I wanted to tell you I watched the video on polishing out your internal parts. And the way you said “ this parts are for a gun “ and the emphasis you expressed when you said that really hit home for me. Almost like something my dad would say to me. Like those parts are really important to make your firearm work properly. And I should have known that when I put together this build I’m doing right now. I don’t know why I wasn’t thinking like this. Meanwhile I’m getting light primer strikes failure to ejects all the while thinking man I got a bad this or my frame is junk. Instead of getting down on this build and making is like glass. Anyway thanks for doing that video it really got my mind where it needed to be with this build I’m doing.
@@gledhillcustoms4659 I totally understand, bro you taught me everything I know about stippling and frame work. Since you been gone alot of people thinking they got the game sewed up. I'm so so glad to see you back. You are the OG of this and I thank you for your time and effort towards perfecting it!
Love the videos. Can you please do a video on how to do the backstrap meld for the gen 4's and 5's. I see you have done it already on the one in this video. But can you do a video showing how it's done? Also how do you do the border into the backstrap because it's so thin etc. That is the only thing I have never been able to find a video of. Please!!!!!!! Thank you.
Awesome work! Can you put the pedal cut on just one side (ie the left side for right handed shooters) and leave the other side stock, or will that cause some sort of weird flex in the frame with non-matching sides?
Thanks man. Slow and steady. Thinest spots will be the corners of the magwell and the pocket for the mag release spring. I keep my index finger inside the magwell while sanding. The polymer will warm up a bit, but gets hotter the closer you get to your finger. Just don’t let your finger get hot
Hey brotha, if the bit jumps and knicks the frame and puts little marks or tiny pinholes, do you have any recommendations on patching it up, frames not cerakoted, just factory plastic
Hello brad. Thank you for the channel I just found it and love it. I’m watching all your older videos and enjoying them and seeing what I can learn. I had a few questions if you don’t mind me asking. I have a previous build that I got lucky with it went together very smoothly. Right now I have a g43 build that I’m having some problems with and it’s my first 43. When the slide goes on there is some binding and it sounds scratchy and rough. When I took it off the recoil spring has scratches on both sides, it looks like it’s from scratching on the front rail. Also I have some pretty bad scratches on the very back most part of the front rail I’m not sure where that’s from or how to fix it. And the cam on the trigger bar seems to be binding and has a scratch on the side of it from I think rubbing on the slide. I would very much appreciate any polishing tips you can give or areas to really focus on to fix these issues. Im going to check out more of your previous videos and see if I can find anything that can help but I figured it wouldn’t hurt to ask for some help. Thank you very much for your videos and your time
The world is gonna melt, you used WD-40😂. Nice work! I may send you some stuff at some point. Nice that your books are closed! Keep up the work and enjoyed watching the process.
I will just cut the rounded edge to flat. Maybe 7 mm from the slide removal pin. When it is flat it will have the most grip possible to your thumb for upward force. No point to make any agle with slobe with drills. Cut is sharp. Sharp edges give maximum grid and overall feel. What is harder item to hold: Soap with corners or soap without corners?
Whatever works for you. It has nothing to do with “sharp” edges. The way I cut mine contours to your thumb. Not only making it effective, but also comfortable. If you like sharp edges more power to you.
Hi sir, ive been a student to your publications for some time now and picked up this craft some day watching your videos back n forth at 4:30am just sucking up every nuance of enlightment😌 then i watched tactical toolbox videos and.....yeah... put that and stippling together...well😂 i live in a very restricted say no to fun country and havin a firearm is just way too much of a hassle.... cant have this,not aloud to do that. cant even have a single undercut without getting into trouble....🤢 like they can walk up in your house on a sunday morning at 7am to "check" if everything is "in order"...i think you understand😂 so having these pieces of art(at least to me they are)in hands and building and stippling them is just a great way to execute and enjoy what i love as a glock fanboy... if you like.... here is a vid of a grip i did some time ago that shows everything i have learned from your channel. one of my three uploads so far. ru-vid.comzPsJTWn1cR8?feature=share with best regards 🤝🏾
@@gledhillcustoms4659 I do this all the time..thx to you..13 February at instagram you posted two kinds of borders (2 guns) the right one is what I’m trying to learn..thx for your time
@@gledhillcustoms4659 awesome. What would you estimate the depth of the cut? About 10mm? I think that would indeed be enough to make a noticeable difference, especially with a proper grip.
@@kogasoldier9379 that’s probably fairly close, not as much on the slim line frames. The increased surface area where it’s rounded and stippled fit the thumb nicely. It’s surprisingly a noticeable difference
@@gledhillcustoms4659 looks great! Keep up the good work! I recently got into stippling my guns and came across your video and it inspires me to give this an attempt.
