This will be second time doing #hardwood #flooring. Its exciting and a bit challenging at the same time. We will see how it turns out this time! Thanks for watching. Product I used: www.duraseal.com/products/fil...
I'm a flooring contractor for 30 years. You've been a big help teaching me how to do moldings properly. How I would go about doing your floors. I would start with 40 grit on the drum machine. Preferably if you could rent a belt machine. Much better results. Start with 40 grit on the belt machine. go straight with the grain starting from the right working your way to the left. That's the way the machines are designed to cut. Gradually lift the machine into your starts and stops as it's moving. If you make a mark from dropping it too hard use your pencil to circle it so you make sure you get it later. Then I would use 60 grit on the edger machine, go around the perimeter. Keep that machine moving and you won't get into trouble. Don't make any ice cream scoops in the corners inside or outside. You can see them very clearly when you look across into the light source. Since you put compound down, go over it with the big big machine with again w 60 grit. Then follow that around with the edger machine w 80 grit. Run your hand over the area where the big machine lifts at the wall. If you feel a hump feather it out with the edger machine. The top walls need the most attention. The side walls are more forgiving. For best results. Use the big machine again with 80 grit paper. And go around the perimeter again with 80 paper on the edger. Now you're ready to scrape the corners, and hand sand them smooth with the grain. Now you take out the palm sander with 40 grit paper. Go around the whole perimeter let the machine do the work , don't press hard. use a handheld light and look for scratches. Those are your enemy. Palm sand any humps or problems. Use the buffing machine, or orbital sander with 120 grit screen, let it make lots of dust. Make special attention around the perimeter of the over your palm sander area to feather it into the main part of the room. Make sure you plastic your cabinets and doorways. Really good like you put them in a ziplock bag. Blue tape and plastic sheeting seal it everywhere. That compounds going to make a lot of dust like sheetrock compound. Hope this helps. We installed today. And are starting to sand and finish tomorrow.. If you have any questions during the process. Text me. Or shoot a request to WhatsApp. I could help you out in real time. . Hope this advice helps. Oddly enough I haven't seen any good videos, even by manufacturers on sanding tutorials. I'll be watching to see how it goes. I'll be happy to drop some advice once you move to finishing. you are careful and pay attention to detail. I don't think you're going to get in trouble sanding. Just don't drop the drum or make any ice cream scoops in the corners. Those are dead giveaways to homeowner jobs.
Gunderson Flooring and Design _ I’ve seen plenty of machines that are set up left to right! The best way to check is to drop the drum really quick on top of that filler. Then you can see what side it is cutting on especially because it’s going to be a rental machine that you are not familiar with!
Try rough sanding the floor first to make flat, then vacuum, then fill. It will prevent the "stops" you are talking about and allow the filler to penetrate into gaps, knots, etc. You will save filler and time. Just drop large amount of fill on the floor, cut out your edges and apply filler in 45 degree plow method working away from you. With this method you can fill 1000 plus sf in under an hr or so. Be sure to pre fill all knots and larger gaps to ensure the filler holds. Rough sand with 50 grit on drum, rough sand edges with 80 grit. After floors are flat, full spread trowelable filler.(this will save you filler and time) you can begin the fine sand with the drum within 1 hr of completion of filling process or when floors is visibly dry. Use drum sander with 100 grit for the field and 80 grit on the multidisc orbital plate for the buffer for all edges and make a pass over the entire floor after all edges are completed. Once completed use a 5in random orbital sander with 120 grit to reach all areas buffer could not. Hand sand w 120 all areas the 5in cant reach, then complete process by sanding the entire floor w 120 on your multidisc plate for the buffer. Vaccum floor, then proceed to either stain, seal, and finish or seal and finish. After these steps are completed abrade the finished floor after 24 to 48 hrs with a 220 grit screen. Vaccum extremely well then, tack(wipe down the entire floor with a damp freshly washed towel) the floor then apply the final coat. Unless you are familiar with fine wood finish the last step may take a few shots. Good luck
Been a Hardwood contractor for 20 years. You are doing a good job. I usually trowel fill after the first cut with the drum, flatter floor makes it easier to trowel fill.
Hope you guys are staying safe out there through this whole virus situation. I'm taking advantage of this time and getting these floors done! If you are a hardwood flooring pro, let me know your sanding method. I would really appreciate it! Also, I have not forgot about the wainscot video series. Once these floors are done we will be back at it with that project! Thanks for watching!
You're using the filler to soon. Fill coat right b4 final sand. All that vibrating from sanders can knock filler out. Use mineral spirits after sanding and micro fabric towels.
Usually on floors like these 40 then 80 them, same for the edger. Then buff with 80 screen then 120 screen. If you have to drop down a grit on the drum sander then you might have to 36,60,100. You should still be able to just 40 then 80 on the edger though. Can’t wait to see the video, good luck! 👍🏻
Also we always fill after the first cut vacuum it really good then do the trowel fill it will help to show you when everything is flat and when all the rough cut edger marks are gone 🇺🇸
Theres plenty of good advice for sanding in the comments, onto the finish. Stain highlights scratches in the sanding, and hides imperfections in finish. No stain does the opposite, you hide any small scratches in the wood going natural. Pick your poison. You can get a somewhat 3d effect by using an oil based sealer and finishing with a water base (3-4 coats). Oil or water are both on par these days just please avoid box store finishes. Good news is if you screw anything up too bad, you can resand in 5 years lol. Hardwood floors are awesome because even if the sanding doesn't come out perfect their functionality is still there.
Hey brother one thing that I like about you is your humbleness. Your not afraid to ask and get feed backs. That’s how you will become better every day. God bless you and your family.
Real issue is lots of pieces go to waste or should, as they'll have 3/4" missing from tongue or groove side.. On top of 3x the labor, so if you have nothing but time, it can "save", but when you spend lots more time, it really isn't worth it besides the look. Next big issue is tiny pieces. 75% of the wood is about a foot long. = more labor and even MORE room for error with keeping your floor straight... it's a real PIA.
Man, really admire you and your partner. You guys are not afraid to do real work ad you ar so honest and straightforward with your explanations. GREAT job!
@@gr33dyglutton While that sure sounds good, I disagree. RU-vid has a reputation for viewers engaging in "armchair quarterbacking" -- that particular kind of criticism is something he ought not be open to. Otherwise, I agree that we should be open to worthwhile criticism.
Peter Lawton totally agree. Criticism is as good as the person giving it. If this were a community comprised entirely of carpenters, then I’m sure criticism and advice would be a bit more welcome. But when you have a totally open system, where anyone can comment anything, you have to decide when you’ll be open to it. If I’ve been doing trim work for 15 years I think letting the pool boy who hasn’t never made a nickel doing trim work that his advice on trim work is unwelcome is the proper move.
One piece of advice I would give is to complete the sanding process entirely in one room instead of evenly sanding every room in the house at the same time. This will allow u to get a feel for how the rest of the house will turn out and to see if that particular process is actually the one that yields the best results. An old brick layer had told me u need to get a feel for every job u start so always start laying ur brick in the back of the building cause no one looks at the back of the building as much as they do the front. This will b ur trial/error field and u can allow urself to create a nice rhythm when u do finally make it to the front of the building. Peace brother!
just to say i really enjoy ur vids im a taxi driver in cork ireland so in isolation here watching ur vids are greatly helping me get through it thanks again
Thanks for this video. Never refinished hardwood floors, now doing our house. Helped me get over the get started phase. Applied filler tonight after using floor sander with 60. tomorrow we hit with 80 and 100 and then apply poly. Your house looks great. subscribed
I have nothing to add to the advice you have been given, what inspires me is that everyone is willing to help, share the secretes, love learning different techniques
Love your videos Richard!! Also glad your trying new things and bringing us along for the ride!!! I would watch you do the dishes...not even kidding mate lol!!
Thank you for this video and all the other videos that you produce and provide. For me, the thrifty homeowner handyman that I am, I would use my rubber float. That way, if I am lucky, I could do the whole house with that one bucket of wood filler.
BEST quote of 2020 "Now, my trim videos, I'm not open to criticism. The way I do it is the right way"!!! Boom Shacka Lacka!! And on my 43 yrs. on Earth I've never seen or heard of that product. Fantastic video taking along with doing something new!!
I've done tons of floors. All wood floors will move from the change of humidity. Luckily you live in a dry place and stored the wood to acclimate it. If a client chooses to have it filled we let them know the filler will probably pop and crack. So for the filler, I usually do a sanding with the big machine at 40 or 60 grit at a 45 degree cross cut. Use the sand from that to mix in some Bondo to fill knots and big holes. Then do the filler or wait til next step to fill. Then you know what you will be working with for filler Next use 60 grit with the grain to pull out the scratches. Then either do your filler or continue to 80 grit. If you started with 40, then do 60, and eighty. I'd edge after the 60 and do a final pass after the 80 grit. Then use a vibe for the finish lap to get rid of the edger circular scratches. When you do the fill or Bondo use the edger to get rid of of the high points and to save your big machine paper. Do an incredible vac twice with a clean bag for final vac before you put in poly or water base.
Def agree. Learned from my mistakes. Filler just comes right out if you do it before getting to the higher grits. Bonds with wood filler is a nice touch
Richard you perfect even the things you don’t do for a living. That’s floor is gonna be nice all said and done. Wish I had tips to share with you but no expertise here lol. Thanks for the video
I needed this video. Literally remodeling my house, just got done with drywall and headed to this same flooring in a week. Was wondering where to start, and this is exactly what I needed. Thanks for the upload!
@@SnMC14 I personally don't post mine online at all. It's mostly due to not wanting people to know that I'm learning all these different trades on top of my current line of work lol (I.T.) But when I do the floor, I don't expect it to be anything 'too' difficult, mostly just time consuming. With what feels like I may be out of work for the next month, I may have just enough time to get quite a bit of extra work done so I'll be able to concentrate on doing the floor before it gets too hot out (since I still haven't invested in AC lol)
So, if one has the patience and time, after the final sanding you can take dark furniture markers and get all artistic with the knots. Using a light putty kinda makes knots look unnatural and darkening them with a touch-up pen can work wonders on the final visual appeal. Years ago, a flooring guy I worked for told me that defects that are lighter than the surround stick out a bit, while darker than is usually okay. That is a general rule and cannot always apply but it usually does.
I do that on cabinet face frames with painted finishes. Sort of.... you can actually drop titebond (the only glue I use) on the material while sanding and it fills voids fast! Basically makes a good bonding filler and sands it off instantly!
Richard I put #2 red oak (2 1/4 X 3/4) down in my 2k sq ft house many years ago and had a similar size scrap pile. I gave it to the local High School shop class and the teacher was glad to get it.
I start with 60 , then 80 then 100 or 120 . Then you can run a buffer with a 180 fine screen. It will be nice and smooth. Edger you can get away with 80 1st pass and 120 2nd pass, then I use a small orbital sander with 100 or 120 grit to get rid of the edger spinner marks. Then a heavy 1st coat of polyurethane, buff when dry. 2nd coat buff again when dry and 3rd coat is the final finish and make sure you don't miss spots on the last coat. 👍 your floors will look beautiful doing those steps.
Your doing fine Richard! Looks good have fun! I did a two story Victorian and it was a pain in the --- swore I would never do another! 😆 hey I had fun!
36 grit , 45 degrees from grain direction then opposite of that then with the grain. All of that with drum sander. Then drum with 60 with the grain then drum again with 80. All of that while using edger with same grit. From there we go directly to 120 on the edger and disc sander then fill and 180. Don't get water on it , it will leave black spots when you stain. Three coats of floor poly 320 screen in between coats.
Vernon Smith i personally wouldnt go 45 degree from grain because there are no hard finishes on the floor yet. If im refinishing the floor with a hard poly or water base finish then i would do 45. Other than that i agree with ur method
@@danielmarquardt4341 There is no good reason to go too fine, the finish NEEDS something to penetrate and grab. Too fine will see premature wear with zero aesthetic benefits. I don't think any of the finish manufacturers recommend more than 120.
We just installed a white oak floor in our addition. It was character grade 5” boards in long lengths. We paid about $3/ft. It has tons of big knots and we filled them with a black compound. The plan is to skim the floor with a neutral filler so it fills the small joints with a natural color but the knots will pop with the black. Hoping it’s amazing. Thanks for sharing your experience
2:09 Another subtle moment that is just absolutely hilarious to me. I swear this type of thing, whatever this is, is what is going to be comedy in future. And I feel like it's already starting in a way. Because most out and out jokes now, just sound stupid. But this, this is gold. 😂
Hey there buddy - I’ve been doing floors for over 13 years now- I did a project very similar to yours - I’d start with a 36 sand paper specially being white oak #3 - afterwards you can jump straight to 80! Works well and gets rid of all machine lines and marks - obviously once that’s done - you buff it with a 100 screen- ( as long as you keep it natural no stain - job will come out flawless!!) Let me know how it goes 👍🏻🇧🇷
Practice with the drum sander on plywood, you need to develop the “touch” so you don’t gouge the hardwood floor. The previous owner of our house (built in 1937) refinished the hardwood floor himself, he’s a computer programmer. He gouged the floors badly and you could see where there was a lot of poly in the divots. So, we had the floors redone by a professional before we moved in. He said the previous owner had sanded so deep in spots that after this refinishing job, we would not be able refinish the floors again, we will have to replace the floors.
Man, I was hoping to critique your trim work for once! 😂 Just a few tips that will make a huge difference for you. Definitely pay attention to how much you’re cutting on the field of the floor with the large sander. You don’t want to get too aggressive trying to take out all of the ridges in that #3 stuff on one pass. That’s probably the biggest “rookie” error. Trust the process! It sounds like you did a good job removing your cull lumber already so that’s good. Just keep the speed consistent and you’ll be good to go. Contrary to what you would think- you can “cross-hatch” sand a floor like that on your initial sanding and it won’t hurt a thing. You’re already a good woodworker so you’ll be fine. You will likely need to use filler between standings. The transition between the field and edges is definitely the hardest part to do. The most critical part is to run the edger on the lowest speed possible to get the job done once you get to the higher grits. Think of it this way- you can use a palm sander on wood and almost burnish or polish it and you DON’T want to do that here. You will definitely see a difference in the absorption rate of stain between the edges and the field if you’re applying stain (not mentioned in the video). If you are- and because white oak is actually a pretty dense wood- I recommend “water-popping” the floor before applying stain. This allows the grain to open up a lot more consistently and you won’t notice the transitions between the drum sander and edger as much and it allows your coatings to apply evenly. If we weren’t all locked up I’d say I’d pack the tools and come help you all git-r-done! I know it will look good brother. If you have questions on coatings or water vs. oil products let me know. I’ll get you my info. Have a good day and keep that ‘Rona at bay! 😷
A woodworker may want your rejects, especially someone who does small projects like game boards, figurines, etc. It’s oak and not yellow pine after all.
50g 80g drum sander 80g 120g and 150g with American sander hydrasand to make flat and 3 cut waterborne clear in top. Using 220g each cut so it can be abrasive.. piece of cake good work
A tip for using the trowel, turn it around in your hand so your weight is more centered over the vertical connecting part of the handle, you'll get a better use of downward force and save a lot of strain on your wrist. I learned that by watching concrete finishers so many years ago that you were just a gleam.
I did a #3 grade red oak floor like that. Personally I would not fully spread the filler everywhere like that because it takes more sanding. I went more or less row by row and filled the seams / imperfections in a targeted way and way and then went right for the 80 grit sanding. Then we did like 5 coats of polyurethane. Looks / feels great.
I used filler like that but never to fill joints only open grain and knot holes. A rubber grout float works well with medium to lite pressure. It’s the old get enough on but not to much deal. Best of luck hopefully you get the results you want.👍.
I've been doing hardwood floors for over 20 years now, what you're doing is fine. 👍 you're going to sand it later so no big deal it will all sand nice and smooth and even with a drum sander. 👍
So you use a pre-fill? Ie you feel the floor before your first sand? That's pretty unusual what is that new school. I'm 49 years old, 34 years in, I don't think I've ever seen anyone, nor have I myself, pre filled an entire floor before the first sand. Don't get me wrong, this trade is change so goddamn much it's hard to keep up. So I'm not saying it's impossible, just not the norm.
I watched like 20 of your videos, you are great carpenter but you dont need to apply that much wood filler to a new floor, plus try to fill those dark spots or (holes) with black wood filler they look great. I used to work for a company in new jersey named floors by the shore , so i learned a Few things from them. Now i do home renovation and when i have so trouble with some transitions i watch your videos,, God bless you man 🇬🇹
I have installed probably around 300+ floors in my business so far and i have never used a wood filler like this.. ALL wood floors move. they expand and contract and just plain move no matter if you glue them or so crazy with fasteners. Any time i have ever seen any type of wood filler used within a year later its all cracking and falling out. even if you poly it or cover it with a protectant. If you want no cracks and joints i feel you need to purchase a high quality hard wood flooring. Like with most materials you get that you pay for.
I restore old floors been doing for 30 years I use my sawdust mixed with filler bonds amazing and only use 40 grit if I am cutting old stain I think that your doing a amazing job
I just did a floor, covered with Polyurathane sanded again then added another coat sanding again then sanded again sprayed the floor. I felt like I was sanding forever. living room floor was done years ago. No chip out. Just lots of work. Nothing better than a beautiful job. I used a gloss Your can use flat, but I prefer gloss.
I see guys do it in S shaped motions around and around until the floor is done - probably so it fills in from every angle. That said I have also seen guys using the sawdust from sanding the floor, mixing with wood glue (have heard Elmer's Wood Glue Max works best), a little bit of water and making something similar to what you have. The reason they use sawdust from the floor is because it is from its own woods it blends better. I am redoing a wood floor - pretty sure it is hard pine. 90 year old floor and the crawl space beneath it wasn't insulated for like 80 years of it - I did it. about 7 years ago - anyway so you can imagine how warped they are! It took me 3 days to sand the thing LOL. Anyway - getting ready to put the filler on it to fill in gaps, etc. I will be making my own using wood glue and sawdust - this video came in handy in estimating how soft it should be. Like pudding - good comparison. Hope your project goes well - good luck. 15:26 - that's a good way to catch yourself on fire. The fire can eat up the stream back to the source so to speak - not good to dump on an existing fire. To do a fire start with twigs then sticks then wood as it gets hotter. That's the proper way to do a fire.
Nothing to do with helping yourself flooring project, but I used one of your videos to learn to do a return on the baseboards. I am not a pro so I know you would probably have done better, but I appreciate your videos cuz they help me really helped me work at some of those fine details in my DIY projects.
I think one of the first things that should have been done, was to introduce the name of the product. I had to wait until 11:15 to see it was Dura Seal wood filler, other than that you did a great demo.👍🏻
I bought about 1500 sq ft of red oak off Craigslist. Different widths longer lengths and completed 3 BR, hallway, and large LR. About $1.00 a sq. ft. Turned out really nice. No filler... Rented rectangular orbital sander (i know drum sander not for 1st timer) used Watco medium walnut stain danish oil stain and water based finish (shouldn't yellow over time ) Parks water based at Home Depot leaves a very nice finish. This was a first time for me too. I wish I could share a picture.
used to do hardwood floors and I would sand with 80 grit on a 45 both ways to level, then 80 with the grain, then 100 grit with the grain. Then I would apply filler. Then 100 with the grain, 100 with edger, then coat. However if I was using stain I would do the same thing but I would scrape out with the grain all the edger marks, then 100 grit with the grain everywhere I did the scraping. Using that method would get great results, even with dark stains, nice and level too.
It’s a lot easier to spread over the floor after you do a first cut with the drum sander...works either way but less work to spread and sand! Looking good ! Glad you share your projects with us!
Back in the day this is how and what they used to fill floors. My Father been in the hardwood and flooring business for over 60 years. When I was a little kid this how they did it. You got 2 gallons of gasoline, mix a bit of linseed oil and get the dust out of the edgar bag, because that dust is alot finer then dust from the sander. Mix this up into a slurry kinda like. Grab a good rag and put it in the bucket and spread it all over the floor filling all the nail hole 5/16 pushing the rag all over the floor. Let it dry and either broom it in or use a mother rag and work it into the cracks. Dust brush it out and coat with polyurethane. Back then it was shellac. Had to keep the windows open and check for pilot lights on the stove and water heaters and turn them off. That's the way it was back then and just insane by today's methods. I wouldn't even let it enter my mind to do it that way again. Crazy to think that's the it was years age. If you have 5/16 in you home, when you can see the nails threw the top at every header and every 7 to 9 inches it was more then likely done that way.
Just be very careful with the drum sander. I would not start with an overly aggressive grit. If you have not used a drum sander before, it will leave a huge valley in your floor. So take it slow, not so heavy a grit and be sure to keep the sander moving. Other wise you will end up with a floor that looks and fells like a motor cross track. Looking good, keep up the great work.
Robin Jaeger agree. Also the 36g on a 45 degree comments are ok for a pro sander. But for someone new it would be a nightmare trying to remove those deep scratches not to mention the chance of ruining the floor by practicing with such a low grit paper
Im doing floors for first time and Im having a good laugh, I just finished 45 degree cut with 16 grit🤣. Now I’m afraid to look at it. I think it’s ok since it’s a huge open floor and hickory. Every seam has a small ridge and was taking forever with 36.
I just found your channel. Nice video, I was looking for you video sanding the floors and what machine you used but can't find it. Checking out the rest of your vids, good stuff! 👍
I like to sand off the filler while it's still a little wet. That way there's some give to it and there's no chance it will chip away while your sanding. I also put a lot more pressure on my trowel because the dust from the stuff is brutal. I just want the filler in the cracks not a thick coat of filler everywhere
We would do a first sand and capture all the sawdust. Then we would mix the dust in with epoxy and squeegee fill in all the cracks and holes with that mix. Then we would drum sand and finish with the stand up square sander. Carbide scrape the corners. Our boards had a lot less defects; however, clients had the heavy cash. You'll be happy with what you have. Nothing beats actual wood. The engineered rubber stuff creeps apart and throws back heat in the Summer.
What brand of epoxy would you use? Would it come out of the joints eventually also? We also just installed cabin grade red and white oak. We love the texture and different knots. I do not want to trowel everything just the long cracks where they don’t line up because of the milling inconsistencies.
I am a wood floors mechanic and i have been in the field since i was fifteen years of age. Here's a list of things i would have done differently after watching your video: I would sand the floors FIRST and brign it to a 60 grit sandpaper starting with 36 grit, then i would WOODFILL whatever the customer wants filled, if you woodfill the floors prior to sanding you are just using unnecessary filler as most of it will get stuck on the boards at the seams and the butt ends since the surface is not flat or even. The knot holes will be properly sealed if you know how to apply the sealer and the subsequent coats of finish, so no need to fill the knot holes. HOWEVER if the customer wants them filled then that's what will be done. If you like seeing character on the floors then leave the knot holes alone, just make sure the sealer is applied properly as mentioned above. So to summarize: 1. Sand PRIOR to woodfilling. 2. Leave knot holes alone as they give superb character to the floors, the sealer and finish coats will seal them properly and if any moisture gets trapped there it will quickly dry out. 3. Using fillers will work to a degree but fillers WILL fail as time passes as it cracks and crumbles from the natural movement of the floors. Good luck with the rest of the process and be mindful when using the sanders!! :*) Here's my cell# 6315211260 I'm located in NY. If anyone needs to have their floors sanded or replaced.
Richard when you spread that stuff you should have used a fresnel for the large area then taking a 4x20 trial and one around your edges and it would have feathered out the edges really nice and the Fresno would have feathered it out really nice also so you had a nice even layer all the way around just food for thought
You want to do your first pass with the drum sander before using the wood filler so you wont have to worry about the unevenness and you get more coverage. Looks good though!
I use woodwise which looks pretty much like yours. I add about 1/2 a cup of Titebond II for every gallon. When I vacuum, the filler stays in the cracks.
A also like the look of a rustic floor. But when you factor in the time and money spent filling and sanding I’m not sure it works economically. Love your videos.
6" puttee knife. Let it dry a day or two. Get that belt/Drum sander Palm for perimeter. start with 60...Give your wood filler light..Light coats. The deap knots you will have to give several. Aftter 60 go with 80. Then 120. I am not going to tell you about the perimeter you do outstanding work. Suck everything with a shop vac after you sweep it. let it settle then vac. I sometimes will wipe it with turpentine to clean things off. i don't know if this will affect your filler. Feel it with your hand. Go with a 180 grit. This should be your finish sand...if not go one more up. Depends on what you want for a look. Now the first coat if you are using a good oil urethane satin finish go light or cut it with paint thinner. Let it dry...give it a light sand till smooth. Tack it and or vacuum. 4 more good coats sanding in between lightly if your are anal. Let it dry for at least a week. Then it is set to go. Now let me ask you this...if you found a solid 3/4 inch pre-finished 2.25-4" Wide for $1.69 a square would you have done it...Damn RIght. Next time shop around. .99 first pass. Your labor filler. Sanding 4 times and clean up. Then putting down the urethane. Cheaper to get it pre-finished....Period.
I live in East Texas. Near me, (30 miles) , are 3 custom cabinet shops and 2 molding companies. Often these companies burn what they do not use ( in the case of the molding companies, if it is not 8 feet long and "perfect", it gets burned). In the case of these 5 shops, 3 allow ANYONE to go thru their burn pile! I pulled 60 yes 60, virious width (2.5 to 11inch wide) and long ( 4 to 13 foot long) all #2 white oak, out of the burn pile, just this last trip out there. Before that, the molding company was making hickory molding. I got a 12 foot trailer full of all sizes and lengths. Did I mention it was free. One shop, if you will get to know the guys who own it, will save their scraps and metal bundle their throw-a-ways and load it for you with their fork lift. It is just a guess but I must have $3000 to $4000 of just dressed oak ALL given to me just by asking. Why am I telling my secret? Because it seems almost a sin to burn all of this wood. And yes they also have wood that is really not usable for a project and that you can burn this winter (seasoned hard wood, all for the taking). So, the moral of the story is find out what businesses use wood and go by and get to know them. Most love what they do and love talking about it. Blessings
A few suggestions 1- please use graphic/ visiuolation what are different between this product and others 2- how you calculate waste 3- what is the most important for cost, life time etc I like your video looks honest and sincere Thank you
Well it's a cool project and all but I probably would pay a little extra on the flooring material and save on the labor time. Also the cost of renting tools, buying other materials to fix all the dents and holes adds up, if it's not a profession and jst a DIY. Thank goodness to being young and having the energy to put in work, but I rather spend that labor time with loved ones! Just one of those jobs you probably wouldn't do again if you didn't have to. Thank u for the video as it was informative and an insight on buying cheap vs not, in my opinion. I do believe that there is always a way of making things work as long as we put in work. Thank you for all your other videos as well, I learned a lot!
Whoa, I have never seen any co tractor do this. I’m guessing it’s because we use non knotty premium grade flooring. But interesting that something like this exists. Seems like a good lesson for you to learn from. In the future, it’s much more economical and less time consuming to go with a premium grade hardwood.
Lol he's said it in the other flooring videos that's what he likes lmao. I guess some people just can't comprehend people actually like other things lmaoooo
JPer, sure for $4.00 - $6.00 per sq ft. Did you even listen to Richard explain why he chose to go with #3 grade? Exactly what lesson is he supposed to learn? How not to spend less, yet generate a beautiful finished product or how not to work a bit harder to save some coin? How is it “much more economical” spending three to six times as much for the product? Especially when it’s his own home and he has the time to spend on the project. Did you even “listen” while watching the video or did you even watch the whole video. Because if you had, then you wouldn’t be making such ridiculous statements! Geez....
"I would have bought a Tesla if they made a long bed, I guess we're all different" You and me both brother. People just don't seem to understand why working folks need/want a long bed.
I absolutely dig the way primitive floors look, so grade 3 flooring would be cool and inexpensive. My only question us when the day comes where you have to sand and refinish the floors, do you have to skim them again after you sand and sand again?
