Crockett & Jones Hand Grade (C&J HG) uses the same grading of leather as Edward Green (EG). The difference is C&J HG will make 4 pairs of shoes out of one hide and EG makes only 2 pairs of shoes instead. Therefore EG they are charging their customers more as the production cost is much higher.
I own both handgrade (Selborne) and benchgrade (single monk and another one for Barney's which is also benchgrade). I definitely prefer the handgrade both in terms of fit (much tighter but also more comfortable) and in terms of quality of leather and the sole. If it is worth that extra $200? I am not sure... HG will last longer between resoles and I suspect the uppers will also last a bit longer, but probably not enough to justify the price difference. So, it all come down to how much utility you derive from owning a better looking/feeling pair of shoes.
I’ll get around to uploading that Export grade review eventually! The Tower Last is something a bit different; neither rounded nor chiseled, triangular without being ‘pointy’.
marksshoereviews Originally I wanted some Barker Falsgraves but on review speaking to a ton of my colleagues they would literally pick any shoe over them Magnanni I like the look of but it would seem more difficult to get a hold of than they used to be which is off putting for £350, this put me onto Loake in the Hanover which seems a good deal for the same price but I’ve also fallen for the Crocket and jones Belsgrave with the quarter brogue detailing on the cap toe. My feelings are ill only live once and I’m younger so perhaps I buy the Crocket and Jones on the basis of its higher quality I guess at least on speaking to a shoe repair guy in Timsons...
C&J recommend sizing half a size down in the 337 last unless you have a wide foot. It is quite an elongated last shape with reasonably generous instep. If you have detailed questions I would recommend contacting C&Js customer service department directly. They are very helpful.
The Audleys are a UK 11.5 and the Aldwychs a UK 12. I could probably go down a size or half a size in the Aldwych but given it’s an Oxford the fit isn’t too loose. The Audley is a fair bit narrower but longer. The size 11.5 Audley is actually marginally longer than the size 12 Aldwych. Although the Audley looks narrower it’s surprisingly generous around the instep.
@@marksshoereviews6028 Wow, thanks for a brief answer! So, would you say Audley is more generous around the instep then the Aldwych? I have the Aldwych too, and usually it is considered to be quite a generous last, in general and around the instep. Really beautiful shoes by the way, the leather looks very expensive and classy!
avantman_ The Audley isn’t more generous around the instep but it is a roomier shoe than it looks. The C&J website used to recommend that you go down half a size in the 337 last due to the extra length. I don’t think the difference in length is noticeable though. Thanks for commenting!
Don’t get me wrong, C&J handgrades are fantastic shoes. Whether they represent ‘good value’ really depends on your personal circumstances and perception. If you are more comfortable at the Loake or Cheaney price level, I think the extra cost can be a little hard to justify. If you’re comparing them to higher end RTW such as G&G and EG, they represent fantastic value.
I have all three, loake 188, cheaney, and C&J bench and handgrade, I’d say performance as mentioned in the video is quite tricky, the loakes I’d looked after well can last decades, what you do get though with the handgrades is the little touches on the sole such as the fudge wheel markings on the welt and the oak bark leather sole, cheaney benchgrade vs Crockett benchgrade is close and I don’t believe the C&J is that much better.
Not sure you are comparing apples with apples here. Loakes are entry level. Cheaney are a step up, even their entry level. Crockett and Jones entry level is better than Cheaney entry level! Both Cheaney and Crockett and Jones climb to excellent shoes at the top of their ranges - completely blowing Loake away.
