The completion of the Quickview of the Atlas 1/10, including full teardown and general commentary/ranting. Some things are better. Some are worse. Some are inexplicable. Links: FMS Atlas 1/10 RTR alnk.to/eDP1vYb IG: crawlercanyon
Phenomenal, fast-paced teardown, with entertaining and informative explanations. Got a buddy with one of these and I have made him aware of this video series. Dunno why I wasn't already subscribed a long time ago cuz you really know your sh*t IMHO. Looking forward to part 3. Cheers.
Well, it’s my first look at one. It would be a good truck for the kiddos/grandkids. I have not been watching you very long. I’m kinda new guy at the table. I’ve been running the Amazon 35KG pro. Blue box servo. And at 8 V it’s a cheap force to be reckoned with. Fast and freakishly strong for a $38 servo. ! I do understand that you’re also trying to keep it under a certain price point. I find myself enjoying your videos. Thanks.
I tested the 35kg PRO some time back on the test rig, and that guy is a bit of an amp hungry monster-- IIRC, it was peaking close to 8A. It's currently running off of a 10A CC-BEC, but I don't think I would leave that guy alone with a typical 3A internal BEC. The normal 35kg makes enough torque to be usable, and it just doesn't have the super-speed of the coreless PRO version.
Thanks for the tear down. Those are some teeny tiny bearings. They are similar to what Redcat puts in their portal boxes. I've heard a lot of complaining about them being undersized, but they haven't been troublesome in my Gen8. Hopefully the bearings in the FMS hold up as well.
When I built my Chevelle, I really didn't want to put more than 6k into the motor, but I really wanted a strong and reliable 454, but building one on that budget was really difficult, especially with FI. I ended up just calling it a 350, building my 454, and "pretending" that it was only 6k. Glad to see you doing the same thing with the Fusion! (I kid, I kid)
For your questions as to the why of the servo motor battery layout, I offer a possible explanation. This chassis was originally on the Jimmy and then the Mashigan. both these vehicles have a fully scale flat floor and firewall, making the battery location the ONLY place a battery can go. Therefore, the servo and motor are left with the space they are in. BTW, I told ya those shocks had no pistons in them!!!! And yes the breakage point on the intermediate driveshaft will be the dogbone. It is made of a much too soft steel and the dogbone itself will just self-destruct very quickly. A problem with replacing the thing with another shaft like you already have is the diameter of the transmission output being so small and the pin that hold the output cup also being so small. You will need a spacer for the transmission shaft and also drill out the hole in the shaft to fit a normal sized driveshaft on it. Also, yes you can Dremel out the mounting screw holes and fit a 12-tooth pinion on it, that is what I did as well, but the motor output shaft will likely be too long to fit in the transmission, and you will need to grind it down to fit. I have spent a lot of time making this chassis work for me since my reason for buying a FMS Mashigan in the first place is that I made a clone of my full sized Jeep YJ Wrangler.
This was such a great video. I really enjoyed watching you take it apart while breaking it down and explaining it. It's potentially way too expensive but I'd like to see you do the same for the RGT EX86170. There were a few reviews on channels I follow and I've been curious about it ever since, but nobody else reviews like you do, with depth and insight.
Thanks for doing this video. I was just considering putting a fusion 1200 or 1800 into my Atlas myself so I found this at the perfect time. I put steel beadlocks and Hyrax predators onto mine and its been performing better than expected. My snorkel broke off but other than that its been a great truck.
The best effective way to remove chrome from plastic, is by submerging them in "Super Clean" purple degreaser for about 10 minutes or so. Trust me, it really works!
It doesn't just work, it does some kind of magic. Plopped them in a little container, forgot about it for about an hour, and when I went back there was no trace of chrome remaining. NICE
@@CrawlerCanyon I can't and won't take the credit for this method. That belongs to another RU-vidr whose channel I forgot. But I did want to share it for safety reasons, rather than using dangerous chemicals that can bring harm, this is the safest way. Looking forward to part 3 of this video.
easy off oven cleaner will de-chrome plastic and not hurt it. spay the snot outta parts in a sealable container (tupperware) check often, scrub with toothbrush rinse cold water. Do NOT let it sit open air and dry out.
I have 3 foc’s one 1200kv pro in the axial early bronco with 11t internal trans gearing is high. Same with my 4ws Capra but it’s a 1200kv SE. My rockpirate ar44base 3gear 1800kv se. My trx6 hauler has the HH sport 550/5slot 45t, paired and programmed 1080 is very impressive and the power is really strong. Anyways just sharing I get into the grit like you and could careless for a 10mph crawler. The hauler in 2nd gear is still faster than walking pace with the lowest supplied 9t. And the start up in 2nd is nicer than the 21titan which is still fair for rtr, as long you run the 9t pinion.
Yeah buddy I’m with you. I was thinking the thin bearings at the end of the axle shafts are acceptable because of the robust diameter of the shafts. 🎉Yeah scx’s are beefier but they would get smoked because the smaller diameter shafts would bend slightly ruining the bearing or weakening them. Absolutely love this channel just started you must be some kind of educator/engineer possibly..thanks for growing my English. Godbless you and your family.
If you ignore that body. OH my god, that body. MY EYES The name isn't much better. I will sit patiently and wait for the (probably never gonna happen) release of the IFS2 kit. Still waiting for an XF kit.
@@CrawlerCanyon I learned in SBG's review video that the name is a mashup of "Ute" and "Aaron" (the guy who designed it). Soooo, there's that useless factoid for ya.
For me its always amazing how chinese companies do interesting stuff and completely idiotic at the same time😂 For instance the shocks...the detail and material is nice but they obviously do not understand what a shock has to do. Axles and driveshafts are nice but use bearing sizes from outer space for no reason. Its mindboggling !
@13:04 can you help me find the sizes and or part that works as replacement? Believe its 4mm output on trans to 5mm transfer. New to the hobby and found this to be the best video on this platform. Thank you.
I ended up fabricating a sleeve. You are correct, the output shaft on the gearbox is 4mm, and driveshafts are 5mm (unless they're 6mm.). I drilled the driveshaft out to 6mm and made the sleeve 4mm ID and 6mm OD-- basically like a pinion sleeve, but slightly bigger. The questionable engineering on the Atlas led to some bespoke approaches to get it where I wanted it.
How hard to put a fusion pro 2300 that is the only one I see available here in my. Country will it be better than already installed 1080 hw Esc with stock motor. Is it worth the hassle or a direct bolt on
@@CrawlerCanyon ok so here’s the deal is $130 worth paying for an older generation 1800 fusion pro 2 year old not the new one used with a few wires chopped diy solder etc by previous owner That is all I have now in India to upgrade my atlas I’m really keen on jumping the gun like I said but is it worth the price and will it slow crawl like the newer ones Thanks
Without cobbling together some sort of shock towers, it's all but impossible to fit anything longer than a 70, as the shocks bolt directly to the chassis rails. I fabricated simple towers for mine, the rears are basically just flat ABS plates. It comes to life on a decent set of 80s.
Sometimes, the clanging gears of the Invisible RU-vid Machine will say to me, "HD processing is taking longer than usual," and it won't "finish" for 6 hours. Or 8 hours. Or overnight. Then I'll upload an hour-long video and upload, checks, and processing will combine to take 25 minutes. 🫤
If you need 80mm-120mm, I can vouch for the RCLIONS shocks, that's what I'm running on Ol' Blue. amzn.to/3Cr48Sj For the 70mm I need for this guy, I had ot go with AIMROCK, because far fewer sellers carry shocks shorter than 80mm. amzn.to/42CkxOC
@@MrCveedub I'll let you know in the next installment. I haven't yet met an Amazon shock that didn't need diff oil, but i needed 70mm and that's not easy to find.
