Mk2 sounds glorious. Takes me back to the Press On Regardless international rallye, and similar cars beating through the silent woods at 4 in the morning, in the dark. Brings on a tear for the past. Cheers from BILL in Michigan, USA.
Looks like you could benefit from investing in a burette and stand for measuring combustion chamber volume. 50ml is a common size and what I have and should cover most cylinder heads and prevent the possibility of accumulated errors with multiple 2ml shots you're using at the moment.
If your changing around your whole shop, draw up a simple process picture. Write down how long about each step takss you. Then you will get clear what is the most optimal layout and where to locate stock items. Hit me up if you need some more advice. (Ex-production engineer in our Engine factory here, currently testing engineer). Basically read up on Lean Manufacturing. The principles can be applied everywhere and can really save you money. And if you need advice you may ring me up
Best garage floor coating are the polyaspartic coatings that are extremely hard wearing but need very clean substrata. You can get vinyl rolls but they do tend to lift and crease and again need a clean substrata if being stuck down always recommended. The best compromise may be solid vinyl interlocking tile such as Duraflex which has the advantage that tiles can be replaced quite easily and they are hard wearing.
WRT floor coating/covering, we had some floors epoxy coated where I used to work. They looked great, but with any water or dust on them they were nearly impossible to walk on without slipping. So, if epoxy or similar coating, put some kind of anti slip in it. Your contractor should be able to steer you to a covering that will take the loads of the shop and not be too slippery to walk on> Also, just like engine building, hire somebody who already knows what to do rather than learning that you didn't know after the fact.
Check with the flooring manufacturer regarding what it'll take, as engine stand wheels could apply significant mass on small areas compared to fork lift wheels.
Lee, I don't know what they have come up with over the years, but I would think that an existing concrete floor well soaked with oil, grease and cleaning agents wouldn't take kindly to either a poured on or glued down flooring material. In any case the existing floor is going to have it's surface scrubbed to within an inch of it's life. That fella was pretty well thrashing that Cossy but it sure sounded good and healthy.
as a long time stores person, and a person who turns a wrench and knows lots of car people, the No 1 problem i see in your shop and so many garages is LACK OF SHELVING. with some decent pallet racking near the door where the parts washer was, and a mini forklift, there is no reason to lose so much floor space. whenever you need to wait for a week for parts, shelve that engine, and rack stack and pack engines waiting for work.
That's awesome , road legal as well. That's like 400 to 440 hp ish with a lot of tq. That type of flooring may create slips, trips, and falls , may be you should do a small area first and see how it goes. Happy holidays, guys.
On our vg 30 heads we have the same issue as the alfa head. Do a light cut down the center of the valve covers (they have tabs so not cutting sealing surface) to get a parallel surface to sit the head on to skim
Once the oil has soaked in for a number of years, even acid washing won't make it stick. Ask me how I know. The only thing which would work is an epoxy screed, but that's big money.
@@gregculverwell and thats epoxys problem lol great for new concrete but not as a fix for old dirty concrete.... they could grind it but i suspect its still contaminated . throwing a sealer in between dosnt work either '[ personally i think a shop floor needs stains lol
@@gregculverwell The simplest method is to take off the top eighth of an inch off with a hammer mill ( I think that’s the correct name )anyhoo ,they are readily available at the tool hire shop , done several epoxy workshop floors successfully using this method.
best off epoxy coating your flooring No vinyl will withstand the loads steel wheels on engine hoists and stands produce (at least none I have ever seen) Additionally any seams in the vinyl will attract moisture and oil STRONGLY advise against anything but epoxy (it is what I have) and if done properly is good for the life of the concrete(10years so far and as good as new) super easy to clean and maintain as well :-)
I remember back in the 90's, a mate of mine took me down to Shoreham car auctions and he was saying to me "bid on that MK2 escort" and I was like "nah m8 I wants this MK2 Granada" which turned out to be an utter pig, Escort went for £150, it being a fire red non droop snooted RS2000, bloke who bought it drove it onto his trailer and he was super super happy as he thought it was just a boy racer'd standard 2 dr MK2... man was I ribbed about that car for months by other traders. Granada turned out to have suspicious numbers and it was all over the place, ended up breaking it for spares as it really was suspect and had much bodgery on the structural hidden from plain view by blackjack trowelled on with a cement mixer, must have been over inch thick in some places around the chassis rails :(
I get your point about the expense of the Millington motors but 350 horsepower is impossible to get out of a N/A cossie but if you can afford the millington that is what you get and the noise is to die for
What 7mm vinyl product have you seen Lee? I'm in that trade but can't think of a product that I'd be 100% confident it be suitable for purpose, pros n cons on most products
Classic floor finishes for a workshop would be epoxy or polyester that certainly won't wear off like paint. An alternative that is used by some car dealerships is ceramic tiles that are immensely tough as well as looking very professional. The cost of ceramics is not far off the epoxies and polyester. A good through coloured vitrified tile is required 10-12mm thick. The existing concrete should for all finishes be cleaned to remove all contaminants and laitance, which is best done with Blastrac'ing and heavily contaminated areas cleaned with hot compressed air. Chemical cleaning is simply not effective enough for most industrial buildings and looking at your floor suggests that this floor falls into that category. The vinyl tile option would seem to be an expensive option. 2.5mm vinyl tile/sheet costs about the same as ceramic tiles so that the thicker versions will be more expensive. The other issue with vinyl tiles is that they trap moisture and contaminants under the vinyl that can affect the vinyl and the concrete below and there is no way that you can have a sealed surface with the number of joints envisaged. Welding the joints in my experience is mostly unreliable as in 95%+ of the installations the welding is not done to the manufacturers specification and is therefore intrinsically weak.
lee use epoxy floor coat , there is a epoxy company in ferndown dorset . they can add colour to it , , i did my unit floor and i was tracking mini digger in and out and uc and RSJs that have sharpe edges , no probs so far 2 years on
If you put down vinyl, beware of oil spills and keep on top of floor cleanliness like a religion. Same applies to almost any floor covering, though. I've worked in places with epoxy covered floors and while they're hard wearing, the old Rubbermaid mop and bucket was always to hand in the event of any spills or drips. It's a bugger going arse over tit with a slip on an oil patch, especially in a machine shop environment - too many sharp edges to catch you on the back or the bonce.
Hi Lee. i wouldn't use vinylflooring. A forklift can get away with that application because of the size of the wheels. Vinyl should never be used with wheels that look like castors etc as the spread of weight is totally different to that of a forkl;ift. If you think how difficult it is to move an engine crance once the engine is attached, they are a nightmare and dragging it across vinyl is going to dent and tear it up in no time at all. This is exactly the same instructions and advice you get with vinyl flooring for homes etc. Moving a washing machine etc etc on Vinyl isn't a good idea because of the damage it does to it so can you imagine what damage an engine crane / hoist will do to it??!! You need to stick to a hard floor. i would go with the resin flooring that you see now being installed in a lot of RU-vid videos like Tavarish & Vice Grip garage did. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7xTgNMYdelU.html
vinyl doesn't like high pressure (PSI)....forklifts are fairly low PSI, your steel wheeled carts and engine stands will not roll well on vinyl. You need a HARD floor. Honestly, if you can get the floor clean enough, Expoy is the best way to ho.
compression calc you have a volume cylinder and chamber ...theres a piston that has travel ... compression should be the the volume the piston travels . lee do you take into account the volume of the valve in the chamber for the calc?
Just a word of caution about the vinyl flooring tiles - if they get wet at any point, water can creep along between the tiles and floor by capillary action and cause dampness and rusting to anything laid on the floor over a joint. (Ask me how I know!)
Vinyl flooring may be too soft, any concentrated load on the floor for any period of time will leave permanent impressions and depressions on the vinyl.
At last you mention the 'Millington' Have you ever done any work on one of them? I actually know Roy & Julian Millington who build them. You have your 'Lambo' Roy Millington has an Harrier Jump Jet that served time in the Falklands parked up in it's own Hanger at his farm, I been there and videoed it when the Rolls Royce 'Pegasus' has been run up.Check out the link of my video, Harrier VX 808 being run up Sunday 5th November 2017. If you do have a look at it turn up the volume when the Pilot fires it up i't's bloody loud especially when you are standing just a few feet away from it.
Lee, I noticed in your videos, when you are talking about the progress made on any engine, you are running over here, and then over there, back and fourth. When you rearrange the shop floor, are your work stations going to be more centrally located or closer together. A lot of time is being spent moving engine parts here and there that could be spent working on the engines? Thanks, Alan from NC, USA
10:24 get a volumetric burette of a suitable volume range and learn how to use it - you will get the actual volume in one go with no calculation needed. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burette
