CP-e QKSpl Downpipe Installation 

It was seriously one of the most frustrating pieces I have ever removed from a car.

Good stuff! Let me know when you have your car back on the road again!

I'm sure you probably know and I'm hella late but make sure you have fuel pump internals upgraded before any upgraded turbo/downpipe mods.

The catback is definitely on the list, my bank account needs to recover a little first!

Good to hear it helped! Getting that OEM downpipe out is still the hardest job I have done on this car!

Did you end up putting the heat shields back on with the new downpipe? Any video I watch, nobody does and im curious if its cuz its not needed or they just chose not to.

The heat shields that go on the firewall, I reused. The shields on the downpipe? No. Reason why nobody reuses them is that the aftermarket downpipes don't have the mounting bosses on them like the stock downpipe. Even if we wanted to reuse them, no way to attach them. I am working on fabbing up a heat shield that will attach at the firewall so I can sort of block that area off. Most end up using a heat resistant wrap to keep the temps down. I am thinking about wrapping mine, but that won't be for awhile.

Five Five Garage how did you get the bottom nut off the down pipe? What tools did you use and how did you approach it? I can’t get that damn thing off because of angle etc.

@@Jaywheeezy1986 I think I had to use an open end wrench and a ratcheting box end wrench. There isn't room there for anything else, socket wont fit. You can try getting at it from the bottom, I remember that took a bit of time to get out. Thankfully the stud came out with the nut so it made installing it a little easier.

FMIC is coming. I have done some rudimentary measurements and looking for a core that will fit without too much modification. Trying to do this as hassle free as I can, and hopefully save some $$$. After I get the FMIC, it's tune time!

@@FiveFiveGarage I cheaped out on my fmic with cxracing. It's good for 300hp. Anything more go treadstone. I now run the tr8. Worth every penny. I think most will require a new crashbar or some type of modifications. Can't wait till you put one on and return. It a big improvement

Treadstone is currently on the top of my list for a core. I just learned today that there is a dyno not far from where I live, so hopefully I can get the last of my parts and do some runs pre-tune with the top mount and post tune with the front mount and results. And hopefully a production budget, dyno time is PRICEY!

Yeah the OTS doesn't offer the huge bump I was expecting, I am definitely looking forward to getting tuned. Where I live I have easy access to e85, and I am really excited to see how the car will run with an e85 tune.

Five Five Garage make sure you dont go full e85 you will have to run a blend on our cars. Looking forward to more content! Keep up the videos!

I am going to run the 30% blend. Full e85 does nasty things to the HPFP on these cars. Thanks!

Use lots and lots of PB Blaster. Soak it and let it sit, sometimes overnight and slowly work it loose. Also try using some heat on it too.

I haven't yet, although it is one of the things I get asked most about.

If I remember correctly, the CP-e downpipe is made where you dont need to use a gasket. I don't remember using one.

I reused the stock one and it fit ok without issue.

A new downpipe (depends on what you get) could be more expensive than the repair. If you got the time and space I would get a new downpipe and not have to worry if the repairs are going to last.

It might, only issue I can think of is the firewall clearance.

I will get my research together and add this video idea to the list. It is actually a great idea, I am not sure if people know there is actually an order that you should follow when modding the MS3/MS6 platform.

Some of the factory heat shields don't have a place to bolt to. I do have something I am going to add.

MikeyandS2 I installed a catless downpipe and big turbo with no heat sheilds and all of my cables are fine.

Depends on where you live. If you only have to do a sniffer test, probably. If you have to do a visual, nope. Most Speed 3 owners hang on to the stock downpipe, and swap it in to pass emissions. Once passed then the aftermarket downpipe goes back in.

Where I live I don't have to do emissions testing. I am going to guess and say probably not. Keep the stock setup for when you need to get tested and swap it back.

The custom tune is coming. I think I want to add a FMIC and I have a couple more small pieces (I want to upgrade the EBCS to a Grimmspeed or JBR) and then I will get tuned. After that I am going to really dig into the suspension. Celestial Blue is one of the best colors!

The stock boost control solenoid beings to have issues once you exceed 15 lbs of boost. Upgrading to a BCS with a better valve allows for faster response time, as well you can run a 3 port setup for use with a bigger turbo. If your goal is to turn up the boost, it's recommended to replace the stock BCS.

Just take your time and take breaks if you need them. Be careful and make sure you get the o2 sensors unplugged before you remove them. The hardest part, by far, is getting that OEM downpipe out. Once you get past that point, it goes together pretty easy.

@@FiveFiveGarage so basically the o2 sensors pop out and then you just baby the process of unscrewing the bolt? Also what size torque wrench fits in those spaces? Thanks for the help G

The o2 sensors I recommend spraying with PB Blaster to help get them loose. You are going to need a good oxygen sensor socket, I rented mine from the local auto parts store. Don't try to remove them all the way first. Get it loose and then work it out slowly so the threads don't strip. You can get the upstream o2 sensor out while the OEM downpipe is in the car. The secondary o2 sensor I disconnected and removed when I got the OEM downpipe out. You can use a 3/8 torque wrench but for some of the downpipe to manifold bolts you are going to need extensions and a couple universals. There is one nut on the bottom that is a pain to remove and a pain to tighten.

It just a moving blanket, I got from harbor freight. It works great because I can spread it out when working over the front. This project was one of the most frustrating to do on this car, I should have used the unedited video of gettting the downpipe out but the language I used isn't family friendly 😆

Five Five Garage thanks! Haha. I’d almost pay to see that video. I probably said some of the same words myself. I’m doing mine solo as well. Getting read to pull the turbo this week. Waiting for my BNR S4 v3 to arrive.

I haven't had any issues with any of my 02 sensors not being in the "ready" state so I have no CEL's. If it is just a sniffer test and you are tuned it "should" pass. If it is also a visual test, it will not pass.

Didn't use the donut, the end of the downpipe is made in a way that you can't use it. It hasn't leaked and its going on years now since I did this.

Is it getting colder where you live? That code usually happens when your o2 sensor isnt up to temperature. Try letting the car warm up for about 5 minutes then drive. You can also add a o2 extender to the o2 bung so that the sensor isn't sitting directly in full airflow. Which dp are you using?

@@FiveFiveGarage I'm using the CPE catless DP, and yeah it's pretty cold here below 35°. You think that putting the full catback will fix it?

It *might* fix it. I would get an o2 extender and give it a shot, that is usually what fixes the issue. Even with the full catback, the 0421 code can be a problem.

You will have to either download OTS tunes from Cobb or Corksport. But I highly recommend that if you install a down pipe to get a tune and not run an OTS. Freektune, Purple Drank, Stratified, Nishan, any of them will give you better performance than the OTS tunes.

You will need supporting mods to add a downpipe. Just adding it alone opens a Pandora's box of issues that can cause serious damage to the engine. Removing the restrictive stock downpipe increases the air flow escaping the engine and you can get into over-boost situations. Or you flow more air than the stock map can handle and its trying to dump fuel but you max out the stock HPFP and go lean, ZZB. If you want more sound, I would suggest a test pipe/race pipe and maybe a different cat-back.

Next video: how to turn your Mazdaspeed 3 into a time machine

@@FiveFiveGarage Hahah perfect, yeah i'm a bit late to the party but at least i'm here!

The bank 1 sensor is the upstream sensor, that is the one you see on the bellmouth of the downpipe. That sensor is the Wideband sensor, which the ECU/Accessport relies on to do AFR readings. They can go bad with age, at the same time, removing them requires care, because if the wires get twisted and the sensor goes dead, the car will not run properly. If it is damaged it needs replaced. Check and make sure the O2 sensor wires are ok and connected, if so and it still gives you a code (I think its a P0136), replace the O2 sensor. Make sure to get an upstream sensor, the downstream sensor is not a wideband and it will not work. The shop is right too, you will definitely need a tune. Removing the stock exhaust setup removes a huge bottleneck in terms of air flow, the ECU isn't mapped for it, and the car is going to run lean. The ECU is going to try and dump more fuel to compensate and the stock HPFP can't keep up (please tell me you upgraded the HPFP, if not, do it before you drive the car again) and that is how these cars go ZZB.

@@FiveFiveGarage Thank You for the reply! Yes Hpfp was my first mod. The codes I got as soon as I started the car was p0134 for 02 sensor circuit no activity detected (bank1 sensor1) and p0031 for HO2s heater control circuit low. I was planning on getting a custom tune from freaktune but the codes are holding me up since idk whether to keep fighting the shop for damaging the sensor like corksport suggested or if the shop is right and there is nothing wrong and a tune should fix it. Currently I'm running Cobb's ots stage 2 map. Again thank for the information.

No problem! I would definitely get that sensor tested. Just from the two codes you posted, it seems to me to be a failed O2 sensor, no tune is going to fix that. Good luck on getting it sorted out!

Yeah. Mine weren't too bad. The ones that did come out, I cleaned the threads and used Resbond when I put them back in. They haven't backed out since. You can buy replacements from Edge Autosport for like $3 or $4.

O2 sensor socket*

I rented one from Autozone. Its a thicker wall design. Use lots of PB Blaster as well!

Yeah I was having issue with it. No codes and everything has been fine. Try to get as much slack in the o2 wires as you can to try and minimize the damage.

@@FiveFiveGarage Thank you so much. I thought it was me. I really appreciated your video

Thanks for watching! I had a time trying to get that plug off! I was more worried about damaging the plug, so I got as much of the wire free as possible to try and make sure that I didn't twist it tight. The secondary o2 sensor came off far easier.

@@FiveFiveGarage hey boss I'm into it and the trick worked! Thank you. Next question. I have everything loose and wrestling with the pipe. You removed the middle frame brace correct?

Yeah. You will need all the room you can get to be able to wiggle the old pipe out and put the new pipe in!

Try ordering from edgemotorsports.com

I would not install the downpipe without a tune AND upgrading the high pressure fuel pump. Without the Accessport (or some way to tune it) the AFR's will go too lean under boost and damage the engine. Before adding anything really, the HPFP needs to be updated, that is a mandatory must-do mod.

Thanks

I can install my cat back for now??

Yes, the cat back will be fine for now.

Thanks you are the best, i check the price of the accesport and high fuel pump but is cost a lot damn.

No fitment issues at all. Once I had the stock unit out, the cp-e fit right in on the first try. The studs are easy too, there is that one that is a pain, but that is with any downpipe that you put on this car. If you were looking for a recommendation, I would highly recommend it. Everything lined up, the hanger mounts were correct, it even bolted up to the stock catback with no issues.

@@FiveFiveGarage thx for the reply,i will be ordering, cheers!

Going to the cat-back? No, the cp-e instructions said it wasn't necessary, and I haven't had any leaks.

Did you also come up short when you went to put it on. Mine is like 2” to short to the exhaust

No, I was able to put the end of the downpipe snug up to the catback with ease. I had a small gap it was definitely not 2" though. Did you get the downpipe new or used?

A weekend, but that also included having to move the camera around and do many takes when I screwed up. If you soak all the nuts and bolts in PB Blaster a day or two before you take it apart you can do it in afternoon. The hardest part for me was getting the OEM downpipe out. You have to rotate it to find the right angle for it to slip out. Getting the o2 sensors out can be a bit of work too.

@@FiveFiveGarage one more question. i’m currently installing it and don’t see any new gaskets, should there be any or no?

Yes, there should be a gasket between the turbo and the downpipe.

The socket is a 7/8 (22mm). If you have an Autozone or Advance Auto near by I would recommend using one of their rental kits. The sockets they use have thick walls and will not warp under torque. I also recommend getting a can of PB Blaster and pre-soaking the threads of the sensor the night before you start and then while you work it free.

Yep, I believe that was a 10 mm.

Bruh are you serious

I was ~60,000 mi when I installed the downpipe.