This has been so far the best how-to do spray foam ive come across. Short, simple and to the point, no muss no fuss. A fast and fantastic technique that i have added to our playlist now. Thank you for sharing 😊
Thank you so much for posting this. I just had a 12x10 table built for my O gauge train set (Lionel Super Chief) and thru the holidays collected all the styrofoam I could get my hands on. I am in the process of finding the right layout for the train and once I get that right I then have to add the layout for the Carrera slot car track thats going to accompany it. I am looking for accessories ideas and I sure am going to keep yours in mind. Thanks again for posting this.
Hello from Bali, Indonesia. Nice video. I saw another video where a modeler used a butane torch to shape the XPF foam surface. I wonder if the techniques would combine (depending on the flamibility characteristics of spray foam).
We tried this method on an N-Trak module a few years ago. Use with caution. The foam continues to grow for months after you spray it. We added some rock castings in a cut and little skim of spackling to smooth some places it out. Both cracked in a few weeks and continued too months later. It took about 6 months before the spray foam stabilized.
OK, This looks like fun and way less messy! I have a few questions. 1. Do you build your scenery in modules and then add it to your layout, and do you use a Foamboard Base maybe 2" thick for the whole layout, and then add the scenery modules to that base? So you don't glue your stacks of Foam, just use nails? Or does the Spray Foam hold the sections of stacked foam together? How long does the spray foam take to dry, Can you shape it or do you have to use as it comes out? Suggestion: Invest in a Lavalier Microphone, instead of just using the camera sound, The audio on your videos will be much better!
Good news, I got a lavalier mic for Christmas!!! You were not the 1st to mention Regarding your questions: I built the foam insulation layers as I did the layout so I would have a base that I would have some variable levels to start. For example, my town area is elevated 2” above everything else. Then the mountain sections in the far corners were layered in. I used a caulk gun in most areas between layers with either latex caulk or other adhesive. Nails work fine to hold in place until you add the foam. The key is tapping the foam down as it drys to limit the air pockets. That is why I prefer the loctite brand that comes out less aggressive. After drying, carve to the shapes you like. You will see on my original video how I created street using the foam sheets and multitool. I will be doing a focused video on that…..with my new mic😊
@@paulsteinweg I'm using 2" XPS as a base and raising my double main line 4" on 2 additional layers of 2" XPS. This 4 inch rise will run for about 6-8 feet along a river below. What I want to achieve is more of a slow-rolling landscape, I hate flat! Can u shape and smooth out this spray foam or does it dry fast and stick to what ever you might use to shape it? I want to stay away from plaster and plaster-sheets if possible.
Great video, like the show and tell with the patch of completed in middle of form, really helps @@LeonKolendalet it cure first then shape it, it cuts ,sands and surform /rasp
I have been watching so many videos on creating scenery and without a question, your technique is the best!! Your end results looking amazingly realistic. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for your comments. I also like using the sheets of insulation to build up segments first. Helps to create more 3d look. Check out my 1st video on how I did strews by carving into the foam sheet like actual road construction. Then, used driveway crack filler to make pavement. It is a fun hobby. I will do a separate segment on that.
I really wish you people who post these "How-to" videos would respond to the people who take the time to watch, vote, and respond to your videos. We ask questions to seek advice, and you completely ignore the very people who help you out. I don't understand it.
