During an Engine Replacement on a Lexus, I made a tutorial on changing out the crank seal. / deamonmachine (watch LIVE m-f 9:30 - 5:00pm eastern) / deamonmachine (twitter) / deamonmachine (facebookers) / discord (Community Hangout)
BEST WAY: drill 2 screws in the old seal, across fom 1 another while the old seal is attached to the car. The 2 screws are now stuck in the old seal. You can pull on the screws with a pair of small grips.
that works if you have enough seal and a small enough screw, also the screw has to bite it enough w/o ripping out, I've screwed into a seal a dozen times and it still be stuck. Just depends on what you need.
It is trivial to wrap some electrical tape over potential contact surfaces. If you are worried you can't clean off the tape sticky material, you can put something you are comfortable with and then apply the tape over that.
If the seal is one that is known to leak, a thin layer of RTV will make sure it doesn't leak, but it will make it a nightmare for the next guy to get out and clean up. and Yes I pre-lube seals that are going over a rotating object like a crankshaft.
Great video I'm learning I have a 2005 Chevy avalanche 5.3 could I also pull the main seal out from the front like you did or do I have to take the whole cover
I have a 99 gmc suburban that i have changed the main seal twice now. It wont stop leaking My mechanic said when he took the timeing chain cover off the rivits in the hole were worn bald at the bottom. He said that could only mean the crank shaft is bent. Does that sound correct ??? Im about to put a new crank in it please give feed back if possible.
Take the transmission plate off, and you'll see the flywheel. When you turn the crankshaft, the flywheel turns with it. Now...put a screwdriver in the flywheel(screwdriver held in place by someone, or braced in somewhere on the car), then using a long extension and a metal pipe/pole unscrew the crankshaft bolt. Don't worry, the flywheel won't break, it's too thick. Or...you can buy the honda crankshaft tool off of Amazon or eBay.
Oh goodness no, I had the engine out for a different reason (I think replacing it? Idk, been a long time). It was more about the tool that just jerks out the seal instead of having to carefully take it out.
Please don't make videos. The seal does not seal to the crank snout. It seals to the crank damper/pulley machined surface. They do make tools to remove the seal safer, but as a longtime mech many times I just do it like you did with a plain screwdriver. It is always good to not tear things up, but a slight scratch to the snout is unlikely to be a problem. But I am still respecting to any metal surface.
I will continue to make videos, I know some will miss the mark a little, but if it helps people in any way, then I have succeeded in my goal of giving people more information about what to expect when repairing cars.
@Don Quixote Don't listen to this guy, he doesn't even know what the seal is sealing to. It seals to the aluminum housing the seal is pressed into and then to the crank damper/pulley that you slid off not the snout. Any slight damage to the snout shown would have near zero likelyhood of causing any problem let alone a leak. You need to do some close investigation to see exactly where you are having the leakage. It may be from something else but look like the seal. Many places for an engine to leak oil. You may need to clean and dry all of the nearby parts up. Then when you run the engine the wet oil will be a lot easier to see. If you actually have oil coming out from the center front of the damper/pulley you may need to use some sealant to fix the scratch leakage you made causing a leak between it and the damper/pulley. But still real unlikely. Just like any specialty someone will never be very good at it if they do not understand how what they are working on operates. Do some research to learn otherwise you will be like this guy. He appears to be what we call a parts replacer and by the workmanship looks like a hack. Come back if you still have trouble.
