I think Creality just need to slow down a little and work on improving QC & refining their printers taking a little longer between iterations. They're releasing printers too fast with barely any improvements to each.
I'm having a blast with my CR-6 SE so far - so far needed zero mods or alterations except a slight tightening of one of the wheels which is a standard check when building. The CR-6 shows what they can do - hopefully they'll do the same for their other models.
Yes you have to check each bolt on the cr-10s. The main reason for returns with them. Seems to me they loose half the sales from returns for this exact reason. & this is why you can go on ebay and have a supplier with 10-20 of these going half price.
I use my CR10S5 for cosplay pieces and printing multiple pieces in one go, and it has been nothing but a dream. Crazily enough, its bed was less warped than my ender 3's was so I went without ABL for a while. Its print quality is on par with the Ender 3's as well. Personally, I think the Ender 3 and CR10S (4 or5 if you want large volume) are the way to go over the CR 10s Pro line. I prefer reliability over a touch screen or silent stepper motors.
Cable chains like Igus sells would be a very neat and effective solution for those drooping extruder cables. Seriously it should come standard with that kind of stuff, any serious linear motion machine does.
I just finished the frame for my 3d printer build. Its same size of this and im into it $25 so far. Look up the piper2 3d printer. You make the frame out of conduit and 3d pri ted parts haha
Hi having trouble with the cr10 max its got the z height below the table and does the height with the probe then trys to drive the nozzel into the table on the last movement, is there a way to set this back to the right height or a total reset ? thanks David
Creality got greedy and all they care is pumping printers out on the market.. how about better quality control ? I got 3 printers from Creality and all of them required upgrades and mods just to get it running. I am done with Creality ! never buy another printer from this company. Say what you want people but if you compared the Artillery X VS the CR10S Pro its a huge difference in term of pricing and build quality.
hi sir,,,,,excusme,,,i have a questions about this machine.... i made 3D Object using solidwork, and then i'm import that file (*.sldprt) to *.stl file, then i'm open that file using creality-slicer. my question: 1. why object has i made is not smooth? can you give me some advice about my problems? 2. why you can make a bigger object without support? (t-rex head project) 3. what software you use to make 3d object??
@Barry Allen This is confusing. The comment you replied to asserts the printer is relatively expensive, you say it's cheap. TT seems to think it's overpriced, as well. You seem to be out of step here.
@Barry Allen I have a job. I don't just get to troll RU-vid pretending skill and knowledge I don't have, attacking legit comments because I'm insecure and have a tiny little printer.
@Barry Allen silly troll. been printing for years. don't need your trollish advice or opinions. learn to read. legit comments, not knowledge. what are you, twelve?
@@magnetmannenbannanen I'd say in retrospect that slinging a thousand bucks to make PLA prints of anything is as insane as Me. 3D printing isn't really worthwhile unless you are printing houses.
@@TeachingTech which printer would you really recommend. I am a cabinet maker and own a 10ft CNC machine and would like to get into printing. I have no experience with printing so far but don't want to buy something cheap. Which brand would you recommend. Thank you for taking time
That's really disappointing. This was one of the ones I was most hoping to get. I'm just hoping the Ender 5 Plus or the Vivedino Trex/raptor is worth the money cuz I need a large one for cosplay.
Ever tried talking to a Chinese helpdesk? They may have an English speaker on the other end who's like sales support or something but the workforce are generally Chinese and don't understand them. Besides by the time you have finished getting your message across you will have spent more than buying a homegrown 3D printer.
Idk it really seems like the printer is a POS. Just like my cr10s pro. I've done firmware by tiny machine installed a bltouch and creaswome mod..... end result it's still doesnt come close to the 2 ender 3 I have.
Great video. Personally I just love the CR10 Max, have been using this machine for a couple of years now, no serious problems. Really enjoy printing full scale models, so this machine completly changed how I work. Thanks for sharing :)
Looking at the clicking extruder around 5:32, there was enough back pressure at the nozzle that the filament spring back was reversing the stepper motor. So nice thing is the bondtech gears were working well... because it wasn't slipping, the compression was actually back driving the stepper motor. Increasing Vref will help you push harder, but at the end of the day I think the limiting factor is not enough melt capacity for the volumetric output you were trying to generate. Two solutions: 1.) Increase the temperature so you can get more Delta-T on the filament. 2.) A better over all solution is a different hot end with improved melting capacity so you don't have to run artificially high temperatures to minimize back pressure. Great video as usual.
Timely video, really helping me cut down to what I should buy for my first 3d printer. Going to be a Prusa family to start off. But will keep an eye out for a large format printer to buy 2nd and then Frankenstein it with kick ass parts.
Coming back to this one 3 years later it's funny to see how much improvements have been made in the 3D printing world. Now a similar sized printer costs half as much and has significant improvements like the Elegoo Neptune Max.
I hate to be this person, but is Creality sending you a Ender 5 Plus? It's the first printer I've really been interested in from Creality since the CR-10. Edit: Changed my mind, just continue with the you-know-what linear rail one :D
I'm hoping to order my ender 3 in the next week or so and will be all over your channel. I really like how you explain things. Thank you for your service
Im looking for a printer to do interior elements of around 1x1 m in size, it's totally amateurish but I am looking to limit the number of parts so am looking for a good 250/250 or 350/350 bed and rather the larger than the smaller. Any recommendations?
I bought the max a few months back. I had several of these issues with many headaches from the bowden coupler letting go of the tube. And the spares provided letting go as well. But after some work and patience its now my favorite 3d printer
If there's one thing you can always count on creality for, it's shipping out products with minimal quality control. Even when they're shipping one of their premium models to a major internet reviewer, they just give ZERO fucks. At this point, I think it's some kind of inside joke within the company to see how bad of a reputation they can get and still keep selling printers.
.8 nozzle at say .4 lht means your pushing 4 times the plastic. 40mm/s and 230c nozzle should take care of it. With my 1.2mm nozzle i run 30mm/s and as high as 240-245c (yes for pla)
So the takeaway is you have no idea how to tune 3d printer hardware (here is a clue: It's in the hardware, not the slicer) and do not check the tightness of assembly after delivery AS IT SAYS YOU NEED TO IN THE MANUAL BECAUSE OF TRANSIT VIBRATION. Jeez, what a drip.
Anything else for 1k i could get at 450mm square size? i have cr10s pro v2 and it is bad ass! no issues whatsoever, but im looking for something at 450mm as well, and this one seems like too much hassle, although i am familiar with all the fixes for it.
Clorox Bleach you’re missing the point. Yes, firmware can be changed, BUT this should NOT be turned off by default. If they can add automatic bed leveling and filament runout detection, then why not just turn it on? Seems like no one has told Creality about the Anet fires!
a thing you really need, octoprint with TheSpaghettiDetective automatically pauses prints when it fails. its in beta now, so still free. I recommend you test it, maybe even make a video about it if you want.
Everything, after the CR-10 has been, are a complete disappointment in the CR-10 range and now they bring out this oversized heap of crap, I think Creality need to take a step back and focus on the quality of there printers.
Great video! And funny enough still very true for the Creality Bigger printers. I just received my CR10S5 two months ago and have had nothing but trouble with it. It came with a lot of these features already. And Kudos to Creality for that but the nozzle continues to get clogged, Dual Z Axis motors weren't in sync and bar wasn't parallel with the bed, tiny little thumb wheels for leveling the impossible bed, the glass bed isn't completely flat and heating this massive 500mm by 500mm bed takes almost 10 minutes and is just about impossible to keep prints from pulling away. I'm definitely going to be using a lot of your recommendations, even though mine isn't the Pro Max. Thanks for everything you do for the community!
That's way too much screwing around to make a $1K device work. Changing firmware? Having to use a DMM to adjust stepper motors? Broken components and loose screws? Extruder problems? No. That's just unacceptable. Why anyone would purchase a device like this to be productive and 'just print' is beyond me. The volume area is fantastic, and I personally can see a lot of uses for that, but if the printer doesn't actually work, then its print volume doesn't matter. While it doesn't have quite the print volume, I'm glad I went with a resin printer, it literally just worked out of the box. From the first print, to the latest, I have not had a single failed print.
I have a Creality CR-10 Max that I've just received, so far I can print gcode files that came on the SD card, but I have not managed to print a single model that I have created and generated using Creality Slicer 4.8, I am trying to print a simple cylinder that has a wall thickness of 2 mm. It just doesn't stick to the bed. I must be doing something fundamentally wrong, just don't know what is wrong.
I am starting to regret ordering one of these, but this is the only semi-bad review on this specific printer. I guess i'll find out what happens when it gets here
Big size ender 3 not much more still same layout. I don’t see any improvement. Still didn’t come with a seal enclosure. Look like they just upsize and just cashing in.
I'm a new subscriber and I need to print a 600mm X 200mm X 200mm part, what top 3 - 3d printers do you recommend? Can I get a smaller unit and print it diagonally/vertically (basically on the volumetric hypotenuse )?
Hi Just watched your video about the cr10 max it was great video. Can I ask have changed the nozzle yet if so we're did you buy them from please as I'll looking for a 0.6mm nozzle Thanks
What firmware is best for the CR10s v5 Creality Firmware or Marlin can’t get mine to work right with either so I’m buying a new motherboard with the CR10s v5 already loaded for $5 more see if that works if not it’s up for sale to buy a better one!!Thank You for all your videos they help me a lot!!
Hello, I have a Creality CR-10S Printer that I can't get to print. The z Axis goes up and down when homing but won't When Printing. It just stays on the first layer. Is this a printer problem or am i doing something wrong in Cura ?
I reckon I'll stick with my S4. Old and clunky and has entirely predictable issues but coming out with something with even more issues at twice the price makes no sense at all.
help!! have the new bondtech ddx and mosquito hotend with the 300c heat cartridge and thermistor, cant find any walkthroughs to update cr10 max or the mainboard information for marlin. I have no idea what I'm doing! it's a hell of alot of work for a one off update.
Hi mate. My filament sensor on my cr10 max pauses and resumes print, but it doesn't pause quickly enough and trys to finish the layer before moving out the way with nothing coming out the nozzle, it pushes the cut filament into the boden tube and past the extruder before it stops, then, when you sort that problem and resume print, it extruder all the way as it travels to where it resumes the print.. any idea how I can fix it, thanks Ed.
Can anyone recommend alternative to this printer, that dosent cost a fortune? Atm this is the printer that seems to best suite my needs, but there are so many printers out there. Also, creality quality control seems to be a tad unpredictable. So, if there is something better i should consider i will take any suggestions with a big thank's Also, how hard is it to improve this printer, thinking about upgrades, or mods. How "future proof" is it considering future printing materials that maybe demand higher temps, etc? Tnx 🙂
if Creality made cars, they'd all be lemons why this is accepted by the wonderful 3DP community because makers like to tinker is beyond me there must be a 3DP that works right out of the box without any modifications, adjustments or fixes thanks for the review, Michael, you saved me tons of time, cash and headaches
Good review. Was considering this to do some large objects in one go. Not worth it by the look of it. Cannot spend hours tweaking a machine. I will look at a better manufactured one.
I have the cr 10 s5 and i have as i used an ather filament a problem with underextrusion but i can fix this and also is is a good printer. And he prints good for smal and big objekts but a closed build room have many advantages. For print abs or be like asa.
Using massive nozzles with large layer heights is more complicated than it seems. Your temperatures with a standard 0.4 nozzle/0.2 layer height just won't cut it. Your temps have to be recalibrated, extruder steps, extrusion multiplier, part cooling, etc. I think Creality gets away with it on their smaller printers, but its very obvious where they are pinching pennies, and their QC is definitely sub par. I don't regret my Ender 3 because it prints great and has taught me a lot, but that's only after a lot of time and investment getting the quality and reliability up. For a printer of this size and expense which is obviously NOT a beginner/entry level printer, it should not have all of the same issues.
Great review Michael. On the surface it looks to be a decent printer, clearly it still has issues and it's far too expensive to gamble. Although, to be fair, my Borg definitely cost a lot more with all the extras it has :-)
For the amount of money and time you have to spend fixing Creality printers to overcome QC problems and bring up reliability and print quality, plus initial printer cost, does it become feasible to simply build your own printer at some point? How hard can it be?
I'm looking forward to the community stepping up for this printer as with the cr-10 and ender ranges. I bought this printer and have endured part of the steep learning curve to the point where I have moderatley good prints at 0.4mm, havnt even bothered with 0.8mm. I have had to replace the bltouch and my cap tube has been shortened after snapping and popping out a few times. Mods ive done include calibrating e-steps for all axis and extruder, updated firmware(probably not with thermal protection), anti-backlash screws on z axis (I need to revisit this mod but it is essential) and inserting a stick into the cable tube to the extruder so it doesnt rub on the bed. The bed needs constant re-leveling and gets warped very quick (I think glass is the way forward, layer shift is so likely in swaping material it would be better to get a 3KG roll). So what we really need for newbs like me is a comprehensive guide on both MODS and machine/Slicer settings to get the quality prints. Its a shame NEXITECH hasnt got more info on his tricks of the trade as he seems to have got very good prints at both 0.4mm and 0.8mm. I agree with earlier comments that creality are spamming out to many printers and not getting the ones they have up to spec. Its fine relying on the community for the cheaper models but the expensive ones arn't going to get the same kind of attention.
Great review! I just recently came into the 3d printing hobby with the expectation that repairs and tweaks were going to be a constant thing. I've only had my Ender 3 for two months and already had to replace a bad wire, and make a few other tweaks but the quality prints I am getting for under 300 bucks Canadian, amazing!
So it came with loose screws where you was not supposed to check? sounds like a flaw in the production quality , i guess they dont have a check for that. maybe they should use lock tite?
With working Thermal Protection....OMG Creality turn it on at the start!!! I had to use different firmware for my CR10S Pro as well to make sure it was turned on. Creality is like only a half step above ANET, least there is hardware for the termal protection.
I have the CR-10S Pro, have some issues worked through them, dealing with Creality customer service I would rate it poor at best. I think what sells creality is the size of what you can build, the max to print ABS you would have to build a condo around it. Poor quality control. Thanks for your video.👍
I have this printer im happy with the prints so far. Im having bed leveling issues where i set up bed hieght than after it auto levels the hieght is off and it different hieght every time within 1-2mm off. I usually have to adjust after print starts. Thanks for the videos very helpful.
It's a catch 22. Everyone keeps asking for quality parts (genuine Bondtech gears, BL touch, Capricorn, two Meanwell power supplies [750W is ~$150 USD]). But if they'd skimped we'd probably be happier with the private/quality ratio....
@@Ardren ... think they were like mmmm how can we sell the same shit but in a bigger package .. lets add some brandnames we can charge extra ... it hasent got to work we can attempt customer service after we have the $
HI, excellent work like allways. Can you tell me, where I can download fw with a heat prot.? On my Cr-10 Max the bigest problem is low real temp on nozzle. I think this is about 20 degC minus value on display. So I need about 240-250 degC for PLA and materials like a CPE or PETG with higher real temp are for me unprintable. I think that your problem with a low layer adhesion on big printed green can maybe was too "cold" too? And - dir you met a problem with a homing in X from maximum Z value?
Yea I'm running into a few little things to i ran a few cable management prints and I needed to beat it off the build plate with damn near with a hammer when the prints finished ....OVER KILL
The problem that you had with brittleness is probably due to a too low temperature. A 0.8mm nozzle needs a lot higher temp than 0.4. I would increase a normal temperature of 200 to maybe 240 with such a big nozzle.
at that scale belt runs are very long, so corexy is not ideal there either, a standard Cartesian -- ultimaker style is more appropriate at larger sizes...bed would only go up and down, but kinematics are more conducive to larger formats.
@@DamonCammish sure, there are other corexy designs which reach 400mm cubed for a similar price point. The size here is 500mm and above, the racking that happens due to the longer belt runs in the corexy config would require some expensive parts and engineering to avoid.
I've just ordered a CR-10 Max. My CR-10 has been well hammered with pretty much day and night use for the last two years. If I get the same results as with my CR-10 then I'll be happy. I just need bigger build volume for prototyping bigger parts, hence why I bought the Max.
@@jenspetersen5865 the Max works OK. Print quality is pretty good with PLA. Have to baby it a bit with PETG but it works. My CR-10 now has a Trianglelabs direct drive extruder with all metal hotend and is great. I prefer it to the Max. Been printing 24/7 for last 5 weeks and hasn't missed a beat. Whereas I've had the Max apart a couple of times in the same time frame to clear jams.
@@TYGAMatt Thank you for the answer! I have two CR10S that I don't have time to figure out how to fix (drive boards), but I need the build volume of the Max for a prototyping. I have had loads of problems with the CR10S, whereas my Ender 3 Pro has been great. Is it the hotend that is the issue on the 10 Max, or are there things mechanically that play a role. From the outside it seems like aside from inertia, everything else would be better on the Max, but appear not to be.
@@jenspetersen5865 if printing PLA its fine and will print happily all day. Also printed a fair bit of ABS on it and that's fine as long as its not a particularly big or tall part that's liable to split or warp. Haven't really printed any TPU with it so can't comment on that. PETG is OK as long as I print slow so that I can use the lower end of the temp range of the filament. Trying to print PETG at 60mm/s and 0.25mm layer height like on my CR10 with DDE is impossible. It just grinds the filament and jams. As for speed with PLA, you can crank it up to around 70mm/s and it copes. I use a 7mm/s jerk and 500mm/s/s acceleration and get acceptable results for what I need. It doesn't rattle around as long as its sitting on a sturdy bench. I use my CR-10 for playing with firmware settings and general fiddling.... The max I just leave alone as much as I can and just print. Oh, one thing is the factory build plate. The thing warps like crazy. I finally got a mirror cut a couple of weeks ago and it's way better. With the stock build plate you'd see the Z axis working overtime on the first few layers levelling things out, but no longer the case with the mirror. And finally. Make sure that the X gantry it trued up. It makes a big difference.
The issue with the layer seperation on your vase if probably due to the plastic not heating up enough. With a nozzle that big on a heatblock that size, it may simply not have the time to get up to temp if the speed isn't turned down.
Seth Krumm Agree... need to heat up a bit more... it is too much volume to pass quicly for the heatblock in a higher speed (for that nozzle size). Need to balance it... no v-ref changes needed.
Teaching Tech Ok about v-ref. Marcus, keep in mind that you can go until 235 for PLA... expecially when you print with higher layers and wider nozzles. In Ultimaker community we make a calcularion about the volume to use a proper balnce beetwin speed, nozzle width and layer high... multiplicate all of those and you get the volume for m^3. Try to stay at 3-5mm^3/s for stunning quality and 5-8 for faster prints... more than that and you can get underextrusion (at least in UM2 printers). Cheers and keep up this awesome work!
0.8mm nozzle on cheap pla on stock Ender-3, I find it maxed out on 0.6 layer height and 40mm/s print speed with cura and much higher temp than specified 210c maximum, 220 in fact, any lower and it will start clicking. I'm afraid something like E3D Volcano might be of consideration for larger volume print
