Hi! My name is Loi Duong Jr. and I'm a climbing athlete/coach/content creator based in Montreal, Quebec. On this page I will be documenting my climbing life and putting a spotlight on the incredible climbing community here in Montreal.
I also run a small climbing brand called RAGE Climbing with the aim of supporting the future of Canadian climbing! We support athletes through creating media and also sell quality apparel that is sewn, designed and screen printed here in Quebec!
If you would enjoy the content that I have created please consider becoming a Patron (patreon.com/RAGEClimbing93)!
You can also follow me on Instagram! Athlete Page: instagram.com/loiduongjr/ RAGE: instagram.com/rageclimbing/
Hey Loi, I was the one who asked the question related to grades, the reason for this weird question is that im trying to find how long it truly takes to do each grade based on the opinions of many people, I found too many different informations so I want the real data and decided to do my research on it.
The thing is it’s so incredibly dependent on so many factors that it’s not really relevant or relatable. Some people climb V10 moonboard in a year some people will never climb a V5 moonboard. If you want my personal grades. It took pretty much a month up until V8 kilter. I did my first V9s on kilter after 2 years ish. V10s soon after.
@@loiduongjr Hey Loi, thanks for the extra information, yeah I agree that grades are dependent on too many factors to try to quantify it, just a fun side project I had between two bigger projects.
I think many of us have a new favorite Loi video. Thanks for being open and vulnerable with us, my guy. I bet we're all going through this life-journey in a similar way and it's nice to hear you using your platform to be honest about it.
I’m tryna get my first clean one arm chin up and when I hang on the bar with one arm using a chin up grip, I spin like crazy but the pull up grip I don’t. So with what u said will that first exercise with the 3 fingers also help the chin up grip?
Yes it would seem like you lack some shoulder strength and stability. If you’re not a climber use four fingers but focus on the mind muscle connection to the shoulder.
Thank you for the video. I like how you talked about the start of your climbing, because I have a similar story to tell. I climb for about 8 years now and I am not nearly as strong as you (I am 20 btw). In my childhood I was bullied in school, i was overweight and had epilepsy (not ideal for sport climbing XD). I had every reason to stop climbing and just be alone in my room, but this was never an option for me. Nowdays I am stronger than ever, not overweight anymore and my epilepsy is nearly gone. I have a cool groups of friends that also love climbing and tomorrow we will go to Italy for 10 days to sportclimb, because climbing is the best, Maybe I am delusional but i hope to climb action direct 9a somday. I hope you are allright. Kepp up with the cool videos. PS: sorry if my english is not perfect, but I am from germany XD
I really like about your sharing other than climbing as I got lost during my undergraduate during pandemic too and simply just climbing haha . People never know how much effort that you had paid to chase your dream. Fighting!!!!! I trust that you will attain what you want to attain in the future!
1. Single arm Active hang 2. single arm active hang in 3 different angles for 3-5 seconds each (total of 9-15 seconds) 3. Single Arm Scapula Pulls 4. Chin ups You can use bands to decrease the load if you can’t yet do single arm hangs or chin ups
Avec mes amis on a commencé au début de l'été pour vrai pis en 2 mois on pouvait tous faire des v6. Un mois de plus après pis mon ami a fait son premier v8. Mais nous on va au lecrux de Laval et ca m'étonnerai pas trop que le grading soit pas équivalent
