Anyone who has moved a big lathe with small equipment is applauding how easy the editing made this look. Dont be fooled, this is a serious undertaking. Many hours were spent planning how to safely move these parts with a multitude of constraints. Well done man!
Yes Definitely. I've had the pleasure of replacing the motor Brushes in a 1983 Mori-Seiki SL-2B. It was a 4 Brush, 15hp, DC Shunt Motor... Moving that motor out just a few inches took some planning! That was about 9 years ago. Still using machine today and still holds .0001" tolerances, or .00254 mm
You've put in a lot of work, and it looks good! Just an FYI, your drawtube actuator is pulling against the spindle bearings. The original actuator "floats" and pulls against the spindle itself so the spindle bearings are not constantly under load. This is typically also how the drawbar works in a CNC mill. A better design might be to use the die springs between the drawtube and the spindle tube. Then you just need an actuator to "unclamp" the springs, again, like a CNC mill drawbar. That system would not work for a chuck though, since it needs to clamp over a much wider range.
I might need you to elaborate as I dont think I understand, but with a CNC mill drawbar there is a built in spring mechanism which pulls its back. In the Lathe this did not exist. maybe it exists in modern designs but definitely not in this old machine. Thanks again for watching and looking froward to your reply
@@ActionBOX Correct, you would have to make it. The original hydraulic actuator is just a hydraulic ram that pulls the drawtube on one end and pushes against the rotating spindle tube on the other end. It can pull on the drawtube as hard as it wants and there is no load transferred to the spindle bearings. With your design, any time the drawtube is pulled by the actuator, the thrust load is transferred to the spindle bearings. The spindle bearings are rated for a lot of axial load, but it's still not a good practice.
@@WatchWesWork @WatchWesWork regardless they will wreck the spindle bearings pretty fast doing it like that. But not sure they could get away with a different solution unless that large circular plate with holes spin with the spindletube. cuz then a hollow thru hydraulic ram that spins with the machine should work, and have to be disconnected if running it manually or have a slipring that can transfer pressure fitted to it.
@@ActionBOX It's inspiring. I've been looking at old machines for years, dreaming of doing exactly what you've done. It's a shame how many of these old machines get scrapped. To breath new life into them in such a way that you understand exactly how they work, and exactly how to repair them, is as good as CNC gets. I'd rather have a machine that I restored, and modified myself as opposed to anything brand new. Really well done, you guys should be proud :)
@@dieselphiend I really appreciate this comment. It's crazy that we could get these massive machines for almost free, and with a bit of time and learning we can have them back up and running again. Whats holding you back from doing the same thing?
@@ActionBOX Space, I need more space. I've got a 48" CNC router that I still need to figure out where to put. I've considered mounting it to the ceiling, lol.
I loved this video. I am a second year electromechanical engineering student and I like how you break down your thought process and your clever solutions for each problem.
I think the problem of this channel are the videos. You cannot actually see the detail of the process, everything happens too fast. It is more about the achievement than the process. I think a project like this, as well as all the others deserved to be divided in 3 different videos, at least.
That’s funny. I was thinking, what is this, a machinist video for children? I can’t imagine I’ll ever watch another video here, never mind subscribe. But that’s the great thing about this platform, something for everyone.
Damn...you guys rock, always a smile on my face when i get a notification of new videos from you guys, why you are still full-time employed is hard to understand, as you have made equipment that would easily be sellable into the maker community, hope you make that transition
I really appreciate this comment. Thank you for your support and kind words. If you love our videos then you will enjoy the next few weeks as we will be releasing a video every week. Making the transition you describe is difficult with such huge machines, but we have a Desktop Metal Injection Molding Machine video coming out perhaps next week (pictures already on our website), so that might help. Thanks again Dave
Hahaha, thanks for the support. I hope you are able to learn something new about how CNC lathes are built and work. We have a bunch of other cool videos coming out like a desktop metal injection molding machine.
Another excellent project! On the collet closer, the draw tube should close under spring pressure (springs rotate with the spindle) and only be opened with your linear actuator. That way the thrust bearings and actuator only have to function during collet release much reducing wear (and heat). Also means you are not putting axial pressure on the spindle bearings during normal operation. Same principle as an automotive clutch.
Wow, Philip as I was reading your comment I was realizing how much better your solution is than mine. Where were you when I was building this machine haha. Can you share a link to an example of one of these mechanisms so I can get a better visual? Hope you enjoyed the video. Cheers, Dave
@@HuskyMachining Seems like a popular opinion, This is one of my favorite aspects of posting a video on RU-vid, I get feedback that I have not considered. Thank you very much.
Thank you so much, I really appreciate that. We have a Desktop Metal Injection Molding Machine that we made which you would love if you enjoyed this. stay tuned, video coming out in 1-2 weeks.
I thought I was going to watch something cool, but instead I learned a new use for a tool I already have, never considered using the centro in the lathe, thanks for the great idea guys
@@ActionBOX Sure! I've attached some shortened image links at the bottom of the machine and one of the parts it made. Keep in mind I'm a college student on a pretty tight budget so it's not the most glamorous machine, especially compared to the stuff you've made. Total cost was around $150. The bed and headstock are 3d printed shells with a concrete rebar+wire mixture poured in them. Motor needs replacement as it's only 250W and struggles a bit with torque. Entire spindle and chuck mounting arrangement was made by me on a university lathe. Electronics are functional if not nice looking. I made the carriage and all the aluminum components on my equally jank budget CNC router. I can send images of that as well if you want, but that's it's own thing. Overall I'm pretty happy with how it turned out since it's definitely one of the more ambitious projects I've done. Still on my to-do list is a tailstock, a better toolpost mount, since the current one is really weird, and a few other quality improvements. Lathe: tinyurl.com/3954mwnd Test Part: tinyurl.com/2ssh9msf
@@ActionBOX Sure! Do you have a good way for me to send images? I made a comment earlier going over the general construction that I think got deleted due to having image links in it.
Love it. If you enjoyed this video then you would absolutely appreciate the videos we will be releasing over the next couple of weeks. We have a DIY Metal Injection Molding Machine coming next week.
You’re right, measuring concentricity on the outside was unwise. We will make sure to focus on the mating surface moving forward. Other than that did you find any other issues that we can focus on? Thank you for the good tip.
Cool vid. I hope you bought the seller a beer for being pretty cool about all the work you did on his site (cleaning, dissasembly etc). Most would not allow that.
@@ActionBOX I rented one of their F250s and trailered the machine with a rented hydraulic drop deck trailer that was rated for 10000lbs. Those trailers are a lifesaver and you can mount a come along in the truck bed to winch stuff on. I've used them for a pair of small CNC mills in the past. Having a Harbor Freight gantry crane is also useful for some taller things in the truck bed, but can be hard to justify if you don't have somewhere to store it.
@@ActionBOX Beautiful. I'm interested in doing similar projects in the future. You guys are showing me how to do it. From EDM to lathe to injecto and now this. Bigger and bigger it seems. I had always wished my brothers and I would invent things together like you and your brother. I suppose I will have to live that experience vicariously through you two. Question, how much runout would have been unacceptable per the diameter of the lathe? Did you have a formula or a percentage value or...?
@@JayDee-b5u Thats mazing, I'm glad we could inspire others. We actually also just finished inventing a Metal Injection Molding Machine which we will release the video to in about a week or two. the product is already on actionbox.ca and its called INJEKTO M In terms of unacceptable runout, I do not have a value for you unfortunately, but that is a good question. Cheers, Dave
Awesome find, those old Emcos are built like a tank! I know I own two. 😊 Oh yeah, the old electronics are worth something. Sinumerik parts are well built!
@@ActionBOXWell, not something you think when you get the complete machine for pennies. How fast can you spin the spindle, seems a bit slow? The original depends on the model can turn to 4000rpm and and you want that on smaller parts.
Thank you very much. Finding the lathe is a bit of a waiting game but when something pops up it will be worth it. Let me know if we can help in any way.
I like watching your progress. You know what you're doing and you deserve the success you are having. But it looks like you might need a larger garage at some point! ;)
What an interessting Video! But please do my one favor! Get your self a nice pair of safety shoes! There are some really comfortable ones around. If one of those heavy components crushes your toes you will think about my advice. My cousin lost half of her foot just because she wanted to take a look at her house construnction side a a concret piece moved in an unfortunate way :) Maybe this is just my inner german work ethic, but also good workwear like a pair of sturdy cargo pants is really worth the investment :) Keep up the great work!
Good job my friend! 🦾🦾🦾🦾 I recently started retrofitting a CNC lathe CYCLONE DENFORD. I've even uploaded the first videos but there's a ton of work and unforeseen faults, e.g. spindle bearings or slides glued to the guides. Pozdrawiam z Polski 🛠🛠
My friend, I feel your pain. This is definitely a very demanding project. Good on you for sticking with it. Let me know if we can help in any way. How long have you been working on it so far?
@@ActionBOX It's hard to say because it's a side project. The machine arrived on August 18. Until now: I dismantled the covers (they are waiting for laser cleaning) I washed the machine and parts I ripped apart the control cabinet I shortened the table/base, painted it and added adjustable wheels I cleaned the revolver, changed the seals - waiting for the motor (I'll also add a stepper motor) I dismantled the spindle - the bearings are destroyed I glued new slides to the guides - they need to be machined and scraped For now I'm doing fine but if you have any problems please help, thank you :)
Wow every minute of this video would be 1 video from a "common" youtuber This is really impressive, great job. If I make a CNC in the future I will take a look at this Masso controller, it looks pretty good!
I've been using masso for years and haven't ever had any issues. I own 2 G3's on two machines with tool changers that never had a single problem. If I ever build another machine that's the controller I'll buy again.
@@ActionBOX that's odd. I've never had any issues with mine. And I flash every latest firmware they release. I did have a issue with my toolchanger once but I flashed back to the previous firmware and it went away. As anything, it depends on what you're using it for determines what issues you'll find. I've gotten lucky I guess. Lol.
cool video. I'm about to start machining the baseplate for a little 5c cnc lathe I'm building and I'm going with the same MASSO controller. I'm also a high vacuum nerd so I'm pumped to see your next video!
o heck yeah. Im so curious to see what you have to say about our DIY High Vacuum Furnace next week. I dont want you to hold back though, I want all your honest thoughts hahah. Glad you enjoyed the the video. Dave
Next project on the lathe is to add a c axis to the spindle and live tooling on the turret so you can mill or drill off center parts. Loved this whole process
hahaha, that would be awesome, but I think the lathe is complete for now. It does what I need it to. Im glad you were watching in great detail. looking forward to your comment in our video next week.
Incredible channel tbh. I got recommended the CNC one just a few weeks ago and I’m fully caught up now. Excited for the metal 3d printer video. Don’t know how you’ll keep it up with these impressive builds but please do.
Looks great! I did CNC servo conversions of my manual machines years ago, then upgraded, but not to true professional machines. Reminds me of when I went from Cincinatti to Detroit to get a Tormach Mill and get it home to my garage all solo... Then it didn't fit in the garage so had to partially disassemble it in the dark to get it to fit so I could return the trailer. Couldn't get it off the trailer, so dragged it off with my lawn tractor lol. How many RPM you getting out of the spindle? looks really low. Your controller and pendant are laughably cheap compared to even just a few years ago. Nice to see this all get more affordable!
I feel your pain, but I'm glad to know Im not alone in this hahah. My spindle RPM is indeed low with a maximum of 3000RPM, but it's perfect for my home shop needs. Thank you for your support.
Thank you, im glad you enjoyed. Yes that video will come out in about 3-4 weeks. over the next week or two we will launch a video of our Desktop Metal Injection Molding Machine. I am super excited for it as it's likely the coolest machine we have ever built. Stay tuned to see that. Cheers, Dave
Man good video but the safety glasses and flip flops are killing me...either be about safety or just leave it out. Engineers wonder why they catch so much flak in the field 😂
Awesome project! Honestly an amazing deal for 1500 as long as you got the space, knowledge and skills! My only concern is 24:28, doesn't the constant stress of the motor weighing down on the plastic bracket cause it to creep overtime? Can't wait to see the vacuum furnace build!!
Good point. The answer is perhaps. I dont use this as an industrial lathe (24/7) I use it as needed everyone and then so I anticipate the piece will last longer than me. Regardless, the beauty in this project is that I can just reprint a new on in 4 hours and replace the part. We have some really cool videos coming out once a week for the next little while, so stay tuned. Looking forward to your comments in our new videos. Dave
@@ActionBOX Well, I did my retrofit with Linuxcnc and wrote and entire toolchanger program in C, and I would recommend setting up a 4 bit switch and ditching the encoder and stepper on the tool changer. or use a 8 bit optical encoder disc. each bit with it's own signal. But yeah the maso stuff is interesting. I stuck with teh stock DC servos and I upgraded the drives to siemens and glentek.
That's huge! I'm working currently on a CNC lathe too, but that's tons of work. Btw what is that in front of the main spindle? Is that a tailstock of any kind or a second spindle?
I am well aware, I check in with your channel every now and then. Great stuff you do and I would love to collaborate with you on our Desktop Metal Injection Molding Machine (video coming out in 1 - 2 weeks). To answer your question that was a massive tailstock, not a spindle. Cheers, Dave
@@ActionBOX So great to hear that you check in some time! :) If you'd like to contact with me just let me know. Metal injection molding machines are really interesting stuff too - I'd love to build one in the future but that needs tons of knowledge for sure too. Btw what kind of tailstock is that? Hydraulic? Pneumatic? Electric motor? Are you going to use it? I'm going to make a pneumatic tailstock for my lathe with electro-pneumatic pressure valve control (0-10V from panel). Keep up your work! Greetings!
@@GBWM_CNC The tailstock was Hydraulic. I converted it to Electric and then realized I just dont need it in my machine for the type of work I do, so I pulled it out.
You can use system similar too hsk/SK tool changer drawbar with bevel springs and use electric actuator to unclamp the chuck. Now in your system the bearing is the weakest part because it is carrying all of the clamping force. in my opinion the bearing is prone to failure due to overheat or overload Sorry for my English it's not my native language
You're spot on about machine prices, if it's easy to move it costs a whole lot more. I have that same hoist to move equipment, nice part is how the legs store upright. Not sure I trust their max weight rating for it though.
I completely agree about the cost of moving equipment. It really can be a huge expense. The shop crane is an awesome investment for anyone attempting such a project.
My dude! Great video....I have a Sauter turret, also VDI30, but it has live tooling capability. It's electro-hydraulic so I will be stuck with a noisy pump, I think. I would like to understand more of the coding aspect required to make it actuate....like how does the T command send a signal to the turret and what kind of signal is it? Thanks.
@@ActionBOX Does the Sauter drive in the turret look for a 24VDC pulse, or constant voltage? And does it handle the lock/unlock itself, or is it looking for that command from the PLC? Just trying to sort out how much the CNC is doing and how much the internal drive is doing. Thanks!
That is epic! Did you forget to edit in a short segment on the draw tube system actually working? Did I understand correctly that it enables the chuck to be powered?
Great video but just an FYI, you are using the wrong set of screws for attaching your square shank turning tools in the VDI holder. You want to use the set screws in the same direction as the carbide insert screw. The back of the tool needs to be against the solid steel shoulder of the holder so the cutting forces are transferred to the rigid holder and NOT the screws.
What he means is that the setscrews you use to secure the tool in the toolholder are supposed to clamp down on the top side of the tool ( so the side on which the insert is) and not on the bottom. This will however only work if you have the right size tool. If the holder is made for a 25x25mm tool and you put in a 20x20mm tool, it'll be off the centerline by 5mm unless you put a 5mm shim underneath the tool.
@@ActionBOXIt'll work, but for rigidity, you want the bottom of the tool to have as much contact with the tool holder as possible, since it needs to transfer the cutting load to the tool holder. The way you have it setup now, the cutting forces pull the tool away from the most rigid part of the tool holder, whereas if you clamp on the top of the tool, the cutting forces push the tool onto the biggest, most rigid area the tool holder has to offer.
@@ActionBOX Time stamp is 20:29, you should be using the screws on the opposite side from what you tightened with the impact. @David-xo8ci is correct that you can use shims but easier if you don't have to. Look up your VDI holder specs from the part number and it will tell you what size square shank to use with it. The reason the holder has screws on both sides is to let you use either left or right hand tools with the same holder.
hahah, very soon, first we will release the video of our Desktop Metal Injection Molding Machine (INJEKTO M) in a week or two, and after that the metal printer. Subscribe to be notified. Cheers
I have concerns with the clamping mechanism. If a bolt sheers from fatigue the work could leave the chuck. Why did you choose to remove hydraulics? The accuracy of clamping pressure is Vital for thin wall parts and repeatability.
Seems, per the comments, that it would have been wiser to have the chuck constantly activated via a spring, and then use the actuator to open the chuck instead. this would act as a failsafe. Good catch.
@@ActionBOX Yes that would be wise. Still would have the problem of controlling clamping pressure for repeatability. Maybe have the spring load tension variable with a nut. Similar to a shock absorber.
hahha, I was waiting for someone to comment on this. It wasn't meant to be glue but rather just a gasket so it doesn't matter for me as long as the screw holds the hatch closed. Good call though.
thats a nice machine . as someone that has installed and maintained industrial cnc lathes for over 15 years (in the past,not now) , I would strongly advise you to abandon your current approach to collet clamping . as others have said it will not end well. Its important to remember that the collet closers that you see on manual 5c machines are not holding the collet closed, the collets are self locking/wedging. if you watch someone operating one ,they are thumping it closed and then thumping it back open again. I appreciate that you want to eliminate the hydraulic system and the hydraulic chuck actuator they are very noisy and hot. An option to consider is Front Mount Air 20c Collet Chuck they are self contained spring closed and air opened. and of course can be automated. Brands like atlas and rohm sell air chucks ,so that you can see the principle of them , at the moment I could only find 20C from a few chinese manufacturers.
@@ActionBOX one that appears available in North America is ATLAS ATL206-5C. Part of Pratt burnard a very reputable chuck Manufacturer. There also several Chinese variations from china
Nice video, did you realy need the 16C collet? You got it in a lot, but they are expensive. I would like to see a Chiron cnc mill, the one with a unbrella tool changer on top. They are common and qiut cheap.
