Just a note: if this was what I was learning in geometry class I would have paid infinitely more attention and retained more of the math in the past 10 years…this is sooo interesting and captivating to watch for me!
I've used trigonometry to determine the actual area of knitting patterns I've drafted - not recently, though. Use it or lose it is especially true for math, I find, so when I get back into my hobbies again (soon, I hope) I'll have to do a quick math refresher.
I cannot tell you how wonderful your videos have been, you have really helped me understand why and how things on patterns and clothing are how they are!
Words can not express how grateful I am for all your videos and tutorials Esposito, they have been so helpful to me in my home sewing and even art journey, Keep up the good work! :)
Thank you for demonstrating these things, seeing it step by step really helps me visualize and truly understand patterns and pattern changes 💖 I know.. some math, computer engineer classes. And geometry math (as far as I know) just translates what we see to numbers. If we know, or can measure some numbers, we can figure out the numbers for the ones we don't know. But the math itself does not really explain anything any clearer than you did here and in your dart manipulation video. Demos are really the way to go with geometry.
Love this video and explanation, especially with how to add extra width into the gathering! Also, member of the Closet-Historian-Watched-Every-Video-Club!
It’s fun to think about someone coming across your realtor from the future dress in a thrift store and being like wtf this is awesome. Or maybe it’ll be in a museum…
What I have learned from this series: the simpler the silhouette, the more options for fun with style lines,gathers, pleats, and interesting darts can be reasonably easily added. Love this series!
15:23 math person here! I think it made perfect sense with the video! The mathsier way of saying it would be: the wedges you take out are all (roughly) similar triangles with the same angle at the apex, so the amount of gathering grows proportionally to the length of the triangle side (how far your stitch line is from the apex). So if your gathering edge is twice as far away from the apex, you'll have twice as much fabric to gather! (I guess the only thing that isn't obvious is that it is truly proportional. it's not like making your wedge a bit longer will give you exponentially more fabric to bunch up)
I really like your new hairstyle, and as a professional seamstress, I do like your work as well! It's creative, beautiful, and well made; RU-vid needs more sewing videos like yours!
I'll attempt a math explanation! (building off of another comment below) When you move dart fullness around the apex, you're not supposed to add or remove any fabric/material. Translating this to non-fabric geometry, this means that you are keeping the area of your shape (the bodice block) constant. However, bodices aren't shaped like perfect circles (well, outside of something avant-garde) so the apex will be closer to some edges of the bodice block than others. Like in the video's example, the apex is closer to the center-front seam than it is to the shoulder seam. So a shoulder dart will be much longer than a center chest dart. If you close the shoulder dart to transfer the fullness to the chest, this means that the area of the longer dart MUST equal the area of the shorter dart in order to keep the total area constant. Otherwise, you're adding or removing fabric when you shouldn't. In order for the two darts to be equal in area, the shorter one needs to be wider. And a wider dart (wedge/triangle) also means a larger angle. But the beautiful thing about pattern-drafting is that you didn't need all this math speak to understand why transferring dart fullness works. I hope this was an okay translation of pattern drafting to conventional classroom math!
Yes! Thank you so much for doing these kinds of technical skills videos! I'm sure they are a lot of work (and probably kind of boring, since you don't get a dress at the end) but they are so helpful! I saw you drafting some things that, if I did them, I would have never tried because I would have thought it couldn't possibly work. It's so helpful to see how they look since I would not have done the work to find out. 😄 Thanks!
This video is a godsend. There's nothing I love more about vintage fashion than those gorgeous gathered styles from the 40s. Now that I know how they're made, the next time I spend a whole afternoon looking at dress patterns from that period (yes it happens often), I'm gonna feel _empowered_ instead of _envious_ . Thank you so much !
This is the perfect video to follow or precede the video on making the 1940's eyelet button back blouse!! It finally all makes sense! Been puzzling for weeks over how to adapt my sloper to several 40's dress patterns. Mystery finally solved. Thanks Bianca!
“Walk your seams” I’ve heard you say it numerous times! Never thought it would apply to a bag pattern. And it wasn’t my pattern that had the problem, it was someone else’s pattern! Couldn’t figure out what I’ve done wrong over and over and over. Until I walked, their seams. 😤🤪 At least I know where to fix it, and the fabric isn’t wasted. But the time! I will never trust someone else’s pattern again, without walking the seams!
I really appreciate you showing us how to achieve specific patterns, finding vintage 40s patterns in my size is really hard and it's so cool to know how to achieve the look and have it actually fit ❤
For the third one with the gathering going to the centerfront seam and the deeper neckline, extra tiny "contouring" darts could be added going from bust to neck (often doen to avoid gaping with lower necklines) and from bust to centerfront, it is more fitted that way AND you have more gathering.
These types of videos are so helpful, I have a 13 inch difference between my bust and waist so always a dart to sew but I've got tired of them so at least I have new ideas of what to turn them into.
Ok, math explanation as I understand it: as the “legs” of an acute angle get longer, the distance between the open ends of the legs increases but the size of the angle (measured in degrees) remains constant. So, the shorter legs of the center front gathered bodice design had less distance between the legs than the shoulder gathered design because the angle legs were longer in the shoulder design so there was more distance between the ends of the legs despite both designs having the same total number of degrees in all of the darts (angles) before and after the darts being moved. And a dart is just an acute angle.
I really need to make my basic bodice pattern again (I have lost some weight) and make dress with some gathering. Looks amazing, and you make it look so easy. Thank you again for inspiration and great explaining.
Hi Bianca! You must have read my mind, because this is exactly what I needed right now….self drafting a blouse pattern from my sloper (sloper from your tutorial 🥰) Sending best wishes from Down Under 💖💚💚👗📚💐🌸🌺😎🇦🇺
So, I've *just now* realized from listening to you at 6:35, for all that I've always disliked math, I spend a lot of time mathing patterns, and I'm not mad. I *love* measuring 😂
Thank You! Thank YOU You have certainly taken the fear out of Dart Manipulation but also Creating these wonderful gathered bodices The Dart class saved my 1st bodice block and I have darts I love that Flatter my body shape and now when the blocks are ready I can tackle these vintage styles I love so much by knowing how to draft my own dress that fits me to a T thank you!
I really need to watch your pattern drafting videos. I got into sewing from the medieval/reenactment side and they don't really do darts, so I have no idea about tayloring. My engineering skills have given me a rough understanding of how to model 3D shapes and I do a lot of math when I'm sewing, but getting some actual knowledge about how to correctly draft patterns for contemporary clothes would be a good idea. Thanks for providing this information!
I'm so grateful for this! You've answered my ponderings over how to add extra fullness seeing as my darts are not very wide, any gathering I do is underwhelming to say the least! Thank you so much xo
'''I know this video is long---'' no its not long enough, I enjoy your pattern drafting videos, especially the vintage styles.....tis video was right up my alley..... thank you, I hope you enjoyed , or are enjoying London.... Living in the UK myself I have actually only been a handful of times myself, but enjoyed it. Did you get to see a show?
You've got my brain spinning with various designs I could make some day using this technique. I feel like the last one could look very cool on a pencil dress!
Also regarding the angles/geometry thing Two lines at angle, small distance between lines. the more that lines go fwoosh from angle, larger distance between them
Brilliant, thank you! Clearly explained, and I loved that you just used your own bust fullness so we could compare the relative effects on the bodice shape. Definitely appreciated the tips for people with different shaped bodies! Love your new hair, it looks great on you 👍 hope you're having a wonderful trip!
Exquisite explanations and fully detailed examples of creating gathers. 👍😻👍 Thank you for sharing the pictures of your spectacular trip on Instagram. 😻 Hopefully once you are back on this side of the pond, your allergies will settle down. 😍 Safe Travels 👍😻👍
Hi, Thank you for your explanation and demonstration of how to deal with a top like mine. My bust to waist ratio is about 2" so I've never really seen how the things you do would work on me. Now I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. Let's just hope that it isn't an oncoming train. Yours, Ann
Thank you for featuring that lovely Mme Grès dress (at about 11.00). It seems to me that there's even added fullness from the armscye, so some more horizontal slashing and spreading.
Such useful info!! I finally have a block-like pattern that I have fitted really well to myself, and I am so ready to start playing with it. I hope your London trip is a wonderful experience 🥰
The more of these videos I watch, the more sense they make to me. The trick seems to be to start out imagining the three dimensional end result, and then applying the two dimensional techniques to that visualization, instead of what I had been doing which was the opposite. I'm not sure if that even makes sense, really, or if maybe it's so obvious I'm the only one that didn't see it.
