Are you going to put teeth on the track plates like a real dozer this thing has been awesome to watch you're a very smart man I love hearing your stories from your past we always learn from our mistakes as we get older some of us are still kids at heart be safe my friend
This is awesome, I have about 5 years left before I retire from Trucking and I'm currently stocking my garage with torches, welding equipment and still have all my hand tools from my years as a Dealership Tech, this is the sort of tinkering I plan on doing!! You are a great inspiration to get out in the garage more, I'm glad I found your channel!!! 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Enjoyed hearing your college story. I had a similar experience. I started EE and came to the same conclusion after my circuit analysis class. After that my focus was thermo and fluid dynamics, and psychometrics. My professor insisted anyone could read a chart, so he had us derive the psychometric charts mathematically. Oh, what fun.
Hi Frank, Enjoying your build. I resolved a down pressure requirement using a couple snowplow angle cylinders, bushed the 1/4” port to 1/8” and used a grease zerk. Takes about 3 tubes, but holds great. Easy to add tension, and back out the zerk to release. Great content! Keep it coming!
your cub dozer is very interesting i did something similar but i am john deere retired an handicaped by a stroke i built amini linderman crawler with a snow blade the steering forces is quite greatyouhave a very nice well equiped shop dale jnssen retired in arizona i will subscribe for more videos thankyou dale
I noticed you put the fuel filter on backwards. The arrow is pointing to the tank. I can definitely say I can watch you work all day. Nothing like this on RU-vid and I like that you share this with us
I did a mechanical engineer gig right out of high school in 73. In 93 I decided I wanted to be an electrical engineer. Did the electrical thing till I retired in 2017. I also totally enjoyed the work I did. I still do work for people who need help and churches and whoever needs electrons flowing in their life... And sometimes even get some consulting work...
Another great video! Frank you never fail to deliver high quality episodes of unique and interesting content. Your attention to detail, and commitment is inspiring. Thank you for sharing.
I too enjoyed hearing about your background. Thank you! I have felt all along that the tensioners should have been mounted higher to give you a better mechanical advantage. Always looking forward to your next video.
It will be a while before I get to it, though. Shifting attention to fenders, lights, a blade, etc. Will come back to that at a later date. The existing tension system seems pretty robust, despite is diminutive stature.
You are moving forward every week and soon you will be driving it out the door. Great story about your degrees and work history. As a kid I got fried a few times "playing" with electricity, so I have a very healthy respect for it. Had a friend years ago tell me that Mechanical Engineers build weapon systems, Electrical Engineers build guidance systems and Civil Engineers build targets.
Hi Frank, l agree with the new tensioner & location l thought the other one looked to small for the machine. Loved the grader can't wait to see this one push.Have a great day from a Canadian farmer.
Frank, thanks for the background. That was cool. Always loved Nuke stuff. Sounds like a interesting career. Project is coming along nicely. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the story Frank, it's interesting hearing about your engineering background. I like the new tensioner design. You're really piquing my interest in these older Cub Cadets, they don't build them like that anymore. Look forward to the nest episode.
That style fuel filter is best used on a motor with a fuel pump, they can trap air and cause stalling at higher flows. Taking the fuel line off at the carb and priming the filter to remove all air can help if you get stalling.
You could bring your tensioner pulley down closer to the frame with your new tensioner setup and you would be able to take some pads and length out of your track it would wrap the back sprocket and idler pulley on the back and give more room to get on and safety
@@everettmarshall3392 yeah i thought about suggesting that too but he is doing a great job for just pretty much and idea and putting things together and making 90%of the parts out of scratch from ideas but with bring the track tensioners down and taking out some of the track pads he could build a operator station on the back and actual track guards to climb on and off with nice safe area's for his legs
Track Tension, I believe your tension system will be ok the way it is because of the drive wheel location. in heavy equipment with triangular track set up's usually the drive wheel is the top most wheel in the triangle, in your case its one of the lower two wheels on the drive system. With the tension wheel "idler wheel" being on top.
As it turns out, I postponed changing the tension system so I could concentrate on getting the tractor running. That's the top priority now. New tensioner can come later.
Frank it’s just a suggestion sir but I would have run the gas line above the engine heat Shield. You could also bolt a lined loom clamp to hold the fuel filter
A great episode, although I kinda missed watching the dogs getting their treats 🤪 The new tensioners and their positioning seems to be right for the task. Looking forward to the next episode, and a big 👍
I’m not sure what your plan is to control the blade but I would use a 12v hydraulic pump to control hydraulic cylinders. I would also use a deep cycle marine battery to power it as the alternator output on that motor isn’t the best. You should have plenty of space under the seat for the battery
One potential problem I see is your boogie wheels will drop into the space between the track pads which will really load up the track tension before they roll back up on the flat part. I think in one of your previous episodes you were going to weld a plate to lap the pads. One edge of the pad would have to be bent to mirror the next pad and so on. This then would narrow the gap considerably and allow for smoother rolling.
The bogie wheels can't "drop." they are on fixed axles. They will just straddle the gap until the next pad comes along. Enough wheels will be in contact at any given time to support the machine.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048yes I get that, my assessment was wrong. The tracks will be pushed up into the rollers when driven on uneven ground. The hinge point on the chain will allow this to happen. Regardless, it's a pretty cool looking build and will be fun to drive around! Something like a front strut assembly off of a small car for your track tension might work with some modification.
As a former machinist, please slide the parallels in from the side. Don't just drop them into the vise, especially after using the brush to clean the vise on the mill. That can leave small amounts of swarf next to the vise jaws, but sliding them in flat will prevent any swarf being under the parallels
That's a good habit to get into. Certainly, when accuracy is really important, you can't tolerate any debris under the parallels. I'm more careful in those cases.
When cutting fuel line hose you will find it easy if you bend it tight over and cut where the hose is spread it goes through very easily then bend it over with the cut portion in and the rest almost pops apart. Sorry if my description sucks but it works.
Axles are pretty robust. There is no weight on the axles, all the weight is on the bogies, so the only thing on the axles is the track tension. And there will be slack in the track. So not as big a worry as you might think.
You are on the right track with the tensioner. I keep watching the plasma cutter and thinking of how I would have done that by hand. That's a lot of torch work! You might have been able to cut bar stock to size and found someone with a large ironworker machine to punch the square holes and notches. Sounds like a real pain in the arse. Plasma is the saving play here! Oh the suspense is killing me! I know it's going to work fine it's just we have to wait..,............ Cheers Terry
That's really cool that you're a nuclear engineer Frank! I don't blame you for dropping electrical engineering. That would certainly be a tough double major.
I enjoy watching the build. One thing that worries me is the possibilty of breaking the drive axles under load. You've added alot of extra weight to the tractor. Have you considered adding a brace to go between the end of the drive axles and the new frame crossmember? The cub rearends are strong but I think you're going to be pushing the limit.
All of the tractor's weight is on the bogie wheels and not on the axles. The only stress on the axles is the track tension. The axles shafts would still be subject to fatigue failure as the 1 inch axle shafts come through the roller bearings at the end of the cast iron axle housings. I have a plan to capture the outboard end of each axle in a bearing to provide support--basically as you've suggested, using a member run along the track frame with bearings similar to the tension wheel bearing. The end of each axle would terminate in a 1 inch shaft. The track frame member will also have a shield for the bogies. You won't see any of this for a few months as it will all come after the fenders, leg wells, lights, blade, hydraulics, etc.
Just a note in all of my years of my shop the only battery we use is Interstate and I use a special coating on the terminals that has been working for well over 25 years its the copper color anti seize you will never have any corrosion as long as you put it on every year I tried everything else it works, a battery for your dozer would be one for a 2210 John Deere sub compact especially going all that distant with the cable, how about electronic ignition even!!
No Raychem on the connections? All the nuke engineers I know are disappointed lol. Looks awesome. Somehow I knew you were a nuke guy. Very process and procedural driven. As always. Nice work.
The new brackets for tensioning is a great idea. Have you thought about putting the brackets under the pillow blocks instead of the uneven top surface of the bearings? Sure taking shape, looking really good Frank. Man I love that plasma table. One of the items on my list for my shop. That is a great size for a home shop. If you were to purchase the plasma table again, would you go with the same size or bigger?
The only way I know to do that is to model the whole array in Fusion 360 and cut it that way. But if I do that, I can't cut a subset of plates, like one or two, at a time. Also have to deal with alignment of a much larger cut area, etc. Just gets more complicated. The way I am doing it is modeling one or a pair and then letting the cutting software nest them.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 I’m not familiar at all with the process. I was just thinking that you were essentially doubling your cutting time doing it that way. What ever works best for you. Great job with the dozer. I look forward to each episode.
Hi Frank ... Have you been a technique teacher before you made youtube videos? I really like how calmly you explain things and tell what you do, how you do it and why you do it that way. Why didn't you use a hand hydraulic press on either side to set the tension wheel? grtz from the netherlands
My I suggested that you rig a number 5 piece of welding glass, on your camera, between your plasma cutter and the camera? Some people are sensitive to the light of cutters and welders.🤷♂️
I toyed with an auto darkening lens in front of the camera but the results were really poor. Haven't given up, but with just a shade 5 lens you wouldn't see anything but the arc. I don't think anyone is sensitive to the arc light on the computer screen, I think all the UV rays are filtered out by the upload to RU-vid. LOL.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 it’s not the UV, it’s the flash. I became sensitive to in while working as a welder making railroad cars, in my younger years. Mike on Captain Kleenman’s channel uses a #5. Or I can just do what I do now and shut my eyes and skip over the welding.😵💫
My I suggest a small piece of plywood in there above the bolts cut it out so it's it's the bottom of the for the top of the plywood is above those bolts and so it won't wear on the battery
I may have missed something, what is the reason you are putting the fuel tank on the front, having it that close to the exhaust would bother me...lol, looking good !
I always enjoy your videos and you are doing an exceptional job on your build! I just watched a dozer in action and it showed the pads on the track and there's a slight bend on the pads where they actually fit under each other as they track. Is this something you might have considered in your build?
I can't do that because of the way I built my track. I did at one point look for a local fab shop to put my track pads in a press to bend them like that but abandoned that idea when I realized it wouldn't work. You need to have a pad on every link, and I have a pad on every other link. To put pads on every link on my chain, each pad would be only 2 or 3 inches wide. The answer is to get a chain with a 4 or 5 inch pitch. Mine is 2.6 inches.
Once again the highlight of my week. I also have a CrossFire Pro with the same Razor Cut 45.. Is the machine torch you have the one offered by Razor Cut? If so was it plug-n-play or did you need to change the connector pins? Thanks Frank, keep up the good work.
You still doing a great job. Frank, do you live close to Bad Chad ???? Just wondering because he just don’t look like the person you would hang around with.
Let me just make a comment that being an engineer you probably already know. But just incase, your present setup with the top idler wheel and turn buckle adjustment setup, any force at the top idler is multiplied at the tensioner buckle. And that is because the increased torque for that setup being so far to the top increases the applied torque to that point of the adjuster. So your new setup would solve that by going to the very top idler wheel pivot point. I would think a forked yoke setup where both sides of the pivot point were secured by the larger turn buckle would work perfect. If you only apply that turn buckle adjustment to one side, any torque from the other side will certainly add a lot of stress to the setup. But both side taking the adjustment will work tons better. JMHO
I have had an issue with electrical wiering so that the continuety is shown with the voltimeter but a light bulb would not go on. The reason was thet the wire had been torn so that only couble leads of it made the contact with the voltimeter but the cubidmeters wasn't sufficcient to let the amps high enough to light the bulb. So it's adviceble to use somekind of light to check continuety.
This is a good project but sorry to say I cant watch on normal speed it drives me nuts its like a pause after every word also like watching and listening to someone in slow motion if you go to settings and play these videos in double speed most of what he says and does comes out more like normal speed try it.
The tension wheel looks completely out of proportion its to high and to big why the hell do you want that track running so high right next to your seat you need to take a look at a compact track loader.
That's really cool that you're a nuclear engineer Frank! I don't blame you for dropping electrical engineering. That would certainly be a tough double major.
