@@loiduongjr When you did the pullups for the first time I thought that the pullup bar looks not safe 😅 a friend of mine broke both of his kneecaps because of a pullup bar like that, be careful! 🙃
Fellow sports climber here! Man I'm so glad I discovered your channel and instantly subscribed! I really appreciate your on-point presentation, the experience and mindfulness that shines through your arguments and the refreshingly new perspectives that you share! 💪 I'm supplementing creatine for about 2 years now, mainly because I can confirm that it greatly affects my recovery. ~5g/day, gained about 2kg back when I started, (now 72kg, 182cm). I'm trying my best to schedule 3x/week of exercise: once a week indoor volume climbing plus OAP-oriented workout, once a week indoor bouldering and once a week hard sports climbing on rock. I'm turning 40 soon, no kids, enough sleep, healthy diet, office job, no alcohol/smoking - I still feel young but I need to pay much more attention to resting than just few years ago.
So glad to hear dude. I’m already feeling it compared to when I was 16 and even compared to just when I was still in school. Work, the business, gf, RU-vid, Instagram don’t ever let up and so I’ve gotta maximize whatever climbing I can do. Coming to realize climbing can’t be my main focus anymore but maybe in a couple months I’ll have a refreshed perspective especially if rage and RU-vid start growing big.
short answer for me personally: YES! i work construction 5 days a week and i need every extra power i can get because im always exhausted i can imagin people who climb alot will benefit too. i saw i spike in hard sends i went from 6b to 6c in one month i think that says it all for me.
I think the benefits from the "padding" you receive that protects your joints, muscles, and tendons is more than worth the slightly higher water weight you retain on creatine. It's usually 2-5lb though, 10lb seems abnormal
Yea I’m definitely a hyper responder. On your point, I think that climbing being a unique sport where all the weight goes through the hands the protective quality isn’t enough. For normal sports it wouldn’t be an issue but the increased volume and intensity on the fingers that I became able to create was much too much.
To this day the most painful thing that's ever happened to me is the same thing that happened to you in this video. My pull-up bar slipped off the door frame and I fell with both knees directly onto the floor, and I was convinced I had shattered both kneecaps. I started doing doorframe pull-ups with a pillow below me until I got a power cage in my office
I've been on creatine 5g dose for about 1.5 years, having climbed for about a year beforehand. I gained about 3kg, but weight has stayed the same since the initial weight gain. The only issue I have/had was pip swelling, which started when I started moonboarding. But I feel like that's just a common problem with too much crimpy board climbing.
Takes about a week to saturate. A week to desaturate. So ideally you’d stop like 3 weeks before an big comp so you have sufficient time to accustom yourself
Duuuuuuude! That fall looked brutal!!! But you went back into the creatine discussion like it didn’t happen 😂 But I use creatine on and off throughout the year. Been doing it for the past 5 years or so. I usually start it during a strength mesocycle.
Yes definitely some useful powder lol! I think I might stay on unless I outdoor climb where it becomes very finger dependent! Leaning towards continuous use!
Loved this video, I have started taking creatine recently and have been wondering if it is actually helping my climbing or just helping me get stronger. It was great hearing your takes on the weird balancing act climbers need to do when trying to get stronger
It’s a sport that you will progress for years so I really think the compounding effects are sooo good. The small hit to performance in the short term is so worth the gains you’ll make over decades!
right now ive been climbing for about a year and a half and i recently did my first v10. right now ive basically just been relying on my finger strength which is really good for some reason. i cant do many pullups and i havent really hit puberty yet so im pretty weak but im hoping taking creatine might help
It’s stylistic. If you only climb on crimp lines you will only get strong fingers. Creatine might help you in the long term but if you don’t climb on more physical boulders you won’t make physical gains.
I definitely got the recovery and some strength benefits, I put on little to no mass, I gained like 3 pounds but at the same time I also started eating more and training in the gym properly so the water weight didn’t hugely affect me
Have u ever had an injury that has slowed down your progress from training, because I recently dislocated my shoulder from a gaston causing a labral tear and am wondering if I’ll be able to get back to my level and progress well
I had an overuse a2 injury in both indexes for the last like 3 months. Slowed down finger and board style but I improved in other things (raw pulling power, coordo, slab). Climbing is diverse so an injury shouldn’t limit you completely.
hey loi, i just broke my collarbone in 3 places and im gonna need surgery with estimated recovery about 3 months. any tips on how i should bounce back to climbing once im recovered?
Oh no hope you recover fast! Collarbone is a really tough injury as a climber. Try to keep your lower body mobility on point! Besides that just rest well and return to activity when you can dude!
How quickly did you put on 10lbs? You look like you’re about the same size as me (but I’m 20lbs lighter) and I’ve found that when I put on 5lbs quickly, like over 2-3 weeks, it takes just as long to feel as strong as I did before. I’m 5’7 (170cm) and 135lbs (61.5kg), just to compare to how much water weight I’d gain in comparison because I don’t have as much muscle to absorb said water.
Just a friendly suggestion: you flare your elbows quite a lot for your pull ups, also check your tempo especially on the eccentric part. Check out some reliable good resources on pull up form. I know you’re strong, but bad form may cost you injuries long term and you get older… keep the good work on ✋🏼💪🏼🙏
Thanks for the concern! Pull up form is very physiologically dependent and so should be unique to everyone individually! This form works really well for me although I’m forced to take a slightly wider grip than I usually like. If you want some more funny examples filip does very flared muscle ups.
@@loiduongjr I appreciate your reply. It's true that form is body-dependent. This doesn't contradict the general body biomechanics and kinetics of an exercise (take, bending the spine/back in deadlift could be very harmful). I hope you never develop golf/elbow and shoulder issues with your pull ups. ✌
I had kidney failure when I was 17 from taking creatine (it reversed and is now working fine), took the normal dose as you should but I wasn’t drinking enough water. Thought I was doing everything right but no one ever told me you should drink a minimum of a gallon of water per day while on it. Long story short do your research before taking any supplements, it can happen to anyone
In the literature Creatine is very safe. Hydration is a standard part of any athletic lifestyle. Kidney dysfunction due to Creatine is an old study and only suggested a potential link and did not show a definitive causal link.
