So I just inherited this mower from my wife’s grandfather that passed away over the winter. The mower was running great at his house, when we loaded on the trailer. Just pulled it out today, and the damn thing won’t start. I was thinking it was a starter issue or a dead battery, but your video just saved me. I had to take the plastic guard off of the deck to get it onto the back porch. As soon as I saw your video I look down there and saw that safety trigger completely exposed, so I put the guard back on… And I’m mowing grass
I've owned this mower 6 years and I'm very familiar with the safety switches of which there are 4. At first the interlock switches drove me nuts until I found a schematic of the mower and was able to decipher the interlock switch logic. The blade engage lever, the discharge chute cover, and the brake pedal switches will prevent the mower from cranking. The seat switch or if the blade is engaged and you shift into reverse will kill the ignition. I have bypassed the discharge chute switch because it's very unreliable. I also bypassed the reverse switch because it's very inconvenient not being able to mow in reverse. After making these changes I am happy with the mowers operation. One caution is that it's not very stable on side hills, the center of gravity is high (with driver) and the track is narrow.
Thanks to this channel I should do a tutorial on my delema solved. Over heating after 15 minutes on hot day or 40 on cool day. Replaced a lot of parts but then I bought a spark tester. When it stopped I checked for a spark and there was one. So not electrical. I then went strait to the carborator and tore it right down. Found a lump of grass / dirt in the carborator at the gas intake partially blocking the float valve intake. Removed it and cleaned the rest of the calibrator. Put it back on and reassembled. Works 100 percent. This has been going on for 3 seasons. Thanks to this channel I went in the right direction. Thanks.
RICK C hey Rick that is awesome news I'm so glad you got that fixed and worked out. I'm glad to hear something I said or showed may have been of some assistance to you. That was exactly my point of a video that it might help someone someday.
Jeremy - the design on these things is crap. The carb is so cheep. The parts are all in a bad spot. Like you said you pretty much have to tear the entire machine down to do anything. It does cut well when it's running. It's made by MTD for craftsman, cub cadet, troy built ECT. Mtd is brutal FOR CUSTOMER SERVICE. If you think you might have a warranty think again. They suck. I have an older troy built snow blower that awsome but that's from before MTD took over and started making them cheaper. I have a dynamark 42 inch rider at the cottage that's over 40 years old. We got it when I was a kid. Runs better than this piece of junk. Too much plastic. Too Many ways to break by design. Broken stuff means buy a new one. Rip off. ....Now that I have vented...thank you again. You Rock.
I have the same year, exact mower. I went through this on Saturday 5/18/2018. What a pain in the ass. I went to NAPA and bought the 94 octane bottles ethanol free fuel with the fix it fuel to clean the jets, didnt work. I went after it just like this guy and had it apart the exact way in under 30m minutes to clean out everything except the upper jets, which I think is the culprit. Well he is right , after about 3 hours, draining out the ethanol fuel, new fuel filter, oil change and filter, 3 bottles of throttle body cleaner and carb cleaner, new spark plug and air filter it continues to idle up and down, which I believe is dirt or debris within the jet or bowl. I witnessed the bouncing of the linkage and thought there maybe a way to stabilize it. So after calling a few buddies who live and breathe these things, I came up with a surproof fix. Take a zip tie, to hold the throttle lever open at a higher rpm for about 5 minutes, zip tie the throttle line to the choke line so it cannot bounce. then quickly pull the fuel line and put the line in Pure Seafoam so it sucks in nothing but right into the carb. hold it there for about 5 minutes total time at the set higher rpm. WALLA abra cadabra.. ITS FIXED!!!!!. perring like a kitten. I then topped off everything with clean bottled non ethanol gas and away she goes!!
Man I see a lot of problems out there. I'm a master auto mechanic over 35 years so I can figure out anything once I see the problem source. However, I bought this from Sears over 4 years ago expecting it to be a POS mechanics nightmare and it has been problem free from day one. (knocking on wood) LOL, must have been made on a Wednesday! I have a tip for y'all. When I change the oil, filter, and fuel filter once a year, I extract from the oil fill tube with an oil siphon in my case it's a mighty vac hand pumped into a large reservoir. Forget that drain plug mess. Besides, mine won't budge. Also, when it gets real hot out, she likes to lean out and sputter. So I hooked up a small cooling fan and switched it off the battery. Pointed it right at the carburetor and mounted it there. When it's telling me to take a break, I switch it on and go inside 10 minutes and continue on. Cools it right down. I trickle charge the battery 3 times a year just to keep it topped off. I bought a Duracell Ultra battery from Battery Plus Bulbs and it spins over like nobody's business. Happy mowing out there.
Thank you for this video,, mine machine wasn’t cranking either and I was able to fix it within few minutes after your video. Really helpful instructions 🙏
Thank you so much on my Second new battery. couldn't figure it out after 3 hours watched your video and didn't realize there was a safety shut off under the shrout. took it off cleaned the grass out that were stuck in there and it fired right up thank you
I just wanted to thank you for posting this video. I have this mower. It was given to me from a great neighbor friend that just didn't use it. Anyhow, I have had trouble off and on with no power from the ignition. I knew it had to be a safety switch but I didn't know which or where. after seeing this video, it showed me the one on the mowing deck which I didn't see. I simply pushed in on it and right away, had power. Thanks again!!!
@@adolfomorales2624 The only one that I found was on the mowing deck. I am sure there are more but since I found the one, haven't had any issues since.
Thanks! That pressure switch by the discharge chute had become disengaged and wasn't even mentioned in the manual. This video solved my problem right away. Thank you!
Well, thanks... needed this info, but must say I work on this dam thing way too much to keep it running... but it definitely takes a beating, this mower beast when running good, I run it up hill, side hill everything and cuts fine as long as your tires are inflated well and sharp blade! Dont know why people dont like this mower, IF you have a little common sense and a little mechanical ability... get this mower.. but be aware, if you can keep on top of it it's a cool little mower.
JC, Thank you for video. You saved me alot of time!! and $$. The idle air jet on mine, clogged up. I couldn't figure out what to do. And you answered the question for me. Thanks again. It kept surging like it was running out of fuel. God bless.
My mom's rider would only run for a few minutes up to maybe 20 minutes and start to back fire and then shut off. Fuel bowl was empty. No issue with the fuel line coming into the carb. Took the carb off and cleaned and inspected it. Worked better but still the same issue. Repeated the process; same result. Replaced the carb; about $27 on Amazon. My recommendation if you have the same issue is to replace the carb. It not difficult to remove the carb but it does take time.
I have owned this mower with the exact same engine for about five years also and never had an issue with this engine. I do try to run 100% gasoline and if I can’t I usually add some ethanol neutralizing additive. The only thing I’ve done in the last five years is change the oil and one battery.
Dudes a joke I hog one of these for free the guy thought it needed a starter. Turns out the starter had come loose bolted back tight three years ago and this mower starts every time I use it and outcutz as far as quality of cut any other I've had
Dude! Literally about to call somebody out to fix it. Adjusted the shroud and fixed. Thanks so frustrating. Went through full diagnosis with multimeter couldn’t figure it out.
Hi Jeremy - thank you very much for this video. I couldn't figure out the issue for the life of me - I replaced the solenoid and the ignition switch and still nothing. I watched your video, kicked the damn deck back in place as you showed, and it cranked like brand new. I should have known to try harder to find a video on issues with this mower. Thanks again for the video.
Thank you! My son went out to mow the lawn for the first time and our R1000 wouldn't start. Started looking at the switches , but didn't know about the one on the deck. When out and fixed that and it started right up. Thanks for posting the video... Very helpful!
Same here 5 yrs minimum issues. I do run alcohol/ethonal free gas. I did add a shut off to the fuel line. Shut fuel off after every use. At the end of the mowing season shut fuel off and run till the carb runs out of gas. At the beginning of the mowing season I disconnect the shut off from the carb side fuel line. Spray carb cleaner into line. Give it a couple steady squirts then reconnect the shut off to the line. Open fuel cock, choke and start it up. As for the safety switch by the discharge chute, use a zip tie to depress and hold it in. Don't forget to keep an eye on your oil level and change every couple of seasons. Change your fuel filter and air filter when you do the oil. Check your blade and sharpen as needed. I have gotten 5 yrs. out of my battery even leaving it in through Iowa winters. Just remember to always shut your key off, if not you can discharge your battery. There are other videos to help you bypass other safety mechanisms if you choose There is one that gives you the ability to mow in reverse. Okay people, stay safe and happy mowing.
I have recently had a 2017 model in the shop that was surging well I cleaned carb multiple times even in my ultrasonic cleaner no change at all ordered a $40 dollar carb off of Amazon put it on and it runs like new here’s the carb … labwork Carburetor Carb for MTD 951-05149 HY-4P90F Cub Cadet CC760ES 12AE76JU Mower
I don't know what this guy saying but I've had mine for 3 years now and it is by far the best cut it looks like a golf course when I cut with this thing I think it all has to do with rear engine design. It's never given me any trouble just minor maintenance spark plug blade change that's about it. Just went through hurricane Sally and this little Mighty horse pulled some big logs for a week and a half straight to the front of my yard out by the road with no problem at all this thing has been through hell and back and hasn't given me one liquor problem the reason why I bought it is because everybody Raves about them how good they are. Mine is a Craftsman r1500 and I love this thing
Well that's good to know. As you can read from the comments below you seem to be the only one without trouble. If you don't know what I'm saying. Reread the comments and watch the video again. You'll catch on
I run 91 octane, do a full tune up and cleaning every fall, in I've had 0 issues with this mower for 6 years. I live in iowa where winters can be long. I pull the battery and store it in my basement and I can get 4 years out of it. If you take care of this mower, it will take care of you.
Thanks for trying too help ppl. I have an old Craftsman mid engine with no spark. Damn ground issue from coil. Pull ground off, runs but won't shut off The fix? Bypass ground too starer switch. Is that finding the real issue Hell no! Thanks all you RU-vid experts! Ya didn't show how too fix the problem ,but bypass it. DAMNIT man..
Eff me in the xxx running….THANK YOU!! That stupid switch on the grass shoot had me one RU-vid video away from pouring gas on it and setting it on fire. The thing runs good (BS things like this aside) but I think they built a mower around the motor. Geez!!
One way to keep your carb clean is to run some 2 cycle premix before winter storage, or the last time you mow for the season. Works better than fuel stabilizer IMO. I've never had to remove/clean a carb in the last 20 years on my mowers. I live in northern IL where the mower sits for at least 5 months and they always start without issue with the old gas from the previous year. I think the gas evaporates but the coating of 2 stroke oil prevents varnish?
I got one used, I should have watched this first, it was working great, but now it stalls every time I engage the blades. It runs and drives fine, but stalls turning on the blades. Your right, a hunk of junk. I should have never bought it. I'm thinking it might be the belt, but it seems ok.
@@jcssmallenginerepair3261 it turned out to be the sensor on the deck. The guy I bought it from put tape on it and it came off I didn't notice it right away. Hopefully this thing lasts me a few years. As you showed on this video, they're not very good. I'll find out, but I only paid 200, so if it lasts a year or two I guess I got my money's worth.
I just need to know how long the stupid thing is! The parts houses all say 35.25" but the one I've got is 35.25 and it seems to be about 6" or so too long.
another thing would of been to cover how to replace the drive belt. it sucks, found it much easier to do after you have the rear taken apart as you did
I have one of these mowers. It's only a year and a half old. I currently have a no start crank/rolling in park - situation. It seems that the parking gear won't engage preventing me from starting the mower. Also I noticed that I was having a hard time stopping it before shutting it off which led to my current free wheeling no crank situation. This problem occurred at the end of mowing my lawn. I had to roll it back into the garage as it wouldn't start due to not going into PARK. It rolls free in the PARKING gear.
Lol i had mine since 2015 never had an issue changed battery once never changed oil or air filter i have learned as i got older Put it up when it cools!!! back in the storage building alot of people just leave them out in the weather and expect it to run like new when there ready for it had a pushmow once never changed oil had it for 16yrs got rid of it because the muffler fell off lol noisy
That shroud switch got me 2 yrs ago but contact cleaner got her going. Now having another safety switch issue. Power ok solenoid OK, going to check continuity on other switches. Let you know what turns up. Starting at the seat switch(looks like a tear down to get to)
I have the same issue as Melissa Fuller. I was mowing some high grass(4-6 inches) and apparently missed a large rock when canvasing the yard pre-mow. As soon as I hit it the mower stopped and I pulled it back and removed the rock, checked the blades and tried to start the mower. It would not do anything, no sound, no clicking ,nothing. I'm gonna check the blade shroud and hope that's it. Whether it works or not I'll be back to let you know.
I just bought one off some one, the hoses coming off the air filter are dry rotted, especially the thin one. I can handle the main fuel hose with ease. but the 2nd thin one that comes off the air filter assemply, I can not track to where it goes to.
you listed a bunch of problems except the one I have. Right now every time I try to get the blades to start it won't go. Have had trouble with the other things you mentioned though.
@@jcssmallenginerepair3261 I got it running again. Idk what the problem was. The engine ran fine, but the blades wouldn't engage. I wonder if it was just something that needed to shake loose because I said there working the action over and over trying but didn't see anything wrong.
I just bought a R1500, Basically same mower as yours almost... I bought it almost brand new from a guy who used it only a couple times, and then decided he didnt want to mow anymore, and parked it.... I drove it at his house and drove back with it, drove it and started mowing the yard then all sudden stated bogging down and shutting off, I can crank it, it'll stay on for few minutes then start bogging and then trying stay on then finally give in. Then wait 2 minute, i can recrank and itll do same think few minutes later... little annoying trying figure out what exactly it is, I changed the gas, fuel filter, and so on... Starting think its the Carburetor, but i opened it and it didnt seem dirty at all.. Trying find videos on this dang thing has been a pain and trying get some input.. Thanks.
if this situation continues after it's been running for a couple minutes. It sounds possibly like your fuel cap is not venting properly. The very next time it happens right before it shuts off try to open the gas tank. If you hear a lot or air escaping or pressure releasing.. there's a good chance your gas cap is not venting like it should. Or do you possibly could have something floating around in your tank that would be blocking the hole where the fuel drains into the fuel line
Jeremy Calnan I tried the gas cap trip and it still did it, I did order a new carb just in case, cause it just feel like a fuel issue, which is weird for a mower less then a year old, but idk how last guy did I just know he parked it with gas in it for a year after trying it one time
I own this mower and this video helped getting it running again. That safety switch is awful. But I got it to work. Now my mower does not move when put in drive or reverse. Just runs but doesn’t go. Any advice?
I would definitely check the other safety switches. Some of them could be malfunctioning. If you can disconnect them and blow them out and clean them out to make sure the contact is getting a good connection. That may help
Also make sure that the transmission disconnect lever in the back of the mower is pushed in all the way. If it's pulled out it will not allow the mower to move
Ive been fighting a problem for 2 yrs now and cant figure it out..when I turn the steering wheel it doesn't turn..grinding noise..I changed the gear at the end of the steering wheel and the part that the gear sits into and does the same thing..any suggestions
i have a r1000 and hit a root that caused the mower to shut off. When i started it back up it ran until i engaged the blade. Now it smokes like crazy . The belt is rubbing somewhere I just cant figure out where? any suggestions?
Hard to know specifically. But if you think about it the blade is connected to the mandrill and on top of the Mandrill is the pulley where the belt is .. most of the police have some sort of belt guide right up against it or near it. That is to prevent the belt from popping off when you shut the blades off too fast. So there's a chance a small bracket could be rubbing on the belt if anything is bent. I would also check to make sure the mandrill is not broken.. a lot of times they're made out of cheap metal
Just got one of these cute things from the scrap yard. Gut claimed it ran and I am good with small engines. Looks like Chinese engine like everyones doing. (Now just saw this shot issue after in for the night.) So took it home won't crank on it's on. Replaced good fuse anyways same issue. I jumped the starter solenoid still no sparrk. So removed the single black kill wire to the coil on the carb side. Still no spark. Seems setup like a Kolher engine with the charging sytem tied into the coil after taking the shroud off. Grrr. That wire removed should have caused spark. Side note I see Troybilt made the same exact verion by another guys video here how to repair troybilt rider not engaging. Also looking up parts for mine on Parts Tree says MTD 247.290000 (13B226JD099) - Craftsman RER1000 Lawn Tractor (2013) (Sears)
@@billylykins7773 I would first remove the cover that's located in the very back of the mower. It's the metal shroud that covers all of your drive pulleys. I would just want to make sure that your drive belt has not popped off or broke. From there I guess I would have to check up underneath the mower to make sure there's no debris or anything blocking the tensioner pulleys from engaging. I don't recall that that mower has a neutral pull lever. Most mowers have a transmission disengagement lever that you can pull out so you can push the mower freely if you're needing to move it around without starting it. I'm pretty sure yours does not have one
My dad has this mower, been nothing but a major pain in the ass for the last 2 summers, runs for about 20 minutes then stalls out, then runs rough and finally quits. I know it's in the carburetor but after an hour of trying to remove it to clean the jets my brother and I gave up...
How do you remover the metal place with the cutout to remover the carburetor. Your video shows no metal plate below the belt pulley and the carburetor bottom. Troy-Bilt TB30R 10.5-HP Manual 30-in Riding Lawn Mower
If it's like mine you need to remove two bolts and it have little triangle cut outs that bend down like barbs. You need to push it forward and pry it up then pull it back to slide it out.
Sometimes when changing oil , it can get messy.. oils could've gotten on your drive pulley or drive belt.. that would cause it to slip and not want to move or move well. I would double check all belts and pulleys to make sure they are not wet with oil. Let me know 😊
I would first check all of the linkages and make sure everything is connected properly. You never know when you might lose a cotter pin. But I need to know a little more information. Does the lever still physically move to the same location. Does it "feel" like it's going in?? does it feel like something is binding or preventing it from going all the way in?
Definitely would first assume it's one of the sensors. Especially the seat sensor. If the sensor does not sense that you're in the seat it will immediately kill the mower when you try to engage the blades
I agree this mower is a piece of JUNK, no wonder Sears went out of business. Safety switches have been my main issues! Use zip ties, they are your friend!
How do you bypass the switches for testing when you think you have a bad switch. Also, i switched to using only recreational fuel in my small engines. Way better.
@@twsted72shortshots3 I only know how to bypass a two-wire safety switch. By creating a small jumper wire about 2 in long it has male spade connectors on each end so you can just plug it in to the socket where the harness is and that will bypass it. Anything more than two wire I'm not really sure
I have one of these. The double pulley at the back keeps popping out of its seat. I cannot find a picture of what the bottom of the seat should look like......photo from the ground up would be helpful. I can see/feel a hex nut on bottom but cannot figure out what is missing that should hold it in place....if you can send photos or answer...i thank you.
@@jcssmallenginerepair3261 hey Jeremy I replaced the motor on my mower like yours I had to take the plate off from under the mower that has the shifting rods or clutch tods hooked to it I thought I could remember how this goes back together well after a couple weeks of not messing with it for the life of me I can't figure out how thst bracket and pullies go under tgd rngine I was hoping you could take a cpl pictures for me send them to me so I can get this mess back together thanks in advance
Potentially could have been installed wrong but I've also seen where the wrong carb will fit on the mower but have these issues so if you want to shoot me over some photos. You can find my contact info on the website www.jcssmallenginerepair.com And I'll be happy to try to help figure it out with you
Hey great video! I was cutting the grass yesterday and the blades engaged, no problem. Then I went to eat lunch came back and the mower started up, but the blades wouldn't turn on again!? That lever to engage the blades works (it makes contact with that small button) but maybe there's a wire that blew or something? Would really appreciate your help!
The button does not engage the blades. It is the safety sensor. The blades engage mechanically. Check to see if the belt is not off the wheel or broken. When you move the lever it moves a wheel and tightens the belt to engage the blade. There is also a spring that may be off or broken.
Ive got the same mower fill it with gas mow acts like it runs out of gas at 3/4 fill it and runs again just started that this year have no idea whats up can you help
John .. I would first open the gas tank and inspect the inside of gas cap make sure it's not breaking down and crumbling apart. I would also take a flashlight and inspect what you can inside the tank. If there is any sort of debris in there it will find its way to the drain spout where the fuel goes into the fuel line and clog it. Once the mower shuts off the vacuum pressure releases and so the debris will float again. Also have you change the fuel filter at all since you bought it?
I have this mower which was my dads, it has sat unused for 2 years. I need to change oil and gas. How do I drain oil? This thing has been a pain in the butt. But then again I am unfamiliar with them.
Question for you? I have newer version of this mower and for some reason when I put it in 6th gear the clutch/idler pulley doesnt come out all the way. I have to help it with my foot. If i dont it will not achieve full speed, I pulled most of it apart and cleaned the idler arm as i thought it was gummed or binding. After doing that, gears 1-5 engage snappy but the 6th gear still needs my help to fully engage. I am out of ideas.
@@ms30250 I've seen stranger things.. but i wouldn't think so. Possibly if any mounting bolts came lose and the lever/ linkage shifted.. maybe lost cotter pin its hard to say... Maybe removing the cowel would give a better view of things.. also check clutch lever/ linkages
@@jcssmallenginerepair3261 it sat all week in the garage and when I fired it up on Friday it's back to normal. Maybe a belt/pulley was wet or got a little oil on it?
I wish I could. But I no longer have that mower. It was one of my customers. I just rewatched the video and through my description I think I may have covered everything on how to remove it. If you get stuck in a particular spot please let me know
My mower was working wonderful until today. When I depressed the Clutch pedal down to start it the pedal stays down and it won't come back up. Any Suggestions?
Possibility that a linkage is broke or bent. They all operate on a spring system and pivot points .. check to make sure that they return spring is still.it is responsible for letting the foot pedal come back
awesome job I have one of these... I just changed the blade on it .... And now it does not start..I checked the sensor on the deck but still not starting
Hey thanks for the video. I have one that revs out at maximum rpm constantly. I can’t use it as it as all the bolts are coming loose since it is revving so high. Any idea what this could be? Thanks and God !
Typicallythat would be related to the throttle cable or the governor which is located on the side of the block. You would should check all of the linkage that is directly connected to your carburetor make sure nothing is stuck wide open or bent
I changed mine out, but it keeps slipping out the middle pulley if I touch ANYTHING. If I try to change the deck height, pops off. If I put it in park, turn the blade off and get off the mower, POPS OFF... so annoying. I’ve done everything I know to do. I need help! Lol
@@willwatkins3343 I did figure out how to change mine. You may be missing the guide bolt for the belt. On troybilt website (www.troybilt.com/en_US/prior-year-models/tb30-r--troy-bilt-riding-lawn-mower-/13CC26JD011.html?d=t#/Troy-Bilt/13CC26JD011_TB30R_(2018)/Drive/6891a8bf-9f83-40e3-bb16-e019603eb875/20834473-f53b-49ce-85bc-c43d05135ab4/y ) look for drive diagram it is part #10(710-1026) and #30(750-05563 it keeps the belt on the track. The only other thing I can think of is that you have the wrong belt. It needs to be a v shaped belt to stay on the pully track..
@@jcssmallenginerepair3261 thanks very much yes i saw and followed this thats how i have it installed but there is slack in the belt not sure what else could be wrong other than belt size but i purchased what it called for
@@dwightarnold1824 ok .. let's check for all pulleys and see if they are loose. Let's check and make sure you are not missing any springs that are used for tension. They would be directly related to the blade engage lever.. Let me know if you got a direct replacement belt or one from Advanced Auto.. how did you match up the belt?
You mentioned there are 6 kill switches. I have a no crank situation. Have have checked the seat and the shroud switches. still no crank. What are the other places to check. Thank you.
I would check and make sure that the button that is connected to the blade lever is not stuck. You are not allowed to start that machine with the blades engaged. If you're getting a no crank. There is a fuse that you need to check. Follow the ignition wires coming from the back of the ignition
@@Txs.Guero14 I would check the fuel shut off solenoid that's on the bottom of the carburetor bowl, make sure that's functioning properly. And then I would check for spark at the spark plug
I have this mower and the problem I have is it keeps eating the drive belts, just ordered a new drive pulley to see if that's what is causing my problems, any help would be great.
Yes I drive pulley may help. But while you have it apart I would check for any bent belt guards around where the pulleys are. Look for any abnormal vibrations because that could clearly indicate something is bent. Let me ask you does it appear that the belt just snaps or is it showing signs of something rubbing on it?
One other thing I have learned over the years that many people do incorrectly is engaging the blade and disengaging the blade. Be sure when doing so you do it carefully and slowly both engaging and disengaging.... Especially disengaging. Some people just hit the lever and fling it off. Meaning they let the spring tension slam the disengage lever down. This is especially horrible for mowers and it causes a lot of slingshot action if you will... Which in turn could cause the belt to get hung up or rub on things that should not
Do you have a diagram for the 3 belts on the mower. I am replacing all 3 and something doesn't seem right foe the front belt to the deck and the rear lower belt
shultzy2112 I hate to hear that. But I do have a question for you. If it's strips out every year? Have you not replaced it before? I guess I'm just a little confused. I'm not sure if you're saying It happens every year and you've had to replace it but you need help with something else or if you just simply need help replacing it because it has finally stripped out and you have not changed it before?
Hey our mower like this one would not start, so my husband check the oil , it was low .so he put oil in it. Than tried to start it.it had gas coming out from under I seat .somewhere. I could not tell where it was coming from. Today I went toncheck the oil. To see if he might have over filled it. There's gasoline in the oil.. What's the problem 😕 Gas
Okay your problem is a simple one. At the very bottom of the carburetor there is an automatic shut off solenoid. The solenoid is designed to plug the carburetor to stop the fuel flow when you shut the ignition off there's been dirt or debris or old gas get down into that little plunger and it's stuck open and that will cause your fuel to constantly run and it has to go somewhere so it's going to end up in your crankcase and fill your oil full of gas. If you Google fuel shut off solenoid you should see a picture of what I'm talking about. But if you need more assistance let me know I'll be happy to walk you through how to get that fixed
Was wondering if you might be able to help. My mower just started to act up. It will start up then die immediately. I replaced the fuel lines and oil filter, as well as the oil filter. Was wondering if it might be the carburetor?
